Peter Thomas Roth UnWrinkle Peel Pads ($45.00, Amazon.com) claim to “gently exfoliate skin and stimulate cell turnover, while protecting skin from environmental damage and boosting moisture.” Based on the formulation, is this product as effective as it claims? Furthermore, do Peter Thomas Roth UnWrinkle Peel Pads make a visible difference in the skin after a month of use? To answer that question, FutureDerm has teamed up with the very awesome Beauty411 blog to give an in-depth, ingredients-and-trial analysis. For more, read on…
An incredible source of AHAs
Peter Thomas Roth UnWrinkle Peel Pads contain two alpha hydroxy acids in high concentration: glycolic acid and lactic acid. Glycolic acid is the most common of all the alpha hydroxy acids in skin care products. Used in concentrations 20 to 70 percent at the dermatologist and up to 10 percent over the counter, glycolic acid peels exfoliate and smooth the skin, quicken the rate of cell turnover (which is reduced by up to 7% every ten years), decrease small wrinkles and increase the fibroblast proliferation of collagen. Treatment with glycolic acid peels has also been shown to increase expression of Type 1 Collagen mRNA and hyaluronic acid content in the dermis of the skin. Although the percent glycolic acid in the product is not provided, its location on the ingredients list suggests a high concentration (my best guess would be 8-10%, but again, this is only a guess).
The second AHA, lactic acid, is usually used to treat dry skin, not signs of aging. For anti-aging treatments, glycolic acid is usually preferred to lactic acid because it is smaller and penetrates the skin more easily, and also because glycolic acid has been found to increase the thickness and firmness of the skin, but lactic acid does not. At any rate, this product is an excellent source of AHAs.
May not be right for sensitive skin
This product certainly takes an aggressive approach against wrinkles and rough skin, including not only a high concentration of alpha hydroxy acids, but also retinol. Although the exact concentration of retinol in the product is not provided, based on the ingredients list, my best guess (please note this is only a guess!) would be <0.025%, similar to the level of retinol in Neutrogena Healthy Skin Anti-Wrinkle Cream SPF 15 or RoC Anti-Wrinkle Treatment for All Skin Types. Again, however, this is only a guess. 
While this is a relatively small amount of retinol compared to other sources on the market (Skinceuticals 0.5 and 1.0 contain 0.5% and 1.0% retinol, while Green Cream Level 6 and 9 contain 0.6% and 1.0% retinol, respectively), this still may upset those with sensitive skin. In fact, dermatologists consulted for the December 2007 issue of Allure magazine recommended alternating use of AHAs with retinol rather than using them together. If you have concerns, talk to your dermatologist about use of this product with your specific skin type.
Antioxidants vitamin E, vitamin C, and green tea
This product also contains a fair concentration of antioxidant vitamin E as tocopheryl acetate, which has been found to have a high antioxidant capacity compared with kinetin, ubiquinone, vitamin C (as L-ascorbic acid) and lipoic acid. Again, not the highest antioxidant capacity in skin care (think CoffeeBerry, green tea, idebenone) but still good. The product also includes vitamin C as sodium ascorbyl phosphate, and a low concentration of antioxidant green tea. I think I’m falling in love…
When do I use this product? What other products should I use it with?
According to Amazon.com, the product is a “daily” treatment. However, considering that the product is very strong, with both alpha hydroxy acids and retinol, I personally use the product once/week at night (in place of my normal retinol cream) and before my moisturizer. Nancy from the Beauty411 Blog has chosen to use the product 2-3 times/week, with excellent results. As with most products, if your skin is red and irritated after use, it is generally advised for you to wait until the symptoms clear and then to try again, gradually building up use of the product to the desired frequency. However, in some cases, a product is not right for your skin, in which case an application of the product never fails to induce redness. As always, if you have concerns, consult your dermatologist.
In addition, I would not use this product during the day because both AHAs and retinol have been found to make the skin more photosensitive, i.e., more susceptible to sun damage. In fact, a study conducted by Tsai et. al found that pre-treatment with 10% glycolic acid caused an increase in UVB sensitivity in white and Asian subjects, and an increase in UVA sensitivity in Asian subjects.
As such, whether used during night or day, this product should definitely be used in conjunction with a broad-spectrum, UVA/UVB sunscreen.
How soon should I see results?
Check out the Beauty411 Blog for a glowing review from a fellow blogger who has been using this product 2-3 times a week for a full month!
Overall opinion?
One of my all-time favorite products - however, due to its potency (AHAs and retinol) and the need for sunscreen to be used in conjunction with it, I use it only once/week at night and before special occasions for a smoother look. A great exfoliating treatment - just be careful if you have sensitive skin, and don’t keep using it if the product irritates your skin. Product rating: 9/10 (I wish there weren’t AHAs and retinol, which is a strong combination! At any rate, a superb peel.)
Ingredients
Water, Glycolic Acid, Ethoxydiglycol, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Lactate (Lactic Acid), Rosa Centifolia Flower Water, Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Water, Ppg-5-Ceteth-20, Butylene Glycol, Arginine, Linolenic Acid (Vitamin F), Gamma-Aminobutyric Acid, Tocopherol (Vitamin E), Retinol (Vitamin A), Cholecalciferol (Vitamin D), Alanine, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (Vitamin C), Zingiber Officinale (Ginger) Root Extract, Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Peel Extract, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract, Symphytum Officinale Leaf Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Salicylic Acid, Caprylic/Capric, Triglyceride, Propylene Glycol, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Diazolidinyl Urea.
