If you read my blog enough, you know that I am a diehard Skinceuticals CE Ferulic junkie. I would probably inject, inhale, and snort the $128 serum if it were possible to do so. (And yes, this is me being sarcastic, haha.) 
So imagine my surprise when I discovered that Skinceuticals has a new serum: Skinceuticals Phloretin CF ($128.00, Skinmedix.com). It’s kind-of like CE Ferulic was a Harvard grad, only to have its baby cousin Phloretin CF emerge and become a Rhodes Scholar: Phloretin CF is just that amazing. Preliminary research demonstrates that it is basically a super antioxidant that not only fights free radicals, but also protects against DNA damage and penetrates well into the skin. As said in June 2008 issue of Oprah, “Phloretin, a natural extract that’s been studied as an anticancer agent, is the newest antioxidant available topically; research has shown it can penetrate the skin and provide significant UV protection.” According to Dr. Brenton B. Koch, M.D., F.A.C.S., SkinCeuticals developed Phloretin CF after five extensive years of research. Dr. Koch elaborates in his blog, “This powerhouse formulation divides and conquers when it comes to damage at every level. Phloretin CF protects against not only free radicals, but the range of other reactive molecules known to cause damage and DNA mutations among integral cell types. In addition, it corrects existing damage by stimulating the synthesis of essential proteins and fibers and accelerating cell turnover.” Additional research in The Journal of Biological Chemistry shows that phloretin is an inhibitor of sugar transport amongst red blood cells, which holds some level of promise as to the role phloretin may play in AGE formation and the subsequent hardening of the skin’s collagen.
So how does Phloretin CF differ from CE Ferulic? Basically, Skinceuticals:
- removed all the vitamin E (1% to 0%) and 5% of the vitamin C from CE Ferulic (from 15% to 10%)
- kept the same level of ferulic acid as an antioxidant stabilizer (0.5%)
- added in 2% phloretin (from 0% to 2%)
What is exciting about this is that 2% phloretin reportedly is a very powerful antioxidant, not only fighting free radicals, but also protecting DNA from future damage and penetrating the skin in a way the ingredients in CE Ferulic were not shown to in published research. What is not exciting is that the product not only contains less vitamin C than CE Ferulic, but took out the vitamin E altogether, and vitamin C and vitamin E in combination have many well-established functions together, including prevention of the formation of carcinogenic nitrosamines and enhancing the photoprotective effects of sunscreen, as vitamin C has been reported to enhance UVA protection, whereas vitamin E is more effective against UVB radiation. Vitamin C and vitamin E are also two antioxidants that are able to “borrow” an electron to enhance one another.
So which is better? The word is still out, until some brilliant scientist decides to do a comparison study of 15% L-ascorbic acid and 0.5% vitamin E versus 10% L-ascorbic acid and 2.0% phloretin. I say, if you are a cautious person, stick to the proven CE Ferulic until more research inevitably surfaces. (And my own personal experience from doing a switch to Phloretin CF, which will be available on the blog on June 17. ) On the other hand, if you are a trendy person who likes to be the first to try new things, then I would try Phloretin CF, because it is likely that 2.0% phloretin is equally or even more effective than 0.5% vitamin E, though one cannot be sure of such a thought.
At any rate, I love Phloretin CF! Be sure to come back on June 17 (and hopefully before, haha) to get the full scoop on my personal experiences from the switch!
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June 2nd, 2008
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futurederm |
Anti-Aging Treatments, Antioxidant Treatments, Best Products, Best Products, Cosmetic Dermatology News, Firming Treatments, Hyperpigmentation Treatments, Product Reviews |
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Ah, just when I think I’ve heard it all, I run across MaMa Lotion ($44.50, Cosmeticville.com). A dermatological-grade potent combination of 20% unique alpha hydroxy acids (10% mandelic acid, 10% malic acid), MaMa Lotion has what it takes to become a new regular in my skin care line-up, reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, freckles, acne blemishes, acne scarring, hyperpigmentation, enlarged pores, melasma, ingrown hairs, and rough skin.
One of the main ingredients in MaMa Lotion, mandelic acid, is an alpha hydroxy acid derived from almonds. According to research published in the journal Tetrahedron, mandelic acid is a potent antioxidant, preventing skin lipid peroxidation when applied topically. A review in Clinics in Dermatology further affirms that mandelic acid is an AHA tat is able to treat signs of photoaging (including skin roughness and fine lines). Interestingly enough, mandelic acid is also used at 0.5% in antimicrobial solutions as an activating solution for 0.1% sodium chlorite.
Malic acid (hydroxybutanedioic acid) is an alpha hydroxy acid that is found naturally in apples. In the Journal of Dermatology, a published study found that a combination of malic acid and glycolic acid increased cell proliferation and functional activation of fibroblasts, indicating that the ingredient is effective in stimulating collagen production. Although it has been reported in the International Journal of Skin Science that malic acid is somewhat less effective than the alpha hydroxy acids glycolic acid and lactic acid, in combination with other AHAs (like the mandelic acid in MaMa Lotion), malic acid has been reported to have great efficacy in treating skin roughness, fine lines, and hyperpigmentation. Unlike the other AHAs, malic acid has also been demonstrated to have some level of anti-microbial activity, as reported in The American Journal of Enology and Viticulture.
Skin following 1 month treatment with MaMa Lotion.
MaMa Lotion is a very strong and effective product, with 20% AHAs and a pH of 2.5. For this reason, special instructions are necessary for those using MaMa Lotion; namely, MaMa Lotion should not be used more than twice a week for the first few weeks, and usage can then be increased to every other day or everyday, depending on the skin’s tolerance of the product. A gentle, broad-spectrum sunscreen, like LaRoche Posay, should be used everyday in conjunction with the product, and other products with AHAs, retinol, and the sun should be avoided. Those with darker skin should additionally consult this page for further instructions.
Although MaMa Lotion goes on very thick, it absorbs into the skin within 10-15 minutes, leaving the skin extremely smooth. The treatment can also be used on rough areas like the knees, elbows, and feet (with appropriate sun protection on these areas, of course!) With that said, I love MaMa Lotion. Although the very potent product does need to be used with caution, when used properly and in conjunction with proper sun protection, it really gives skin a fantastic glow! Product rating: 9.5/10. (High concentration of effective ingredients: 3+/3. New technology or unique formulation: 3/3. Value for the money: 3/3. Sunscreen: 0.5/1; there is no sunscreen in this product, but it should only be used at night anyway, so it is only a 0.5 deduction).
If you would like to try MaMa Lotion, Cosmeticville.com is currently giving away a free sample of MaMa lotion with any purchase! In the comments box at checkout, put - MaMa Lotion Sample. For more information, please visit Cosmeticville.com.
Water, Mandelic Acid, Malic Acid, Algae Extract, Polyacrylamide, Potassium Hydroxide, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Ubiquinone, Dimethicone, Cyclomethicone, Fragrance, Squalane, Laureth-7, Tetrasodium EDTA, Isopropylparaben, Isobutylparaben and Butylparaben.
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June 2nd, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Acne Treatments, Anti-Aging Treatments, Best Products, Best Products, Best Skincare Gifts, Firming Treatments, Hyperpigmentation Treatments, Offers and Promotions, Pore Size Treatments, Product Reviews, Special Offers, Wrinkle Treatments |
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