I’m normally averse to reviewing products that claim to repair DNA. For one, most skin care ingredients are incapable of reaching the nuclear membrane within the cell, where most of the DNA is encased. For another, even if these enzymes were able to reach the DNA, would we want our DNA to be affected?! So when I was first sent a sample of NEOVA DNA Total Repair, I was altogether skeptical.
First I did an interview with Dr. Helen Torok, who is affiliated with NEOVA. In an exclusive interview, Dr. Torok expressed her belief that the DNA enzymes in NEOVA DNA Total Repair help to promote the recovery process after prolonged sun exposure. Dr. Torok also noted that she does not believe applying DNA enzymes to the skin could be harmful, as she responded, “We cannot say with complete certainty [DNA enzymes do not cause damage] but most likely not. The DNA repair enzymes detect DNA damage, remove the damage and then assist the body’s own natural repair mechanisms in restoring healthy DNA. The body can do this on its own, but repeated sun exposure – whether or not a sunburn forms – lessens the skin’s ability to repair itself. The DNA repair enzymes help to promote the recovery process.”
Then I examined the active components in NEOVA DNA Total Repair, photolyase and endosomes, more closely. NEOVA DNA Total Repair has been shown in company-related trials to reduce UVB radiation-induced dimers by 45% and increased UV protection by 300% (source). Photolyase is derived from plankton, and can be identified on skin care products as plankton extract from Anacystis nidulans. Its job is to undo DNA damage in cells and prevent cell death caused by UV exposure. According to the text The New Science of Perfect Skin, liposome-encapsulated photolyase is delivered to the skin within an hour of application. It requires light for its activation, though any mild indoor light that passes through sunscreen should be enough for it to work properly.
On the other hand, endosomes are liposome-encapsulated and derived from the marine microbe, Micrococcus lysate. Extremely UV-resistant, endosomes intensify the skin’s reparative properties to speed recovery reaction and reduce the appearance of post-sunburn peeling.
Perhaps my favorite part of NEOVA DNA Total Repair is not the enzymes at all, but the ergothionene. In a 2007 study in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, L-ergothioneine was found to be more protective from free radicals than idebenone, with far less risk of skin irritation. It is also difficult to find; the only other skin care product I know of with L-ergothionene is Remergent Skin Clarifying Skin Brightener ($65.00, Remergent.com).
Even though DNA enzymes and ergothionene will stimulate UVB-induced repair, I like NEOVA DNA Total Repair as more of a preventative measure rather than a wrinkle or dark spot treatment. Although some users report improvement in wrinkles and age spots, I just don’t feel comfortable recommending a product to fight a particular complaint without there being blinded, controlled, randomized, peer-reviewed studies of its efficacy compared to gold-standards in anti-aging and hyperpigmentation treatments, like retinoids and hydroquinone, respectively.
With that said, NEOVA DNA Total Repair seems to be a great preventative treatment against future UVB damage, as it has been proven to enhance the DNA repair processes as they take place within the skin. NEOVA DNA Total Repair has a medium consistency and absorbs into the skin well, with an almost cooling sensation. Its fair silicone content (cyclopentasiloxane, dimethicone) allows for it to settle well under both moisturizers with sunscreen and make-up. I like NEOVA DNA Total Repair because I enjoy anything that boosts UV protection, so I’ll continue to use it for a while! Product Rating (for prevention): 8.5/10 (High or optimized concentration of proven ingredients: 2.5/3. Unique formulation or new technology: 3/3. Value for the money: 2/3. Sunscreen or sun-protection boosting: 1/1).
Ingredients in NEOVA® DNA Total Repair
Water (Aqua), Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Saccharide Isomerate, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), Pentylene Glycol, Dimethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane, Squalane, Evodia Rutaecarpa Fruit Extract, Micrococcus Lysate, Plankton Extract, Arabidopsis Extract, Ergothioneine, Algae Extract, Saccharomyces Ferment Lysate Filtrate, Cassia Alata Leaf Extract, Buddleja Davidii Extract, Pinus Pinaster, Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract, Panthenol, Allantoin, Bisabolol, Xylitylglucoside, Anhydroxylitol, Xylitol, Lecithin, Glycerin, Diglycerin, Polysorbate 60, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer, Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Camphor, Butylene Glycol, Hexylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Caprylyl Glycol, Phenoxyethanol.