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January 31st, 2008
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futurederm |
Best Products, Best Products, Best Skincare Gifts, Firming Treatments, Pore Size Treatments, Product Reviews |
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Distinct from the Estée Lauder ReNutriv Ultimate Youth Creme (see yesterday’s post), Estée Lauder ReNutriv Intensive Lifting Creme ($158.00, Estée Lauder.com) contains 54 “precious” ingredients and claims to “sustain hydration over time with special moisture magnets.” Yet, does Estée Lauder ReNutriv Intensive Lifting Creme live up to its claims? Or, like yesterday’s Estée Lauder ReNutriv Ultimate Youth Creme, is it overpriced and underdelivering?
Not much of a “lifting” cream
Although marketed with “intensive lifting” in its name, Estée Lauder ReNutriv Intensive Lifting Creme does not contain any ingredients that have been shown in published scientific studies to actually lift the skin. This is in contrast to other products that exist on the market; for example, those with 3% DMAE have been shown in published scientific studies to firm the skin, giving the appearance of a lift. However, I am rather disappointed that the cream does not contain more established firming ingredients, particularly for the cost.
“Moisture Magnets”
The product contains phytosphingosine, which has been reported in the journal Molecular Medicine to stimulate the differentiation of human keratinocytes in vitro, which indicates that the product may help increase cell turnover. A 2005 study in the International Journal of Pharmaceutics further reported that phytosphingosine helps increase skin elasticity and hydration in human subjects. Other moisturizing ingredients include cyclopentsiloxane, glyceryl distearate, petrolatum, butylene glycol, glyceryl stearate SE, pesea gratisssima sterols (avocado sterols), dimethicone, sodium hyaluronate, collagen, glycerin, and cetyl alcohol, amongst others.
Palmitoyl Oligopeptide
Palmitoyl oligopeptide is a sequence of peptides that reads valine-glycine-valine-alanine-proline-glycine combined with a palmitic acid in order to increase penetration through the epidermis. A 2007 study in Dermatologic Therapy suggests that palmitoyl oligopeptide significantly stimulates human skin collagen production in fibroblasts, which may slow the degradation of collagen over time. On the other hand, palmitoyl oligopeptide has been found to down-regulate elastin expression. From one point of view, this is not a bad thing - as stated in Cosmetic Dermatology, elastin expression naturally increases with age, but the elastin cross-fibers grow in a less organized pattern than in individuals at a younger age, so down-regulating unorganized elastin expression may be a good thing. On the other hand, products that stimulate elastin production (like Relastin Eye Silk) have been found to increase the firmness of the skin, so down-regulating elastin expression may not be a good thing, either.
In addition, keep in mind that not all “amino acid peptides” are the same. The palmitoyl oligopeptide in this product is not to be confused with the most popularly studied signal peptide, palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 or Matrixyl® (Sederma). Matrixyl® is the sequence lysine-threonine-threonine-lysine-serine (KTTKS) has been demonstrated to stimulate feedback regulation of new collagen synthesis and to result in an increased production of extracellular matrix proteins (types I and II collagen and fibronectin), and is found in products like DermaQuest Peptide Mobilizer Serum ($188, DrSkinSpa.com).
Fish (Pisces) Collagen
I have said it before: collagen in skin care products serves as little more than a moisturizing reagent. Adding collagen to a skin care cream is like adding a loaf of bread to a bread recipe - adding bread doesn’t give you bread, just like adding collagen doesn’t make you collagen. This is because, according to Dr. Leslie Baumann in Cosmetic Dermatology, topically applied collagen is too large to fit through the stratum corneum [uppermost layer of the skin], as collagens have a molecular weight of 15000 to 50000 daltons, whereas only molecules of molecular weight 5000 or less can typically penetrate the skin.
Overall: Not a favorite…
For all of the promises of the 54 ingredients, Estée Lauder ReNutriv Intensive Lifting Creme, in my opinion, is not worth the money. The positives: phytosphingosine and palmitoyl oligopeptide will build collagen over time, and the cream is extremely hydrating. However, it does not contain the most studied/most popular amino acid peptide (palmitoyl pentapeptide-3), nor does it contain the most potent antioxidants or combinations thereof, nor does it contain some of the most frequently dermatologist-recommended anti-aging ingredients (retinoids, alpha hydroxy acids, antioxidants, sunscreen). Add in the fact that the product is $158 for 1.7 oz. and $500 for 8.4 oz., and it’s definitely on my least-favorite list. Product rating: 5/10 (builds collagen over time and is hydrating, but few ingredients dermatologists recommend regularly (not even sunscreen!), and a high price tag, particularly for what you are getting)
One note: considering that I dislike both Estée Lauder ReNutriv Intensive Lifting Creme and yesterday’s Estée Lauder ReNutriv Ultimate Youth Creme, please don’t think that I have anything against Estée Lauder products (I think brand bias, in general, makes for poor product reviews). Some products by the company with quality ingredients are Estée Lauder DayWear Plus Multi-Protection AntiOxidant SPF 30 Lotion for Normal/Combination Skin ($38.00, EstéeLauder.com) and Estée Lauder Idealist Pore Minimizing Skin Refresher ($42.00, EstéeLauder.com).
The 54 “Precious” Ingredients
In case you were curious, from a box of Estée Lauder ReNutriv Intensive Lifting Creme, here are the 54 “precious” ingredients: water, cyclopentsiloxane, glyceryl distearate, octyldodecyl octyldodecanate, steareth-10, petrolatum, butylene glycol, glyceryl stearate SE, pesea gratisssima sterols (avocado sterols), dimethicone, phytosteryl/behenyl/octyldodecyl lauryl glutamate, sodium hyaluronate, palmitoyl oligopeptide, coleus barbatus extract, silybum marianum (lady’s thistle), phytosphingosine, collagen, aleuritic acid, sucrose, linoleic acid, palmitoyl hydroxypropyl trimonium, amylopectin/glyceryl crosspolymer, sea whip extract, hydrolyzed vegetable protein, sodium chondroitin sulfate, grape seed extract, micrococcus lysate, caffeine, cholesterol, glyceryl polymetharylate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, panthethine, lecitin, xanthin gum, cis-14 isoparaffin, cetyl ricinoleate, acetyl glucosamine, laureth-7, sodium polyacrylate, glycerin, cetyl alcohol, PEG-8/polyacrylamide, citric acid, disodium EDTA, fragrance, phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, Yellow 5 Cl 19140, Yellow 6 Cl 5955, Red 4 Cl 14706, Patents Pending.
