In a new feature, FutureDerm.com will be featuring links to some of this week’s best beauty blogs on the web, so you don’t have to look for them. 
Let me know if you like it! :-) Here’s the first round:
The Beauty Brains tells you how to protect your hair from heat damage (particularly significant with all of the extra UV damage it will be getting this summer!)
15 Minute Beauty Fanatic reviews the Jane Iredale Frame of Mind cosmetics collection. If you’re not familiar with Jane Iredale, her cosmetics all contain research-backed skin-beneficial ingredients. I am a fan!
The Derm Blog asks what makes a face beautiful. Apparently, beauty is subjective, but good skin care helps. :-) For more on the interesting subject, read on.
Beauty Addict tells you how to make the perfect wedding day survival kit. A must-print-and-share article for any summer brides or bridesmaids!
Dr. Leslie Baumann tells you how to get all the skin care products you need for under $50 (LOVE IT!!!)
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April 30th, 2008
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futurederm |
Anti-Aging Treatments, Antioxidant Treatments, Cosmetic Dermatology News, Hair Removal |
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According to the advertisements, Garnier Nutritioniste Skin Renew formula ($12.99, Walgreens.com) will help to reverse signs of past sun damage like fine lines, discolorations, and sun spots, as well as protect against future damage.
The product claims to contain 2x the vitamin C of the usual Garnier Nutritioniste formulas. Garnier Nutritioniste products seem to always use vitamin C in the form of ascorbyl glucoside, which has been found to be more stable than L-ascorbic acid at a wider range of pH and temperatures. While it has been found that ascorbyl glucoside has the collagen-stimulating, antioxidant, skin-lightening effects of L-ascorbic acid, the only downside is that the exact concentration of ascorbyl glucoside in Garnier Nutritioniste Skin Renew formula is not given, whereas it is established in certain L-ascorbic acid formulations like Cellex-C contain 15% L-ascorbic acid.
Garnier Nutritioniste Skin Renew formula also contains magnesium. Magnesium has been shown to improve barrier function recovery in the skin of mice, and the company claims that magnesium also “energizes and hydrates” the skin.
The last main ingredient, lycopene, I have mixed feelings about. On the one hand, lycopene, the caroten that gives tomatoes its red pigment, has been reported by Dr. G. Todorov to be the best antioxidant among carotens, with at least twice the free-radical scavenging ability as ß-carotene. Lycopene also serves as a natural sunscreen, providing a UVB of about 3, and it is speculated that lycopene could improve cell-to-cell junctions, theoretically improving skin’s texture. A 2002 study by Offord et. al. further found that lycopene and vitamin E together, as in Garnier Nutritioniste Skin Renew formula, can suppress the expression of matrix metalloproteinase-1 (collagen-digesting) mRNA. Unfortunately, the use of lycopene at all is questionable at this time, as a 2005 study by Yeh et. al demonstrated that topical application of lycopene “enhances UVA-induced oxidative stress in [mouse] fibroblast (skin) cells, and…under UVA irradiation, lycopene may produce oxidative products that are responsible for the prooxidant effects.” Although this study was done on the mouse, based on these results and similar from Offord et. al., it does not seem advisable to use lycopene in skin care products at this time.
According to reviews of Garnier Nutritioniste Skin Renew formula, the product is light, non-greasy, and smells delightful. Women largely report after a few weeks’ use that their skin feels softer and smoother. However, the eradication of age spots may take a while, as blogger E. Harmon notes that she had not noticed a “huge difference in the tone or brightness” of her skin, although notes that the effect may occur “with continued use over time.” I think it all depends on the amount of ascorbyl glucoside in the product, which hasn’t been reported.
Overall, I think Garnier Nutritioniste Skin Renew formula is a quality product, though it may not be as effective as products with a higher concentration of vitamin C, like Cellex-C. Still, it should improve skin’s texture, provide sun protection, and may eradicate sun spots over time. I give it a solid 7/10 (high concentration of proven ingredients: 1.5/3. New technology: 1.5/3, for the as-of-yet questionable inclusion of lycopene. Value for the money: 3/3. Sunscreen: 1/1.)
