I get a lot of requests to review products that a.) deliver results, b.) work quickly, and c.) cost less than an arm and a leg. That’s why I was really excited to try dermatologist-developed Azfasst ($19.99). A company sent it to me a while ago, and after trying it, I was like, “Wow!” The product makes your skin look smoother and clearer after just one use, without thinning the skin or drying it out.
The secret to Azfasst is its inclusion of 6% lactic acid. A popular alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), lactic acid can be naturally extracted from milk, but is usually synthesized in a lab for use in cosmetics in order to ensure its purity. Lactic acid’s smoothing abilities are similar to that of glycolic acid. However, many dermatologists prefer to use glycolic acid because it has a smaller chemical structure than lactic acid, allowing glycolic acid to penetrate the skin better. In fact, according one study, glycolic acid has been proven to increase skin firmness with regular use over time, while lactic acid does not do this.
So why do I love lactic acid? Simple: The advantage to lactic acid is that it does not temporarily thin the skin like glycolic acid does, according to the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology. This is particularly useful during the summer months, when UV rays are the strongest. Granted, glycolic acid will increase skin thickness over time, while lactic acid will not (source), but I personally choose lactic acid over glycolic acid and other agents that thin the skin – even temporarily – before flying, swimming, living and breathing in summer months, 
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I also love lactic acid because it is really hydrating. Proof of lactic acid’s humectant abilities is that one of the only prescription drugs FDA approved for dry skin, LacHydrin, has lactic acid (12%) as the main ingredient. Pretty impressive!
The other active ingredient in Azfasst is 2% salicyclic acid, a beta hydroxy acid (BHA) that softens keratin, a protein that forms part of the skin structure. This helps to loosen dry scaly skin, increasing cell turnover and effectively renewing the skin. A lot of people say that salicyclic acid helps other skin care ingredients penetrate the skin, which is simultaneously true and false. On the one hand, it’s true if you have very clogged pores, because salicyclic acid amongst the most effective over-the-counter agents in cleaning out the pores. On the other hand, if your skin is already clear, there’s nothing magical about the structure or function of salicyclic acid that will enable it to allow other skin care ingredients to penetrate more deeply.
So now that we’ve cleared that up…I love Azfasst, and I think that it’s one of the fastest, most effective skin care products I have tried – and I have used plenty. :-) Product Rating: 9/10 (High concentration of proven ingredients: 3/3. Unique formulation or new technology: 3/3. Value for the cost: 3/3. Sunscreen: 0/1).
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So, if glycolic eventually thickens the skin, and lactic doesnt, wouldn’t it be a good idea to just start using glycolic acid in early wintertime, so by the time you reach summertime, your skin has gained that thickens that will protect it from UV rays, and still have the advantage of the long term benefits of glycolic acid use?
I use Retin A on my face year round. During the summer I usually use it every other day rather than daily. Do you recommend still using retin A in the summer?
is it ok to use this in conjunction with other exfoliants such as tazorac?
Thick skin hasn’t been proven to be more protected from ultraviolet light. You can use retin A every night, or alternate with glycolic acid every other night… In the end it’s a good sunscreen that’s going to protect you against the UV rays, so wear that every morning, reapplying constantly after two hours if under UV exposure outdoors.
I have been using Retin A everynight since I was 18 and diagnosed with teen acne… I am 31 now and still wearing every night. I love retin A and haven’t skipped a night… many think I’m still 21.. I don’t know if it’s genetics, or the cream but I’m going to keep using it every night. Just wear a great sunscreen, either chemical or physical every morning, and be generous with the sunscreen. Be light with the retin A cream, some people over apply looking for immediate results, and It’s more of a long term investment… Good luck!