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An Apple a Day Keeps the Derm Away…For Longer?

  



That’s what the latest research from two companies, Skinceuticals and L’Oreal, seems to suggest.  The two companies actually reportedly came together for the development of Skinceuticals Phloretin CF, featuring new ingredient phloretin, an antioxidant compound that is naturally found in the flesh and skin of apples.   Preliminary research demonstrates that it is basically a super antioxidant that not only fights free radicals, but also protects against DNA damage and penetrates well into the skin.  According to Dr. Brenton B. Koch, M.D. in his blog, “This powerhouse formulation divides and conquers when it comes to damage at every level. Phloretin CF protects against not only free radicals, but the range of other reactive molecules known to cause damage and DNA mutations among integral cell types.  In addition, it corrects existing damage by stimulating the synthesis of essential proteins and fibers and accelerating cell turnover.”  Additional research in The Journal of Biological Chemistry shows that phloretin is an inhibitor of sugar transport amongst red blood cells, which holds some level of promise as to the role phloretin may play in AGE (Advanced Glycation Product) formation and the subsequent hardening of the skin’s collagen.  Research cited on the popular site TruthInAging.com also adds that the combination of vitamin C, ferulic acid, and phloretin found in Skinceuticals Phloretin CF has been found to provide significant protection against erythema (skin reddening), the production of thymine dimers (the most common DNA damage caused by UV radiation), the production of p53 (a protein induced when the DNA is damaged by UV radiation), and decreased levels of MMP-9 (an enzyme that attacks collagen in the skin).

On the other hand, Lancome (owned by L’Oreal) is taking a new stand with its own new Absolue Precious Cells ($145.00 for 1.7 oz., Lancome.com) skin care line.  Using apple lysate extract to protect against UV damage, Absolue Precious Cells also adds in the company’s patented Pro-XylaneTM (the company’s name for xylose, a sugar molecule derived from the beech wood plant).  Unlike other skin care ingredients, Pro-XylaneTM has been reported by researchers at L’Oreal to stimulate the skin to produce more glycoaminoglycans (GAGs), water-binding polysaccharides found primarily in the dermis (deeper layer) of the skin.  GAGs are believed to be important in skin aging because not only do they bind up to 1000 times their volume in water (giving skin a youthful, plush, moisturized appearance), but GAGs also may decrease naturally with age.  (This is still being debated – some studies, such as that by Pearce et. al, have conversely found no change in the amount of GAGs with aging).  At any rate, stimulating aged skin to mimic younger skin with the production of GAGs is a novel and promising  advancement, as Dr. Debra Jaliman states in the October 2007 Allure magazine: “The research is amazing. It proves that these products produce long-term results by boosting the skin’s production of GAGs, which are crucial in fighting aging.”  The other products in the line include the Absolue Precious Cells Advanced Regenerating and Replenishing Night Cream, suggested to be $165, while the eye contour cream retails at €79 for 15ml.

As such, apples may have some promise when it comes to your skin.  Of course, since apple extracts do not yet have the research backing of, say, other potent antioxidants, retinoids or sunscreen, I may wait for a bit before incorporating these products into my skin care routine.  After all, research has demonstrated that eating a healthy natural ingredient may be more beneficial than topically applying it to the skin.  With that said, I’m off to Whole Foods to get me some apples!  Product Rating:  Skinceuticals Phloretin CF:  7.5/10 (High concentration of proven effective ingredients: 3/3.  Unique formulation or new technology: 3/3.  Value for the money: 1.5/3.  Sunscreen: 0/1).   Loreal Absolue Cells Day Moisturizer: 7/10 (High concentration of proven effective ingredients: 2.5/3.  Unique formulation or new technology: 3/3.  Value for the money: 1.5/3.  Sunscreen: 0/1).

 

Image source (Flickr):  APPLE & ICE Originally uploaded by D`ART

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  1. Hima on Saturday 19, 2009

    Hi I used Phloretin CF by Skinceuticals. I love this product. But my question is Can I use this product around the eye. In the brochure it says avoid getting into eye but not to eye area.
    Can you please clarify this please. This is a great blog for skin and I am sending the link to all my friends. Thanks.

  2. futurederm on Saturday 19, 2009

    Dear Hima,

    I am so glad that you like the blog!

    I am a student, so I cannot tell you what to do for your skin, and I apologize. I can tell you that I personally have used the product around my eyes, but was always careful not to get the product into the eyes.

    Hope that this helps!

    Best,
    Nicki

  3. Gerti on Saturday 19, 2009

    It’s a pity Phloretin CF made my skin itchy and peeling. Must be the alcohol in it. I stick with CE Ferulic.

    Hima, I would not use it around the eyes. Although I avoided the eye area, my eyelids got irritated and peeled. The eye-cream I applied on top of the Phloretin CF must have transferred it to my eyelids. Be careful!

