Product Review: Which OTC Retinol Treatment is the Best?
Above: The mechanism of action of retinoids. Source: Nature.
Retinoids are one of the most effective ingredients in skin care products today, running the gamut from increasing collagen production to decreasing the appearance of wrinkles. Although this 2001 study in the journal Clinics in Dermatology found over-the-counter retinol is 20 times less potent than prescription retinoic acid in the skin, over-the-counter retinol use is still recommended, as Dr. Ranella Hirsch, president-elect of the American Society of Dermatologic Surgeons says in the December 2007 issue of Allure magazine: “We have beautiful, profound data that shows if you use [retinoids] for 20 years, you’re going to look a lot better than someone who doesn’t.”
Some Notes About Retinol…
According to experts cited in this article, retinol should be used at night only, in small quantity (a pea-size amount to make a thin layer on your face) after cleansing, and NOT in conjunction with alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs). Retinol also should be used in conjunction with sunscreen every morning, as retinoids/retinol make your skin more photosensitive (sensitive to the sun). Finally, retinol may cause redness, flaking/peeling, and possibly stinging at first, and most experts recommend using retinol products once every 2-3 nights at first for the first 2-3 weeks. The negative effects should be short-term as the skin acclimates to retinol, but if they worsen, the product may not be right for your skin. If ever in question, ask your dermatologist! Now onto the products…
Skinceuticals Retinol 0.5 ($35.70, Amazon.com)
Overall Rating: 9/10 (great product)
What an expert says: According to Paula Begoun, the Cosmetics Cop: “Because it contains a significant amount of retinol, the claims you can bank on are building collagen and stimulating cell regeneration…Fortunately, this water-and-silicone-based serum does contain many other beneficial ingredients for healthy skin, including ceramides, cholesterol, lecithin, antioxidants, and the anti-irritant bisabolol. The opaque bottle with pump applicator helps maintain the stability of the retinol, which is a prerequisite for products with this ingredient.” Begoun gives a similar review for Skinceuticals Retinol 1.0, with twice the concentration of retinol.
Based on ingredients alone: On the plus side, the formulation contains both vitamin C (as ascorbic acid) and vitamin E (as tocopherol acetate), which are network antioxidants that synergistically enhance the power of one another, increasing sun protection and reducing free radical damage by impede or slowing the free radical chain reaction. On the down side, while this product says it includes 0.5% pure retinol, only retinyl palmitate (retinol combined with a fatty acid) is listed in the ingredients. Correction from L’Oréal/Skinceuticals representative Mary Mills Kennedy: The ingredients list on Amazon.com is incorrect, and Skinceuticals 0.5 and 1.0 does in fact contain retinol. I apologize – my source (Amazon.com) was incorrect, and I have contacted Amazon about their error. A new post about Skinceuticals 0.5 and 1.0 is available here. According to this 1997 study in the Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 0.6% retinyl palmitate is less effective in penetrating human skin than 0.025% retinol (the concentration similar to that found in many other over-the-counter skincare formulations). However, even though retinyl palmitate is less potent than retinol, it has been shown to exhibit the collagen-stimulating, smoothing, and wrinkle-reducing properties of retinol over time, and has also been shown to be less irritating.
Ingredients: Water, Dihydroxyacetone, Octyl Palmitate, Glycerin, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Oil, Erythrulose, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetyl Alcohol, Stearic Acid, Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate, Tocopherol Acetate, Retinyl Palmitate <–Retinol, Cholecalciferol, Assorbic Acid, Dimethicone, DEA-Cetyl Phosphate, Polyacrylamide, Isoparaffin C 13-14, Laureth-7, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Butylparaben, Ethylparaben, Propylparaben, Fragrance
Philosophy Help Me Retinol Night Treatment ($45.00, Amazon.com)
Overall Rating: 8/10 (great product with retinol, but only one network antioxidant, and not good for oily skin or skin prone to breakouts)
What the experts say: According to Dr. Leslie Baumann, Director of Cosmetic Dermatology at the University of Miami, “Philosophy Help Me retinol night treatment is less potent than a prescription retinoid but can diminish fine lines just as effectively over time.” Unfortunately, Begoun notes that the product should only be used normal to very dry skin, because it contains a fairly high concentration of emulsifying wax.
