Recently, I received an e-mail from a reader wanting to know what I use on my skin, and specifically, if the creams featured on the upper right hand corner of the page are my moisturizers. Unfortunately, no; those moisturizers are a stock picture from another site! However, I have listed the moisturizers I use daily below, along with highly recommended products and the dermatologists who recommend them.
…But First, Consider Your Type of Skin
I have fair, normal skin that tends to get oily in the T-zone. In addition, according to the 88-question survey in Dr. Leslie Baumann’s The Skin Type Solution, my skin is slightly dry and sensitive, pigmented and tight (DSPT). Dr. Baumann is the Director of Cosmetic Dermatology at the University of Miami, and her The Skin Type Solution book recommends specific cleansers, moisturizers, powders and sunscreens for each of sixteen different skin types. I recommend her book highly, as in the March 2006 issue of Allure magazine, it was said perfectly: “One [even great] skin cream absolutely doesn’t fit all.” Therefore, specific recommendations for you in The Skin Type Solution are most likely better than generalized recommendations, so please, keep that in mind.
Morning routine
Cetaphil cleanser. A very simple cleanser that removes make-up and oily residue without clogging pores. Many dermatologists recommend it; in fact, an extensive list of praises in the news from dermatologists is available here.
Skinceuticals CE Ferulic ($95.99, Amazon.com). By far, the most expensive product I use. When I started using it at nineteen, I had three small sunspots on my face. Six weeks later, they were much lighter; within a year, they were gone. My story is validated by current research, which has demonstrated that a solution of 5% or greater of L-ascorbic acid eliminates the appearance of sunspots, although substantially less than 4% hydroquinone. The product’s other features are additionally backed by an independent 2003 study by Lin et. al. which affirmed that a solution of 15% L-ascorbic acid and 1% alpha-tocopherol (such as that found in Skinceuticals CE Ferulic) increases photoprotection against damaging UV rays and free radical formation. A recent 2007 study in Dermatological Surgery further established that L-ascorbic acid and α-tocopherol (the most potent form of vitamin E) synergistically enhance one another in cosmeceuticals for enhanced collagen production, inhibition of the acute ultraviolet (UV) damage of erythema, sunburn, and tanning, as well as chronic UV photoaging and skin cancer. I talk about this product all the time, but just because it is one of my favorites.
In the fall/winter: NIA24 Sun Damage Prevention 100% Mineral Sunscreen SPF 30 ($55.00, NIA24.com). The product contains 5% Pro-NiacinTM, which has been shown to have effects similar to that of niacinamide, which, according to Bissett et. al., reduces fine lines and wrinkles, hyperpigmented spots, red blotchiness, and skin sallowness (yellowing), and increases elasticity. NIA24 Sun Damage Prevention 100% Mineral Sunscreen SPF 30 also contains 9.4% micronized Titanium Dioxide and 3.6% Zinc Oxide. Although I would prefer it to be more zinc oxide than titanium dioxide, the product is an excellent way to get the effects of niacin with a sunscreen everyday. One caveat: for the first few applications, I experienced a bit of the “first blush, initial breakout, or dryness” talked about on the NIA24 informational brochure, so I gradually worked up to everyday use.
In the spring/summer: Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Dry Touch Sunblock SPF 70 ($18.49 for two, Amazon.com), which is arguably the best UVA protection on the market. Although Mexoryl, an ingredient found in L’Oréal RevitaLift UV, absorbs UVA at a higher wavelength range than Helioplex (found in Neutrogena sunscreens), Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Dry Touch Sunblock SPF 70 has been reported to have a PFA value (a measure of UVA efficacy) of 23.3 or 26.5, interestingly higher than the reported PFA value of 10 for Mexoryl. I like Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Dry Touch Sunblock SPF 70 because of the high UVA and UVB protection, although it is oilier in consistency than NIA24 Sun Damage Prevention 100% Mineral Sunscreen SPF 30.
Night
Cetaphil cleanser. See above.
