Niacinamide is an amazing ingredient. According to Bissett et. al., niacinamide does it all: reduces fine lines and wrinkles, hyperpigmented spots, red blotchiness, and skin sallowness (yellowing), and increases elasticity. Further, according to a 2005 study by Draelos et. al., niacinamide may help alleviate some of the symptoms of rosacea by increasing hydration and barrier function of the stratum corneum (uppermost layer of the skin), and may have some anti-tumor characteristics as well. And finally, in a 1995 study by Takozaki et. al., it was reported that a 4% topical niacinamide treatment applied twice daily may help to treat acne by reducing inflammation with similar efficacy to 1% clindamycin gel. What’s not to love?
What is niacinamide?
Niacinamide, also known as nicotinamide, is a water-soluble component of the vitamin B complex group. In vivo, nicotinamide is incorporated into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD) and nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide phosphate (NADP), coenzymes participating in a variety of enzymatic oxidation-reduction reactions essential for processes such as tissue respiration, lipid metabolism, and glycogenolysis (Wikipedia). However, topical application of niacinamide proves effective in treating the skin via reduced transepidermal water loss (TEWL), increased replicative potential and histone acetyltransferase activity, increased melanosome transfer from melanocytes to keratinocytes, and decreased inflammation (see below).
Is niacinamide extremely hydrating?
Yes! According to Paula Begoun, a published study in the International Journal of Dermatology found that 2% niacinamide was more effective than petrolatum (Vaseline, or a purified mixture of hydrocarbons from petroleum/crude oil) in reducing water loss from skin and increasing its moisture levels. This is extremely telling, as Dr. Leslie Baumann, director of Cosmetic Dermatology at the University of Miami, states in her textbook Cosmetic Dermatology that “petrolatum is one of the most occlusive moisturizing ingredients known…it is often the gold standard to which other occlusive ingredients are compared.” Due to the non-comedogenic nature of petrolatum, it has been popular in skincare formulations since 1872. Yet niacinamide is also non-comedogenic, and it does not have the greasy texture of petrolatum.
Is niacinamide an effective skin lightening agent?
Yes. According to a 2002 study by Hakozaki et. al., in comparison with a control, a topically applied 2% niacinamide+sunscreen lotion significantly decreased hyperpigmentation and increased skin lightness after 4 weeks of use. However, unlike the popular lightening agent hydroquinone, niacinamide does not decrease hyperpigmentation by inhibiting tyrosinase catalyzation of melanin production (Hakozaki et. al.). Instead, in the study, niacinamide was found to reduce hyperpigmentation in a pigmented reconstructed epidermal (PREP) model by inhibiting 35–68% of melanosome transfer from melanocytes to keratinocytes (skin cells). These results were affirmed by Bissett et. al. in 2007, using a niacinamide concentration of 4%. As such, in concentrations of at least 2%, niacinamide seems to provide a rather unique, effective method in decreasing hyperpigmentation.
Is niacinamide a superior anti-aging ingredient?
Maybe — niacinamide appears to be a promising anti-aging ingredient, but more research needs to be done. As mentioned previously, the study by Bissett et. al. demonstrated that 2% niacinamide may stimulate collagen production. A 2001 study by Hatuoka et. al. further demonstrated that aging fibroblast (collagen-producing) cells exposed to 3 mM niacinamide increased replicative potential and histone acetyltransferase activity, which suggests that altered gene expression in skin cells may be restored by niacinamide. However, as Hatuoka is quick to point out, niacinamide may enhance the replicative potential of skin’s fibroblast cells, but seems to have little effect on their growth rate and life span, unlike sirtuins, which have been found to completely turn off gene expression and may actually extend fibroblasts’ life span.
Is niacinamide a good acne treatment?
Perhaps. Studies have not been conducted comparing the efficacy of niacinamide to salicyclic acid or benzoic acid, two commonly prescribed acne treatments. However, in comparison to 1% clindamycin gel, Shalita et. al. have shown that niacinamide yields similar results. In addition, use of niacinamide may be preferrable over clindamycin and other antibacterial agents in the long term because the bacteria tends to re-emerge after a period of antibacterial agent use (Shalita et. al.).
Added November 28, 2007: Are there any potential drawbacks to niacinamide?
It is not advisable to use your niacinamide products with any products containing sirtuins, such as Avon Anew Ultimate Age Repair Elixir Serum and Night Cream. This is because, unfortunately, sirtuins are inhibited by niacinamide. Therefore, your attempts to increase levels of sirtuins in your skin with a CR diet or a cream containing sirtuins may be mostly futile if you use a moisturizer with niacinamide. On the other hand, topically niacinamide has many documented effects for the skin, so until further research is done, it seems to be a question of whether you want the effects of sirtuins or niacinamide more!
In what products is niacin or niacinamide available?
A form of niacin known as nicotinic acid (related to niacinamide) was first found in the NIA24 skin care line. Unlike niacinamide and nicotinamide, nicotinic acid stimulates the release of the hormone leptin, a natural repair hormone, that aids healing within the skin cells and aids in the reduction of hyperpigmentation (NIA).
Niacinamide is available in Olay’s Total Effects, Definity, and Regenerist (my personal favorite of the three) lines. For the body, niacinamide is available in one of my favorite hydrating lotions, Olay Quench Body Lotion for Normal to Dry Skin ($18.64 for two, Amazon.com). While Olay tends to imply that it does too much with its advertising campaigns (no cream can make you look like you just had a professional cosmetic procedure), their products with relatively high concentrations of niacinamide will help improve your skin’s moisture levels, texture, and pigmentation, and may improve your skin’s aging as well.
