Recently, a reader pointed out to me that palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, an ingredient in Olay 14-Day Intervention, is a component of Matrixyl, an established anti-aging peptide complex. After some reading, it turns out that Matrixyl is indeed the
demark
rin, Water, ButyleneMatrixyl = palmitoyl pentapeptide 3 = palmitoyl pentapeptide-4
If that sounds a bit confusing, don’t worry. Although I said yesterday that palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 was not as established in research studies as palmitoyl pentapeptide-3, I was wrong. It seems palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 is the new International Nomenclature of Cosmetics Ingredients name for palmitoyl pentapeptide-3. Why the name change? The only reasonable answer I can propose is that researchers later found the palmitoyl fatty acid group was attached to the fourth amino acid, arginine, rather than the third amino acid, threonine. (For the record, the entire five-peptide sequence is KTTKS, which reads arginine-threonine-threonine-arginine-serine.)
This sequence has been demonstrated to stimulate feedback regulation of new collagen synthesis and to result in an increased production of extracellular matrix proteins (types I and II collagen and fibronectin). For these reasons, Matrixyl/palmitoyl pentapeptide-3/palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 is increasingly popular in skin care products.
…But NOT Matrixyl 3000!
To make it even more confusing Matrixyl 3000 ® is different! According to a contact from Helix Bio Medix, Matrixyl 3000® is the brand name for a two-peptide combination ingredient that contains a synergistic combination of Pal-GHK (individually the Sederma, Inc. product Biopeptide-CL™, and Pal-GQPR (individually the Sederma Inc. product Rigin™). These are the two peptides in the standardized solution called Matrixyl 3000®, also a Sederma, Inc. product.
Palmitoyl hexapeptide-6 = Palmitoyl hexapeptide-14
These are synonymous names for the same six-peptide complex. According to a contact from Helix Bio Medix, the Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association (CTFA) changed the name “palmitoyl hexapeptide-6″ to “palmitoyl hexapeptide-14.” So don’t discriminate – these names are one and the same!
Palmitoyl oligopeptide
Palmitoyl oligopeptide is a sequence of six amino acids that reads valine-glycine-valine-alanine-proline-glycine combined with a palmitic acid in order to increase penetration through the epidermis. A 2007 study in Dermatologic Therapy suggests that palmitoyl oligopeptide significantly stimulates human skin collagen production in fibroblasts, which may slow the degradation of collagen over time. On the other hand, palmitoyl oligopeptide has been found to down-regulate elastin expression.
In summary…
I apologize for any confusion regarding yesterday’s post. At any rate, don’t discriminate between Matrixyl, palmitoyl pentapeptide-3, or palmitoyl pentapeptide-4: they are all the same now. But DO note that Matrixyl 3000 is different, that palmitoyl hexapeptide-6 and palmitoyl hexapeptide-14 are the same as one another, and palmitoyl oligopeptide is also different from all of them! 
Happy peptide shopping!
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[...] For the full article, please click here. [...]
[...] contains palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 instead of palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 (See information about peptides for correction, written March 4, 2008). [...]
Cool ! Thanks for the great article!
[...] Palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 is the amino acid sequence lysine-threonine-threonine-lysine-serine, which has been demonstrated in a study in Dermatologic Therapy to stimulate feedback regulation of new collagen synthesis and to result in an increased production of extracellular matrix proteins (types I and II collagen and fibronectin; i.e., it makes your skin firmer and prevents sagging with increased use over time). One (minor) downside is that the studies on palmitoyl pentapeptide-3, like other peptides, is limited. However, many derms still recommend palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 (as well as other peptides) to their patients as a part of an anti-aging regimen, particularly as peptides have a low incidence of irritation and numerous potential benefits. [...]
[...] Palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 is the amino acid sequence lysine-threonine-threonine-lysine-serine, which has been demonstrated in a study in Dermatologic Therapy to stimulate feedback regulation of new collagen synthesis and to result in an increased production of extracellular matrix proteins (types I and II collagen and fibronectin; i.e., it makes your skin firmer and prevents sagging with increased use over time). One (minor) downside is that the studies on palmitoyl pentapeptide-3, like other peptides, is limited. However, many derms still recommend palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 (as well as other peptides) to their patients as a part of an anti-aging regimen, particularly as peptides have a low incidence of irritation and numerous potential benefits. [...]
Peptight Skin Renewal Serum contains high levels of Matryxyl 3000, i bought this product from a salon near my home . after 2 days i saw my skin look firmer and new products with high levels of matryxyl 3000 are amazing
elaine uk
Palmitoyl petapeptide-3, the “-3″ mean what?
why cosmetic peptide have -1, -2, -3…?
And peptide have transdermal effect?
[...] skin stem cell stimulation with topical peptides, telomerases, and plant stem cells is very interesting. I imagine science will take it one step [...]
[...] skin stem cell stimulation with topical peptides, telomerases, and plant stem cells is very interesting. I imagine science will take it one step [...]