Dermatological medicine has hit over-the-counter once more: aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrex GLY, a clinical-grade ingredient found in prescription deodorant/anti-perspirant formulations, is now sold in Secret Clinical Strength Deodorant/Anti-Perspirant ($8.99, Amazon.com). The ingredient is available in 20% anhydrous concentration in the product, which is lower than in prescription-grade formulations, and combined with conditioning ingredients to be less irritating than their clinically recommended counterparts.
As with other aluminum-based deodorants, the aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrex GLY in Secret Clinical Strength Deodorant/Anti-Perspirant works in two ways: one, its capsules clog pores (preventing moisture release) and two, it absorbs moisture from non-clogged pores (hence preventing malodorous-ness, as bacteria breakdown sweat and release a scent). The net result? Dryness.
As with many skin care ingredients, there has been concerned raised on the web as to the safety of aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrex GLY. In this case, it is due to the fact that the metal, aluminum, has been identified as a neurotoxin in this 1989 study in Neuroscience and Biobehavioral Reviews, amongst others. However, aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrex itself has not been found in any clinical studies to be correlated with a higher incidence of any disease, at least not in any studies I could find. I will keep you posted if any arise to my knowledge.
When applied at night, Secret Clinical Strength Anti-Perspirant keeps you dry all throughout the day, and I highly recommend it to anyone who suffers from heavy perspiration. I’d definitely give it a try! Product rating: 8/9. (High concentration of active ingredients: 3/3. New technology: 3/3. Value for the money: 2/3 (some deodorants carry aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrex GLY and are cheaper, but designed for men, like Mitchum). Sunscreen: N/A).
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September 30th, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Best Products, Best Products, Cosmetic Dermatology News |
4 comments
Just when I think my morning routine couldn’t get any faster (10 minutes now, thankyouverymuch), my awesome friend Robin introduces me to Avon In a Wink Eyeshadow ($9.00 for 14 applications, Amazon.com). All you have to do is remove the plastic cover sheet, close your eye, apply to your eyelid, and rub. And presto! Your eyeshadow is applied! Then you can use your fingers to blend.
The sheets work very well, and rave reviews are also available from other users on Avon.com. Overall, I am very pleased with this product! One caveat: apply it to dry skin, as it will not transfer well if your skin is moist or dewy. At any rate, a great find!
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September 21st, 2008
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futurederm |
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Dear Reader,
My apologies, but I am taking a week to concentrate on my schoolwork through September 22 (the date of my next exam in anatomy). I will return on September 22 with all-new posts, and I will be sure to make them well-researched and well-thought. 
If you are a sponsor, your advertising period has been extended through this time.
I am also still working on problems with a recent giveaway, so if you are a winner, and you know who you are, please stay tuned. I am still working for you
That is all for now. Thank you to everyone for being so kind and understanding while I get used to my new schedule.
Love, <3
Nicki
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September 21st, 2008
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futurederm |
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The newest from Bath and Body Works’ skin care phenom is the Dr. Patricia Wexler 3-in-1 Day Cream SPF 30 ($42.50, BathAndBodyWorks.com). The cream features three different ingredients to strengthen the skin (Niacyl), inhibit the activity of harmful matrix metalloproteinases that degrade collagen (MMP’s), and BVOSC, a new form of vitamin C that acts as an antioxidant. As an added bonus, the cream features a broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 that makes it great as a stand-alone morning cream.
The research behind MMPi’s has been validated, and Dr. Wexler’s line is especially great in that it features MMPi technology to inhibit MMP’s and ultimately preserve collagen. According to Dr. Wexler, there are several substances that act as MMP inhibitors (MMPis): epigallocatechin-3-gallate (a derivative of green tea), retinoic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid (an omega-3 fatty acid), beta-carotene, DHEA (though this is controversial), polysaccharides, vitamin E, and vitamin C, and flavonoids. Research has shown all of these inhibit MMPs to some degree, but select products in Wexler’s line has been shown to inhibit MMP activity to a higher degree: in skin cells by more than 80%. That makes me, for one, a fan of Wexler’s MMPi technology.
