Spotlight On: Bearberry
I am sorry for not writing for a few days…I took a few days off from this and my day job ( 
), and now I feel better, relaxed, rejuvenated, and ready to talk skin care!
With that said, an exciting new ingredient for hyperpigmentation is bearberry, derived from a type of dwarf shrub rumored to be enjoyed by bears (hence, I suppose, the Yogi-licious name.) Humans (particularly those with derm licenses) are currently developing a taste for bearberry as well: In a 2008 study published in the Journal of Investigative Dermatology, certain active compounds found in bearberry, including arbutin, aloesin, flavonoids, hesperidin, and polyphenols, inhibit melanogenesis without melanocytotoxicity. The means of inhibition was varied, indicating that several bearberry successfully stops age spots from forming in several different ways. Promising!
A separate 2008 study found that bearberry lightened hyperpigmentation up to 70 percent, whereas the industry standard hydroquinone was effective in 78 percent of cases. However, due to incessant reports of irritation from hydroquinone use, as well as possible ochronosis development, bearberry holds a great deal of promise for those with sensitive or darker skin. In addition, bearberry has also been found to have antibacterial and antioxidant activity.
Due to its recent development as a whole ingredient (rather than just its extracts), bearberry found in very few products, including Amazonia Skin Balancing Cleanser ($18.00, Amazon.com).
Here’s to this exciting new ingredient!
Thank you for this wonderful post! I’ve been using products with bearberry for some time now. Although hydroquinone is better at whitening, I do not want to risk irritation or melasma. So far, my skin has become a tiny bit clearer except for my acne marks, which takes a long time to fade. Thank you once again!
Comment by Joyce | June 29, 2008
oh, this is very exciting. i will look into this product you mention above ($18 isn’t bad). I still am a bit scared to stat my hydroquinone- I have it and want to find a good time to start. Sounds like a fantastic ingredient. thanks for your great update.
Joyce- can I ask what products you have found to use with bearberry? thanks
Comment by sofi76 | June 29, 2008
Since there’s no mention of growing the berries or eating them, I assume bearberries aren’t very tasty to humans? This berry sounds like a cure-all for so many of my concerns. I’m starting to notice age spots appearing and I want to get rid of them fast!
Comment by Jianping | June 29, 2008
Hi Sofi76! I’ve been using a line from Avon called Avon Naturals Whitening. The cleansers, toner and creams have bearberry extract (Arctostaphylos Uva Ursi Leaf Extract). However, it may not be as potent as the Amazonia Skin Balancing Cleanser. For the cleanser, the bearberry extract was the 15th on the ingredient list. It was the 23rd for the day cream.
Comment by Joyce | July 2, 2008
thanks Joyce
I like Avon products-maybe I’ll check it out.
Comment by sofi76 | July 2, 2008