Ingredients in Garnier Nutritioniste Anti Sun Damage Moisture Lotion SPF 28
Water; Isononyl Isononanote; Glycerin; Cyclohexasiloxane; Propylene Glycol; Ethylhexyl Palmitate; Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate; Butylene Glycol; Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate; Dimethicone; Nylon-66; Styrene/Acrylates Copolymer; Glyceryl Stearate; Behenyl Alcohol; Solanium Lycopersicum (Tomato) Extract*; Ascorbyl Glucoside**; Tocopheryl Acetate; Actindia Chinensis (Kiwi) Fruit Water; Rosa Canina Fruit Oil; Capryloyl Salicylic Acid; Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate; Caprylyl Glycol; Magnesium PCA***; Manganese PCA***; Mica; Sodium PCA***; Titanium Dioxide; Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer; Dimethyl Isosorbide; PEG-8 Laurate; Disodium EDTA; Glyceryl Stearate Citrate; Octyldodecanol; Polycaprolactone; Sodium Citrate; Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 Sulfate; Sodium Hydroxide; Xanthan Gum; Methylparaben; Propylparaben; Butylparaben; Fragrance; Linalool; Benzyl Salicylate; Limonene; Geraniol; Citral; *Lycopene; **Vitamin C; ***Magnesium
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April 30th, 2008
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futurederm |
Anti-Aging Treatments, Antioxidant Treatments, Hyperpigmentation Treatments, Product Reviews, Sunblocks, Wrinkle Treatments, sunscreen |
one comment
What better way to start summer than with a fresh hair removal system? The No! No! system ($250.00, Sephora.com) is a system that uses a heat technology known as Thermicon to remove hair. Thermicon is a technology developed by Radiancy that may be summarized best in three almost-simultaneous steps:
- First contact. In first contact, the thermodynamic wire in No! No! transmits a thermal signal that separates the hair shaft at point of contact. (Like clipping your hair with heat instead of a scissors.)
- Crystallization. In crystallization, the thermal signal hits the uppermost part of the hair shaft, which makes the hair temporarily feel prickly at the touch.
- Disruption. This is actually, in my opinion, the beauty of the No! No! system, as No! No! is believed to disrupt cell communication between the hair bulge and root, which may be essential to hair regrowth. Over time, repeated disruption of the cellular communication between the bulge and root is believed to lead to lower hair density and regrowth.
Excitingly, in a published 2007 study in the Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, the No! No! system was found to remove hair as effectively as more expensive laser and light removal treatments.
After personal use of the system on my legs, I found that the amount of hair was significantly reduced after a months’ use. However, the system is not for the impatient: You have to slide No! No! over your legs at a 90 degree angle verrry sloooowly, as the light needs to be kept green on the system. If you go too fast, the light will turn red, indicating that the system is not working properly. In addition, after treating each area, you have to use the provided buffer to exfoliate the skin. The entire process with No! No! needs to be repeated 2-3 times per week; however, I will admit, the process got easier and easier (and hence faster and faster) by my third or fourth use.
No! No! is not to be used on the face, breasts, or genitals. Despite its nickname for “No hair!, No pain!,” if you hold the system over one area for too long, you will indeed experience a bit of pain as you burn your skin. So be sure only to use No! No! on your legs, arms, and underarm area.
For an at-home hair removal system, No! No! is a bit pricey, with the $21 blades and $7 buffers needing to be replaced every 3 months (approximately thirty hair removals later). However, considering that No! No! gives the same efficacy as professional laser and light hair removal treatments, it is in fact a cheaper alternative, which also gives the long-term effect of reducing the growth and density of hair in most individuals.
I like my No! No! very much. If you decide in fact to get one, be sure to read the user’s manual or watch the provided informational DVD before using. Be careful, be patient, and soon, you will have less hair than ever before, right in time for bikini season!