Altogether, niacinamide has strong scientific research backing the cosmeceutical claims, putting it in a class with antioxidants, retinoids (or kinetin if you have sensitive skin), hydroquinone and amino acid peptides. An excellent ingredient — try to fit it into your skin care régimé!
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October 30th, 2007
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Spotlight On... |
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Granted the hefty price tag of $225.00 for 1.8 oz., Shiseido Future Solution Total Revitalizing Cream (Amazon.com) promises hydration “for hours without a hint of stickiness,” improved firmness and radiance, as well as fewer wrinkles and fine lines after each application. The product boasts its magic comes from a Marine Capsule Emulsion, Chai Hu Extract, and a Hydro-Infusion Complex. But is the product worthy of the high price tag?
What is Chai Hu (Bupleurum Root) extract?
According to Secara.com, Chai Hu, a hot-water extract derived from seven species of medicinal plants, was originally created by Dr. Zhang Jing-Yue in 1624 A.D. According to the American Journal of Clinical Nutrition, Chai Hu has been In the skin, reports by Yen et. al. demonstrate that B. chinense derived from Chai Hu extract is an effective anti-inflammatory agent and antioxidant. Unfortunately, no studies have been published comparing the efficacy of Chai Hu to other established anti-inflammatory agents or antioxidants. Further, according to Paula Begoun, the Cosmetics Cop, “There is no research showing extracts of Bupleurum falcatum to have any benefit for skin, though it may have some wound-healing properties…It does contain glucoside and polysaccharide, but whether these can affect skin following topical application of the extract is unknown.” As such, based on the published research, it does not seem advisable to buy this or any product solely for its inclusion of Chai Hu extract.
What is ononis spinosa?
Ononis spinosa, found in higher concentrations than Chai Hu, is commonly known as spiny restharrow, or just restharrow. Found throughout Europe as far north as Scotland, ononis spinosa is used in skin care products as an astringent and an antiseptic. Independent scientific research on other uses of ononis spinosa is limited, but various web sources, including LifePharmacy.com, claim that ononis spinosa may provide a quote-on-quote “natural tan” by stimulating melanin production via increase of tyrosinase activity. This is interesting. If true, ononis spinosa has the opposite effect of hydroquinone, which is commonly used to treat freckles, melasma, and general brown patching by decreasing tyrosinase activity. At any rate, research on ononis spinosa, like Chai Hu extract, seems too limiting to determine if this ingredient is truly beneficial or not.
Why does the product contain amino acids and ATP?
Not for the reason you would think. Keratinocytes exposed to air have been demonstrated by Denda et. al. to induce an increase in intracellular calcium concentrations. In turn, the increase in internal calcium levels regulates the skin when it is exposed to a dry environment. Therefore, the ATP makes the product hydrating in a rather novel way. In addition, Begoun reports that topical application of amino acids can exhibit emollient, antioxidant, and wound healing properties.
Can amino acids and ATP in skin care products help to re-build wrinkles?
Based on current research, no. Serine, arginine, and glycine are amino acids (not to be confused with amino acid peptides), and ATP is adenosine triphosphate, the basic energy currency of the cell. The theory of infusing skin care with amino acids and ATP seems to come from the fact that the body undergoes anabolic processes, constructing (and re-constructing) new proteins from the amino acids, and consuming ATP in the process. However, according to Begoun, they have never been shown to have any effect on rebuilding wrinkles. Further, while ATP level decrease is one of the markers of intrinsic skin aging, it has never been shown that ATP can diffuse through the skin to increase intracellular ATP levels. As such, ATP seems to be included as an emollient only.
What about the other ingredients?
The product contains vitamin C and vitamin E, network antioxidants that synergistically enhance the already potent antioxidant power of one another. The product also contains a strong amount of hydrating ingredients, including cyclomethicone, glycerin, squalane, dimethicone, niacinamide, and amino acids. Finally, the product contains sweet marjoram (Origanum Majorana) as another antioxidant source and Angelica Acutiloba (Dong Quai), which serves as an anti-inflammatory ingredient.
Overall opinions?
A good hydrating and antioxidant source, with some anti-inflammatory properties. Due to the inclusion of ononis spinosa and the suspicion that ononis spinosa may increase melanin production, I would not use the product if age spots or freckling was a concern. In addition, I would not buy this product because of the inclusion of Chai Hu (one of the most advertised ingredients) because of the lack of independent published scientific research on Chai Hu’s effects on the skin, as well as the low concentration of Chai Hu in this product. Further, there are many products with ingredients that are scientifically proven to be hydrating and excellent antioxidant sources that cost less money (some examples: RevaléSkin with coffeeberry, $99.00 for 1.7 oz., Beauticreams.com; Topix Replenix Cream with green tea, $45.45 for 1.0 oz, Amazon.com, Skinceuticals CE Ferulic, $103.70 for 1 oz., Amazon.com). Overall, a solid product, but it’s too expensive for what you can prove you are getting. Product Rating: 7/10.
