I love reading about Dr. Fredric Brandt, M.D.: he’s incredibly knowledgeable, he’s advice is normally spot-on, and c’mon, the man is called “The Baron of Botox!” He practically headed the cosmetic dermatology movement in the past decade and is impeccably glamorous to boot (Independent.ie).
So it’s hard for me to say that I’m not a huge fan of his new Dr. Brandt dark circles away™ collagen eye serum ($55.00 retail). The idea is that microencapsulated water molecules (Hydra APS) will hydrate, while microencapsulated plant extracts (Lumisphere™) will brighten, and collagen-stimulating ingredients (amino acids) will boost the firmness and thickness of the skin under the eyes over time.
The problem is these ingredients may not target symptoms for everyone. Although specific amino acid peptides and proteins have been shown to stimulate collagen production and hence skin firmness and elasticity over time, the process by which amino acids build skin is extremely complex, and slathering on products containing amino acids will not necessarily help the skin produce more collagen (The Encyclopedia of Skin and Skin Disorders, 2007). To be specific, the amino acids in Dr. Brandt dark circles away™ collagen eye serum (Glycine, Proline, Hydroxyproline, Alanine, Glutamic Acid, Arginine) have not yet been shown in independent peer-reviewed published research to stimulate collagen production when they are applied topically to human skin in vivo. Possible? Certainly – just not proven.
Lumisphere™
Another ingredient, Lumisphere™, also known as diacetyl boldine, also has limited – but somewhat more promising – research backing. Diacetyl boldine has been found to prevent skin hyperpigmentation by inhibiting pigment uptake and pigment production (Personal Care, 2009). Small studies overseen by Louis Rinaldi, the managing director of cosmetics development at Bremenn research labs, demonstrated diacetyl boldine to lighten pigmentation by 25% in test subjects who applied the ingredient daily for two months (Truth in Aging, 2005). However, not all dark circles are caused by hyperpigmentation. Some are caused by blood pooling under the eyes, whereas others are caused by a deep tear trough. Only dark circles caused by hyperpigmentation are likely to be helped by Dr. Brandt dark circles away™ collagen eye serum.
Do “The Test” to See if It Will Work For Your Hyperpigmentation
To determine the cause of your dark circles, do the following test, designed by dermatologist Dr. Heidi Waldorf, M.D.: Apply pressure using the pad of your finger to the circle or shadow under your eye. See which of the following occurs:
- If it disappears, your problem is due to blood pooling under the eyes, andInstant Age Rewind® The Eraser Dark Circles, with Haloxyl (releasing darkly pigmented bilirubin and iron from the blood under the skin) is likely to work for you.
- If the color doesn’t disappear, the darkness is caused by excess pigment. A product like LumixylTM, a potent tyrosinase inhibitor, would treat your existing dark circles better than Haloxyl.
- If the shadow forms at the inside corner of your eye, where a tear would flow, it’s probably due to a deep tear trough. It is best to see a dermatologist.
The Bottom Line
Dr. Brandt dark circles away™ collagen eye serum has the right concept in utilizing a three-part power punch against dark circles and puffy eyes: hydrate, brighten, and stimulate collagen. Unfortunately, there are active ingredients I like better, at least to brighten (namely retinol and vitamin K) and stimulate collagen (namely retinol, but also peptides, even niacinamide). Both retinol and vitamin K are found in products like Quintessence Under Eye Capsules ($65.00 retail). But if you’re determined to stick with Dr. Brandt products, I’d recommend his Time Arrest Creme de Luxe and Microdermabrasion Exfoliating Cream more than this eye serum. Product Rating: 6/10 (High concentration of proven effective ingredients: 1/3. Unique formulation or new technology: 3/3. Value for the money: 2/3. Sunscreen: 0/1).
Other Posts You May Enjoy
- How to Get Rid of Puffy Eyes << FutureDerm.com
- Spotlight On: Amino Acid Peptides << FutureDerm.com
- Dr. Brandt Time de Luxe Arrest Review << FutureDerm.com
- Dr. Brandt Dark Circles Away << Dr. Brandt Skin Care.com
- Does a $5 Moisturizer Have Any Benefit? (Featuring Dr. Brandt) << FutureDerm.com
Ingredients in Dr. Brandt dark circles away™ collagen eye serum
Water (Aqua), Glycerin, Triheptanoin, Caprylyl Trimethicone, Triisostearin, Titanium Dioxide, Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol, Pfaffia Paniculata Root Extract, Polysorbate 20, Lecithin, Sorbitol, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Germ Extract, Ptychopetalum Olacoides Bark/Stem Extract, Lilium Candidum Flower Extract, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Alcohol, Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, Sodium Polymethacrylate, Glycine, Proline, Hydroxyproline, Alanine, Glutamic Acid, Arginine, Trilaurin, Diacetyl Boldine, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phospholipids, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Oleic Acid.
