Perhaps I should have reviewed this yesterday in my “Best New Beauty Innovations of 2011″ post, but it was actually that very post that inspired one of my readers to draw my attention to DermaDoctor Photodynamic Therapy Moisturizer ($85.00, DermaDoctor.com) (and thank you!). The lotion is the first of its kind, requiring activation by UV light, which in turn causes the release of red-wavelength light into the skin. Pretty wild!
The Exact Technology
Even with a broad-spectrum sunscreen and diligent sun avoidance, UV light still manages to get through to your skin through your curtains while you’re sitting at home, car windows while you’re driving to work – you get the idea. According to DermaDoctor.com, this typically minute amount of UV exposure is enough to be absorbed by a specific polyphenol in Morinda Citrifolia Extract (Noni Fruit). By the law of conservation of energy, the molecule must convert this absorbed light energy into a different form – i.e., heat, increased kinetics (movement), and, most importantly, a focused red wavelength of light (648nm) – which happens to be equivalent to that of the red LEDs used in IPL laser treatments. (!) Encapsulating this polyphenol with an inert tricalcium phosphate particle creates a complex capable of transmitting the visible red light to the skin. (!!)
Clinical Results
It sounds almost too good to be true – a specific polyphenol in Noni fruit absorbs dangerous UV light and re-emits it as beneficial red wavelength light – but it apparently is so. According to data from DermaDoctor.com, after just one week of regular use:
- 96% of the participants said their skin appeared smoother;
- 71% of the participants said their skin appeared firmer and more radiant;
- 63% of the participants said that their skin appeared to have a more uniformed complexion;
- 50% of the participants said that their skin appeared to have less lines.
(After one week of use – Photo courtesy DermaDoctor.com)
This is not unlike (significantly more expensive) red-wavelength IPL therapy, which has been shown in the journal Lasers in Surgery and Medicine to create a significant decrease in wrinkles (26-36 percent) and an increase in elasticity (14-19 percent) over the course of 12 weeks. What can I say – I’m impressed!
DermaDoctor Audrey Kunin, M.D. Explains the Technology
On the Today show, Dr. Kunin explained the technology; here’s the video on YouTube:
Dr. Kunin on the Today Show with Photodynamic Therapy Lotion
Some Questions that Remain
Despite all of the great data surrounding DermaDoctor Photodynamic Therapy Moisturizer, some questions remain unanswered, such as:
- Does applying a heavier layer of cream result in more light release, and hence a more effective firming treatment? It seems that this would be the case; however, it would be interesting to know the optimal amount of cream to use for the greatest effects over time. (If I were manufacturing this product, I would encapsulate the cream into capsules, so that the desired amount was pre-measured and hence easy-to-use).
- How much cream is needed for documented results? (Typically, companies suggest a dime-sized amount, but was this the amount used in the trial?)
- How long does the effect last? Can it be reapplied for greater results?
Altogether, however, I think that this may be one of the most innovative product releases ever, and the preliminary data is rather astounding.
Overall Opinions
DermaDoctor Photodynamic Therapy Moisturizer may be the first moisturizer in seven years to temporarily tear me away from my beloved Skinceuticals CE Ferulic (although it is likely that the light rays would still reach the skin with a serum underneath, IPL phototherapy is typically conducted on clean, dry skin, and I want to get the full effect). Although a bit pricey, I’m going to order and use DermaDoctor Photodynamic Therapy Moisturizer for a month or two and assess the results versus my normal regimen. Stay tuned! :-)
Product Rating: 10/10
- High concentration of proven ingredients: 3/3
- Unique formulation or new technology: 3/3
- Value for the money: 3/3
- Sunscreen: 1/1
Coupon Codes
- Get 10% off at DermaDoctor.com with the code GRT10. (Hurry – Expires January 20, 2011)
- OR Get 10 free samples at DermaDoctor.com with the code 10SAMP. (Hurry – this one also expires January 20, 2011)
- After January 20, 2011? Get 5% cash back when you sign up with Ebates.com. Rebates take about four months to receive, but they actually send a check!
Have an experience with DermaDoctor Photodynamic Therapy Moisturizer or IPL therapy you’d like to share? Feel free in Comments below!
Wonderful coverage of an intriguing new skincare technology!
I so appreciate having your blog as a resource to keep me on top of these developments.