Product Ingredients
Water, Cyclomethicone, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Dimethicone, Cetyl Octanoate, Squalane, Dimethicone Copolyol, Dipropylene Glycol, Quaternium-18 Hectorite, Trimethylsiloxysilicate, PEG 150, Ononis Spinosa, Agar, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Serine, Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate, Glycine, Arginine HCI, Disodium Adenosine Triphosphate, Trisodium EDTA, Niacinamide, Polyquaternium 51, Angelica Acutiloba, Origanium Majorana, Bupleurum Falcatum, Polysilicone 2, Phenoxythanol, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Parfum, CI77492, CI77491
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October 29th, 2007
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We all know that Sarah Jessica Parker’s upcoming Sex and the City movie is likely to yield amazing results in the box office, but is one of Parker’s endorsed products, Garnier Nutritioniste Skin Renew Daily Regenerating Serum ($12.63, Amazon.com) likely to do the same for your skin? With lycopene, magnesium, and vitamin C, the company claims its innovation is in its use of unique time-released “dermatological-nutrients.”
Is lycopene a superior anti-aging ingredient?
Based on current research, no. Lycopene, the caroten that gives tomatoes its red pigment, has been reported by Dr. G. Todorov to be the best antioxidant among carotens, with at least twice the free-radical scavenging ability as ß-carotene. Lycopene also serves as a natural sunscreen, providing a UVB of about 3, and it is speculated that lycopene could improve cell-to-cell junctions, theoretically improving skin’s texture. Unfortunately, lycopene’s benefits seem to end there. A 2002 study by Offord et. al. found that lycopene’s ability to suppress expression of matrix metalloproteinase-1 (collagen-digesting) mRNA was markedly lower than that of vitamin C or vitamin E. In fact, the study found that lycopene was only able to suppress matrix metalloproteinase mRNA expression when accompanied by vitamin E, as it is found in the Garnier Nutritioniste product. However, the use of lycopene at all is questionable, as a 2005 study by Yeh et. al demonstrated that topical application of lycopene “enhances UVA-induced oxidative stress in [mouse] fibroblast (skin) cells, and…under UVA irradiation, lycopene may produce oxidative products that are responsible for the prooxidant effects.” Although this study was done on the mouse, based on these results and similar from Offord et. al., it does not seem advisable to use lycopene at this time.
Are the company’s claims about magnesium valid?
Yes. According to the Garnier Nutritioniste website, magnesium “energizes and hydrates surface-cells for a deeper radiance.” This claim is valid, as a 2005 study by Proksch et. al. (amongst others) found that magnesium salts increase the rate of barrier function and hydrate the skin.
What is the ascorbyl glucoside? [updated November 28, 2007]
The product’s vitamin C form, ascorbyl glucoside, seems to be where the nutrition fits in, as according to The Annual Review on Nutrition, “a stable ascorbyl glucoside may have nutritional applications.” More will be added on ascorbyl glucoside after more information is made available.
Overall opinions?
Based on the scientific literature available, I personally would not use this product. Although glycerin and dimethicone are hydrating and magnesium is beneficial, the lycopene’s potential to stimulate damaging oxidative by-products concerns me. However, as I have said before, I am still a student, so if anyone can provide refuting information on lycopene or ascorbyl glucoside, I would be glad to hear it, and will promptly revise the article. At this time, however, based on the scientific literature I have found, I personally would not use this product. Overall rating: 2/10.
Ingredients
Aqua (Water), Dimethicone, Propylene Glycol, Glycerin, Isohexadecane, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Solanum Lycopersicum (Tomato) Extract, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Magnesium PCA, Actinidia Chinensis (Kiwi Fruit Water), Capryloyl Salicylic Acid, Manganese PCA, Zinc PCA, Sodium PCA, Tocopheryl Acetate, Octyldodecanol, Hexylene Glycol, Carbomer, Ceteth 10, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), Disodium EDTA, Laureth 4, Mica, Nylon 12, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Polycaprolactone, Polysorbate 80, Sodium Citrate, Sodium Hydroxide, Methylparaben, Phenoxyethanol, Imidazolidinyl Urea, Chlorphenesin, Parfume (Fragrance), Linalool, Limonene, Geraniol, Benzyl Salicylate, FIL
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October 28th, 2007
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Worst Products |
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As the weather turns colder as we approach November, many women (myself included) start to look for hydrating serums. Two popular choices currently on the market are Philosophy When the Hope is Not Enough Facial Lifting and Firming Serum ($38.00, Amazon.com) and Skinceuticals Hydrating B5 Gel ($45.00, Amazon.com). Since the two products both claim to be hydrators with anti-aging effects, choosing one is not an easy task, but after testing each and analyzing the ingredients, I made the switch from Skinceuticals Hydrating B5 Gel to Philosophy When the Hope is Not Enough Facial Lifting and Firming Serum.
What Do the Ingredients in Philosophy’s When the Hope is Not Enough Serum Do?
