Tretinoin, Retinol, and Retinyl Palmitate: The Key to Anti-Aging Success?
Photo: Tretinoin treatments, courtesy Drugs.com.
According to Dr. David E. Bank, director of the Center for Dermatology, Cosmetic & Laser Surgery, researchers discovered the anti-aging properties of Retin-A, a prescription topical treatment containing a derivative of vitamin A, in 1985, when it was first used as an acne treatment. Patients reported decrease in the appearance of wrinkles and smoother skin, in addition to a reduction in acne.
The active ingredient in Retin-A, tretinoin (brand name Renova), is the only chemical to date to receive FDA approval for anti-aging and anti-sun damage properties. According to research by Fisher et. al cited by Dr. Leslie Baumann in Cosmetic Dermatology, retinoids are effective in preventing and treating the collagen loss caused by photodamage. UV exposure decreases collagen types I and III with 24 hours, but treatment of the skin with all-trans retinoic acid prevents the loss of these types of collagen synthesis. In addition, Fisher et. al demonstrated that application of tretinoin inhibits the induction of matrix metalloproteinase genes (more here), which are in part responsiblefor collagen degradation.
Side effects of retinol include skin irritation, desquamation, and redness. In addition, use of vitamin A derivatives has been associated with birth defects, and so it is advisable for women who are pregnant, breast-feeding, or those who may become pregnant to avoid use of tretinoin, retinol, or retinyl palmitate. It is further notable that patients with sensitive skin should use lower concentrations of tretinoin (0.025% rather than 0.1%) or, alternatively, lower concentrations of different metabolites of vitamin A, namely retinol or retinyl palmitate. According to Dr. Baumann, retinol and retinyl palmitate should be present in concentrations of at least 0.04% to 0.07% and packaged properly (to avoid oxidation) in order to be effective, as they are in Neutrogena Healthy Skin with SPF 20 ($19.99, Drugstore.com) and Roc Retinol Actif-pur ($16.99, Drugstore.com).
So how are retinol and retinyl palmitate related to the proven-effective tretinoin? According to Dr. Baumann, retinol is classified as a cosmetic rather than a drug because it must first be converted to retinaldehyde, and then all-trans retinoic acid within the skin in order to be effective. In general, retinol is considered to be about 20 times less potent than retinoic acid, and thus higher concentrations of retinol need to be used to achieve similar efficacy to all-trans retinoic acid (i.e., 0.04% or 0.07% versus 0.025%). However, although retinol needs to be present in higher quantities than tretinoin in order to be effective, patients typically experience lower levels of irritation using retinol products. Similarly, retinyl palmitate is a combination of pure retinol and palmitic acid (a substance typically used in cosmetics as a cleansing agent), and so it too must be converted to retinaldehyde and then all-trans retinoic acid within the skin in order to be effective. However, when present in sufficiently high concentrations, retinyl palmitate displays results similar to that of retinol. One caveat: based on information from Dr. Baumann’s site, make-up products with retinol will expire approximately one month after opening, so use accordingly.
Tretinoin itself is available in five prescription formulas: Retin-A Micro (Johnson & Johnson), Renova (Johnson & Johnson), Avita, Differin (Galderma), and Tazorac (Allergan). According to Dr. Bank, Retin-A Micro uses microsphere technology to allow a more sustained release of tretinoin over time. Some patients may find Retin-A Micro drying, in which case Renova, a product with tretinoin delivered in a mineral-oil base, may be recommended. A third option, Avita, is considered to be less irritating than Retin-A Micro, but without the mineral-oil base that can stimulate acne in some patients. The fourth option, Differin, contains a different chemical, adapalene, and is considered to make skin less photo-sensitive than other tretinoin products. Lastly, the newest product, Tazorac, contains tazarotene, and may be drying, but was approved by the FDA in 1997 for the treatment of acne. According to Dr. Baumann, a 2000 study by Kakita et. al found that the efficacy of tazarotene 0.1% gel is clinically comparable to 0.1% tretinoin [in Retin-A Micro] and 0.025% gel tretinoin[Renova] and adapalene 0.1% gel [Differin].
Vitamin-A derivatives are thereby considered to be excellent prevention and treatment against the signs of aging caused by ultraviolet rays. However, the effects of vitamin A derivatives on sensitive skin can be harsh. As such, provided one is not breast-feeding, pregnant, or may become pregnant, s/he should talk to their dermatologist about making the right choice of tretinoin, retinol, or retinyl palmitate for a part of their anti-aging routine on a daily basis.