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April 29th, 2008
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Best Products, Best Products, Cosmetic Dermatology News, Hair Removal, Product Reviews |
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Every once in a while, a skin care ingredient comes along that I am really excited about. That is the case with spin traps, also known as phenyl butyl nitrone. According to Dr. Cheryl Burgess’ Cosmetic Dermatology, spin traps are a ‘new’ form of antioxidant that have the ability to catch an electron as it spins out of control and actually returns it to its normal orbit before it can do any damage. In other words, catching a free radical before it is free to do damage! According to Cosmetic Dermatology, the protective abilities of spin traps comes from their modulation of proinflammatory cytokines.
Spin traps have been shown to prevent free radical induction in the substantia nigra (a portion of the brain) in rats, according to Neuroscience Letters. Numerous studies by Dr. J. Carney and his associates, including this 1996 study in Radiation Research, have shown that phenyl butyl nitrone has anti-inflammatory and age-reducing effects.
If you would like to try spin traps, they are available in the Your Best Face skin care line ($120-160, ybf-skincare.com, pictured above). Although I have not tried the line personally, it features firming peptides like palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 as well as spin traps (phenyl butyl nitrone), so the products should firm the skin, stimulate collagen production, and serve as unique antioxidants in the skin. If you are looking for a nighttime antioxidant treatment that features firming peptides, this may be a good fit for you!
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April 29th, 2008
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Antioxidant Treatments, Cosmetic Dermatology News, Spotlight On... |
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Although I normally apply the excess skin care products from my face onto my hands, as I get older, I notice that I grow to like separate hand creams more and more all the time. Enter Le Couvent Des Minimes Gardener’s Hand Healer ($5.00 for 0.8 oz, $25.00 for 2.6 oz, LeCouventdesMinimes.us) into my quest for the perfect hand cream.
The very rich cream is fortified with a blend of seven nourishing and hydrating ingredients (please click on the links for verifying research studies/texts): shea butter (hydrating), mimosa (restorative), chamomile (anti-inflammatory), marshmallow, calendula (antiseptic), lemon balm (antibacterial), rosemary (an antioxidant), and verbena (relaxing). After I applied it, the cream felt thick on my hands, but not sticky.
I recommend using the product at night, for two reasons: One, it doesn’t contain sunscreen, so you’re probably better off carrying around a hydrator with sunscreen like Neutrogena Norwegian Formula SPF 30 Hand Cream ($9.79, Drugstore.com) or Bath and Body Works True Spa Love Me Tender SPF 15 Hand Cream ($13.00, BathandBodyWorks.com). Two, the lemon balm in the product offers a rather potent fragrance. And while I personally adore the scent of lemons, it may clash with, say, your usual Chanel No. 5.
I love using this product under cotton gloves right before bed - I wake up to soft and restored hands. Definitely a wonderful product, worth a shot after all the incidental and beach sun exposure your poor hands will be getting this summer!
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April 27th, 2008
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Best Products, Best Products, Dry Skin Treatments, Hand Treatments, Product Reviews |
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First picture: After the ceremony with roses from my parents. Second picture: With my dad, in my cap and gown.
Today I graduated from the University of Pittsburgh with a B.S. in the Biological Sciences, a B.A. in Physics/Astronomy, and a minor in Chemistry. Although my final grades haven’t been posted yet, it appears I will be graduating Phi Beta Kappa with high honors. Normally, I don’t post about personal events on my blog, but since this pertains to my career and everyone is always so nice, I thought it might be nice to post about it here.
Over 8000 students graduated today. The ceremony was great: Dan Marino, a Class of ‘83 Pitt alum, gave the graduation address, and was awarded with an honorary doctorate. I’m a pretty big football fan, so I was pretty stoked. His speech emphasized not only the importance of hard work, but also family, which I thought was really touching. I enjoyed the whole process.
I’m pretty excited to be done with undergrad and am ready to embark on the next stage of my life, medical school!
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April 27th, 2008
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Ah, skin care products from infomercials. Some, like Pro-Activ, are pretty quality. Others (which shall not be named here) get sued for false advertising and claims. So it’s hard to know which products just sound quality and which are the real deal. Which brings me to Hydroxatone ($69.95, Urbane-Nutrition.com). Marketed as a product that “erases wrinkles without BotoxTM,” women on the radio claim that their husbands can’t get over how much younger they look after each use.