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January 30th, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Dry Skin Treatments, Firming Treatments, Worst Products |
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Estée Lauder ReNutriv Ultimate Youth Creme ($250.00 for 1.7 oz., EstéeLauder.com) is one of the company’s newest anti-agers, advertising fantasies such as “imagine if the appearance of aging could be postponed indefinitely”. (For a full video from the company, click here.) However, how effective is Estée Lauder ReNutriv Ultimate Youth Creme? More importantly, is it worth the money?
The “Youth Molecule” - ResveratrateTM
Estée Lauder ReNutriv Ultimate Youth Creme contains Resveratrate™, which, according to Estée Lauder Co., is a “more potent, stable and time released form of Resveratrol, and was shown by in vitro testing to provide 6 times more protection from environmental damage, more than doubling the survival rate of skin cells.”
Resveratrol, naturally found in red wine, grapes, plums, peanuts, and other plant products, has been shown by Howitz. et al in 2004 to bind to nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). The binding of resveratrol to NAD prevents NAD from binding to sirtuins, which is the real anti-aging strategy here. Sirtuins prolong the life of the fibroblasts (skin cells) by turning off unnecessary gene expression (i.e., when the fibroblasts aren’t expending more energy than they need to, they will theoretically last longer). This means that, if the theory is correct, sirtuins should prolong the life of the fibroblasts in your skin, enabling you to make collagen naturally for more years than if you did not treat your skin with resveratrol or resveratrol-like complexes.
Are there any downsides to using ResveratrateTM?
Long-term studies on the effects of resveratrol and similar derivatives have not been conducted. However, using any product with niacinamide or nicotinic acid (vitamin B3 derivatives) in conjunction with Estée Lauder ReNutriv Ultimate Youth Creme may negate the effects of Resveratrate™. This is because, unfortunately, sirtuins are inhibited by niacinamide. Therefore, your attempts to increase levels of sirtuins in your skin with a calorie restrictive diet or a cream containing sirtuins may be mostly futile if you use a moisturizer with niacinamide or nicotinic acid.
One question regarding resveratrol is that, if activating sirtuins is the key to great skin, why are niacinamide and nicotinic acid (which inhibit sirtuins) so great for the skin?
Aren’t there cheaper sources of resveratrol?
There are. Avon Ultimate Age Repair Elixir, with double-concentrated Pro-SirtuinSX, is available from Avon.com or your Avon consultant for $54.00, and the technology is also available in lesser concentration in Avon Ultimate Age Repair Night Cream for $34.00. (Full review of Avon Ultimate Age Repair Elixir here.) Although Avon’s Pro-SirtuinSX does not claim to have six times the impact of resveratrol like Estée Lauder’s Resveratrate™, 100% of reported testers on Avon.com have said that it firms the skin and reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles after two weeks of use.
What about the other ingredients in Estée Lauder ReNutriv?
The other ingredients seem to be hydrating (cyclopensiloxane, glyceryl distearate, petrolatum, and butylene glycol, to name a few), with a few antioxidants (grape seed extract, tocopheryl linoleate). There are also South Sea Pearls, which give the skin a temporary iridescent sheen, and calming red & brown Algae. Still, for $250, you could buy the SPF 15 day cream of the most potent antioxidant, CoffeeBerry, Avon Ultimate Age Repair Elixir for night, and still have change towards a state-of-the-art hydrator too for night, like Atopalm MLE Cream, a new moisturizer that, according to the blog of Dr. Leslie Baumann (one of my all-time favorite derms), “includes hydrating fatty acids, ceramides, and cholesterol — the very same substances that make up most of your skin barrier.” In other words, Estée Lauder ReNutriv Ultimate Youth Creme contains little more proven anti-aging ingredients than Resveratrate™, whose potency over the much less expensive Avon Pro-SirtuinSX has not yet been confirmed.
So should I buy Estée Lauder ReNutriv Ultimate Youth Creme?
It depends on how much you want to invest in the idea that activating (actually not inhibiting) sirtuins can prolong the life of your skin’s collagen-producing cells. I personally sit on the fence on this one until more research comes out, because products with niacinamide benefit the skin, even though niacinamide naturally inhibits sirtuins. At any rate, if you want to try this new development, I think Avon Ultimate Age Repair Elixir with double-concentrated Pro-SirtuinSX is probably a better buy for about one-fifth the cost, but again, without studies comparing it to Estée Lauder’s Resveratrate™, it is hard to tell. Product rating: 6/10 (very overpriced, a positive with novel technology with Resveratrate™, but few other anti-aging ingredients)
Coming up tomorrow: Product review of Estée Lauder ReNutriv Ultimate Lifting Creme (yes, that is different…)
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January 29th, 2008
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futurederm |
Uncategorized |
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Olive oil is commonly found in skin care products, with companies claiming olive oil to be a “super antioxidant” that makes skin “smoother and more radiant.” Yet, how potent is olive oil as an antioxidant, and what exactly are the scientifically proven improvements it has for the skin?