Neutrogena Healthy Skin Anti-Wrinkle Cream SPF 15 ($24.23 for two, Amazon.com), which contains a fairly high concentration of retinol and antioxidant green tea. According to dermatologist Mary Lupo in the October 2007 Allure magazine: “With regular use, this cream improves skin’s brightness, color, and texture, and softens existing lines and crepiness. If you start using it in your twenties, before you see these changes, you could push them off further.” One caveat: you may want to avoid the product if you are pregnant or nursing (although, based on current scientific evidence, this is not necessary).
What Additional Products Dermatologists Often Recommend
Relastin Eye Silk. Revance Therapeutics has developed Relastin, a moisturizer (or eye cream) with a patent-pending Zinc-Firming Complex that actually causes elastin levels in the skin to increase. This is largely unprecedented, as other formulations, of which there are two main types, only attempt to preserve current elastin levels in the skin. The first of these formulations feature matrix metalloproteinase inhibitors (MMPis), which inhibit matrix metalloproteinase 2 (and the other nineteen matrix metalloproteinases). Matrix metalloproteinase 2 is significant because it degrades elastin (Baumann). The second type of formulation features plant-or-animal-derived elastin as an ingredient. Unfortunately, application of elastin topically has never been demonstrated to increase its production in the skin. In skincare formulations, elastin is only an effective water-binding agent.
Quintessence Under Eye Serum ($65.00, BaumannStore.com). The product contains retinoids and vitamin K, which have been shown in a study by Elson et. al to be effective against undereye circles.
…Happy shopping!
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December 3rd, 2007
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futurederm |
Antioxidant Treatments, Best Products, Sunblocks |
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Recently, I received an e-mail from a reader wanting to know what I use on my skin, and specifically, if the creams featured on the upper right hand corner of the page are my moisturizers. Unfortunately, no; those moisturizers are a stock picture from another site! However, I have listed the moisturizers I use daily below, along with highly recommended products and the dermatologists who recommend them.
…But First, Consider Your Type of Skin
I have fair, normal skin that tends to get oily in the T-zone. In addition, according to the 88-question survey in Dr. Leslie Baumann’s The Skin Type Solution, my skin is slightly dry and sensitive, pigmented and tight (DSPT). Dr. Baumann is the Director of Cosmetic Dermatology at the University of Miami, and her The Skin Type Solution book recommends specific cleansers, moisturizers, powders and sunscreens for each of sixteen different skin types. I recommend her book highly, as in the March 2006 issue of Allure magazine, it was said perfectly: “One [even great] skin cream absolutely doesn’t fit all.” Therefore, specific recommendations for you in The Skin Type Solution are most likely better than generalized recommendations, so please, keep that in mind.
Morning routine
Cetaphil cleanser. A very simple cleanser that removes make-up and oily residue without clogging pores. Many dermatologists recommend it; in fact, an extensive list of praises in the news from dermatologists is available here.
Skinceuticals CE Ferulic ($95.99, Amazon.com). By far, the most expensive product I use. When I started using it at nineteen, I had three small sunspots on my face. Six weeks later, they were much lighter; within a year, they were gone. My story is validated by current research, which has demonstrated that a solution of 5% or greater of L-ascorbic acid eliminates the appearance of sunspots, although substantially less than 4% hydroquinone. The product’s other features are additionally backed by an independent 2003 study by Lin et. al. which affirmed that a solution of 15% L-ascorbic acid and 1% alpha-tocopherol (such as that found in Skinceuticals CE Ferulic) increases photoprotection against damaging UV rays and free radical formation. A recent 2007 study in Dermatological Surgery further established that L-ascorbic acid and α-tocopherol (the most potent form of vitamin E) synergistically enhance one another in cosmeceuticals for enhanced collagen production, inhibition of the acute ultraviolet (UV) damage of erythema, sunburn, and tanning, as well as chronic UV photoaging and skin cancer. I talk about this product all the time, but just because it is one of my favorites.
