FutureDerm.com

Perspectives from a future dermatologist

Product Review: Aveda Green Science Skin Care

Although the question as to whether or not there are definite advantages for natural skin care is still open, Aveda’s new Green Science Skin Care makes a strong case for the natural side of things.  Aveda’s new line combines scientifically proven plant-derived ingredients with natural production methods (wind power!) and packaging to create a truly effective, yet earth-savvy, skin care line.

The active ingredients in the Green Science line include argan oil, which has received a lot of media attention because of its fair trade deal with the Targanine Cooperative, However, according to experts cited in Elle, magazine (June 2008), argan oil has three times the amount of antioxidant vitamin E found in olive oil.  Further, Pat Peterson, the executive director of research and development for Aveda, tells the magazine, “The antioxidants and fatty acids work synergistically to stop inflammation.”  According to Aveda’s in-house clinical tests, subjects showed a 38 percent improvement in lines after eight weeks of using the Green Science cream.

A second key ingredient in Aveda Green Science skin care, plai oil, has been cited in this 2003 report as having antioxidant and tyrosinase inhibition activity.  A second study in Phytotherapy Research demonstrated that plai oil may have antimicrobial activity as well.  This indicates that plai oil shows promise as a natural anti-aging skin care ingredient, though additional studies need to be conducted to determine just how much promise.  Aveda further stresses that its plai oil sources are from rural and indigenous farmers in Thailand.

Other natural ingredients in the Aveda Green Science line include organic cactus, which shows some promise as a collagen production stimulant, glucosamine, which increases skin’s brightness somewhat, and boswellia, a natural anti-inflammatory.

Overall, if someone is committed to using only natural skin care, then Aveda Green Science Skin Care is a great way to go, as the ingredients are well-established for all-natural ingredients, the packaging is 100% post-consumer recycled PET jar, and even the manufacturing is 100% all-wind power.  Just one caveat: with a list of ingredients this extensive, those with extremely sensitive skin may want to use the product with caution (or at least try it from a merchant with a forgiving return policy).  All in all, though, an excellent line, one I give a solid 9/10. 

 

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July 8th, 2008 Posted by futurederm | Anti-Aging Treatments, Best Products, Best Products, Natural Products | one comment

Spotlight On: Moringa

Moringa is more than just a fun word to say…(aaaaaaay Moringa!), it is also an incredible new ingredient for skin care fanatics. According to the August 2008 issue of Lucky magazine, the flowers, leaves, and roots of moringa are edible and the oil of moringa is “an amazing moisturizer and antioxidant…it leaves hair shinier, skin soft and hydrated.”

Science validates the claims about moringa. According to this 2007 French study, moringa has hydrating and antioxidant properties that make it beneficial for the skin and the hair. This 1996 study in Plant Physiology and Biochemistry suggests that moringa oil may have some anti-tumor growth activity, an amazing property moringa shares with many other antioxidants. And moringa’s anti-carcinogenic activity was again suggested in this 2003 study.

While moringa is available in numerous products, here are a few of my favorites:

  • The Body Shop Body Butter in Moringa ($20.00, Amazon.com). A shea butter formula complete with a fairly good concentration of moringa, I love the dual hydrating properties!

  • Fresh In-Flight Face Kit with Moringa ($130.00, Amazon.com). A kit that keeps skin fresh, hydrated, and shielded from free radicals all through those oh-so-drying flights (recycled air, gross!). Best of all, the small bottles are easily transported, and the mask doesn’t need to be rinsed off! Loooove it!

For more on natural extracts, please visit the following pages:

Don’t forget to comment - each comment counts as 1 entry in the FutureDerm.com and Spin Lash giveaway, to be held tomorrow at noon!

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July 6th, 2008 Posted by futurederm | Anti-Aging Treatments, Antioxidant Treatments, Product Reviews | 2 comments

What Your Mother Never Told You About That Scar…

(This is not me.  Thanks.)

1…Massage it when it’s new, according to Dr. Zoe Draelos, M.D., renowned North Carolina-based dermatologist. Draelos tells Self, “When a wound is pinkish in color as it heals, you can minimize the chances of a scar by gently massaging it…the stimulation helps align the collagen underneath the blemish for a less noticeable mark.” Who knew?

2. Consider silicone gel sheeting. According to a 2007 review in the Aesthetic Surgery Journal, silicone gel sheeting is the only form of treatment effective against hypertrophic (raised) scars. The study considered popular treatments like Mederma, adhesive tape, and polyurethane, and concluded that only silicone gel sheeting has conclusive evidence for being effective in the treatment of raised scars. Who knew?

3. Avoid vitamin E. It is well-known that vitamin E thins the blood, aiding in circulation. Unfortunately, this property of vitamin E may interfere with healing. According to a 2007 story in The New York Times, vitamin E was found not to have any healing properties by researchers at the University of Miami. In fact, in some cases, vitamin E induced contact dermatitis in patients, making matters worse. (In other words, stick with an aloe cream, gentle massage, and silicone gel sheeting.)

4. Choose the right concealer color. According to Dr. David E. Bank’s Beautiful Skin, if the scar is blue/purple, use a mauve color concealer to prime the area, and then follow with concealer or foundation. If the scar is the same color as your skin, take caution to use a concealer and foundation exactly the color of your skin. According to Dr. Bank, “Anything lighter will highlight the imperfection.” Makes sense, now that you mention it…

5. Consider the pulsed dye laser (administered by a licensed dermatologist). According to Dr. David E. Bank’s Beautiful Skin, treatment with the pulsed dye laser is efficient, and can reduce the appearance of raised scars and stretch marks, although it is most effective when the area is still pink.