Olive oil as anti-carcinogenic
Topical application of extra virgin olive oil has been shown in a 1998 study in Carcinogenesis to inhibit chemically-induced tumor activation in the mouse, and in a 2000 study also in Carcinogenesis to inhibit UVB-induced tumor formation in the mouse. While it has been proposed in the journal The Lancet Oncology that olive oil may protect against cancer because it contains three classes of protective polyphenols (simple phenols, secoridoids, and lignans), it was proposed by Newmark that olive oil has anti-carcinogenic properties due to its natural inclusion of squalene. Whatever the reason, olive oil has been demonstrated to have protective properties against cancerous tumor formation when ingested through foods (such as a Mediterranean diet) and when applied topically. It has been proposed in the journal Toxicology that regular use of olive oil-containing products (food and topical skin care) may protect against UV-induced skin damage, as does use of vitamins C (as L-ascorbic acid) and vitamin E (as tocopheryl acetate).
Olive oil as a protector against aging
Olive oil contains resveratrol, which may promote the activity of sirtuins, agents that are currently suspected to prolong the life of fibroblasts (collagen-producing cells) by turning off gene expression for unnecessary tasks. When the body wants to keep processes going, it produces additional quantities of nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD), a natural electron carrier that binds to sirtuins and inhibits sirtuin activity. When NAD comes in and attempts to bind to sirtuins, resveratrol has been shown by Howitz. et al in 2004 to inhibit this interaction. However, the amount of resveratrol necessary to provide anti-aging effects is unknown. According to Dr. Sinclair of Biomol Research Laboratories in Plymouth Meeting, Pennsylvania, “one glass of wine is enough…within one day of popping the cork,” as resveratrol is highly unstable in the air.
May help dermatitis and psoriasis when used with honey and beeswax
In a 2003 study in Complementary Treatments in Medicine, it was found that twice-daily application of a 1:1:1 mixture of honey, beeswax and olive oil improved symptoms of dermatitis in 8/10 patients and improved psoriasis in 5/8 patients after two weeks. However, as the study was only partially controlled, this may be considered purely speculative.
Delayed barrier function
According to a 2002 study in Acta Paediatrica, it was found that olive oil significantly delayed recovery of barrier function compared with control- or Aquaphor-treated skin. Barrier function may be measured by both noninvasive (surface hydration, transepidermal water loss) and invasive methods (water permeation, niacinamide flux).
Does olive oil irritate the skin?
Olive oil has been reported to cause contact allergy in some individuals, although which component causes olive oil to be irritating could not be found. However, it was proposed in a 1997 study in the journal Contact Dermatitis that olive oil is a very weak irritant in general, but bears relevant irritant capacity when applied to patients with venous insufficiency and associated eczema of the lower extremities.
Does the type of olive oil used matter?
Yes. All of the aforementioned studies used “extra virgin olive oil” (that’s EVOO to you Rachael Ray fans) in their studies. According to Wikipedia, extra virgin olive oil comes from “the first pressing of the olives, contains no more than 0.8% acidity, and is judged to have a superior taste. There can be no refined oil in extra-virgin olive oil.” Unfortunately, a 2007 article in The New Yorker reported that only about 40% of the olive oil sold routinely meets requirements, and it is also impossible to tell which form of olive oil is used in skin care products.
What are some skin care products that contain olive oil?
1. N.V. Perricone Nutrient Face Fortifier ($90.00, Sephora.com).
Contains a high concentration of olive oil primarily for antioxidant benefits, DMAE for facial firming, copper to firm, and lower concentrations of antioxidant green tea and vitamin E. Not a bad product, but very expensive for a product with olive oil as the main ingredient, which has not been shown to significantly improve skin imperfections (try these instead) or been shown to be amongst the most potent antioxidants (like the CoffeeBerry in RevaléSkin). Product rating: 7/10
2. N.V. Perricone Olive Oil Polyphenols Face Hydrator ($70, Sephora.com).
Very similar to the N.V. Perricone Nutrient Face Fortifier, but with more hydrating ingredients and a lower price tag. The DMAE should firm the skin, although, again, this is a high price tag. See above for more information. Product rating: 7/10
3. Olivella Virgin Olive Oil Hand Cream ($10.50, Amazon.com)
Contains a high concentration of olive oil, plus vitamin E. No sunscreen, so it’s best for night. At any rate, a great source of olive oil for the money.
So how does olive oil measure up to other skin care ingredients?
Based on current research, it seems that there are better antioxidants and UV damage protectors to topically apply to your skin than olive oil (like the CoffeeBerry in RevaléSkin) and combinations of antioxidants (in Skinceuticals CE Ferulic, amongst others). However, ingesting olive oil as a part of a healthy, well-balanced diet may have pronounced benefits, as mentioned in the book Olive Oil: Chemistry and Technology. As a result, eat up!
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January 28th, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Antioxidant Treatments, Firming Treatments, Spotlight On... |
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Hands are one of the most visible parts of the body. Yet, hands — and more specifically, the skin on the hands — are often ignored. Here are ten superb treatments to keep your hands looking and feeling great:
Stunning hands start with great skin. Photo courtesy NailTechSecrets.com
Best Hand Cleansers
Most hand soaps contain little more than sodium lauryl sulfate or ammonium lauryl sulfate, and drying alcohols. Even worse, anti-bacterial hand soaps often contain high concentrations of drying ethyl alcohol and “literally draw water out of the skin,” according to Dr. Kenneth Beer, M.D., a West Palm Beach derm in the February 2008 In Style. However, the following cleansers are gentle for the skin. Carry them with you in an inexpensive bottle and lid from ContainerAndPackaging.com (starting at 12 cents each, plus shipping and handling!), and fill up your soap dispensers at home!
A gentle cleanser with just 8 ingredients — three of which are hydrating (not drying) alcohols — Cetaphil has been a dermatologist favorite for years. Just one warning: Cetyl alcohol, a hydrating alcohol, is in high concentration in Cetaphil and is derived from coconut oil, so it may not be appropriate for anyone with coconut allergies.
