Quick Question: What Helps the Skin More — Eating or Topically Applying a Beneficial Ingredient?

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In the past, I have received several e-mails asking if it was better to ingest or topically apply beneficial ingredients to the skin. While I never knew the answer, I am proud to now report that this new study in The Journal of Skin Pharmacology and Physiology suggests that eating an ingredient is more beneficial than topically applying it. However, the study further suggests that a combination of eating and topically applying ingredients to the skin may be most beneficial.

The Actual Study

In the study, conducted by Mavi Cosmetics in Italy, 40 women were split into four groups. The first group was given a supplement called FloraGlo Lutein with antioxidants (10 mg lutein and 0.6 zeaxanthin). The second group was given a topical cream with lutein and zeaxanthin. The third group was given both the supplement and the topical cream. The fourth and final group was given placebo.

After 12 weeks, it was found that either the oral supplement or the cream improved skin elasticity, hydration, and protection against sun damage. However, the combination of oral and topical formulations boosted numbers the most — skin hydration by 60 percent and protection against sunburn by 20 percent.

Some Combinations of Beneficial Ingredients in Supplements and Topical Creams

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Green Tea

Green tea has been demonstrated to have potent antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-carcinogenic and photoprotective properties. (For more on green tea, please read my blog post on green tea, or this comprehensive summary of research conducted on green tea here.) Green tea is available as a beverage or a supplement by numerous brands; however, one concern in the past has always been the amount of caffeine necessary to ingest enough beneficial EGCG. Luckily, there is Dr. Brandt Skincare Anti-Oxidant Water Booster ($35, Sephora.com), in which one dropper full claims to deliver the benefits of 15 cups of green tea without the caffeine. A very concentrated source of green tea extract in a topical treatment is TOPIX Replenix Serum ($46.25, 4Derm.com) which contains 90% beneficial green tea polyphenols as the second ingredient (behind water).

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Pomegranate

Pomegranate is an excellent ingredient, which does everything from inhibiting UVA-and UVB-damage to inhibiting collagen degradation to activating procollagen synthesis. (For more, read yesterday’s blog post on pomegranate.) Pomegranate is available as an ingredient in the oral supplement Murad PomphenolR Sunguard Dietary Supplement ($35.00, Murad.com) and may be enhanced with topical application in Murad Energizing Pomegranate Moisturizer SPF 15 ($32.00, Murad.com).

What are some foods that are rich in antioxidant content?

In this exciting 2006 study by the American Botanical Council, the ORAC (oxygen radical absorbance capacity) score of 27 vegetables were compared, and artichokes, beetroot, cabbage, broccoli, red chicory, red chili, and yellow pepper had the highest ORAC score. For more on foods and food preparation that are beneficial for your skin, please read this blog post.

How can I get FloraGlo Lutein?

As Pierfrancesco Morganti, professor of applied cosmetic dermatology at the University of Naples and a researcher at Mavi Cosmetics tells Allure in November 2007, “Though FloraGlo Lutein is not yet available, some other skin creams contain one or both ingredients and may be similarly effective.” He further recommends eating “leafy green vegetables and yellow and orange fruits,” which are sources of lutein and zeazanthin.

As A Result…

To get the most out of your skincare regime, it seems that a combination of oral supplements and topical formulations is best. Always remember: the skin is a sign of wellness, so what’s good for your health is ultimately good for your skin. If you have concerns, be sure you consult a physician! :-)

9 thoughts on “Quick Question: What Helps the Skin More — Eating or Topically Applying a Beneficial Ingredient?

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  4. I have been drinking the Dr. Brandt drops 1-2X a day for almost 2 years now. I can honestly say I wouldn’t be without them. The few times I have been without them, I noticed that my skin was lacking in radiance and firmness. I recommend them for the sheer fact you are getting anti-oxidants even if you aren’t seeing an exterior result. I think they are going to make a difference as I age.

  5. Thank you! Your article answered my previous question if it’s better to eat or apply your antioxidants. Of course, it’s much better to do both.

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  8. Interesting preliminary study but don’t you think it is a bit premature to make conclusions from a study involving 40 people who were split into 4 groups of 10?

    Also, I don’t have the study to read but did they control the diets of the participants over the 12 week period? With such a small number it seems quite possible that there were significant dietary differences which could impact the results.

  9. Hi Perry -

    You’re right, and normally I wouldn’t put much stock into a study with so few participants and so many potential confounding variables, but the fact of the matter is, it just makes sense to me. Transdermally, there are a number of factors that could make an ingredient in a skin care formulation less potent or effective, including its processing, packaging method, incorrect pH with the other ingredients, and permissibility through the stratum corneum. However, when you ingest a beneficial ingredient, there’s not much to stop proper absorption, unless you’re eating them with a huge amount of other foods or have colitis or something like that. Bottom line: I cite this study because it supports what I’ve always secretly thought, but you’re right – I should find better support.

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