The Hope is Not Enough serum is an outstanding product, containing a multitude of hydrating ingredients, soy protein, amino acid peptides, a potent antioxidant complex and anti-irritant ingredients. The hydrating components include higher molecular weight alcohols, glycerin, sodium hyaluronate, and lecithin. Hydrolyzed soy protein and palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 (the latter in concentrations between 2-8%) have been found to individually provide increased collagen synthesis and natural production of hyaluronic acid in the skin. The combination of the two ingredients should have the same, and most likely stronger, effects. (No scientific studies to date have shown the effect of combining soy protein and palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 in the skin.) The product also contains an exciting combination of network antioxidants glutathione and vitamin C-E complex (Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate). According to Dr. Leslie Baumann in Cosmetic Dermatology, network antioxidants glutathione, vitamin C, vitamin E, lipoic acid and coenzyme Q10 have been found to work synergistically to enhance the antioxidant power of each ingredient. To date, the efficacy of network antioxidants versus single potent antioxidants (like coffee berry or green tea) has not been measured. However, in the fight against age-inducing free radicals, it is safe to say that this or any product with network antioxidants is extremely competitive in today’s skin care market. The product rounds itself out with soothing ingredients: hydrolyzed soy protein, allantoin, and aloe barbadensis leaf juice.
What Do the Ingredients in Skinceuticals Hydrating B5 Gel Do?
Surprisingly, the main ingredient in Skinceuticals Hydrating B5 Gel is not vitamin B5, but sodium hyaluronate. Hyaluronic acid is naturally synthesized in the skin; when sodium hyaluronate (the form used for its greater chemical stability) is applied topically, it is an excellent water-binding agent that is effective in both high and low humidity conditions. In addition, the product contains pantothenoic acid, or vitamin B5. According to Paula Begoun, the “Cosmetics Cop,” pantothenoic acid has been shown to be effective for hydration and wound healing. Unfortunately, Skinceuticals’ note that the Hydrating B5 Gel “is recommended for use with vitamin C products” is unfounded, as no published scientific studies to date show that vitamin B5 increases vitamin C absorption or performance in the skin. Begoun further points out, “The claim is that this product is essential for use with vitamin C products [is] confusing! Does that mean that L-ascorbic acid (vitamin C) isn’t the big deal, but that you need to layer products to get the miracle results?” In essence, by layering the Skinceuticals Hydrating B5 Serum with a potent antioxidant serum, the sum of ingredients resembles Philosophy When the Hope is Not Enough Facial Lifting and Firming Serum.
So should I choose Philosophy When the Hope is Not Enough?
Most likely, yes, but one caveat: Philosophy When the Hope is Not Enough Facial Lifting and Firming Serum contains fragrance, vitamin C and E, and also a higher number of ingredients, all of which may trigger sensory irritation in some patients with sensitive skin. A recommendation is to patch test the product at a local Philosophy retailer, such as Sephora.
Overall, Philosophy When the Hope is Not Enough Facial Lifting and Firming Serum is an excellent product with many potent anti-agers, and is my personal top choice amongst hydrating serums right now. Rating: 10/10. However, if you have sensitive skin, use other anti-aging treatments and are just looking for an excellent hydrating serum, Skinceuticals Hydrating B5 Gel is an excellent buy as well. Rating: 8.5/10.
Ingredients in Philosophy When the Hope is Not Enough Facial Lifting and Firming Serum
Water (aqua), Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Pentylene Glycol, Propylene Glycol, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, PEG 7 Glyceryl Cocoate, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide 3, Glutathione, Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate, Larrea Divaricata Extract (chapparel), Sodium Hyaluronate, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Allantoin, Carbomer, Lecithin, Polysorbate 20, Sodium Hydroxide, Phenoxyethanol, Methylbromo Glutaronitrile, Fragrance (parfum), Tetrasodium EDTA
Ingredients in Skinceuticals Hydrating B5 Gel
Water, Sodium Hyaluronate, Pantothenic Acid, Phenoxyethanol
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October 27th, 2007
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futurederm |
Best Products |
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When used in moderate amounts, copper peptides (Glycl-L-histidyl-L-lysine-Copper II, also known as GHK-Cu) may be a powerful weapon against skin aging. According to James J. Leyden, a professor of Dermatology at the University of Pennsylvania and founder of the School’s Skin Study Center who conducted a study for Johnson and Johnson, “GHK-Cu incorporated into skin care and cosmetic products is useful for improving the appearance of aging skin…Products containing GHK-Cu result in rapid improvement in skin condition, including reduction in the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, roughness, sallowness (a sickly yellowish skin color), laxity and hyperpigmentation (brown spots).”
Can copper peptides drastically improve collagen synthesis?
Yes. Copper peptides have been known to induce collagen production in fibroblasts in vitro as long ago as 1988. Since that time, some studies have found that copper peptide complexes stimulate even greater procollagen synthesis than potent anti-agers Retin-A (tretinoin) or ascorbic acid (vitamin C). Copper peptides specifically affect the synthesis of collagen 3, also called “fetal collagen,” the second most prevalent collagen type in the dermis. Comprising 15% of the dermis (collagen type I comprises 80%), collagen type III gives the skin compliance, and its levels decrease naturally with age. Although the exact mechanism is not known at this time, it is known that copper is involved in the formation of the enzyme superoxide dismutase, which serves as a potent antioxidant in the skin. Copper is also essential for the enzyme lysyl oxidase, which is involved in the cross-linking of elastin and collagen, so it is possible that these are at least partially responsible for the increase in collagen synthesis.
Does this mean that copper peptides are more effective anti-agers than Retin-A or vitamin C?
Not necessarily. Although copper peptides were established by Abdulghani et. al. to be more effective in stimulating procollagen synthesis, it has not been found to improve the texture of skin (as both Retin-A and vitamin C have), or as a matrix metalloproteinase inhibitor. Dr. Patricia Wexler, a New York-based dermatologist with a skin care line at Bath and Body Works, recommends both Retin-A and vitamin C as two of the ten most effective matrix metalloproteinase inhibitors, which inhibit the enzymes that degrade collagen.