This cleanser contains a high concentration of petrolatum, which, according to Dr. Beer, “acts like a barrier to prevent moisture from escaping.” It also contains lower concentrations of shea butter and niacinamide, the latter which has been found in independent studies to hydrate, reduce fine lines and wrinkles, reduce the appearance of hyperpigmented spots, red blotchiness, and skin sallowness (yellowing), and increase elasticity. Finally, Olay Ultra Moisture Body Wash rounds out with antioxidant vitamin E and a less potent form of retinol, retinyl palmitate. According to dermatologist Dr. Mary Lupo in the journal Clinics in Dermatology, retinyl palmitate has about one-twentieth the potency of prescription retinoids; considering that retinyl palmitate is the least concentrated ingredient in Olay Ultra Moisture Body Wash, its effects may not be apparent. Still, a great moisturizing wash for your hands!
This body wash is my favorite because it contains a high concentration of soybean oil, which was reported in the British Journal of Dermatology to stimulate the production of collagen, in the journal Skin Pharmacology and Physiology to stimulate hyaluronic acid in human fibroblasts cultured in vitro, in the journal Photochemistry and Photobiology to reduce the number of hair follicles (dermal papillae) on the skin, and in the journal Dermatology to lighten hyperpigmentation after daily use for two weeks. Pretty incredible! Olay Age-Defying Body Wash with VitaNiacin also contains vitamin E, retinyl palmitate, and niacinamide, all in higher concentration than in Olay Ultra Moisture Body Wash with Shea Butter.
Best Daytime Hand Creams
A good rule of thumb is to moisturize and protect your hands frequently during the day. The skin on the hands is susceptible to sun damage, and individuals are far less likely to wear sunblock or sun protective gear on their hands than on their bodies. The following are some great hand creams to carry with you through the day:
Contains hydrating (not drying) alcohols, glycerin, and shea butter to moisturize. It also contains vitamins C and E. The great news is that the combination of vitamin C and vitamin E have been found to synergistically enhance the power of one another, and have been reported by Djerassi et. al. to prevent the formation of carcinogenic nitrosamines (although in different forms of C and E). Vitamin C and vitamin E have also been shown in this 1996 study, amongst others, to enhance the photoprotective effects of sunscreen. The unfortunate news is that the form of vitamin C used in this product is tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, which is a stable form of vitamin C that has not been shown (as of yet) to show all of the properties of L-ascorbic acid (the more unstable form of vitamin C most commonly used in skin care and studies). This 2004 study reported the results of patients’ split-face use of 10% L-ascorbic acid and 7% tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate in combination, and the study yielded improvements in hyperpigmentation over vehicle. Still, more research needs to be done on tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate. At any rate, Bath and Body Works True Blue Spa Love Me Tender SPF 15 Hand Cream is an excellent hydrating hand cream. One personal note: There is a strong citrus scent (I don’t wear this when I am wearing lavender perfume!)
Although marketed as a face cream, this 2.5-floz. product is small enough to carry around in your average handbag, and pretty phenomenal ingredient-wise, with high concentrations of niacinamide to hydrate and reduce the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles and age spots, anti-aging palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 to hydrate and firm the skin a bit, vitamin C (as L-ascorbic acid!) and vitamin E to enhance sun protection, and potent antioxidant green tea. It even hydrates, with a high concentration of glycerin and a lower concentration of dimethicone. One problem is that vitamin C as L-ascorbic acid tends to break down in the presence of heat, light, and moisture, so I would recommend transferring the product into an equally small opaque container.
Although glycolic acid and retinol typically recommended to be used separately and at night, this product combines both with a daytime SPF 15. (For sensitive skins, you may prefer the glycolic acid without the retinol in Neostrata Skin Smoothing Cream SPF 20). The product also contains vitamin C as ascorbic acid, vitamin E as tocopheryl acetate, and retinyl palmitate. One note of interest is that it has been reported in the Journal of Dermatological Surgery that vitamin C and its derivatives should be formulated at a pH under 3.5, while the pH optimal for retinol esterification (i.e., activation) has been reported in the Journal of Investigative Dermatology to be between 5.5-6.0. With that said, the pH for each ingredient in the formulation is most likely suboptimal. Still, the product contains exceptional ingredients, including glycolic acid, which smooths the skin, quickens the rate of cell turnover (which is reduced by up to 7% every ten years), decreases small wrinkles and increases the fibroblast proliferation of collagen. This is a great product, particularly for the money, and a difference in hand appearance should surely be noticed after about a month of use.
Although NIA24 also has a hand cream, this product is better for day because it contains both more active ingredient (5% Pro-NiacinTM) and sun protection. The 5% Pro-NiacinTM in NIA24 Sun Damage Prevention 100% Mineral Sunscreen SPF 30 has been shown to have effects similar to that of niacinamide. NIA24 Sun Damage Prevention 100% Mineral Sunscreen SPF 30 also contains 9.4% micronized Titanium Dioxide and 3.6% Zinc Oxide. Although I would prefer it to be more zinc oxide than titanium dioxide, the product is an excellent way to get the effects of niacin with a sunscreen everyday. One personal note: For the first few applications, I experienced a bit of the “first blush, initial breakout, or dryness” talked about on the NIA24 informational brochure, but my skin became more hydrated (and clear) over time.
Best Nighttime Hand Treatments
Lactic acid is a potent hydrator and in high concentration here. In fact, Dr. Jeffrey Dover, vice president of the American Society of Dermatological Surgery, tells the February InStyle, “Lactic acid draws water up from the dermis to hydrate cells at the surface.” LacHydrin Five is available in stronger form as LacHydrin, a prescription drug FDA approved to treat dry skin. With additional hydrators petrolatum, glycerin and dimethicone, layer on LacHydrin Five at night under cotton gloves and awake to softer, more hydrated skin.
