Photo Credits: Skin Care Tips Originally uploaded by suzaned (flickr)
Recently, it has been found that using retinoids and an AHA (like glycolic acid) or BHA (like salicyclic acid) diminishes the effectiveness of both ingredients. So how can a patient still benefit from the potent anti-aging effects of each ingredient? To find the answer, I consulted with the site of Dr. Leslie Baumann, M.D., a practicing dermatologist and the co-founder and chief of the Cosmetic Dermatology department at the University of Miami School of Medicine. According to Dr. Baumann:
“Your question about order is a great one. Retinoids should not be mixed with BHA (i.e., salicylic acid) or AHA (i.e,. glycolic acid) because the BHA and AHA can inactivate the retinoid. Always use retinoids at night because the sun can also make the retinoid less effective.”
Dr. Baumann then proposes a skin care regime in which AHA/BHA products are used exclusively in the morning under a broad-spectrum UVA/UVB sunscreen, while retinoids are used exclusively at night.
Of course, as would be expected from Dr. Baumann, this makes perfect sense.
Daytime AHA/BHA Products
Please note that AHA/BHA do make your skin more sensitive to the sun, and hence more susceptible to UV damage. With that said, always use AHA/BHA under a broad-spectrum UVA/UVB sunscreen with SPF of at least 15 (I prefer 50+ myself), reapply frequently, and practice sun avoidance between 10 AM and 4 PM.
Some AHA or BHA products I like include MD Formulations Daily Peel Pads (with 10% of the AHA glycolic acid, $35.00, DermaDoctor.com); DermaDoctor Ain’t Misbehavin’ AHA/BHA Acne Cleanser ($35.00, DermaDoctor.com); and Paula’s Choice Exfoliating 2% BHA Lotion ($18.95, Paula’s Choice.com).
For more on AHA, please click here; for more on BHA, please click here.
Nighttime Retinol Products
Some nighttime retinol products to try include Neutrogena Healthy Skin Night Cream (with approximately 0.025% retinol, if I had to take an educated guess; $13.99, Drugstore.com); Afirm 2x (with 0.3% retinol, $35.00, Dermadoctor.com); Green Cream Level 6 (with 0.6% retinol, $43.00, Dermstore.com) and Skinceuticals Retinol 1.0 (with 1.0% retinol, $52.00, Drugstore.com).
Please note that the higher the concentration of retinol, the higher the risk of skin irritation. With that said, start with a small application every 2-3 nights, gently working up to nightly tolerance. And, of course, it is always best consult with your dermatologist before starting use of retinol or any other new skin care ingredient.
For more on the benefits of retinoids, please click here (Dr. Baumann’s blog).
Take care! J
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THANK YOU! I can stop searching! Finally some solid advice on how best to use these two treatments in a regular skincare routine. I have read lots of info (on various sites) on why not to use them together but until now I have been unable to find any info on how to use them both in a regular routine. Very much appreciated.
Thank you for this post! I have been using a toner with salicylic acid every morning and evening. At night, I alternate between a 5% benzoyl peroxide gel and Differin 0.1% gel. Now, I know that I should use Differin all by itself at night. Can I still use salicylic acid and benzoyl peroxide at the same time? Thank you again!
To answer the question about Salicylic acid and Benzoyl Peroside. Yes you can use them together in the morning. For example, the Obagi Clenziderm normal/oily skin kit has them in together which is what i use.
Great info but there is so much contradictory stuff out there. My derm actually tells me it’s ok to use my Retin-A with the AHA cleanser he’s recommended. I even asked him about my research about diminished effect when using together and he just scoffed and said it wasn’t true. I prefer not to use them together because my skin can’t take them both- yet!
Your article has prompted a good discussion on makeupalley.com….below is a link that was given to a scientific studies done in Switzerland… Could you comment please (either to my email or to makeupalley.com)
http://makeupalley.com/m_97633559
Thank you…
PS….can you also post what articles/scientific research journals that you read that support your position…I am sure the makeupalley group will want to know
I use Retin A every night and I use a AHA/BHA exfoliating cleanser about 2-3 times a week in the morning. Is this okay or is it diminishing the effects of both the Retin-A and the exfoliater? Thanks!
First off, great blog…very informative!
My nightly routine is cleanse, tone, serum, vitamin K spot treatment and moisturize my skin every night, religiously. I use Jason Vitamin K on my cheeks and under eye areas and it have helped my broken capillaries and dark circle considerably…love it! Btw, you can visit my blog for review on this (beautifulcanvas.blogspot.com). Anyway, I want to add Vitamin A eye cream to address the lines under my eyes. I feel like this is a lot of layering…something gotta give. Should I drop serum when I use retinols OR keep the serum and alternate between the Jason Vitamin K and retinols?