Overall, take care of your scars when they are new, and your investment of time and effort will pay off for years to come. :-) Of course, it’s never to late to start, so be sure to start with gentle massage, aloe cream, silicone gel sheeting, and consulting with a dermatologist about probable laser treatments. :-)

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July 4th, 2008 Posted by futurederm | General Cosmetic Dermatology | one comment

Quick Question: Why Did the FDA Ban Eyelash Growth Extender?

Photo source: Beaut.ie

A good question.  According to reports by the FDA issued in February 2008, 12682 applicator tubes of the original formulation of Jan Marini Intervention Eyelash (about $2 million in product) was seized due to the product’s inclusion of bimatoprost.  According to the FDA, exposure to bimatoprost increases pressure within the eye (intraocular pressure) in some patients, and may result in macular edema (swelling of the retina) and uveitis (inflammation in the eye), which may lead to decreased vision.  Not good, to say the least.  However, Jan Marini Cosmetics maintains that the new formulation of its eyelash conditioner, started in 2007. does not contain bimatoprost.

I personally used the original formulation of Jan Marini Intervention Eyelash back in the day, and it made a tremendous difference.  (I have also used the new bimatoprost-free version, and unfortunately found it not to be nearly as effective.)  Luckily for me and other short-lashed sistas, Botox manufacturer and pharmaceutical giant Allergan announced on June 4 that it is seeking FDA approval of bimatoprost for a new by-prescription only drug.  If the product is FDA approved, your dermatologist could issue you a prescription for the new drug as early as the end of the third quarter of this year.  Pretty exciting stuff, although I do not know how Allergan plans to get around the FDA with the known disastrous side effects of bimatoprost.  I will keep definitely you posted on new updates!

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July 3rd, 2008 Posted by futurederm | Controversy, Cosmetic Dermatology News | one comment

Product Review: Bioelements Recovery Serum

I don’t usually use a makeup primer (hey, I’m 23, I usually figure, why bother?).  At the same time, however, I was lured when I recently discovered Bioelements Recovery Serum for Dry to Normal Skin ($62.00, Amazon.com), and addicted after.  The product made my sensitive/normal skin appear very smooth and dewy, even under make-up.

The secret to Bioelements Recovery Serum is similar to yesterday’s Boots No. 7 Restore and Renew Serum: that is, heavy on the silicones.  Bioelements Recovery Serum features cyclopentasiloxane and dimethicone in very high concentration.  And similar to Boots No. 7 Restore and Renew Serum, the effects of the serum are primarily for hydration and cosmetic purposes.  While Bioelements Recovery Serum does contain ceramide 3, soothing chamomile, and calming lavender extract, the Journal of European Dermatology and Venearology has questioned whether ceramide 3 has long-term barrier repair effects, and chamomile and lavender are both found in very low concentration.

When applying Bioelements Recovery Serum, the smell is identical to Vicks VapoRub, at least to me.  The consistency of Bioelements Recovery Serum is thick due to the silicones, and takes about 1-2 minutes to drink in fully (I personally brush my teeth as it sinks in).  Finally, it is hard to use a sunscreen under or over this primer, so I recommend Bioelements Recovery Serum as a make-up primer at night - not during the day.

Overall, however, Bioelements Recovery Serum is truly an excellent product and I will use it every night I leave the house!  :-)  Overall rating: 8/10

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July 1st, 2008 Posted by futurederm | Product Reviews | 2 comments

Product Review: Boots No. 7 Restore and Renew Serum

According to some sources, like the July 2008 issue of Oprah magazine, for instance, women can’t get enough of Boots No. 7 Restore and Renew Serum ($21.99, Amazon.com).  Previously only available in Great Britain, Americans are loving the hydrating and smoothing texture of this serum.

Unfortunately, there is good news and bad news.  The good news is that Boots No. 7 Restore and Renew Serum is incredibly hydrating - the very high concentration of silicones (cyclopentasiloxane, dimethicone, and cyclohexasiloxane) will hydrate the skin, fill in fine lines and wrinkles, and give the skin a smoother appearance overall.  That’s the good part.

The bad part is that Boots No. 7 Restore and Renew Serum is not really an effective anti-aging product in the long run.  While it is true that almost any hydrating moisturizer will provide some benefit in the long run, there aren’t really any restoring or renewing ingredients in proven concentrations in Boots No. 7 Restore and Renew Serum, or any new or exciting technology, for that matter.  There is a small unknown concentration of vitamin C as sodium ascorbyl palmitate, which will brighten the skin and act as an antioxidant, as well as retinyl palmitate, which will increase cell turnover, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and smooth the skin.

Overall, I love h of Boots No. 7 Restore and Renew Serum as a cosmetic primer, but the key word here is cosmetic.  For your best skin in the long run, use it in conjunction with a good retinol/retinyl palmitate, antioxidant(s), niacinamide, and, of course, sunscreenProduct rating: 6/10 (High concentration of well-established ingredients: 1.5/3.  New technology: 1.5/3.  Value for the money: 3/3.  Sunscreen: 0/1).

Ingredients in Boots No. 7 Restore and Renew Serum

Cyclopentasiloxane; Aqua (Water, Eau); Butylene Glycol; Dimethicone Crosspolymer; Cyclohexasiloxane; Glycerin; Dimethicone Copolyol; Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate; Polysorbate 20; Magnesium sulfate; Phenoxyethanol; Sodium PCA; Retinyl Palmitate; Methylparaben; Propylene Glycol; Lupinus Albus Seed Extract; Carbomer; Butylparaben; Ethylparaben; Propylparaben; Isobutylparaben; Panax Ginseng Root Extract; Morus Alba Leaf Extract; Tocopherol; Palmitoyl oligopeptide; Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-3

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July 1st, 2008 Posted by futurederm | Product Reviews | no comments

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