In the fall/winter: NIA24 Sun Damage Prevention 100% Mineral Sunscreen SPF 30 ($55.00, NIA24.com). The product contains 5% Pro-NiacinTM, which has been shown to have effects similar to that of niacinamide, which, according to Bissett et. al., reduces fine lines and wrinkles, hyperpigmented spots, red blotchiness, and skin sallowness (yellowing), and increases elasticity. NIA24 Sun Damage Prevention 100% Mineral Sunscreen SPF 30 also contains 9.4% micronized Titanium Dioxide and 3.6% Zinc Oxide. Although I would prefer it to be more zinc oxide than titanium dioxide, the product is an excellent way to get the effects of niacin with a sunscreen everyday. One caveat: for the first few applications, I experienced a bit of the “first blush, initial breakout, or dryness” talked about on the NIA24 informational brochure, so I gradually worked up to everyday use.
In the spring/summer: Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Dry Touch Sunblock SPF 70 ($18.49 for two, Amazon.com), which is arguably the best UVA protection on the market. Although Mexoryl, an ingredient found in L’Oréal RevitaLift UV, absorbs UVA at a higher wavelength range than Helioplex (found in Neutrogena sunscreens), Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Dry Touch Sunblock SPF 70 has been reported to have a PFA value (a measure of UVA efficacy) of 23.3 or 26.5, interestingly higher than the reported PFA value of 10 for Mexoryl. I like Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Dry Touch Sunblock SPF 70 because of the high UVA and UVB protection, although it is oilier in consistency than NIA24 Sun Damage Prevention 100% Mineral Sunscreen SPF 30.
Night
Cetaphil cleanser. See above.
Neutrogena Healthy Skin Anti-Wrinkle Cream SPF 15 ($24.23 for two, Amazon.com), which contains a fairly high concentration of retinol and antioxidant green tea. According to dermatologist Mary Lupo in the October 2007 Allure magazine: “With regular use, this cream improves skin’s brightness, color, and texture, and softens existing lines and crepiness. If you start using it in your twenties, before you see these changes, you could push them off further.” One caveat: you may want to avoid the product if you are pregnant or nursing (although, based on current scientific evidence, this is not necessary).
What Additional Products Dermatologists Often Recommend
Relastin Eye Silk. Revance Therapeutics has developed Relastin, a moisturizer (or eye cream) with a patent-pending Zinc-Firming Complex that actually causes elastin levels in the skin to increase. This is largely unprecedented, as other formulations, of which there are two main types, only attempt to preserve current elastin levels in the skin. The first of these formulations feature matrix metalloproteinase inhibitors (MMPis), which inhibit matrix metalloproteinase 2 (and the other nineteen matrix metalloproteinases). Matrix metalloproteinase 2 is significant because it degrades elastin (Baumann). The second type of formulation features plant-or-animal-derived elastin as an ingredient. Unfortunately, application of elastin topically has never been demonstrated to increase its production in the skin. In skincare formulations, elastin is only an effective water-binding agent.
Quintessence Under Eye Serum ($65.00, BaumannStore.com). The product contains retinoids and vitamin K, which have been shown in a study by Elson et. al to be effective against undereye circles.
…Happy shopping!
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December 3rd, 2007
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Nowadays, it seems that everyone is talking about Dermalogica products. One of the products, Dermalogica Skin Smoothing Cream ($51.66, Amazon.com) claims to be “a medium-weight cream that maintains skin’s moisture balance while improving its texture.” Based on scientific research studies of the ingredients, is the product as great as many are saying?
Vitamin A as retinyl palmitate
Dermalogica Skin Smoothing Cream contains vitamin A in the form of retinyl palmitate. According to a 1997 study in the Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 0.6% retinyl palmitate was less effective in penetrating human skin than 0.025% retinol (these concentrations are similar to those found in many over-the-counter skincare formulations). In addition, another study found retinol is 20 times less potent than prescription retinoic acid in the skin. However, even though retinyl palmitate is less potent than retinol, it has been shown to exhibit the collagen-stimulating, smoothing, and wrinkle-reducing properties of retinol over time, and has also been shown to be less irritating.
Numerous antioxidants
Dermalogica Skin Smoothing Cream contains vitamin C as ascorbyl palmitate, vitamin E as tocopherol acetate, and numerous other “natural” sources of antioxidants, including bitter orange extract, grape seed extract and cucumber fruit extract. Because vitamin C and E are network antioxidants, they synergistically enhance the power of one another, making this a more potent antioxidant cream than either vitamin C or vitamin E alone. Unfortunately, Dermalogica Skin Smoothing Cream does not list its concentration of vitamin C or vitamin E; however, the product should still be a highly effective antioxidant treatment, especially with the inclusion of the other antioxidant ingredients.