SkinMDNatural contains a reported 93% natural ingredients. The ingredients in SkinMDNatural include soothing aloe, hydrating silicones, vitamin E, antibiotic/anti-inflammatory Arnica Flower Extract and Achillea Millefolium Extract (Yarrow), wound-healing Symphytum Officinale Leaf Extract (Comfrey) Extract and Soothing Chamomile. However, although this product is hydrating, don’t buy it just because it is “natural” - it has been reported in the journal Dermatologic Clinics that there is little or no demonstrated benefit to “natural” products. With that said, based on science alone, SkinMDNatural is still hydrating.
This two-step peel contains ingredients like salicyclic acid, glycolic acid, green tea, retinol, and soy extract to cleanse and refine the skin on your face (and hands). Which brings me to the point, most ingredients you use on your face, you can put on your hands (ask your dermatologist if you are unsure of a certain ingredient), provided that you use a broad-spectrum UVA/UVB sunscreen on your hands regularly (some ingredients, like glycolic acid, make your skin more sensitive to the sun). In fact, it was recommended to me years ago to use the extra creams from my face on my hands, and I have heard that it has worked for others as well. With that said, happy shopping!
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January 27th, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Antioxidant Treatments, Best Products, Dry Skin Treatments, Hand Treatments |
4 comments
According to the February 2008 issue of Elle magzine, dermatologists have been noticing that patients have clearer skin in areas where Botox has been injected. In fact, according to dermatologist Dr. David E. Bank, M.D., “Skin is noticeably clearer in Botox-treated areas.”
Why would Botox make skin look clearer?
Relaxation of the facial muscles may relax oil production as well, as Dr. Anna D. Guanche, M.D., tells Elle, “A relaxed duct doesn’t continually pump out sebum, so glands aren’t stimulated to refill.” Anil Shah, M.D., a facial surgeon, hypothesizes that Botox blocks transmission of acetylcholine, a neurotransmitter that influences oil manufacture. According to the textbook Cosmetic Dermatology, botulinum toxin has three domains: the binding domain, the translocation domain, and the enzymatic domain. The binding domain that binds to the cell; once inside the endosome, the toxin’s translocation domain changes with the acidic environment, so that a chain of the toxin crosses the endosome membrane and enters the cytosol. There, the enzymatic domain of the toxin cleaves a protein in the SNARE complex that prevents the release of acetylcholine. And, less acetylcholine leaves, as Shah says, less oil manufacture. Further, as Shah elaborates, “With less sebum (oil), bacteria can’t thrive within the pore and cause inflammation.”
How much is it, and how long does it last?
According to BotoxFAQs.com, Botox injections cost between $350-$550 per injection. Results can occur in as little as 24 hours, according to Elle, and can last for approximately four months.
Are there any downfalls?
According to Dr. Fredric Brandt, M.D., who was reported in the November 2007 issue of Allure magazine to be the nation’s largest consumer of Botox, there is concern about using Botox all over the face, rather than in selected areas. Brandt tells Elle, “I’m still concerned that the toxin could penetrate deeper and trigger overall facial weakening.” In addition, Botox for acne may not be advisable for the mouth region and below, as Dr. Leslie Baumann, M.D. writes in Cosmetic Dermatology, “Botulinum toxin has also been used to treat the lower one-third of the face; however, this area has an increased incidence of side effects…and should only be treated by experienced botulinum toxin users.”
So is this a sound treatment?
From what has been researched so far, for now, if you experience acne in the top 2/3 of your face, you may wish to talk to your dermatologist about using botulism toxin as a possible form of treatment. However, keep in mind that treatment all over your face may weaken facial muscles, and also keep in mind that it is a risk to treat acne in the lower 1/3 of your face with Botox. See your doctor with any concerns.
What are some additional acne treatments?
For more on acne formation and over-the-counter drugstore treatments for acne, please visit this post.
For more on the PPx vacuum system for acne, please visit this post.
I have also reviewed the Obagi Clenziderm M.D. Acne Therapeutic System in this post.
Please let me know if there are more acne treatments you would like to see reviewed!
Next up: The Ten Best Hand Cream Treatments!
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January 26th, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Acne Treatments |
3 comments
RevaléSkin contains the powerful antioxidant CoffeeBerry®, the most potent antioxidant known to date. RevaléSkin products contain between 0.1 and 1% CoffeeBerry® and, according to a company statement, “have been clinically proven to improve overall skin fitness by enhancing skin tone, diminishing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, as well as skin pigmentation from sun exposure and decreasing some signs of skin inflammation in as little as three weeks.” Manufactured by Stiefel Laboratories, RevaléSkin is available for purchase from aesthetic physicians nationwide in the U.S., as well as from SkincareRx.com.
Where does CoffeeBerry come from?
CoffeeBerry® is a natural ingredient, derived from the coffee cherry of the Coffea arabica plant when it is still green and “sub-ripe.” CoffeeBerry Extract contains an extremely high concentration of polyphenols, which serve as potent antioxidants (Baumann).
Why is CoffeeBerry® such a potent antioxidant?
According to Jim Hartman, senior vice president of U.S. sales and marketing for Stiefel Laboratories, “CoffeeBerry is abundant in four powerful polyphenol antioxidants, chlorogenic acid (the most notable of the antioxidants), condensed proanthocyanidins, quinic acid and ferulic acid, which makes the CoffeeBerry even more potent than such robust antioxidants as green tea, pomegranataes, blueberries, vitamin C and vitamin E.” In fact, CoffeeBerry® outperforms even the average green tea extract by 145% on the U.S. Department of Agriculture’s Oxygen Radical Absorbance Capacity (ORAC) scale, the standard measurement for antioxidant strength. In specific, CoffeeBerry® has an ORAC score of 15000 minimum, green tea 10000-11000, fruits 104-5770, and vegetables 150-1770, according to a Stiefel Laboratories “RevaléSkin FAQ” statement.