Unfortunately, the research behind Niacyl and BVOSC is even less substantiated. While Niacyl is a derivative of niacin (vitamin B3), which has been shown to improve skin tone, hydration, and firmness with continued use over time as niacinamide, whether or not these same effects are demonstrated with the branded Niacyl remains to be seen. Furthermore, BVOSC is a form of vitamin C exclusive again to Dr. Wexler’s products. And while topically-applied vitamin C reduces the appearance of sunspots, preserves collagen, and increases the protection of sunscreen in some forms, it again remains to be seen whether or not BVOSC is as effective as vitamin C as ascorbic acid or ascorbyl palmitate.
As a result, I like Dr. Patricia Wexler 3-in-1 Day Cream SPF 30 for its inclusion of MMPis and sunscreen, but can’t say that I love the Niacyl or BVOSC, because there isn’t enough research substantiating it. At any rate, it’s a solid product that should preserve collagen and hence skin firmness with continued use over time. I give it a solid 8/10. (High concentration of effective ingredients: 3/3. Research-backed ingredients: 2/3. Value for the money: 2/3. Sunscreen: 0/1).
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September 16th, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Anti-Aging Treatments, Antioxidant Treatments, Best Products, Best Products |
3 comments
Skyn Iceland Arctic Brightening Serum ($65.00, Amazon.com) promises to act “like a time machine for your skin, helping to reverse the progression of stress-related damage…with adaptogen technology.” Since an adaptogen is merely a substance that helps the body rejuvenate itself after stress, many skin care products with active rejuvenating ingredients (antioxidants, chamomile, aloe, and the like) could be counted as having “adaptogen technology.”
So then what’s the secret behind Skyn Iceland Arctic Brightening Serum? The key ingredients are Arctic Root, Siberian Ginseng, Maral Root, and Black Tea. Arctic Root is another name for the herb Rhodiola Rosea. Although research on skin is limited, Rhodiola Rosea has been documented for years as to having cellular energy renewal properties, as mentioned in Life Extension Magazine. Siberian Ginseng has been noted in Immunopharmacology and Immunotoxicity for inhibiting the inflammation of mast cells in vitro, which is promising for inflamed or reddened skin. Finally, maral root is long established in Russia when used orally as a natural antioxidant, adaptogen (i.e., post-stress recovery aid), and tonic. Its use in skin care is not as well-established, and few reputable studies could be found.
My favorite ingredients in Skyn Iceland Arctic Brightening Serum, though, are actually the retinyl palmitate, tocopheryl acetate (vitamin E), and ascorbyl palmitate (vitamin C), which have documented, well-established effects against fine lines and wrinkles and in favor of cellular renewal.
Worth a try, buy, or a sigh? I’d give this one a big fat “try.” Although there are many key ingredients, the most well-researched ingredients are towards the middle of the ingredients list, indicating that they are not in particularly high concentration. Skyn Iceland Arctic Brightening Serum does, however, get a big fat thumbs-up for its unique and new formulation. Who knows? Maybe Arctic Root, Siberian Ginseng, and Black Tea are the anti-aging ingredients of the future. Until research matches the hype, though, I’m sticking to my usual routine. Product rating: 7/10 (High concentration of proven ingredients: 2/3. Unique formulation: 3/3. Value for the money: 2/3. Sunscreen: 0/1).
***************
Hi Dave,
Thank you for drawing this to my attention. I will actually copy and paste your message onto the comments of the blog, so that the future readers will all know that Rhodiola is not Arctic Root!
Thank you!
Sincerely,
Nicki
On Mon, Sep 15, 2008 at 11:16 AM, Dave Jensen
<djensen@proactivebio.com> wrote:
Hello Nicki,
Great blog.
Your Sept 8th report however had an error.
Arctic Root is not another name for Rhodiola. It is a commercial brand name, a trademark, of Swedish Herbal Institute, the developer of Rhodiola 35 years ago, for their Rhodiola rosea. Please, can you edit out the use of “Arctic Root”? Does this actually show up on the Skyn brand product label? Wow, what an error if it did! One company should not use another company’s trademarks.
Regards,
Dave
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September 8th, 2008
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Dear FutureDerm,
How come you never write negative reviews about products anymore? I enjoyed those.
-A fan from St. Louis
Indeed, Fan from St. Louis, you are correct: I have been really fortunate to come into contact with only the best products lately. And with limited time, I have been trying to feature the positive on my blog.