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Pingback by Cosmetic Surgery » Tretinoin, Retinol, and Retinyl Palmitate: The Key to Anti-Aging ... | October 3, 2007
[...] The original Advanced Night Repair is extremely hydrating, soothing, and contains fair amounts of antioxidants and even a fair amount of sunscreen as a non-quantified bonus (in the form of octyl methoxycinnamate). The original Advanced Night Repair contains very high concentrations of ingredients that make it extremely hydrating: glycoprotein/polysaccharides (found naturally in the stabilizing intracellular matrix of the skin), dimethicone, pantethine (also called panthothenic acid or vitamin B5), sodium hyaluronate (an excellent natural moisturizing factor), lecithin, and squalane. The soothing ingredients include chamomile, which is disguised on the ingredients list in its proper name, matricaria (anthemis nobilis); bisabolol (derived from chamomile), and allantoin (an anti-irritant derived from uric acid). Antioxidants include vitamin E (tocopheryl acetate) and retinyl palmitate (a derivative of vitamin A which must be converted to retinaldehyde and then all-trans retinoic acid within the skin in order to be effective. However, when present in sufficiently high concentrations, retinyl palmitate displays anti-aging and antioxidant benefits similar to that of retinol.) [...]
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[...] over time, especially when used in a moisturizer with other proven anti-aging ingredients, such as retinoids or antioxidants. A great source of argireline and other anti-aging ingredients is DERMAdoctor [...]
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[...] one antioxidant, this is an excellent product. It is a great source of over-the-counter strength retinoids, hydrating (”moisture-binding”) ingredients, and it comes in a very simple formulation [...]
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[...] 7-Day Hydrators, Barrier Repairing Ceramides, Wrinkle Relaxers, Multifruit Complex, and Retinyl Palmitate. In other words, according to Bliss, this stuff has it [...]
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[...] that copper peptide complexes stimulate even greater procollagen synthesis than potent anti-agers Retin-A (tretinoin) or ascorbic acid (vitamin C). Copper peptides specifically affect the synthesis of collagen 3, [...]
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[...] It has a lot of potent antioxidants, including vitamin C (in the form of tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate), vitamin E, green tea (in high concentration) and soybean extract. Vitamin C and vitamin E are network antioxidants that synergistically enhance the power of one another. Green tea is one of the most potent antioxidant sources, depending on the source from which it is derived, and soybean extract has been shown to serve as an antioxidant that also increases collagen production over time. Paula’s Choice Antioxidant Serum also has retinol. Although, according to dermatologist Dr. Mary Lupo, retinol is 20 times weaker than the potency of prescription retinoids, retinol is still able to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, increase cell turnover rate, increase skin smoothness, and increase skin’s collagen production over time (sources here). [...]
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[...] Retin-A Micro. (A personal favorite of mine, too!) “Retin-A is one of the great anti-aging products; this is reformulated for improved delivery and strength.” Available by prescription only, but a proven great investment for the future of your skin. [...]
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[...] Retinol has been demonstrated to increase cell turnover, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, smooth the skin, and reduce acne in some patients. However, retinol use is also associated with skin irritation in some patients with sensitive skin, and use of retinol makes your skin more susceptible to sun damage. Because the sun is a major cause of signs of aging, be sure to use this product with daily application of a broad-spectrum UVA/UVB sunscreen. [...]
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[...] chemically-derived, proven anti-aging ingredients that are found in other shaving creams, like the retinol and antioxidant vitamin E in Kiss My Face Moisture Shave ($5.39, [...]
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Hi Nicki,
I found out about your website just a few days ago from skintype solution forum and really love it. Thanks for all your reviews. How ever I am posting this question here since I couldn’t find any other way to ask you. I was using Peter Thomas Roth Unwrinkle Serum and it is amazing, with peptides, vitamins and all other useful ingredients. I loved it but the problem is its very expensive. I wish I could keep on using it but I really want explore cheaper version. Is there any other product (definitely cheaper) in the market that is even close to this serum in terms of ingredients?
I am 31+, have cmbination skin, prigmented and wrinkled skin. Actually dont have any wrinkle yet and like to keep it that way as long possible.
I cant use Retin A since I am pregnant. I would really appreciate if you could give me some suggestion. Thanks.
Nadia
Comment by Nadia | April 6, 2008
Hi, Nicki. I use Differin at night, although I am curious about the Green Cream you rave about. Would it be worth trying? Or is Differin stronger? Meaning if I’m not experiencing worthwhile results with Differin, then I won’t with Green Cream either.
FYI-I’m 32. No wrinkles. Fair skin. Acne in the form of white puss-filled bumps. I want to get rid of these bumps! And I want to delay the wrinkles!
Comment by Danielle | June 2, 2008
[...] there are lots of quality, well-researched ingredients, ranging from ceramide 2 to olive oil, from retinyl palmitate to vitamin C, which together comprise 45-74% of the composition of the cream. Each of the [...]
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[...] better, while there is substantiative research indicating that certain chemical ingredients - retinol, niacinamide, vitamins C & E, and chemical sunscreens, to name a few - have proven long-term [...]
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[...] better, while there is substantiative research indicating that certain chemical ingredients - retinol, niacinamide, vitamins C & E, and chemical sunscreens, to name a few - have proven long-term [...]
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