Based on ingredients alone: Contains retinol (rather than less penetrating retinyl palmitate) and tocopherol acetate (vitamin E), a potent antioxidant, along with hydrating fatty acids, emulsifying wax, glycerin, and dimethicone.
Ingredients in Philosophy Help Me Retinol Night Treatment (courtesy Sephora.com): Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Emulsfying Wax, Glycerin, C10-30 Cholesterol/Lanosterol Esters, Cetyl Ricinoleate, Cetyl Alcohol, Dimethicone, Benzyl Alcohol, Cyclomethicone, Retinol, Tocopherol Acetate, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Acrylates Copolymer, Stearic Acid, PEG-10 Soya Sterol, Phenoxyethanol, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Methylparaben, Triethanolamine, Disodium EDTA, Bisabolol, BHT.
Neutrogena Healthy Skin Original Formula ($14.17, Amazon.com)
Overall Rating: 10/10 (great product with retinol, plus green tea in high concentration and two forms of vitamin E in low concentration)
What an expert says: According to dermatologist Dr. Mary Lupo in the October 2007 issue of Allure magazine: “With regular use, Neutrogena Healthy Skin Anti-Wrinkle Cream improves skin’s brightness, color, and texture, and softens existing lines and crepiness. If you start using it in your twenties, before you see these changes, you could push them off further.”
Based on ingredients alone: Neutrogena Healthy Skin Anti-Wrinkle Cream contains a better form of retinol than Skinceuticals Retinol 0.5 and a high concentration of antioxidant green tea for a lower price than either Skinceuticals Retinol 0.5 or Philosophy Help Me Retinol Night Treatment. Unfortunately, it does not contain network antioxidants that reinforce the power of one another like Skinceuticals Retinol 0.5, but it still contains an impressive concentration of antioxidant green tea.
Ingredients in Neutrogena Healthy Skin Anti-Wrinkle Cream: Purified Water, C12-C15 Alkyl Benzoate, Glycerin, Cetyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Camellia Oleifera Extract, Octyl Hydroxystearate, Dimethicone, Retinol, Panthenol, Disodium EDTA, Tocopherol, Cetearyl Glucoside, Tocopheryl Acetate, Polysorbate 20, Triethanolamine, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Diazolidinyl Urea, BHT, Carbomer.
And the Winner is…
Thankfully, the cheapest product, Neutrogena Healthy Skin Anti-Wrinkle Cream, for having a better form of retinol than Skinceuticals Retinol 0.5 and for being suitable for most skin types, unlike Philosophy Help Me Retinol Night Treatment, with a high concentration of emulsifying wax. Keep in mind that the effects of retinoids are best with a prescription from your dermatologist. At any rate, if you are in the market for a retinol over-the-counter cream, happy shopping! 
*Update January 8, 2008: Thank you to Mary Mills Kennedy from L’Oréal/Skinceuticals. I was unaware that the ingredients information at Amazon.com was incorrect for Skinceuticals Retinol 0.5, and I have e-mailed Amazon.com to make them aware of this error. Please visit this new page for more information on Skinceuticals Retinol 0.5 and 1.0.
Nicki,
I am truly impressed with your blog and I am always happy to see retinoids put on the frontline of skin care (whether that is OTC or prescription).
However, I think this is not a great list to use for OTC retinol products.
Without sounding boastful, we were the first to really promote retinol as a viable alternative to prescription strength retinoids back in 2000. The only other company even producing a retinol in our concentration was TxSystems which only went up to .6% retinol. We were absolutely the first to go over that amount.