I would like to clarify one point for the non-skin professional readers, however. You mention that the UV rays that slip by the traditional sunscreen are converted to “a focused red wavelength of light (648nm) –which happens to be equivalent to that of the red LEDs used in IPL laser treatments.” I think it’s important to clarify that LED treatments are not the same as IPL treatments which are not the same as laser treatments.
LED treatments are the most gentle light-based version of phototherapy for the skin. The lights (Light Emitting Diodes – juiced up versions of the indicator lights on common electronics, which are used in those applications precisely because they generate very little heat) are warm but not hot, and presuming adequate eye protection, these treatments are virtually zero-risk and can be performed on any skin tone.
IPL treatments are the next step up in terms of results, but also in terms of risks. Individuals with the darkest skin tones must not be treated with these devices. Those with medium skin tones may experience unwanted pigmentation or burns if treatments are not performed correctly. There is moderate discomfort.
Laser treatments differ primarily from LED and IPL treatments in that laser light is collimated, meaning the rays are very nearly parallel – the light sticks together in a precise beam rather than spreading and diffusing across the treatment area. As a result, laser treatments are much more focused and with greater light energy per unit area, these treatments promise some of the most significant results, but come at the greatest expense and with the highest risk and downtime.
It is so exciting to hear that advances in skincare may mean extending the incredible benefits of light treatments into daily life! I can’t wait to hear how your trial goes. I do have one question – what color is the cream? It would seem to me that in order to absorb UV as described, it would need to be purple!
many many thanks for reviewing the photodynamic therapy lotion review for me… i will tear away from the revale skin coffeeberry night cream in order to try this one
we shall compare. i’ll tweet you again. janine
Interesting technology.
I went out and purchased this so I could try my own pilot program. As soon as I applied it, it occurred to me that this product has a fatal flaw: if you put a physical barrier on top of it (foundation, blush) the UV light is blocked. So today, I went without makeup. I’ll make it a week, but probably not a month.
I also question the efficacy – especially those before and after photos. Arguing that one week of RED light exposure will fix the firmness seems similar to arguing the converse in my mind. One week of raw sun exposure may cause a burn, but it will not cause instant crepeyness.
Diane, I hope you will report back on your trial. I also purchased this to do my own trial!
I’m also curious about this product, and purchased some to try. But I’m concerned because I usually wear SPF 60 (La Roche-Posay Anthelios), and this is only SPF 30. Yet it would seem that applying additional sunscreen over the product would decrease its efficacy. Ditto with foundation or primer that has SPF in it. I’ve searched all over the internet, but I can’t seem to find an answer to these questions.
Hello I love your blogsite and have been following you for awhile….keep up the good work. I am in the healthcare profession as a Hospitalist-Internal Medicine in Kansas City and have had the oppurtunity to meet Dr. Kunin and loved her site for years as was going through medical school and residency.
In terms of this suncreen I have to say its the best I’ve used and I use it as my daytime moisturizer…..and Im an african american male with oily skin…so finding a suncreen is a complete challenge…this works great!!!!!!! Oh and i have no endorsements or personal incentive from her, its just a great product.
In reference to results, I’ve seen a smoothing and softening of my skin. In addition I have seen an increase in evening of my complexion which is great. Wonderful, truly innovative product……..I would even say revoluntionary in the moisturizer/sunscreen arena.
I would not be without this prodoct or my Tazorac/Retin-A and thats saying alot.
In case this helps anyone. I contacted the Dermadoctor site. They recommend using the Photodynamic Therapy lotion first thing on the skin, but they said you could apply make-up over it without it affecting results. I, myself, do not understand how that is possible, but I thought I would pass the information along.
I know that this doesn’t have anything to do with the post, but on the bottom, you said that you use (and love) SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic, which I’m considering adding to my routine. But I’ve read many things about that antioxidants are really super sensitive to the air, and well, almost everything, and the dropper tip applicator that have this product is not exactly the best for an antioxidant serum, because leaves the antioxidants exposed to the air with every use.
Considering the price, I don’t want to spend $145 on a product that will be useless after a few applications.
Could you tell me if the applicator is the appropriate to remain the product stable until I finish. Did you noted that the product turn useless after a certain time? Really worth the money? and I mean, regarding to the package not to the product, because I know the product is quite good.
Well, I hope you can help me.
Thanks!
Eva
I’d have a hard time applying a creme this price liberally enough to get decent sun protection. Would you wear an spf over it?
Nicki,
I know you said you were going to try this lotion. I would love to hear an update on how it went. I am considering purchasing it.
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