According to Dr. Patricia Wexler, M.D. on Vogue.TV, “You have to select your [skin] problems…and act to treat those problems.”  That said, with Dr. Wexler’s new MMpi 20 Skin Brightening and Pore Refining Serum ($55.00, BathandBodyWorks.com) & Daily Defense Anti-Oxidant Tinted Moisturizer SPF 30 ($29.50, BathandBodyWorks.com), expect to treat hyperpigmentation and lackluster skin (increased brightness occurs with soy extract, acetyl glucosamine, vitamin C, and the serum’s Melaclear tyrosinase inhibitor), as well as prevent signs of future damage (with the patented Niacyl complex,as well as antioxidants and sunscreen). 

MMpi 20 Skin Brightening and Pore Refining Serum (shown above)

MMpi 20 Skin Brightening and Pore Refining Serum ($55.00, BathandBodyWorks.com) is a very solid product.  My favorite ingredient in the formulation is Melaclear,  a patented ingredient designed to treat hyperpigmentation by Sederma.  (A sister product is called Melaslow).  Like arbutin and hydroquinone, Melaclear works by inhibiting tyrosinase, the rate-limiting enzyme in melanin production.  Although a publicly available, non-company-affiliated study has not compared the efficacy of Melaclear to other hyperpigmentation treatments, my best hypothesis (and this is only a hypothesis!) would be that it has similar effectiveness to arbutin, and is most likely less effective than 4% hydroquinone.  

Still, MMpi 20 Skin Brightening and Pore Refining Serum also contains N-acetyl glucosamine, the patented Niacyl complex, soybean extract, and new stable form of vitamin C to increase skin’s brightness.  N-acetyl glucosamine has been established to make a statistically significant difference in hyperpigmentation, as reported in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology in 2009.  In addition, the potent combination of N-acetyl glucosamine (NAG) and niacinamide was recently shown to reduce facial hyperpigmentation in Japanese and Caucasian subjects with facial hyperpigmentation in two double-blind, vehicle-controlled, split-face, left-right randomized clinical studies.   It is likely that the patented Niacyl complex in this product has similar efficacy to the niacinamide used in the study, as niacinamide is simply the basic form of niacin.  The soy extract also treats hyperpigmentation and brightens: in this 2000 study in the journal Dermatology, human trials demonstrate lightening of hyperpigmentation after use of realistic concentrations of soybean extract for just two weeks.  Finally, the BVOSC vitamin C used in the product (tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate) has been proposed as a more stable form of vitamin C than the traditional L-ascorbic acid.  Vitamin C runs the gamut in benefits – from decreased hyperpigmentation to increased antioxidant protection to increased collagen production – and BVOSC has been shown in a double-blind, half-face study in Dermatologic Surgery to provide statistically significant benefits.  In other words, this product is a huge thumbs-up for treating hyperpigmentation.  

So what’s the problem with MMpi 20 Skin Brightening and Pore Refining Serum?  My only issue is with this or any other product that says “pore-refining.”  From what I have learned from dermatologists, it is not possible to change the size of your pores (hence, I guess why the product doesn’t say “pore-reducing.”)  At any rate, please do not use this or any other product expecting to see a change in the size of your pores.  While certain products may clean out your pores to make them appear smaller (try 2% salicyclic acid) and others may use alcohol to inflame the skin cells to make the pores appear smaller by contrast, nothing will actually reduce the size of your pores.  Just a side note.   

Daily Defense Anti-Oxidant Tinted Moisturizer SPF 30

My favorite ingredient in the Daily Defense Anti-Oxidant Tinted Moisturizer SPF 30 ($29.50, BathandBodyWorks.com) is the antioxidant concentrate NDGA.  Like Dr. Perricone consistently defines his products by inclusion of DMAE, Dr. Wexler appears to be the only dermatologist (at least that I know of) that is including NGDA in her products.  According to the journal Mutation Research, NGDA has potent antioxidant, antimutagenic, and anticarcinogenic activity.  NGDA exhibits its antioxidant activity by lipooxygenase inhibition, in a similar fashion to the antioxidant quercetin.  Unfortunately, it has been reported that some patients develop contact dermatitis after use of NGDA, so talk to your dermatologist to ensure your skin’s tolerance of the ingredient.  (Perhaps this is why the product includes Symcalmin, a patented ingredient to treat inflammation of the skin).  

Wexler Daily Defense Anti-Oxidant Tinted Moisturizer SPF 30 also contains other antioxidants (apple extract for one), soy extract, and the Niacyl complex.  My only wish for the product was that it contained more photostable forms of sunscreen: while Helioplex (avobenzone and oxybenzone) and Mexoryl SX/XL are touted by this excellent 2007 review for their photostability, it is unknown at this time how the combination of sunscreens in this product compare (i.e., homosalate 8.0%, octinoxate 7.0%, octisalate 6.0%, oxybenzone 6.0%, and titanium dioxide 1.0%).  Still, it is undoubtedly true that the product does contain reasonable sun protection.  

Overall Opinions

I’m a huge fan of Dr. Wexler, and I think that these two products are a testament to her knowledge, training, and willingness to incorporate new technology and rarely-used ingredients into effective and original formulations.  I give these very high marks!  Product Rating (Serum):  8.5/10.  (High concentration of proven effective ingredients: 3/3.   New formulation or technology: 3/3.  Value for the money: 2.5/3.  Sunscreen:  0/1.)  Product Rating (Moisturizer):  9.0/10.  (High concentration of proven effective ingredients: 3/3.  New formulation or technology: 3/3.  Value for the money: 3/3.  Sunscreen: 1/1).  

Also, if you wish to order Wexler products, sign up for EBates.com and receive 3% cash back from your order!  (Cash back is typically delivered as a check in 6-8 weeks.  Please visit EBates.com for more info.)