Caffeine and Your Skin


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Caffeine, “America’s most used drug”, works on skin in the three primary ways: as an antioxidant (fighting future signs of aging), a diuretic (making the skin temporarily appear smoother), and a vasoconstrictor (may help to reduce puffiness and dark circles caused by vasodilation). Is ingesting caffeine beneficial to the skin? Based on current research, there seems to be a benefit and a detriment to caffeine. When ingested in daily doses of coffee, Devasagayam et. al found in 1999 that there are enough antioxidants from... read more

Product Review: La Mer Eye Concentrate


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La Mer Eye Concentrate is amongst the newest products of the season. Concentrated with hematite, white algae, and the company’s signature Miracle BrothTM, LaMer Eye Concentrate claims to reduce the appearance of dark circles, even skin tone, and soothe and hydrate throughout the day. Do the product’s ingredients indicate it should reduce the appearance of dark circles? Based on ingredients alone, most likely, no. La Mer claims that hematite, a mineral form of iron oxide, should attract blood that has pooled below the eyes. In... read more

Product Review: Olay Definity Eye Illuminator


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Olay Definite Eye Illuminator claims to be a two-in-one sucker punch for the treatment for the delicate undereye region, acting as both a moisturizer and a concealer. Available in the U.S. for the suggested retail price of $25.99, Olay Definity Eye Illuminator contains n-acetyl glucosamine and niacinamide to decrease hyperpigmentation and increase moisturization (temporarily plumping up the skin and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles), and different colors of mica, Earth minerals used to give the skin sparkle and shin. Are... read more

Spotlight On: Alpha Hydroxy Acids


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Alpha hydroxy acid products are the jeans of the skincare world: they have been used for years, but they’re not going anywhere anytime soon. And for good reason: According to Dr. David E. Bank, author of Beautiful Skin, alpha hydroxy acids cause increase exfoliation of the outer layer of skin, unplog pores, and function as a humectant to hydrate the skin. Bank also mentions that AHAs have further been shown to reverse sun damage in the epidermis, and to stimulate collagen and elastin production in the dermis. Dr. Leslie Baumann,... read more

Can Excess Sugar AGE Your Skin?


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Picture: Advanced glycation endproduct pathway. Source: Nature. As you age, not only does collagen production decrease, but collagen itself changes, becoming tough, stiffened, and inflexible. According to DeGrey, advanced glycation endproducts (appropriate acronym: AGE) play an important role in the aging of all of the cells of your body, including within the skin. AGEs come from the processing of blood sugar via the Maillard pathway (see below). The advanced glycation endproduct called glucosepane is believed to be responsible for... read more

Sirtuins and Skin Anti-Aging


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Collagen provides the skin with durability and resilience. As collagen production decreases with age, the skin tends to lose firmness and elasticity. Currently, methods used to stimulate collagen production are resurfacing techniques (CO2 laser, microdermabrasion) and retinoid application. However, according to the October 2007 issue of Allure magazine, there is a new way to stimulate collagen production, by prolonging the life of the cells that make collagen, which are called fibroblasts. How does this occur? Sirtuins, found in... read more

Product Review: L’Oréal Skin Genesis and Lancome Absôlue Premium Bx


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Pictured: L’Oréal Skin Genesis ($21.25, Amazon.com) and Lancôme Absôlue Night Cream ($135.00, Macy’s) The new patented ingredient from L’Oréal, the company that owns Lancôme and L’Oréal, is Pro-XylaneTM, which aims to reduce lines and wrinkles by boosting the production of glycoaminoglycans (GAGs) within the skin. According to the October 2007 issue of Allure magazine, L’Oréal scientists found that when Pro-XylaneTM (the company’s name for xylose, a sugar molecule derived from the beech wood plant)... read more

Sodium Hyaluronate in Skincare Products


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Photo: June 2005, Vitals magazine, Gisele on cover: Inside, prominent NYC dermatologist Patricia Wexler says she always packs Skinceuticals Hydrating B5 Gel, a product containing a high concentration of sodium hyaluronate, when traveling. One of my favorite skincare ingredients is sodium hyaluronate, which is one of the natural moisturizing factors (NMFs) found in the skin. Together with lipids, NMFs keep skin from losing water, maintaining skin’s young, smooth, non-flaky appearance. In fact, a 2000 study by Sakai et. al cited by... read more