I think there are a lot better representation of retinols on the market (including our own Green Cream). Since we have introduced our product I have come to respect Replenix, Young Pharmaceuticals, LaRoche Posay, SkinMedica, and Vivant as very good retinol products. They all have concentrations over .2% and garner great results. Neutrogena and Philosophy both have less than .2%
The last thing I would point out is that concentration of retinol should be the second consideration when considering a OTC retinoid. Zoe Draelos clearly states that formulation plays anywhere from a 50% to 70% role in determining the efficacy of any active ingredient. I feel that it is even more important when looking a retinoid.
Please don’t think I am being critical because I’m not. We feel that any message that highlights retinoids as the gold standard in skincare is a good message. I’m only asking that you consider other products when comparing retinol products.
I’m not asking that you publish my comments or not. My real intention was to get a private message to you and I didn’t know how to do that. In no way am I trying to push my product or other products to your readers.
Sincerely,
Kevin Katechis
Advanced Skin Technology
Comment by Kevin Katechis | January 7, 2008
[...] days ago, I wrote a blog post about three great retinol creams, including Skinceuticals Retinol 0.5 ($41.95, SkincareRx.com). Unfortunately, there was an error on [...]
Pingback by Product Review: Skinceuticals Retinol 0.5 « FutureDerm.com | January 9, 2008
What a surprise! I googled for some information, and found your blog. It’s impressive! I am impressed with your studies and your passion.
I have bookmarked your site.
I have a question though, I just purchased the Affirm X2 Retinol, but I am currently using glycolic acid. Can these two products be used alternatly? Thank you!
Comment by S | January 10, 2008
Nice site. Very informative. I too have bookmarked it and will be returning.
Comment by miami man | January 11, 2008
[...] I have been blogging about retinol creams a lot, and for good reason. As Jenny Bailly, a freelance beauty writer writes in the December 2007 [...]
Pingback by Product Review: Green Cream - High Potency Retinol « FutureDerm.com | January 23, 2008
[...] treatments. However, if you are interested in over-the-counter retinol treatments, I love Neutrogena Healthy Skin and Philosophy Help Me Retinol with <0.025% retinol, Skinceuticals Retinol 0.5 or Skinceuticals Retinol 1.0 with 0.5% and 1.0% [...]
Pingback by How Can I Rebuild Collagen? - FutureDerm.com | March 8, 2008
Is Retinol the same as the Retin A cream I’m using?
Comment by what | April 16, 2008
Nikki,
I have to completely agree with you about the Neutrogena Healthy Skin product…after trying prescription strength retin a from my derm. doc., I much prefer the Neutrogena! I actually put it on before my makeup in the a.m., and my 40 year old skin is noticeably brighter and smoother after just one week of use. Thanks for the affirmation!
Stacey
Comment by Stacey | September 13, 2008
Dear Nicki
Thank you for the great review. I always read your reviews and find them very helpful. I just wanted to know how your previously reviewed Green Cream compares with the products above. Eversince your review of that cream I added it to my medspa skincare line and my patients love it. I want to know if it is superior to Neutrogena or not since there is a significant price difference. Thanks again.
Ramin
Comment by Ramin Ahmadi MD | December 12, 2008
Hi Dr. Ahmadi,
“Off the record,” an estimate of the amount of retinol in Neutrogena Healthy Skin is 0.025%; of course, Johnson & Johnson does not disclose actual concentrations to the public, so I cannot say this with absolute certainty. With that said, Green Cream runs 0.6% (with Level 6) and 0.9% (with Level 9). I hope that this helped you!
Sincerely,
Nicki
Comment by futurederm | December 19, 2008
Dear Nicki,
Congrats on med school. I’m sure you’ll make a fine dermatologist. Combining research with real world experience is key.
I notice that you reference Paula Begoun in the few posts that I have read, but I dont see her antioxidant serum reviewed here. It does contain retinol as well as antioxidants. I would be curious as to your opinion.
Thanks,
Wendee
Comment by Wendee B | February 18, 2009
I have started using Help Me by Philosophy and it is truly the best. If you have sensitive skin, like me this is the product for you. Every other retinol treatment has irritated my skin and neutrogena was HORRIBLE to my sensitive skin.