Can copper peptides really improve wound healing?
Yes. According to numerous studies, including a 1993 study by Maquart et. al., copper increases the rate of connective tissue accumulation in vivo, effectively increasing the rate of wound closure.
Do copper peptides potentially have any negative effects?
Yes. According to Dr. G. Todorov, a medical researcher with a special interest in cell biology and anti-aging medicine, copper peptides generally have a good safety profile, but may have side effects in those who are sensitive to the ingredient. In addition, Dr. Todorov notes that excessive use of copper can increase the levels of free copper in the skin (and hence free radicals) and possibly trigger the production of damaging metalloproteinases. In fact, a 1999 study in Nature found that copper peptides activate matrix metalloproteinase-2 during healing processes. As the study suggests, in these instances of healing, it is possible that the usually damaging matrix metalloproteinase-2 is actually useful. However, whether applying copper and inducing matrix metalloproteinase-2 formation in non-wounded areas induces the collagen-breaking effects of matrix metalloproteinase-2 over time remains yet to be seen. Further, it is unknown how much copper would need to be used, or for how often, for free radical or matrix metalloproteinase formation to occur. As Dr. Todorov notes, further study clearly needs to be done.
In what products are copper peptides available?
According to Dr. Leslie Baumann, author of Cosmetic Dermatology, Neutrogena (i.e., Johnson & Johnson) licensed the rights from Procyte and has made a relatively inexpensive formula in Neutrogena Visibly Firm with Active Copper ($16.91, Amazon.com). The product unfortunately does not contain any other potent anti-agers, such as retinoids or antioxidants, but if skin laxity and wound healing are major concerns, the formulation does contain a good concentration of copper peptide complex, particularly for the money.
Overall, are copper peptides worth it?
Copper peptides have been established in the Abdulghani et. al. study to induce surprisingly high levels of collagen production. However, there are so many potent anti-aging ingredients that stimulate collagen production and provide additional benefits. For instance, soy extract and amino acid peptides repair collagen and stimulate hyaluronic acid production, whereas Retin-A and vitamin C are both antioxidants. It is a shame that the Neutrogena Visibly Firm with Active Copper product does not combine antioxidants, retinoids, hyaluronic acid or matrix metalloproteinase inhibitors with the copper, particularly when there are suspicions that the copper may induce free radical and matrix metalloproteinase formation. At any rate, however, copper is an exciting ingredient, if only for its collagen production and wound healing effects. (Neutrogena Visibly Firm with Active Copper product rating: 6.5/10).
Water, PPG-2 Myristyl Ether Propionate, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Glycerin, Cetyl Alcohol, Dimethicone, Butylene Glycol, Hexydecyl Stearate, Cyclopentasiloxane, Canola Oil, Squalane, Butyrospermium Parkii, Polyacrylamide, Glyceryl Stearate, Copper Tripeptide-1, Allantoin, Nylon 12, Cyclohexasiloxane, Arginine, PEG-75 Stearate, Ceteth-20, Steareth-20, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Laureth-7, Tocopheryl Acetate, Xanthan Gum, BHT, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Butylparaben, Isopropylparaben, Isobutylparaben, Fragrance.
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October 26th, 2007
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Ever wonder why somebody doesn’t just throw all of today’s best anti-agers into one cream? Apparently, Bliss thought so, and they created the Youth as We Know It moisturizer ($79.00, Amazon.com). The company claims the product is infused with MMP Inhibitors, Wrinkle Reduction Peptides, Visual Facial Fillers, Cellular Respiration Boosters, Hyperdermal Destressors, 7-Day Hydrators, Barrier Repairing Ceramides, Wrinkle Relaxers, Multifruit Complex, and Retinyl Palmitate. In other words, according to Bliss, this stuff has it all.
Are the Ingredients Effective?
The product has a very high concentration of hydrating ingredients, including glycerin, squalane, pentylene glycol, cetearyl alcohol (yes, high molecular-weight alcohols such as these hydrating), shea butter, olive oil, sodium hyaluronate and vegetable oil. The ceramide 2 in the product, while hydrating, should also improve skin’s repair (barrier) functions, as a report by Lavrijsen et. al [amongst others] confirms.
The product’s next highest ingredients are potent antioxidants, including (in order from highest to lowest concentration) olive oil, tocopherol (vitamin E), carrot, soybean, black tea, grape seed extract, hydrolyzed algin (algae), orange extract, and lemon extract, amongst others. According to Paula Begoun, author of Don’t Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me, the soy proteins contain genistein, which exhibits both anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties. Altogether, soy proteins stimulate the production of collagen and hyaluronic acid in human fibroblasts cultured in vitro, increasing the firmness, elasticity, and suppleness of the skin.
It may be noted that the amino acid peptides in the product (palmitoyl oligopeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide 7) have the same effect as the soy extract, and also act as wrinkle relaxers. According to Dr. Gary Goldfaden in the June 2005 issue of Le Magazine, the two most potent topically applied wrinkle relaxers are acetyl hexapeptide-3 and gamma amino butyl acid, the latter of which appears to be in the product in fairly high concentration. Goldfaden mentions that it may be “a few weeks” before the wrinkle-relaxing results take effect.