But not today! Here are four skin care products that should be avoided at all costs:
1. Apricot scrub.
A number of skin experts, including Barbara Close, author of Pure Skin: Organic Beauty Basics and renowned spa expert, note that apricot scrub is harsh for the skin. The reason is that the apricot granules tend to have rough edges, being more angular than round. When apricot scrub is applied roughly, it can actually rip, or at the very least stretch, the pores. For this reason, it is best to stick with dermatologist-administered microdermabrasion or a different scrub, like my personal favorite, NIA 24 Physical Cleansing Scrub ($26.50, Amazon.com).
2. Benzoyl peroxide as anything but an on-the-spot treatment.
Benzoyl peroxide is often applied topically to the skin to kill P. acnes, the form of bacteria associated with approximately 40 percent of acne. Benzoyl peroxide has been found by Nacht et. al. to kill bacteria by generating reactive oxygen species in the sebaceous follicle. However, because benzoyl triggers free radical formation, its use should be limited to the spot of the comedone as much as possible. Therefore, facial cleansers and moisturizers containing benzoyl peroxide should be avoided, unless recommended otherwise for some reason by your personal dermatologist.
3. Lip gloss without SPF.
According to Dr. Christine Brown, a dermatologist at Baylor University Medical Center in Dallas, “These lip glosses can make more of the light rays penetrate directly through the skin instead of getting reflected off of the skin’s surface.” Which, at worst, can lead to “…the degeneration of collagen and elastin — which leads to a loss of lip fullness and increased lines — and an increased risk of skin cancer,” according to Dr. Leslie Baumann, Chief of the Department of Cosmetic Dermatology at the University of Miami and author of The Skin Type Solution. In other words, for better lips tomorrow, stick to a lipstick or gloss with SPF today. My favorites include Clinique Moisture Surge Lipstick SPF 15 and Neutrogena Moisture Surge Lipgloss with SPF 20 ($12.00 for two, Amazon.com).
4. Self-tanning treatments.
Most self-tanners work by using dihydroxyacetone (DHA) as the main ingredient. According to a report from The Danish Ministry of the Environment, DHA reacts with amino acids and amino groups during the formation of melanoids (pigments), on the outermost layer of the skin (stratum corneum); the next stages involve amine reaction with keto- (i.e, a compound with a C=O group) and aldo (i.e., a compound with an H-C=O group) compounds to form ketoimines and aldoimine. Which all sounds fine and good (and probably exciting to you organic chemists out there, haha).
Unfortunately, if you use self-tanner and then go out into the sun, you could be causing more damage: According to a 2007 study published in Germany, for 24 hours after applying a self-tanner containing DHA, the skin is more susceptible to free-radical damage once being exposed to the sun. And, as we know, free radical damage leads to premature wrinkling, sagging due to loss of collagen, and potentially age spots (amongst other forms of cellular damage). Although, to be honest, if you were seriously baking yourself in the sun, why would you need a self-tanner in the first place?
Therefore, for your best skin ever, in some cases, you may need to pay attention to what you are using as much as what you are not. :-) Feel free to comment on your best - and worst - experiences with products below! :-) And for more “worst” reviews, please click here.
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September 7th, 2008
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futurederm |
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Most of the time, exciting skin care ingredients are found in a plethora of different products. At first glance, Dermacia MD Foundation ($58.00, Amazon.com) is no different, providing popular ingredients like 6.65% titanium dioxide to provide a physical anti-aging sun shield for the skin and salicyclic acid to increase the skin’s absorption of other ingredients, prevent future breakouts, and refine the skin. However, Dermacia MD Foundation is unique in that it features a yeast extract that makes it oxygen-permeable. What’s the catch? According to renowned plastic surgeon Dr. David Rosenberg, M.D., “it can be used as early as three days after a procedure.” That is because the yeast complex actually delivers more oxygen to your skin than if you were wearing no foundation at all; hence, the foundation is actually beneficial for most skin after a cosmetic procedure!
That’s pretty exciting news, particularly when foundation and concealer can feel like nothing more than pain after many dermatological procedures. With the popularity of these procedures on the rise, I feel like we’re going to see way more of Dermacia MD Foundation in the future!
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September 1st, 2008
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futurederm |
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