FutureDerm.com

Perspectives from a future dermatologist

Product Review: stila Perfecting Concealer and Pressed Powder

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At the request of some readers, I decided to go ahead and review more cosmetics.  :-)  Two I have recently been asked to review are stila Perfecting Concealer ($22.00, Amazon.com) and stila Pressed Powder ($28.00, Amazon.com).  Both claim to keep a control on shine, while disguising your noticeable flaws.  But are they really effective?  Read on…

A very good concealer

stila Perfecting Concealer contains high concentrations of hydrogenated polyisobutene and talc, giving the formula a thickened consistency.  Talc is the softest mineral, and is often used in oil-absorbing cosmetics for its efficacy.  Although talc has been speculated to cause skin cancer in the past, this is because older forms of talc contained potentially carcinogenic asbestiform amphibole fibers. The U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) considers non-asbestiform talc, as in stila Perfecting Concealer, to be Generally Recognized As Safe (GRAS) for use in cosmetics.  stila Perfecting Concealer also contains silica, which helps skin reflect the light after application.

stila Perfecting Concealer goes on thick and covers extremely well.  The best part is that it dries evenly and with a light sheen from the silica particles.  Once completely dry (after about five minutes), it can be layered with another coat for those especially hard-to-conceal places.

A light but concealing powder

stila Pressed Powder also conceals well, with a high concentration of opaque talc.  It also contains silica to reflect the light, and mineral oil to moisturize the skin.  A small amount of vitamin E provides a bit of antioxidant powder, but it is such a small amount (<1%, most likely) that it’s not really a selling point.

What is a selling point in stila Pressed Powder is the way it makes your skin look perfect over stila Perfecting Concealer.  I’m usually a big believer in skin care over cosmetics, but these products made my skin look airbrushed.

Bottom line:  Makes good skin look better

If you have good skin already, stila Perfecting Concealer and stila Pressed Powder disguise flaws and reflect the light, making your skin look even better.

On the other hand, if you have some problems with your skin, you may want to try a powder with more skin-nourishing ingredients.  For instance, if your skin is acne-prone, you may want to try a powder that contains salicyclic acid instead, like Neutrogena Skin-Clearing Oil Free Pressed Powder ($19.98 for two, Amazon.com).  Or, if your skin is dry and shows some fine lines and age spots, you may want to try a powder that contains niacinamide, like the new Cover Girl Advanced Radiance Age-Defying Pressed Powder ($16.62 for two, Amazon.com).

Bottom line: stila Perfecting Concealer and stila Pressed Powder are great for a cosmetic cover-up.  They don’t contain many skin-benefiting ingredients, but if you’ve been treating your skin right all along, these work like airbrushing!  :-)  Product Rating:  8/10 (Value for the money: 2/3.  Efficacy (at concealing): 3/3.  Concentration of effective (at concealing) ingredients: 3/3.  Sunscreen: 0/1).

Ingredients in stila Perfecting Concealer

Hydrogenated polyisobutene, talc, caprylic/capric triglyceride, squalane, dipentaerythrityl hexahydroxystearate/hexastearate/hexarosinate, hydrogenated styrene/ isoprene copolymer, nylon-12, ethylhexyl stearate, stearalkonium hectorite, boron nitride, tocopheryl linoleate, caprylyl glycol, hexylene glycol, propylene carbonate, bht, phenoxyethanol, [+/- titanium dioxide (ci 77891), iron oxides (ci 77491, ci 77492, ci 77499), ultramarines (ci 77007)]

Ingredients in stila Pressed Powder

Talc, Polymethyl Methacrylate, Silica, Zea Mays (Corn) Starch, Octyldodecyl Lactate, Isononyl Isononanoate, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Cetearyl EthylHexanoate, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract, Caprylyl Glycol, Hexylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Dimethicone, Zeolite, Nylon 12, Zinc Stearate, BHT, Phenoxyethanol, Sorbic Acid, May Contain (+/-): Mica, Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891), Iron Oxides (CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499), Ultramarines (CI 77007)

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March 21st, 2008 Posted by futurederm | Best Products, Best Products, Cosmetics | one comment

5 Ingredients for Your Most Beautiful Hair

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1. Biotin for hair growth and strength. According to a review in Clinical and Experimental Dermatology, 1-2 mg of biotin daily for 2 months has anecdotal clinical support may be worth consideration for supporting hair growth. However, the article also advises that excessive intakes of nutritional supplements are not recommended. Biotin deficiency is reported to cause dermatitis and hair loss, although most patients with relatively healthy, balanced diets do not have such a deficiency. As a result, it is advisable to take biotin supplements of no more than 1-2 mg daily. A recommended source is GNC Hair, Skin and Nails Formula ($17.99, Amazon.com) with 2500 mcg (2.5 mg) of biotin.

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2. Keravis for hair growth. (For you scientists out there, the INCI name for Kervis is Aqua (and) Hydrolysed Vegetable Protein PG-Propyl Silanetriol.) In a study in Cosmetics and Toiletries Manufacture Worldwide, it was found that Keravis was more effective than D-panthenol (a component in Pantene, amongst others) in increasing the strength of hair as measured by Flexabrasion. According to the study, Flexabrasion “measures a number of parameters that are considered to be most relevant during normal grooming practices,” and is ultimately a measure of hair’s strength after treatment. Keravis is available in 1% concentration in Naked Naturals shampoos and conditioners.

For more on Keravis, the study is available here.

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3. Thermal protection ingredients. Blow-drying is damaging for the hair because it is hitting the hair in a weakened state. My mother, a former beautician specializing in hair care, used to always tell me to imagine the hair like a piece of lace. When the lace is moistened, it certainly is easy to realize that it is weaker and more susceptible to damage. As such, always towel-dry with a super-absorbent towel first, air-dry if possible, and treat your hair with a leave-in conditioner. Two great options: Paul Mitchell Soft Style Heat Thermal Protection ($15.95, Amazon.com) and Kerastase Ciment Thermique ($34.00, KerastaseUSA.com).

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4. Hair sunscreen. Just as UV light induces free-radical damage in the skin, UV light can damage the hair, and even strip the hair of color, strength, and moisture. Luckily, companies have recognized this and have developed effective hair sunscreens. I recommend using a hair sunscreen that makes the SPF available, so you can compare the amount of protection, cost, and formulation consistencies across different brands. Two great ones are Shiseido Refreshing Sun Spray SPF 16 ($26.00, Amazon.com) and Quintessence Q-Shade Leave-in Conditioner and Scalp Treatment SPF 30 ($25.00, Amazon.com).

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5. Antioxidants! Antioxidants have been demonstrated to combat the negative effects of cigarette smoke, pollution, UV rays, and other sources of free radicals on the hair as well as the skin. Although free radicals can attack living cells in the skin, and the hair is comprised of non-living cells, the effects of free radical accumulation on the hair follicle have been reported to be detrimental to hair growth and coloring. Antioxidants commonly found in hair care products include olive oil, varied plant extracts, vitamin C and vitamin E. Because antioxidant strength is the same whether it is applied on the skin or on the hair follicle, the same advice applies: go for the best! I like Frederic Fekkai Olive Oil Glossing Cream ($19.50-$26.50, Amazon.com) because it contains antioxidant olive oil, has a nice light consistency, and really makes my hair shine.

As dermatologists treat hair, skin, and nails, so I’m going to make more posts about hair care soon! :-)

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March 21st, 2008 Posted by futurederm | Best Products, Best Products, Hair Treatments | no comments