Photo Credits:  Skin Care Tips Originally uploaded by suzaned (flickr) 

Recently, it has been found that using retinoids and an AHA (like glycolic acid) or BHA (like salicyclic acid) diminishes the effectiveness of both ingredients.  So how can a patient still benefit from the potent anti-aging effects of each ingredient?  To find the answer, I consulted with the site of Dr. Leslie Baumann, M.D., a practicing dermatologist and the co-founder and chief of the Cosmetic Dermatology department at the University of Miami School of Medicine.  According to Dr. Baumann:

 

“Your question about order is a great one. Retinoids should not be mixed with BHA (i.e., salicylic acid) or AHA (i.e,. glycolic acid) because the BHA and AHA can inactivate the retinoid. Always use retinoids at night because the sun can also make the retinoid less effective.” 

 

Dr. Baumann then proposes a skin care regime in which AHA/BHA products are used exclusively in the morning under a broad-spectrum UVA/UVB sunscreen, while retinoids are used exclusively at night.

 

Of course, as would be expected from Dr. Baumann, this makes perfect sense.  

 

Daytime AHA/BHA Products

Please note that AHA/BHA do make your skin more sensitive to the sun, and hence more susceptible to UV damage.  With that said, always use AHA/BHA under a broad-spectrum UVA/UVB sunscreen with SPF of at least 15 (I prefer 50+ myself), reapply frequently, and practice sun avoidance between 10 AM and 4 PM.

 

Some AHA or BHA products I like include MD Formulations Daily Peel Pads (with 10% of the AHA glycolic acid, $35.00, DermaDoctor.com); DermaDoctor Ain’t Misbehavin’ AHA/BHA Acne Cleanser ($35.00, DermaDoctor.com); and Paula’s Choice Exfoliating 2% BHA Lotion ($18.95, Paula’s Choice.com).  

 

For more on AHA, please click here; for more on BHA, please click here.

 

Nighttime Retinol Products

Some nighttime retinol products to try include Neutrogena Healthy Skin Night Cream (with approximately 0.025% retinol, if I had to take an educated guess; $13.99, Drugstore.com); Afirm 2x (with 0.3% retinol, $35.00, Dermadoctor.com); Green Cream Level 6 (with 0.6% retinol, $43.00, Dermstore.com) and Skinceuticals Retinol 1.0 (with 1.0% retinol, $52.00, Drugstore.com).  

Please note that the higher the concentration of retinol, the higher the risk of skin irritation.  With that said, start with a small application every 2-3 nights, gently working up to nightly tolerance.  And, of course, it is always best consult with your dermatologist before starting use of retinol or any other new skin care ingredient.

 

For more on the benefits of retinoids, please click here (Dr. Baumann’s blog).

 

Take care!  J

About Author

Founder and CEO Nicki Zevola started FutureDerm as a medical (M.D.) student studying to be a dermatologist. She is an award-winning scientific researcher and writer. She currently is concentrating on FutureDerm and developing FutureDerm's one-of-a-kind products. She can be found on Google+ and Twitter.

View all Nicki Zevola posts.

1. 

   Emma

   June 19, 2009 at 9:52 pm

   THANK YOU! I can stop searching! Finally some solid advice on how best to use these two treatments in a regular skincare routine. I have read lots of info (on various sites) on why not to use them together but until now I have been unable to find any info on how to use them both in a regular routine. Very much appreciated.

2. 

   Joyce

   June 23, 2009 at 5:29 am

   Thank you for this post! I have been using a toner with salicylic acid every morning and evening. At night, I alternate between a 5% benzoyl peroxide gel and Differin 0.1% gel. Now, I know that I should use Differin all by itself at night. Can I still use salicylic acid and benzoyl peroxide at the same time? Thank you again!

3. 

   KG

   July 11, 2009 at 6:27 am

   To answer the question about Salicylic acid and Benzoyl Peroside. Yes you can use them together in the morning. For example, the Obagi Clenziderm normal/oily skin kit has them in together which is what i use.

4. 

   sofi76

   July 14, 2009 at 9:03 am

   Great info but there is so much contradictory stuff out there. My derm actually tells me it’s ok to use my Retin-A with the AHA cleanser he’s recommended. I even asked him about my research about diminished effect when using together and he just scoffed and said it wasn’t true. I prefer not to use them together because my skin can’t take them both- yet!

5. 

   mu2 (name on makeupalley)

   July 31, 2009 at 4:43 pm

   Your article has prompted a good discussion on makeupalley.com….below is a link that was given to a scientific studies done in Switzerland… Could you comment please (either to my email or to makeupalley.com)

   http://makeupalley.com/m_97633559

   Thank you…

6. 

   mu2 (name on makeupalley)

   July 31, 2009 at 4:47 pm

   PS….can you also post what articles/scientific research journals that you read that support your position…I am sure the makeupalley group will want to know

7. 