One note of curiosity: although CoffeeBerry® has been shown to have the highest ORAC score of any single antioxidant, I would be curious to see research comparing the efficacy of CoffeeBerry® to combinations of antioxidants found in skin care treatments. In particular, I would be interested in a comparison of the antioxidant capacity of CoffeeBerry® over time to network antioxidants (vitamin C, E, glutathione, lipoic acid and coenzyme Q10), which work together to reinforce the power of one another.
How effective is RevaléSkin in fighting fine lines and wrinkles?
As reported in the journal Dermatologic Therapy, in clinical trials sponsored by Stiefel and conducted by David McDaniels, M.D., 30 patients with actinic damage used a skin care system consisting of 0.1% CoffeeBerry® cleanser, and 1% CoffeeBerry® day and night creams. Twenty patients had full face application of the test products, whereas ten patients used the product on only half the face and vehicle on the other half. In split-face patients the CoffeeBerry® system resulted in a statistically significant improvement in fine lines, wrinkles, pigmentation, and overall appearance when compared to vehicle. Although no studies have compared the efficacy of the CoffeeBerry® system to retinoids, peptides, and other anti-aging ingredients, studies are now looking at the use of the RevaléSkin antioxidant system in conjunction with retinoids and intense pulsed-light treatments to fight signs of aging.
How effective is the RevaleSkin cleanser?
Of the three products, the RevaleSkin cleanser is my least favorite. Containing 0.1% CoffeeBerry® extract, the product provides a similar concentration of antioxidant grapefruit extract, a gentle cleanse…and not much else. Considering that ten times as much CoffeeBerry® extract is available in the RevaleSkin Day Cream and Night Cream, it may be wise to save the money here on the cleanser and go with a cheaper gentle cleanser rich in another anti-aging ingredient, like the soy in Aveeno Positively Radiant Cleanser ($18.07 for three, Amazon.com), or a gentle cleanser like Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser ($20.26 for two, Amazon.com). At any rate, still a great, gentle cleanser with antioxidants. Product rating: 7.5/10
Is RevaléSkin Day Cream a great product?
The RevaléSkin Day Cream takes no chances, containing a full 1.0% CoffeeBerry® extract as a potent antioxidant to improve fine lines, wrinkles, pigmentation, and overall appearance. The cream also contains a fairly high concentration of soy, which has antioxidant and inflammatory properties, stimulates the production of collagen and hyaluronic acid in human fibroblasts cultured in vitro, and reduces the number of hair follicles (dermal papillae) on the skin. As additional antioxidants to protect against future UV damage, vitamin E as tocopheryl acetate and grapefruit seed extract are also included.
To hydrate, RevaléSkin Day Cream features a plethora of light favorites, including glycerin, dimethicone, urea, sodium hyaluronate, phospholipids and cholesterol.
To protect against future damage, RevaléSkin Day Cream also features an SPF 15, broad-spectrum (UVA/UVB) combination of 7.5% octinoxate and 4.0% oxybenzone. This is my least favorite part of the product, as oxybenzone and octinoxate do not block as full a range of UV rays as other sunscreens, including combinations of oxybenzone and avobenzone (as in Helioplex, found in Neutrogena sunscreens), or avobenzone and ecamsule (as in LaRoche-Posay Anthelios SX). At any rate, RevaléSkin Day Cream is certainly a superior anti-aging moisturizer and one of my favorites to date (particularly when used under a better form of sunscreen). Product rating: 9/10
How good is the RevaléSkin Night Cream?
RevaléSkin Night Cream is just as good as RevaléSkin Day Cream. While both contain a full 1.0% CoffeeBerry® extract, vitamin E as tocopheryl acetate and grapefruit extract, just as RevaléSkin Day Cream loses a point for not including a better form of sunscreen, RevaléSkin Night Cream gets a deduction for not including the soy extract found in RevaléSkin Day Cream. At any rate, RevaléSkin Night Cream is certainly a great anti-aging product, and one of the best antioxidant treatments to date.
Personal Comments
Although I largely try to keep personal opinions out of this blog, I currently am using a night regime of a thin layer of Green Cream Level 6 (a retinol cream) with RevaléSkin Night Cream over it, and I have noticed a marked improvement in my skin in just two weeks, even though full improvement with skin care products shouldn’t be noticed for about a month. (And, if you are wondering, in the morning, I am currently using Skinceuticals CE Ferulic under NIA24 Physical Sunscreen).
Overall Opinions
RevaléSkin with CoffeeBerry® extract is one of the greatest antioxidant, anti-aging treatments out there. Although I recommend the RevaléSkin Day Cream [with a different potent sunscreen] and RevaléSkin Night Cream more than the RevaleSkin cleanser, all three have been shown in clinical trials to work well in conjunction against fine lines, wrinkles, pigmentation, and overall appearance. Despite its relatively high cost (it’s not drugstore-priced!), I give the line a very solid, enthusiastic 9/10.