The MMP inhibitors present in the product include beta-carotene, vitamin E, and vitamin C (via orange and lemon extracts). MMP inhibitors play a significant role in the fight against aging as they inhibit expression of the MMP genes, which encode for enzymes that destroy collagen in the skin; namely, collagenase, gelatinase, and stromelysin-1. (For more on MMP inhibitors, see the product review of Dr. Wexler’s MMPi Skin Regeneration Serum.)
Are there any ineffective ingredients?
Yes. Soluble collagen applied topically is a waste of money. According to Dr. Leslie Baumann in Cosmetic Dermatology, topically applied collagen is too large to fit through the uppermost layer of the skin to affect the collagen-producing cells in the lower lying dermal layer. As such, even though the collagen produced in the skin naturally supplies elasticity and firmness, topically applying collagen has absolutely no effect on collagen production levels.
The product also contains a form of yeast extract (Saccharomyces lysate), which has never been shown in scientific literature to have benefits for the skin. The reason for its inclusion is most likely the fact that beta-glucan, a potent antioxidant, is derived from yeast.
Are any of the ingredients (or the mixture of so many!) potentially harmful?
Unfortunately, yes. For some time, it was believed that oxygenating the skin was beneficial. However, oxygenating the skin by topically applying oxygen-containing ingredients (such as the hydrogen peroxide in this product) has been reported by Keyse et. al (amongst numerous others) to induce free radical formation in human skin fibroblasts. The free radicals induce a vicious chain reaction that attacks cells, proteins, and DNA, and free radicals are believed to play a significant role in the aging process. Thankfully, the product contains hydrogen peroxide in extremely low concentrations, and contains numerous potent antioxidants, which impede or slow the free radical chain reaction. Therefore, it is possible that the net effect of the moisturizer does not induce free radical formation; however, it would be best if this ingredient was removed.
Despite the sheer number of ingredients, the formulation of the product is surprisingly smooth, and absorbs well into the skin. However, the product may be somewhat irritating for those with particularly sensitive skin, as it contains benzoic acid and salicyclic acid, which have been reported by Baumann as common causes of immunologic contact urticaria (contact allergies). The consumer’s best bet is to try the product on a small patch of skin at the nearest Sephora, Saks Fifth Avenue, or other fine retailer that carries Bliss products.
Overall, to buy or not to buy?
Of its ten claims, the product strongly lives up to eight of them: it does contain potent MMP inhibitors, wrinkle reduction peptides, wrinkle relaxers, hyperdermal destressors (if what they mean by this is “calming and soothing ingredients”), hydrators, barrier repairing ceramides, multifruit complex (antioxidant complex), and retinyl palmitate. However, the product does not contain effective “Visual Facial Fillers.” Although collagen may be injected into the dermal layer of skin, as previously mentioned, topically applying collagen to the uppermost layer of skin has no effect. In addition, the product’s “Cellular Respiration Booster,” hydrogen peroxide, has never been shown in scientific literature to have any positive effect on the skin, and it only induces the production of free radicals. However, this effect may be neutralized by the potent antioxidant ingredients in the product.
Overall, an excellent night cream (no sunscreen) with lots going for it. Before purchasing, if you have sensitive skin, you may want to try a patch test first at your local Bliss retailer. 8/10.
Product Ingredients
Water (Aqua), Cyclopentasiloxane, PPG 3 Benzyl Ether Myristate, Glycerin, Squalane, Pentylene Glycol, Saccharide Isomerate, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), Cetearyl Alcohol, Aminobutyric Acid, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil (Olive), Tocopheryl Acetate, Daucus Carota Sativa Root (Carrot), Glycine Soja Seed Extract (Soybean), Polysilicone 11, Barium Sulfate, Saccharomyces Xylinum Black Tea Ferment, Acrylates C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Polysorbate 60, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Ceteth 10 Phosphate, Dicetyl Phosphate, Butylene Glycol, Carbomer, Phenoxyethanol, Ceramide 2, Hydrolyzed Algin, Retinyl Palmitate, Tetrasodium EDTA, Benzyl Alcohol, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide 7, Polysorbate 20, Sea Water (Maris Aqua), Saccharomyces Lysate Extract, Sodium Hydroxide, Centella Asiatica Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Benzoic Acid, Dehydroacetic Acid, Salicylic Acid, Fragrance (Parfum), Benzethonium Chloride, Sodium Hyaluronate, Soluble Collagen, Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract (Grape), Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit/Leaf Extract, Crithmum Maritimum Extract, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Saccharum Officinarum Extract (Sugar Cane), Polyquaternium 51, Sodium PCA, Trehalose, Urea, Hyaluronic Acid, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract (Orange), Citrus Medica Limonum Fruit Extract (Lemon), Acer Saccharum Extract (Sugar Maple), Alkyl Methacrylates Crosspolymer, Hydrogen Peroxide, Limonene, Linalool
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October 24th, 2007
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According to Cosmetic Dermatology, a textbook of the field written by Dr. Leslie Baumann, it has been established that hormones affect acne levels, skin thickness, wrinkles, and hair growth. Understanding of how hormones affect skin is particularly beneficial for women who are postmenopausal and considering HRT, or restoring hormonal levels after cancer treatment.
How do hormones affect acne?