Very hydrating…but missing sunscreen
Dermalogica Skin Smoothing Cream contains dimethicone, aloe, lecithin, silk amino acids and sodium hyaluronate — a very hydrating cream indeed, which is affirmed by user reviews at SkinStore.com. Unfortunately, Dermalogica Skin Smoothing Cream contains not contain a sunscreen and contains retinyl palmitate, which makes the skin more sensitive to sun damage. Considering that the sun is the number one cause of premature skin aging and exacerbates formation of skin cancer, sunscreen is essential in the morning skin care régimé, and even more important (if that is possible) when using a product containing any form of retinol. However, because of the hydrating nature of Dermalogica Skin Smoothing Cream, one may not wish to use a sunscreen over it; therefore, perhaps Dermalogica Skin Smoothing Cream is best used at night.
Egg yolk extract
According to Milady’s Skin Care and Cosmetics Dictionary, egg yolk extract is a protein with emulsifying properties used in formulations for sensitive skin. Egg yolk extract in skin care formulations temporarily tightens the skin, but the effect does not last, as the skin is not able to take up the large protein. According to Dr. Leslie Baumann in Cosmetic Dermatology, only molecules of molecular weight 5000 or less can penetrate the skin. However, according to this report from VWRSP.com, chicken egg whites have a molecular weight of 14300 Daltons; therefore, the egg yolk extract protein would only temporarily tighten the skin, as it could not penetrate through the skin. According to Milady’s Skin Care and Cosmetics Dictionary, some patients with egg allergies also exhibit reactions when using products with egg yolk extract, and therefore those individuals should avoid this product.
In summary…
Dermalogica Skin Smoothing Cream is a good source of antioxidants, retinyl palmitate, and egg yolk extract, which will temporarily firm and tighten skin. Unfortunately, the hydrating nature of the cream, combined with the fact that it does not contain a sunscreen, does not make it a good candidate to wear during the day. As such, Dermalogica Skin Smoothing Cream is a good source of many ingredients that are proven to be effective, but is best used as a night cream only. In comparison to another product with lots of antioxidants, like Paula’s Choice Antioxidant Serum, I would personally go with Paula’s Choice Antioxidant Serum for the daytime, because it can be worn under sunscreen. Product rating: 8/10 (network antioxidants and a source of retinyl palmitate, but no sunscreen)
Water, Caprylic/capric Triglyceride, Ethylhexyl Hydroxystearate, Butylene Glycol, Stearic Acid, PEG-8, Lactamide MEA, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Dimethicone, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Cetearyl Alcohol, Extracts Of : Citrus Aurantium Amara (bitter Orange) Flower, Vitis Vinifera (grape) Seed Malva Sylvestris (mallow), Hedera Helix (ivy), Cucumis Sativus (cucumber) Fruit, Sambucus Nigra Flower, Arnica Montana Flower, Parietaria Officinalis, Camellia Oleifera Leaf; Essential Oils Of: Zea Mays (corn), Cananga Odorata Flower, Egg Yolk Extract, Lecithin, Silk Amino Acids, Polysorbate 60, Tocopheryl Acetate, Cetyl Alcohol, PEG-100 Stearate, Polyquaternium-10, Propylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Aminomethyl Propanol, Allantoin, Panthenol, Glycolipids, Glyceryl Stearate, Carbomer, Sodium Benzoate, Chlorphenesin, Retinyl Palmitate, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Palmitoyl Hydroxypropyltrimonium Amylopectin/glycerin Crosspolymer, Methylparaben, Disodium EDTA, Propylparaben, Butylparaben, Ethylparaben, Isobutylparaben, Linalool, Benzyl Benzoate, Benzyl Salicylate, Farnesol, Geraniol.
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December 3rd, 2007
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The blog at FutureDerm.wordpress.com is in the process of moving to FutureDerm.com. While working out the bugs for the next two weeks or so, please visit FutureDerm.wordpress.com for the complete site. Thank you! 
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December 3rd, 2007
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