The product is marketed as “an alternative to Botox” due to its inclusion of Argireline (Acetyl Hexapeptide-3). A peptide originally created by Lipotec in Barcelona, argireline was found in a 2002 study by Blanes-Mira et. al to reduce the depth of wrinkles by up to 30% with thirty days when injected into the skin, similar to BotoxTM. For this reason, argireline is often called the “freeze” skin care ingredient. According to Mary Duenwald from the New York Times, argireline works on the same muscle-to-nerve connections as BotoxTM. Specifically, argireline was found by Gutierrez et. al in 1997 to prevent neurons from stimulating muscles to contract, which relaxes the muscles, giving the skin a smoother appearance, and preventing the formation of wrinkles that are caused by excessive use of the muscles. Unfortunately, while injections of argireline produced similar results to BotoxTM, argireline in skin care creams cannot diffuse through the top layers of skin to reach the crucial muscle-nerve connections like injectable BotoxTM.
This is not the first time a cream has stated that it has efficacy similar to BotoxTM. In a 2006 study, the efficacy of botulinum toxin type A (Botox™), placebo injection, and three claimed alternatives, StriVectin-SD®, Wrinkle Relax™, and HydroDerm™ (all with peptide complexes similar to Hydroxatone) were compared, and it was found that none of the topical preparations were better than BotoxTM in efficacy and overall patient satisfaction. This is most likely due to the fact that peptides just increase collagen production over time, whereas BotoxTM stimulates collagen production over time and relaxes muscles, giving immediate results.
This is not to say that Hydroxatone or other peptide-complex creams are not effective. On the contrary, Hydroxatone contains not only Argireline (Acetyl Hexapeptide-3), but also Matrixyl-3000® and the natural moisturizing factor hyaluronic acid. According to the company Helix Bio Medix, Matrixyl 3000® is the brand name for a two-peptide combination ingredient. At the 2002 World Congress of Dermatology in Paris, France, Matrixyl® was reported to decrease wrinkle depth by 68% and wrinkle density by 47% over six months. In addition, Matrixyl® stimulates fibroblasts to produce collagen, and also promotes hyaluronic acid production in the skin over time. However, Matrixyl® must be applied in minimum concentrations of 2%, but ideally between 4 and 8%, in order to demonstrate these effects; the concentration in Hydroxatone has not been reported.
Therefore, Hydroxatone is definitely an exciting product that seems likely to stimulate collagen and hyaluronic acid production over time, resulting in firmer, more moisturized skin. However, due to the fact that topical argireline has not been shown to have the efficacy of injected BotoxTM, don’t be using the cream thinking that you’ll look like you just stepped out of the derm’s office. Definitely a great cream, maybe just a tad overhyped.
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April 25th, 2008
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Product Reviews |
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Ah, dark circles. Your mouth may be able to lie to the boss and tell her you’re well-rested, but the undereye area always tells all about your late nights. That is, until you discover a few well-researched secrets from the mouths of dermatologists… Dark circles are not entirely understood, but are most likely either caused by excessive melanin production or blood pooling under the eyes as a result of inflammation or vasodilation, according to Dr. Leslie Baumann’s Cosmetic Dermatology. To find out what the cause of yours is, do the following test, from Dr. Heidi Waldorf in this month’s Oprah magazine: If you apply pressure to the circle or shadow and it disappears, your problem is due to blood pooling under the eyes. If the color doesn’t disappear, the darkness is caused by excess pigment. And if the shadow forms at the inside corner of your eye, where a tear would flow, it’s probably due to a deep tear trough.