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January 25th, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Antioxidant Treatments, Best Products |
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With so many skin care gift sets out there for Valentine’s Day, why not choose something that benefits the skin of your sweetie, a friend, or even yourself? After reviewing dozens of products, I have found the ten best products that are skin-beneficial and Valentine-worthy…(No, not cookies, they were just pretty )
Unlike most fragrances and fragranced lotions, which are loaded with low-molecular weight alcohols and only emollients (if you’re lucky), Lavanila Laboratories products contain antioxidants goji berry and kakadu plum. Although the antioxidant capacities of these ingredients have not been compared to other known antioxidants (like vitamin E, idebenone or coffee berry), it is still better than the zero antioxidant capacity of most perfumed sprays and lotions. Lavanila Laboratories products further impress with soothing willowherb, hydrating olive leaf, and pure essential oils rather than low-molecular weight, drying alcohols. Available in pure vanilla, vanilla grapefruit, and vanilla blossom, at least one of these fragrances has to appease your nose as well as it takes care of your skin.
A woman’s fragrance should be distinctive, so what better gift than to design a fragrance exclusively for her? For $100, Esens.com enables you to work with Kathleen Dreier, an experienced perfumer to design 0.25 oz (a reported nine-to-twelve month supply) of a custom, alcohol-free scent that captures her essence. If that price is too steep for you, ParfumsRally.com offers a service for $39 where it will blend your choices of 80+ fragrance notes to customize your own fragrance. For a moisturizer to use with the customized fragrance, choose a fragrance-free drugstore lotion, like Vaseline Intensive Care Lotion for Dry Skin ($20.25 for three, Amazon.com), which contains antioxidant and collagen/hyaluronic-acid producing soy extract, anti-aging retinyl palmitate, antioxidant vitamin E, and numerous hydrators (glycerin, petrolatum, dimethicone, lactic acid, to name a few). If you know uneven skin tone or age spots on the body are more of a concern, Olay Quench Body Lotion for Normal to Dry Skin ($18.64 for two, Amazon.com) contains a high concentration of niacinamide, which is also hydrating. Unfortunately, the Olay Quench lotion leaves a light trace of a scent, so be careful. One further caveat: The drugstore bottles aren’t all that presentable as gifts, so you may want to transfer the lotion into a stylish opaque lotion dispenser, like this one from Bed Bath and Beyond.
As if “Kiss Me” in the name were not enough, this lip scrub also contains a high concentration of fructose to gently exfoliate the lips, and sunflower seed oil, olive oil, sweet almond oil, mango seed butter, mineral oil, and shea butter to hydrate. Two things to keep in mind: One, Philosophy Kiss Me Exfoliating Lip Scrub is a lip treatment without sunscreen, so apply it at night and use a lip treatment with SPF during the day. Two, Philosophy Kiss Me Exfoliating Lip Scrub contains a lot of oils, so you may want to rub it on and then gently wipe it off with a soft washcloth before applying lipstick. (Otherwise, your lipstick will not stay on for as long). Other than that, though, a great hydrating sugar scrub for the lips!
4. Antioxidant-rich dark chocolate
Although all dark chocolate contains a fairly high concentration of antioxidant cocoa, Dove Dark ($25.28 for 48 bars, Amazon.com) made by Mars, Inc., contains Cocoapro cocoa, a proprietary, specially processed cocoa that contains superhigh levels of flavanols, according to Prevention magazine. One study featured in the magazine mentioned that researchers at the University of California, Davis compared the effects of 11/3 oz of high-flavanol Dove Dark chocolate with the same amount of low-flavanol dark chocolate on 10 healthy people. They found that only the Dove Dark had heart-healthy benefits: It reduced LDL oxidation and boosted antioxidant levels and HDL concentrations in the blood. Other studies have shown that the higher the Cocoapro “dose,” the higher the levels of antioxidants in the blood and the less LDL oxidation. Just watch your intake: in addition to containing fats, all chocolate contains sugar, which can add to advanced glycation endproduct formation, which, amongst other things, can harden collagen in the skin, giving the skin an overall aged appearance before its time. P.S.: Dipping fresh strawberries into melted Dove Dark makes for a tasty, vitamin C-and-antioxidant-rich treat!
Not only is this product distinctly (and I think beautifully) scented, but it contains a plethora of antioxidants (white tea, sweet orange, grape seed) and hydrators (butylene glycol, squalane, glycerin, urea, dimethicone, shea butter and sodium hyaluronate, to name a few). Slather it on after a shower to lock moisture into the skin, or put it on thickly under cotton pajamas to wake up with softer skin (unless your skin tends to break out; ask your dermatologist if you have concerns). Plus, there is free standard shipping from Origins until January 27, 2008.
Featured in this month’s In Style magazine, Spongeables are heart-shaped hypoallergenic sponges with natural glycerin and olive oil-based soap built in. Lasting for up to 10 showers, Spongeables are great to take along on vacations (most soaps provided can be drying). Although there are more moisturizing soaps available for less money (a favorite is Olay Ultra Moisture Body Wash, which contains petrolatum, niacinamide and small amounts of vitamin E and vitamin A), Spongeables are perfect little gifts for friends or the traveler in you. (One caveat: they have scents like “Peony Passion”, so you may not want to buy one for the man in your life.)
Über-romantic when paired with satin sheets (but this isn’t that kind of blog, haha), satin pillowcases help keep creases from forming on skin in the morning.
Sweet almond oil is the massage oil most commonly used by the professional masseuse, for it absorbs into the skin at a pleasant speed and hydrates without becoming too greasy. Because of the almonds used in the manufacturing process, sweet almond oil is not to be used on or by individuals with nut allergies. A common alternative for those with nut allergies is apricot kernel oil, which can be found in Nature’s Alchemy Apricot Kernel Oil 100% Pure ($16.00 for four, Amazon.com). Both sweet almond oil and Kama Sutra Massage Oil contain vitamin E, a potent antioxidant. In addition, both massage oils have a scent, so if you choose to light candles, you may wish to go with the non-scented variety. An excellent assortment of unscented soy candles is available from Lizzie Candles and Soap.
