New skin care products are often like Seth Rogen movies: They somehow are popular, despite the fact each new release is basically just a slightly revamped version of the last one. Skinceuticals Phloretin CF® and AOX+® Eye Gels ($55.00, Amazon.com) are no exception, with the addition of inactive ingredients, designed to make the formulations thicker than the traditional liquid serum formulas.
What is curious about the new Skinceuticals Phloretin CF® Gel and AOX+® Eye Gel is that they are mildly more hydrating than the traditional formulas, with the addition of the humectant glycerin. Humectants absorb water, as hydrogen bonds form between the molecules and the air.
While both the gels and the original formulas contain the same assortment of active ingredients, I tend to like the original formulas a little better. Why? For one, the original formulas are slightly stronger on the skin. When you apply the original formulas, they are absorbed into the skin more rapidly, so you get the full strength of the ingredients. On the other hand, with the gel, you are experiencing a slower rate of absorption, as well as the effect of dilution as the humectants draw in water.
As a minor point, the original formula has a slightly more acidic pH, which has been associated with decreased transepidermal water loss and better skin hydration overall (Experimental Dermatology, 2006). I say the original formulas have a more acidic pH because the gels draw in water from the air, diluting them somewhat. So I don’t really find the original formulas to be drying, though the gels are still more hydrating.
My best suggestion? Use the new Skinceuticals Phloretin CF® Gel and AOX+® Eye Gel if you have dry skin, or are concerned about hydration in the coming winter months. Otherwise, I would stick to the originals! Given the choice, I simply think it’s best to get your concentrated treatments as full-strength as possible, and to use occlusive agents from other moisturizers.
Ingredients in Skinceuticals AOX+® Eye Gel
Aqua (Water), Ethoxyldiglycol, L Ascorbic Acid, Propylene Glycol, Glycerin, Zinc Sulfate, Phenoxyethanol, Ferulic Acid, Pathenol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyroxide
Hi! What a timely post. I just got my Phloretin CF Gel in the mail yesterday and started using it today for the first time! I had been using the Phloretin serum with good results, but wanted to switch to the Gel because (according to Skinceuticals) it has a lower alcohol content . I’ve heard that alcohol is potentially harmful to the skin because it generates free radicals. (Is this true!?!?) Anyway, so far I like the gel. I have very oily skin, but it tends to get dehyrated in the winter. It’s definitely more hydrating and my skin doesn’t sting as much as with the serum. Hopefully, it won’t break me out
@jubjub – What kind of alcohol is listed on the Phloretin CF package? I don’t have a package currently, and I can’t find the information anywhere!
Hi Nicki,
The alcohol is listed as “alcohol denat.”
Full list of ingredients: Water, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, alcohol denat., ascorbic acid, undecane, bis-hydroxyethoxypropyl dimethicone, dimethicone, caprylic/capric triglyceride, tridecane, phloretin, lauryl peg-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone, dimethicone/peg-10/15 crosspolymer, dimethicone/polyglycerin-3 crosspolymer, ferulic acid, sodium hydroxide, disodium EDTA, D41813/2
Hi Nicki!
Great article! However I was wondering; does the new pump-container for the Phloretin Gel bring any benefit to the product? I have always been hesitant to buy the old version of Phloretin CF because it comes in a bottle that leaves the contents exposed to oxygen each time you open it. I have read that over the couple of months you use the product, Vitamin C gradually becomes oxidized because you are letting oxygen into the bottle with your daily use. I was thinking that the new pump bottle of the Phloretin gel would therefore mean a more effective product, especially after 1-2 months, because the pump is completely sealed off from daily oxygen exposure… But you still recommend the Phloretin CF serum, even so? I would appreciate your thoughts; I’m so confused:( Thank you so much!!!!
@jubjub – Aw, thanks for sending the list! I really appreciate it! Yes, denatured alcohol, also listed on packages as SD Alcohol 40, ethyl alcohol, or rubbing alcohol, can be drying. However, many companies still incorporate it into skin care formulas because it helps the formulation absorb oil and penetrate into the skin better.
Alcohol consumption may cause free radical production in the body. When denatured alcohol is applied to the skin, it is a rubefacient, absorbing quickly and dissolving oil + bacteria on the skin along with it. Though some in skin care say that it induces free radical production, I find this hard to believe because it evaporates so quickly. I cannot find a study that demonstrates whether or not free radicals occur when rubbing alcohol is applied to the skin. My stance for the time being is no. I will let you know if this changes
@Elizabeth – That’s definitely a great consideration! I still would recommend the Phloretin CF serum for oily skin and the gels for dry skin. However, if you’re somewhere in the middle, then you’re absolutely right – I would choose the gel because of the airtight container.
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