The Best Over-The-Counter Treatment
A Baumann-cited study by Elson has demonstrated that use of vitamin K (phytonadione) combined with 0.15% retinol (quite strong) resulted in improving under-eye circles in 93 percent of the patients studied. Both vitamin K and retinol are available in Quintessence Under Eye Capsules ($53.10, Amazon.com); however, although Quintessence Under Eye Capsules have been reported to be effective, it is unlikely that the capsules contain 0.15% retinol. As suggested by Dr. Audrey Kunin in The DermaDoctor SkinStruction Manual, you may want to apply a stronger retinol cream to the undereye area, such as the 0.9% retinol favorite Green Cream Level 9 ($49.95, Amazon.com) followed by a vitamin K-rich eye cream, like my personal favorite, Peter Thomas Roth Power K Eye Rescue ($100.00, Amazon.com). Dr. Audrey Kunin suggests applying the retinol cream every other night to the delicate eye area, and using vitamin K every night (including nights you are using retinol too). If you are looking for at-home remedies, if your dark circles are caused by blood pooling under the eyes, enzymes in cucumber slices reduce tissue inflammation, which may reduce the blood somewhat, according to Dr. Kunin. In addition, Drs. Baumann, Waldorf, and Kaminsky all agree that adequate rest is essential for treating dark circles. Kaminsky recommends aiming for seven to eight hours of sleep each night.
The Best Concealer
Concealing dark circles is as easy as using the color wheel: yellow is across from purple, so use a yellow-based concealer to hide your purplish dark circles most effectively. One dark circle concealer and treatment I highly recommend is DERMADoctor Eye Spy Dark Circle Disguise and Neutralizing Agent ($41.00, Dermadoctor.com). The product is a yellow-based concealer with caffeine to reduce inflammation, retinol to fight the dark circles, reduce fine lines and increase collagen production, palmitoyl tetrapeptide to increase collagen production, and hesperidin methyl chalcone (an alternative to vitamin K) to fight dark circles. Just be sure to use sunscreen or a sunscreen-containing moisturizer under it. Blending this product well makes it suitable for men as well.
Why a Derm Can Help
Of course, sometimes at-home treatments are not enough. According to Dr. Heidi Waldorf, stubborn dark circles may lead you to desire 2-3 treatments with a Vbeam laser, at $100-600 per treatment. In addition, Waldorf adds that dark circles created from a tear trough (see test above) is treated best by injections with a hyaluronic acid filler such as Restylane or Juvederm. Dermatologists are also able to give prescription-strength retinoid treatments to use in conjunction with vitamin K. In addition, sometimes your dark circles may be the result of allergies, according to Dr. Kaminsky. Talk to your doctor about an antihistamine that does not leave you drowsy. There are numerous treatments for your dark circles, and the truth is, dermatology has advanced to the point where you don’t have to live with them. The power is yours!
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April 24th, 2008
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Image source: Milwent.com
Crow’s feet are amongst the most complained about wrinkles on a patient’s face. And for good reason: “Crow’s-feet are usually the earliest wrinkles to appear on a woman’s face,” says dermatologist Debra Price, M.D., clinical assistant professor of dermatology at the University of Miami School of Medicine and a dermatologist in South Miami. So what to do about crow’s feet?
Take an aggressive approach at home.
To quote Meg Ryan in You’ve Got Mail, “Fight, fight, fight!” Start each day off with a multivitamin that contains vitamin C and linoleic acid, which has been recently reported in a study amongst 4000 women to reduce wrinkles. Next, apply an antioxidant serum and sunscreen or moisturizer with sunscreen, concentrating on the area around your eyes. Be careful that the formulations are tolerated well around the delicate eye area. My well-touted favorites are Skinceuticals CE Ferulic ($107.00, Amazon.com) and NIA 24 Physical Sunscreen SPF 30 ($42.95, Amazon.com), but I also love the new Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Dry Touch Sunscreen SPF 85 ($8.99, Drugstore.com) for ultima supremo sun protection (the most photostable out there, according to some reports). During the day, Dr. Perricone also recommends that you eat a diet rich in fruits and vegetables (for antioxidant activity), salmon (for omega-3s), healthy fats (think almonds and olive oil), and full of water and green or white tea to keep skin glowing. After all, nutrition and skin care together have better results than skin care alone.