   Ramona

   August 21, 2009 at 7:10 am

   I use Retin A every night and I use a AHA/BHA exfoliating cleanser about 2-3 times a week in the morning. Is this okay or is it diminishing the effects of both the Retin-A and the exfoliater? Thanks!

8. 

   BD

   August 26, 2009 at 3:29 pm

   First off, great blog…very informative!

   My nightly routine is cleanse, tone, serum, vitamin K spot treatment and moisturize my skin every night, religiously. I use Jason Vitamin K on my cheeks and under eye areas and it have helped my broken capillaries and dark circle considerably…love it! Btw, you can visit my blog for review on this (beautifulcanvas.blogspot.com). Anyway, I want to add Vitamin A eye cream to address the lines under my eyes. I feel like this is a lot of layering…something gotta give. Should I drop serum when I use retinols OR keep the serum and alternate between the Jason Vitamin K and retinols?

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10. 

    Dr. Mathew Smith

    March 26, 2011 at 9:59 pm

    There are newer companies launching salicylic acid products mixed with retinol that are stable and eqaully active in the skin. What Leslie talks about above was quite a while ago.

11. 

    Divine

    March 18, 2012 at 11:57 am

    I use AHA facial wash every morning and before bedtime. After washing in the morning with AHA I apply rejuvenating cream and sunscreen. In the evening I wash my face with AHA again and applied retinoid acid cream. Is their any side effect to used both of them everyday? Are their effectiveness in the affected or less effect to the skin? Thank you …

12. 

    NDO

    April 5, 2012 at 5:49 pm

    Completely inaccurate.

13. 

    futurederm

    April 11, 2012 at 6:45 pm

    @NDO – Why do you say that?

14. 

    Jamie

    April 23, 2012 at 4:25 pm

    First, I want to say that I really like your blog. I enjoy reading your article posts all the time. Thank you very much for your service.
    I have question for you, regarding using Tazorac, Glycolic acid serum and C serum.
    I start using Tazorac about 3 weeks ago because I start breaking out crazy after stop taking birth control pills. As reading all the posted from you site, it seems like that I can still use Glycolic acid serum in the day time and use Tazorac at night, if I am correct. Could I also switch with Glycolic and C serum in the daytime? Also, could I use Beta Hydroxy acid during the time I use Tazorac? I did it couple days ago only about 2 mins. and my face have many little brown scabs all over!! Oh man oh man, it scared me. I really need some answer from you. Thank you!

15. 

    Catia

    May 4, 2012 at 9:20 pm

    Hello,

    Since you are saying you should never use together retinoids and AHA/BHA what do you think about peter thomas roth unwrinkle nihgt (wich combines them both)? Is it worth my money or will it not work or worse will it damage my skin?
    P.S: I love your blog, It’s really helpfull.

16. 

    sean

    June 10, 2012 at 4:28 am

    hi,i been use vichy normaderm (cleanser,toner,moisturizers) ,i been so concern if product above is safe to use with retin-a at night?thank you

17. 

    Kelly

    July 14, 2012 at 9:38 pm

    Hi,

    If I use AHA for a week at night and use salicylic acid on the alternate week at night. Will this make either treatment less effective?

    Thank you!

18. 

    Nicki

    July 15, 2012 at 5:58 pm

    @Sean – Just saw this comment now, sorry. Vichy Normaderm is fine to use with Retin-A. Truth be told, AHAs/BHAs still work with retinoids and vice versa, just not as well as if each were used alone.

    @Kelly – Nope! That’s an ideal strategy

19. 

    check It

    August 21, 2012 at 11:38 pm

    Very good post! We will bе lіnking to this great post on οur wеbѕite.
    Kееp up the good ωriting.

20. 

    Lauren

    November 2, 2012 at 9:37 pm

    Using a face wash with AHA in it is pretty pointless since it just gets washed down the drain, however, those types of ingredients need to be on the skin for a longer period of time to actually do their job. The upside of using that type of face wash (the only upside) is that you can use your retinol products with it, since the AHA is not left on the skin to interact with the retinoid.

21. 

    Kelly C.

    November 8, 2012 at 12:26 am

    Hi,
    I am currently using Peter Thomas Roth glycolic acid 10% moisturizer and i got some retin-a 0.025%. I am not sure if I should use them in combination since it seems that it will diminish their effectiveness? What are your takes on that?

    Also, will certain face washes make my face a bit itchy in combination of PTR moisturizer?

    Thanks!

22. 

    John Su

    November 8, 2012 at 4:26 am

    @Kelly C.

    I wrote a post on using acidic products with retinol here: http://thetriplehelixian.com/2012/09/10/part-ii-retinol-metabolism-contd-retinol-degradation-and-strength-combination-use-of-hydroxy-acids-and-retinol-v-0-03/ I’d recommend reading it. It should give you a much clearer understanding of this topic.

    Also, because the PTR moisturizer does thin the stratum cornuem due to the 10% GA content, you may be more prone to irritation. However, a cleanser could be irritating your skin all by itself depending on which ingredients are present in the formulation.

    I hope that helps. Thanks for reading!

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