Comment by Anna M | February 20, 2009
Paula Begoun’s website recommends many of the retinol products you do, but also Alpha Hydrox’s Retinol ResQ. She says that it’s nearly identical to Philosophy’s retinol product for a third the price.
Comment by JakeK | April 16, 2009
If boht a cream product and a serum product contain the same effective ingredient, like retinol, which kind of product you will recommend? I am wondering cream or serum can reach a better result?
Comment by SharleneH | April 19, 2009
Hi! This is an amazing post and blog!
I need to questions if the ingredients in Neutrogena Healthy Skin Anti-Wrinkle Cream have changed. In Peru, where I leave, the ingredients are not the same neather the order of them.
For example, I can read a box of Neutrogena Healthy Skin Anti-Wrinkle which Retinol was one of the last ingredients.
I do not what to think… Thanks.
Comment by Kathy | April 22, 2009
So which product has the most retinoid? I am confused
Comment by Margaret Smith | April 28, 2009
what is the difference between Neutrogena Healthy Skin Anti-Wrinkle Cream and their Healthy Skin Anti-Wrinkle Intensive Night Cream in terms of anti-aging abilities?
Comment by p-ham | April 29, 2009
I just saw a infomercial on Natural Advantage. Can you speak to this system at all? It is a cleanser, daily spf moisturizer and evening retinol treatment. At about 30 bucks for a month supply, I wonder how this really works??
Thanks-
Chris
Comment by Chris Wold | May 17, 2009
Nicki,
What a great review! Could you please comment on Neutrogena Ageless Intensives line? They have an eye cream, serum, night cream and day cream (this last one contains SPF 20).
Being a face cream junkie, I bought the whole line and started using it right away. I was never told to start out slowly using the creams, and didn’t know not to use the serum and night cream together at the same time. So, long story short, my face is now flaky, dry, patchy and sensitive to the touch. Where I had redness, my face now looks sunburnt/brownish and I assume that will flake off soon. Needless to say, I’m laying off the creams for a while until my skin heals. But since all of the blogs say that you can get really great results from this Neutrogena line, once my skin heals I’m going to try the line again – but this time much more slowly.
Do you think this is ok to do to my skin? Or should I just toss the Neutrogena and decide this line isn’t for me?
Thanks,
S
Comment by Steph | May 22, 2009
Dear S.,
I am not familiar with the Neutrogena Ageless Intensives lines yet…I’ll have to put it on my list of products to potentially review, thanks!
It sounds like your skin reacted poorly to the retinol in the product. I think that you would be benefited best to talk to your dermatologist about this product and your use of retinol in general. In general, I have heard skin care experts advise starting a retinol product with a 1/2 dose every other night for the first 2 weeks, then a 1/2 dose every night for the next 2 weeks, and then a full dose every other night for the next 2 weeks, and then, finally, full dose. However, some patients have skin that is so sensitive that they cannot use retinol at all.
Hope that this helps you -
-Nicki
Comment by futurederm | May 26, 2009
Hi Nikki,
Many people seem to have asked this question on various sites including here, but I am yet to find a solid answer… perhaps you can help?
We all know that we are not supposed to use AHA’s and retinoids together… but
1. does that mean it is ok to use them on alternate nights?
2. How would you recommend using both of these products in a regular skincare routine?
Others have asked about leaving 30mins in between applying each, and others have asked about using retinoids for 4 weeks then one week of AHA’s…. seems to be a lot of confusion on the best method of using both products.
Your advice?
Thanks so much.
Emma
Comment by Emma | June 17, 2009
I love all the information posted!
Having said that, I don’t want to sound redundant but how do I alternate the use of all these products?
I got the Neutrogena Retinol product and Olay regenerist night cream and absolutely love them and see great results.. I used to use the AHA but now I feel overwhelmed on how to juggle all these.
Do you have a routine that you would recommend?
Comment by HYoung | June 18, 2009