At night, use a retinoid cream, followed by a moisturizer with DMAE, niacinamide, or antioxidants, provided your skin can tolerate it. The retinoid treatment is easier to choose: there is 0.5% retinol in Skinceuticals Retinol 0.5 ($32.95, Amazon.com), 0.6% retinol in Green Cream Level 6 ($42.95, Amazon.com) 0.9% retinol in Green Cream Level 9 ($49.95, Amazon.com), and 1.0% retinol in Skinceuticals Retinol 1.0 ($52.00, Amazon.com). You may want to start with a lesser concentration of retinol, applied every 2-3 nights, and gradually work up to nightly use.
As for a nightly moisturizer, Dr. Nicholas Perricone recommends using DMAE, which has been found and reported in two independent studies in The Textbook of Cosmetic Dermatology and Skin Research and Dermatology to significantly firm skin in the undereye area. A product with a high concentration of DMAE is NV Perricone Vitamin C Ester Amine Face Lift ($95.00, Sephora.com), and another designed for around the eyes with slightly less DMAE is NV Perricone Advanced Eye Area Therapy ($95.00, Sephora.com). (P.S.: Free shipping is also available for a limited time on orders of $50 or more from Sephora with the code SHIPPING50 at checkout!)
If DMAE is too harsh for your skin, niacinamide and antioxidants have also been found to have beneficial effects against wrinkles, in various studies. My favorite moisturizer with niacinamide is Olay Regenerist, while my favorite antioxidant moisturizer is RevaléSkin Night Cream.
Once a week, in lieu of your usual nightly routine, use a glycolic acid treatment, provided again that your skin can handle it. (Consult your dermatologist if you are unsure.) Two of my favorite glycolic acid peels are MD Skincare: Dr. Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Daily Face Peel ($75.00 for a thirty-day supply, Sephora.com) and Peter Thomas Roth UnWrinkle Peel Pads ($45.00, Amazon.com). Click here for a full review of the Dr. Dennis Gross peel; click here for a review of the Peter Thomas Roth Un-Wrinkle Peel Pads.
Then go see your dermatologist to look even better.
In the Journal of Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery, amongst many other sources, Botox injections have been found to make a dramatic difference in wrinkles. According to Dr. Jeffrey Benabio, M.D., in this month’s Oprah magazine, Botox injections partially paralyze the orbicularis orbis muscle to prevent it from contracting, which causes further wrinkling (and shows off the wrinkles you already have).
Benabio also recommends injectable fillers, like Restylane, to fill up the lines. Injections generally last 6-12 months, and are usually redone every 6 months. The cost is generally upwards of $500 per injection, but this varies by practitioner.
Last but not least, Benabio recommends dermatologist-strength chemical peels and lasers to stimulate collagen production, keeping the skin firm and crow’s feet production down in the future.
Yes, you can do it!
Always keep in mind that dermatology today is a lot more powerful than in years past. You can improve and prevent wrinkles, but, like everything else, it takes time, patience, knowledge, funds, and dedication.
Let me know what works for you! I love hearing feedback!
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April 23rd, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Anti-Aging Treatments, Antioxidant Treatments, Best Products, Best Products, Eye Creams, Firming Treatments, General Cosmetic Dermatology, How to Get Rid of..., Spotlight On..., Wrinkle Treatments |
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I love a good bargain, so I’ve always just grabbed $5 sunglasses at my local mall. Still, as an avid sun-protective clothing devotee, I was beyond ecstatic when a reader sent me Oakley Eternal Sunglasses ($120.00, Oakley.com) for review.
I’ve often wondered if more expensive sunglasses are better. In 2006, the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology determined that expensive sunglasses are “not necessarily better,” although there are rare instances in which cheaper sunglasses have been found to have less UV protection than reported, and some distortions in the lenses. More expensive sunglasses, such as those from Oakley, usually undergo more quality testing.
I will say this about my Oakleys too: they are stylish, and they look nice! I have also found, after a solid month’s use, that they are scratch-free, still in immaculate condition, and yes, being valued at over $100, they are the first pair of sunglasses I have not sat on or lost yet.
With that said, I am a fan of the new Oakleys collection, which is actually targeted at young men and women, being less expensive than its usual collections. It’s a way to look stylish and keep your eyes (and the skin around your eyes) sun-free, which I love!
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April 23rd, 2008
Posted by
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Product Reviews |
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