  4. Hima on Saturday 19, 2009

    Thanks a lot for quick response.
    I hope it is ok to use around eyes and on eye lids. Till now I have not used it around eye area but I will from now on. Thanks again, Hima.

  5. A on Saturday 19, 2009

    Hey Nicki,

    Congrats on moving to a new URL! I’ve been a big fan ever since I found out about your blog.
    I do have a question regarding a product though, and I hope you can help us out. i’ve recently discovered Boske Alchemist-C serum, and it seems to be exactly the same as Skinceuticals Phloretin CF, but cheaper!! I’ve had a glance at the ingredients list, but would you be able to do a full analysis before your die-hard fan goes off and buys Alchemist-C serum?

    This is a great blog for everything about skin :) Keep up the great work!

    Thanks!
    AC

  6. Ruben on Saturday 19, 2009

    The Alchemist-C serum is not the same as the phloretin CF but it is the same as CE ferulic (same concentrations).

    Back on the topic:
    I LOVE Ce ferulic but I ‘hate’ CF Phloretin! Phloretin gives me big pimples and cysts! However it does help more with pigmentation! i though it was the vit E first but I don’t have the problem with CE ferulic which helps my complexion and heals my skin very nice!

  7. futurederm on Saturday 19, 2009

    Hi Ruben,

    Thank you for the kind comments!

    Alchemist-C appears to have more alcohol (ethoxydiglycol) than CE Ferulic…but it does in fact appear to have the 15% L-ascorbic acid and 1% vitamin E and ferulic acid stabilizer. I don’t think that it seems to be that much less in price, so I like the CE Ferulic, but of course talk to your dermatologist. =)

    As far as the Phloretin CF goes, I’m sorry that you didn’t like it! I used it a few months back and really liked it, but in the end stuck with my retinol, coffeeberry, and hydrating wintertime moisturizer at night.

    Hope this helps…
    Best,
    Nicki

  8. Annemarie de Koning on Saturday 19, 2009

    Stop writing lies! Pro-Xylane is not xylose! It is a xylose derivative. The use of topical xylose to increase GAG synthesis is patented by LVMH. Go read US Patent 6,495,147 if you don’t believe me.

  9. futurederm on Saturday 19, 2009

    You are right in that pro-Xylane is a xylose derivative produced by the beechwood plant. However, Pro-Xylane does in fact contain xylose; it is a hybrid of xylose and other compounds.

    http://www.timesonline.co.uk/tol/life_and_style/health/features/article690392.ece

    btw, I’ve read your information on comments on other sites, Annemarie, and you know your stuff. Let me know if you’d ever be interested in doing a guest post =)

  10. Daniella on Saturday 19, 2009

    Thanks for entering me in the contest!

  11. Jane on Saturday 19, 2009

    Hey Hey Nicki,

    Firstly, I love your blog. Keep up the awesome work! I recently read about how much you love Green Cream, but alcohol (in the form of ethanol) is the SECOND ingredient. Shouldn’t I worry about this? Also, I came across Paula’s review of Green Cream, and she doesn’t have great things to say about it. I’m so confused!!!

    Have a look at Paulia’s link here: http://www.paulabegoun.com/2009/01/21/i-pissed-off-the-owner-of-green-cream/

    Yours
    Jane

  12. futurederm on Saturday 19, 2009

    Dear Jane,

    Thank you for the question.

    To be honest, normally I dislike products with a high content of ethanol, which can inflame the skin. However, I tried Green Cream, and due to its high content of retinol, I had really great results anyway.

    I personally like the product and give it good marks, but you’re right – most products with a high ethanol content (or any alcohol that is NOT cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, cetostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol 40, C12-15 alcohols, stearyl alcohol or lanolin alcohol) get a thumbs-down.

    Hope that this helps you -
    Best,
    Nicki

  13. Keli on Saturday 19, 2009

    This is my entry for your contest.

    Thanks !!

  14. Ruben on Saturday 19, 2009

    a quic note on the ethoxydiglycol:

    According to CIR:

    A number of product formulations containing these glycols at concentrations up to 21.4% have been tested in various human skin irritation and sensitization assays. The degree of irritation produced depended upon the particular product. There was no correlation between the degree of irritation and the concentration of the glycol present in the product. There were no reactions indicative of skin sensitization to these glycols in any skin sensitization assays and no suggestions of phototoxicity or photosensitization.

    But your right, it’s not much cheaper so stay with the CE ^^

  15. Josh Powell on Saturday 19, 2009

    I just thought I’d point out that L’Oreal owns Skinceutcals.

  16. vicki on Saturday 19, 2009

    hi nicki! i love your blogs on skincare. ive been using phloretin CF for the past 2-3 months bc of you. I simply love it!!! it makes my skin feel so tight and smooth. i even use it as night with a light moisturizer on top. It’s amazing but so costly. I get at my doctor’s office since I do not trust online stuff. Ive heard there are so many fake Skinceutical products out there. Have you tried the Retinol from Skinceuticals, is it good? Thanks so much for the advice and keep up the great work!