As acne generally begins with puberty and the emergence of hormones, many women blame estrogen and testosterone for their acne troubles. However, according to Cosmetic Dermatology, a surprising 2000 study by Cibula et. al found that there is no correlation between androgens and acne levels. This finding is in line with the fact that some women continue to experience acne as they age and hormonal levels decline.
However, hormones still have proven effective in the fight against acne. Many women find that their acne lessens with oral contraceptive use: a Baumann-cited 1997 study by Redmond et. al found that Ortho Tri-Cyclen Lo reduced acne lesions by 46.4 percent, as compared to 33.9 percent with placebo. In addition, a second Baumann-cited study by Koulianos et. al found that no low-dose combination oral contraceptive is more effective in treating acne than another. As such, even though acne has not young women with acne may benefit somewhat from treatment with low-dose oral contraceptives.
How does estrogen affect skin thickness?
According to L’Oréal, the average woman’s skin decreases in thickness by 7% every ten years. According to Baumann, this is most likely due to the effect of decreasing hormone levels on collagen, elastic fibers, glycoaminoglycans, and hyaluronic acid content. However, skin thickness may be better preserved with hormone replacement therapy. A Baumann-cited 1996 study by Callens et. al found greater skin thickness in women who have undergone hormone replacement therapy than in women who have not undergone hormone replacement therapy. In addition, time plays a role: a Baumann-cited study by Brimcat et. al found that 30 percent of collagen is lost in the first five years after menopause, with an average decline of 2.1 percent per postmenopausal year over a period of twenty years. So the sooner hormone replacement therapy is begun after menopause, the higher the levels of collagen available to be preserved.
How does estrogen affect wrinkles?
According to a 2003 review by Shah et. al., there seems to be no direct answer to this question, but many possibilities. Estrogen prevents a decrease in skin collagen in postmenopausal women, and decreases in collagen types IV and VII are present in the bottom of wrinkles. In addition, estrogen maintains skin moisture by increasing acid mucopolysaccharides and hyaluronic acid in the skin, and increasing sebum levels, which all naturally plump up the skin, decreasing the appearance of wrinkles. Outside of its influence on skin aging, it has been suggested that estrogen increases cutaneous wound healing by regulating the levels of a cytokine, and so it is probable (but certainly not proven) that estrogen may signal for the repair of wrinkles as well.
How does estrogen affect hair growth?
According to the Baumann-cited study by Shuster et. al., estrogen regulates the anagen-telogen cycle, in which the hair grows during the anagen cycle and telogen the resting phase. Increased amounts of estrogen, such as those seen during pregnancy, increase the proportion of hair in the anagen cycle. Conversely, as would be expected in postmenopausal women with decreased levels of estrogen, the proportion of hair in the telogen, or resting, cycle is increased. Although hair growth and loss is certainly more complex than can be determined from estrogen levels, the correlation certainly is influential.
In summary…
In summary, young women experiencing acne may be advised to try low-dose oral contraceptives to treat their acne symptoms, as these have been shown to have beneficial results in clinical trials. In addition, postmenopausal women are encouraged to weigh the risks, as it has been determined that undergoing hormonal replacement therapy as soon as possible has many benefits for the skin and hair, including maintained skin thickness and elasticity and decreased hair loss and wrinkle formation.
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October 23rd, 2007
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The word is out: the new component to look for in your skincare is the Environmental Protection Factor, or EPF. The EPF is a new method for measuring the overall oxidative stress protection capacity of antioxidants commonly found in skin care products, including (but not limited to) idebenone, vitamin E, kinetin, and lipoic acid. The EPF is measured on a scale from 1 to 100. Basically, the higher the score of the antioxidant, the higher the oxidative stress reducing potential, and the higher the anti-aging preventative effects.
According to EPF, what are the most effective antioxidants?
Based on a 2006 study by McDaniel et. al, the most effective antioxidants in reducing oxidative stress are (in order from highest to lowest): idebenone, with an EPF of 95; vitamin E (tocopherol), with an EPF of 80; kinetin, with an EPF of 68; ubiquinone, with an EPF of 55; vitamin C (ascorbic acid), with an EPF of 52; and lipoic acid, with an EPF of 41. Unfortunately, as pointed out in the November 2007 issue of Allure magazine, the relative EPFs of potent antioxidants coffee berry and green tea were not included in the study.
How is EPF measured?
According to The Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, EPF is quantified via a multistep sequence of methods. In vitro methods included using UV-induced radical trapping/scavenging capacity measured by photochemiluminescence, pro-oxidative systems (LDL-CuSO4, microsome-NADPH/ADP/Fe3+) with measurement of primary and secondary oxidation products, UVB irradiation of human keratinocytes, and in vivo evaluation, using the human sunburn cell (SBC) assay. Correlation and trends between in vitro and in vivo results were established, and the standardized test protocol was used to quantify oxidative stress protection capacity of antioxidants.
How can I find the actual EPF of the skin care products I use?
According to the November 2007 issue of Allure magazine, EPF ratings are appearing on Priori Bioengineered Skincare ($17.00-$95.00, EssentialDaySpa.com), a line created by one of the chemists who worked on EPF development. However, future research will most likely establish EPF for other ingredients and skin care products on the market.
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October 22nd, 2007
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Neutrogena Anti-Oxidant Age Reverse Day Lotion SPF 20 ($16.75, Drugstore.com) is the latest product from Neutrogena. Claiming to reduce 99% of free radicals and boosting broad-spectrum UVA/UVB protection to prevent future aging, and many soothing and moisturizing ingredients to improve skin tone and texture now, Neutrogena Anti-Oxidant Age Reverse seems to be a two-fold treatment for the skin.
