Idebenone is a potent antioxidant that is included in a variety of Elizabeth Arden (and affiliates) products, including the new Prevage Anti-Aging Night Cream ($125.00, Amazon.com), as well as in a concentration of 1% in PrevageMD (available from selected physicians’ offices). According to the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, idebenone is a stable analog of the antioxidant coenzyme Q10 that neutralizes free radicals and protects the skin from UV-induced reactive oxidative species. For more information on this antioxidant powerhouse, read on.
Is idebenone effective against signs of aging?
Yes. According to a 2005 double-blind study in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, forty-one female subjects, aged 30-65, with moderate photodamaged skin used creams with either 0.5% or 1.0% idebenone. After six weeks’ use of the 1.0% idebenone formula, a 26% reduction in skin roughness/dryness was observed, a 37% increase in skin hydration, a 29% reduction in fine lines/wrinkles, and a 33% improvement in overall global assessment of photodamaged skin. For the 0.5% idebenone formulation, a 23% reduction in skin roughness/dryness was observed, a 37% increase in skin hydration, a 27% reduction in fine lines/wrinkles, and a 30% improvement in overall global assessment of photodamaged skin. Measurements taken included evaluation by a blinded grader expert and electrical gradient measurements.
How does the antioxidant capacity of idebenone compare to that of other antioxidants?
Idebenone has significant strength amongst antioxidants, but it is not the most potent antioxidant available.
Idebenone is more effective as at reducing oxidative stress than vitamin E, kinetin, ubiquinone, vitamin C, and lipoic acid, according to a 2007 study in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology,
Unfortunately, according to a second 2007 study in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, idebenone is less effective at reducing directly scavenging free radicals and in protecting cells from UV-induced reactive oxidative species than L-ergothioneine (EGT), a stable antioxidant found in food plants as well as in animal tissue. L-ergothioniene is available in Remergent Skin Clarifying Skin Brightener ($65.00, Remergent.com). In addition, according to a 2007 review in Dermatologic Therapy, Coffeeberry has been reported to be the most potent antioxidant as measured by the ORAC (oxygen radical absorbance score). CoffeeBerry is available in RevaléSkin products ($110.00 each, RevaleSkin.com).
However, despite the fact that there are more potent antioxidants, idebenone still has been touted for its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties as a part of a daily skin care regime, according to a 2008 report in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology.
Overall…
An excellent antioxidant, although there are more potent antioxidants currently out there on the skin care market, such as EGT and Coffeeberry. At any rate, idebenone has proven effective in treating skin roughness, restoring hydration to the skin, and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles somewhat, in addition to its potent antioxidant capacities. For a user’s review of the new Prevage Anti-Aging Night Cream with idebenone, please visit the review on the 15 Minute Beauty blog, written by a physician. 
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February 17th, 2008
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futurederm |
Antioxidant Treatments, Best Products, Best Products |
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StriVectin SD ($135.00, StriVectin.com) started to be developed as a stretch mark cream in the U.S., as its peptide content could be used to increase collagen synthesis. However, it was later used and marketed as a wrinkle cream under the popular advertising slogan, “Better than BotoxTM?”
Is StriVectin SD Better Than Botox?
Unfortunately, no. In fact, a 2006 study compared the efficacy of botulinum toxin type A (Botox™), placebo injection, StriVectin-SD®, Wrinkle Relax™, and HydroDerm™ (with palmitoyl oligopeptide), and found that none of the topical preparations were better than Botox in efficacy and overall patient satisfaction. This is most likely due to the fact that topical preparations of peptides increase collagen production over time, whereas Botox relaxes muscles and makes wrinkles less apparent and stimulates collagen production over time.
Is the peptide complex in StriVectinSD effective?
By independent scientific research studies, yes. StriVectin SD contains two peptides, the more popular (and studied) peptide, palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 as well as palmitoyl oligopeptide. Palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 is the amino acid sequence lysine-threonine-threonine-lysine-serine, which has been demonstrated to stimulate feedback regulation of new collagen synthesis and to result in an increased production of extracellular matrix proteins (types I and II collagen and fibronectin). For these reasons, palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 is increasingly popular in skin care products, and is in slightly higher concentration than the other, palmitoyl oligopeptide, in StriVectin SD.
Palmitoyl oligopeptide is a sequence of peptides that reads valine-glycine-valine-alanine-proline-glycine combined with a palmitic acid in order to increase penetration through the epidermis. A 2007 study in Dermatologic Therapy suggests that palmitoyl oligopeptide significantly stimulates human skin collagen production in fibroblasts, which may slow the degradation of collagen over time. On the other hand, palmitoyl oligopeptide has been found to down-regulate elastin expression. From one point of view, this is not a bad thing - as stated in Cosmetic Dermatology, elastin expression naturally increases with age, but the elastin cross-fibers grow in a less organized pattern than in individuals at a younger age, so down-regulating unorganized elastin expression may be a good thing. On the other hand, products that stimulate elastin production (like Relastin Eye Silk) have been found to increase the firmness of the skin, so down-regulating elastin expression may not be a good thing, either.
What about the other ingredients in StriVectin SD?
It is an extremely hydrating cream, with sesame oil, triglycerides, sweet almond oil, urea, shea butter, mango butter and urea, amongst others. Unfortunately, StriVectin SD contains very low concentrations of antioxidants and retinyl palmitate (less than 1%). I am not a fan of retinyl palmitate; according to this 1997 study in the Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 0.6% retinyl palmitate is less effective in penetrating human skin than 0.025% retinol (the concentration similar to that found in many other over-the-counter skincare formulations). However, even though retinyl palmitate is less potent than retinol, it has been shown to exhibit collagen-stimulating, wrinkle-reducing, smoothing effects, with less irritation than retinol. At any rate, not a great source of much else other than hydrating ingredients, which are not hard to find in less expensive formulations, and peptides, which can be found for less in Cosmedicine Primary Care Moisturizer SPF 20, amongst other sources.
What do users of StriVectin SD say?
For 44 product reviews from users, please click here.
Overall…
A good source of hydration and peptides, but not much else. A good moisturizer if you are already using a regime with retinol/retinoids and antioxidants and just want to add in some hydration and collagen-stimulating peptides. Rating: 7/10 (good source of hydration and peptides, but not much else)
Product Ingredients (courtesy AcneDoctor.com)
Deionized Water, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Sesame Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglycerine, Sweet Almond Oil, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Striadril Complex (consisting of Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3, Phyllanthus Emblica Fruit Extract, Siegesbeckia Orientals Extract, Polyglyceryn Methacrylate, Propylene Glycol, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Glucosamine HCL, Algae Extract, Yeast Extract, Urea, Butylene Glycol, Hydrocotyl Extract, Coneflower Extract, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydrolyzed Wheat Starch, Imperata Cylindrica, Root Extract, Bearberry Extract and Licorice PTH), Glycerin, PPG-12/SMDI Copolymer, Glycerul Stearate and PEG-100 Searate, Cocoa Butter, Stearic Acid, Shea Butter, Tocopheryl Acetate, Mango butter, Peppermint Oil, Methylparaben, Xanthan Gum, Propylparaben, Triethanolamine, Butylene Glycol, DMDM Hydantoin, Iodopropynyl Butylcabamate, Disodium EDTA, Retinyl Palmitate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate.
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February 17th, 2008
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futurederm |
Product Reviews |
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