How does this product compare to other anti-aging antioxidant treatments?
Neutrogena Anti-Oxidant Age Reverse seems to be an excellent, inexpensive source of antioxidants. Neutrogena Anti-Oxidant Age Reverse contains three fairly potent antioxidant sources: Soybean Extract, Feverfew Extract (Chrysantemum Parthenium), and Vitamin E (Tocopherol). Although the use of three antioxidants is more powerful than a single antioxidant, the product does not contain two or more “network antioxidants,” which synergistically enhance the power of one another (source: Dr. Leslie Baumann). These “network antioxidants” are vitamins C and E, glutathione, lipoic acid, and coenzyme Q10. (One source containing two or more “network antioxidants” is Skinceuticals C E Ferulic.) In addition, no single antioxidant on the market has the antioxidant potency of CoffeeBerry (which is not found in this product) as measured by Oxygen Radical Absorbance Capacity Score (ORAC) — a method developed by the U.S. Department of Agriculture as the standard to measure the antioxidant capacity of natural substances. However, despite the lack of “network antioxidants” or coffee berry, Neutrogena Anti-Oxidant Age Reverse has been found in studies by Johnson & Johnson to neutralize 99% of free radicals in the skin. This is highly impressive, as an established, more expensive product like Esteé Lauder Advanced Night Repair claims to neutralize only “up to 90% of free radicals” in studies released by Esteé Lauder Companies. Therefore, Neutrogena Anti-Oxidant Age Reverse seems to be highly effective in neutralizing free radicals. Hopefully, studies in the future will compare the efficacy of this product directly to those containing synergistic network antioxidants and supreme antioxidants like coffee berry.
How can the product improve my skin texture now?
Based on ingredients, it appears that the formulation should be soothing and moisturizing. Neutrogena Anti-Oxidant Age Reverse contains high concentrations of Soybean Extract (Glycine soja), which has been shown to have antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects on the skin, according to Paula Begoun, author of Don’t Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me. The product also contains dimethicone, which is a water-binding that helps moisturize the skin.
Finally, the product contains Feverfew Extract. In the past, Feverfew Extract has gotten a bad reputation because it had been shown by Paulsen et. al (amongst several others) to increase skin sensitivity. However, in 1991, a method for extracting the irritating agent in Feverfew Extract, parthenolide, was developed, and it was found that Feverfew Extract without parthenolide was actually soothing, moisturizing, and a potent antioxidant. Since that time, Johnson and Johnson (makers of Aveeno and Neutrogena, amongst others) have extracted parthenolide from Feverfew Extract and placed it in their skin care products, beginning with Aveeno Ultra-Calming Moisturizer ($13.42, Drugstore.com). It seems that Neutrogena Anti-Oxidant Age Reverse products continue Johnson and Johnson’s use of Feverfew Extract without parthenolide.
Is the sunscreen in this product effective?
The sunscreen contained in this product features avobenzone (1.8%) and oxybenzone (2.0%), which together comprise the Helioplex complex, which has been shown to provide excellent UVA protection. However, in comparison to Neutrogena Ultra Sheer SPF 70, the avobenzone and oxybenzone concentrations are much lower (1.8% vs. 3.0 for avobenzone, and 2.0% versus 6.0% for oxybenzone). Therefore, the UVA protection has been reduced from that of a top product, and those interested in the additional anti-aging benefits of superior UVA protection may wish to apply a stronger sunscreen over Neutrogena Anti-Oxidant Age Reverse, such as Neutrogena Ultra Sheer SPF 70.
In addition, the Day Lotion contains an SPF of only 20, which means that the average user will acquire an SPF (UVB protection) of only about 7 from using this product. Therefore, one should be advised to apply a stronger sunscreen over this formulation to avoid burning as well, particularly when s/he will be in the sun for prolonged amounts of time.
Overall, should I buy this product?
The product appears to be an excellent source of antioxidants, particularly for the money, as it neutralizes 99% of free radicals for about one-third of the cost of Esteé Lauder Advanced Night Repair, which neutralizes up to 90% of free radicals. In addition, the soybean extract, dimethicone, and feverfew extract should make this product very soothing and moisturizing to the skin. Overall, however, a strong product, especially for the cost ($16.75, Amazon.com). 8.5/10.
Active Ingredients
Avobenzone (1.8%), Homosalate (7%), Octisalate (4%), Octocrylene (1.5%), Oxybenzone (2%)
Ingredients
Water, Glycerin, Soybean Seed Extract (Glycine Soja), C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Dimethicone, Diethylhexyl 2,6-Naphthalate, Phenyl Trimethicone, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Glucoside, Benzyl Alcohol, Feverfew Extract (Chrysantemum Parthenium), Silica, Tocopherol, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Ethylene Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Steareth 2, Steareth 21, Titanium Dioxide, Mica, Polymethyl Methacrylate, 1,2 Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Methylisothiazolinone, Polysorbate 20, Acrylamide/Ammonium Acrylate Copolymer, Polyisobutene, Acrylates C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Aluminum Starch Octenyl Succinate, Arachidyl Alcohol, Behenyl Alcohol, Arachidyl Glucoside, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Triethanolamine, Fragrance
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October 20th, 2007
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futurederm |
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