Product Review: Cellese AnteAGE Serum & Accelerator

Cellese AnteAGE Review

Cellese AnteAGE: The newest in skin science?

Call me jaded, but after nearly five years of beauty blogging, new products rarely impress me anymore.  From claims of “youth gene repair” to “nanoparticle” delivery systems to the latest in luxurious packaging, I’ve seen it all.  Nowadays I typically pick up a product and immediately search for the ingredients label, which usually elicits a response somewhere between a “ew” or an “ah.”

Very rarely does something elicit a “Wow” response from me.

Cellese AnteAGE Serum and Accelerator ($280.00, Cellese.com) actually did.  Four of five of the top ingredients in the Cellese AnteAGE Serum are scientifically-proven anti-aging powerhouses, with the fifth being water!   What’s more, the Cellese AnteAGE Accelerator is a source of vitamins C and E, which have been shown to increase sun protection when worn under sunscreen.  Here, I’ll talk about some of the major ingredients, as well as my personal experience using the cream:

Mesenchymal Stem Cell Cytokines

It sounds a little like something out of a science fiction novel, having cytokines from stem cells in a cream, but it’s true.  Cellese harvests mesenchymal stem cells from adults and grows them in their laboratory facilities. The stem cell cytokines are then placed in the skin creams.

For those of you who are not science buffs, “mesenchymal” is a type of stem cell that is capable of growing, or differentiating, into a number of different cell types.  These cell types include bone cells (osteoblasts), cartilage (chondrocytes), and fat cells (adipocytes).   Within the body, mesenchymal stem cells deplete as you get older.  In fact, at age 15, one out of every 10,000 of the cells in your bone marrow are mesenchymal skin cells.  At age 50, only 2.5% of these cells remain.

“Cytokines” are cell-signaling molecules used in cell-to-cell communication.  The thought is, by using the cytokines produced by mesenchymal stem cells, skin cells will essentially be “told” to grow and divide faster, leaving you with younger-looking, more replenished skin.

The dermatological community has not conducted many studies on the effects of topically applying mesenchymal stem cells to the skin – yet.  However, there is promise in this arena.  Several studies, including one from the journal Tissue Engineering, suggest topical application of mesenchymal stem cells accelerates wound healing by increasing the skin’s production of fibrin, a protein associated with blood clotting.  A 2004 review from Stem Cells and Development further demonstrates the ability of mesenchymal stem cells to grow where they are planted, so to speak, as injection of the cells into the knee has been shown to “improve joint functionality and versatility.”

As far as in-house studies at Cellese go, these are in abundance.  One Cellese clinical trial revealed AnteAGE was effective in improving twelve parameters of skin health and appearance in 45 women and 4 men aged 30 to 75.  These twelve parameters were:

Cellese parametersPalmitoyl Oligopeptide

Readers are often asking me for the most potent peptide cream.  Of those I have examined, the Cellese AnteAGE Serum has one of the highest concentrations of palmitoyl oligopeptide.  Palmitoyl oligopeptide has been shown to significantly increase collagen production in human fibroblasts in a 2007 study in Dermatologic Therapy.  When used twice daily for a significant period of time – about six months – this means firmer skin, provided that other factors remain the same (i.e., weight, sun exposure, etc.).

Niacinamide

Niacinamide, also known as nicotinamide or vitamin B3, is a popular anti-aging ingredient in today’s skin care market.  If it sounds familiar to you, it is probably because about 2-4% niacinamide is one of the secrets to all Olay moisturizers.  So any time you hear one of the Olay commercials touting that their creams are as good – or better – than a $500 cream, niacinamide is likely the reason.

The dermatological community has many studies to back up niacinamide use.  According to a review from Bissett et. al., niacinamide reduces fine lines and wrinkles, hyperpigmented spots, red blotchiness, and skin sallowness.  The same review also found niacinamide use increases skin elasticity over time.

Niacinamide may also be helpful to those with rosacea or acne.  According to a 2005 study, niacinamide may help alleviate some of the symptoms of rosacea by increasing hydration and barrier function of the stratum corneum (the uppermost layer of the skin). Another study also reported that a 4% topical niacinamide treatment applied twice daily may help to treat acne by reducing inflammation with similar efficacy to 1% clindamycin gel. Amazing.  I estimate the Cellese AnteAGE line has about 4% niacinamide, amongst the highest on the market today.

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-7

For years, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 was known as palmitoyl tetrapeptide-3. (You say poe-tay-toe-7, I say pah-tah-toe-3, I suppose).

The best part of palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 is that it reduces inflammation within the skin.  In independent dermatological studies, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 has been found to reduce inflammatory cell-signaling proteins known as interleukins (Clinics in Dermatology, 1999).  By reducing inflammation, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 may potentially reduce the cumulative amount of damage that occurs following exposure to UV light, pollution, internal stress, and other pro-inflammatory stress factors.

Personal Use and Opinions

The serum is light but somewhat creamy – not a thin liquid like many alcohol-based serums.  As a result, it leaves skin feeling hydrated.  On the other hand, the accelerator is a lightweight lotion. The ingredients left my skin feeling soothed and less reddened, which was a welcome change.

My only caveat?  As with any product with retinol, some individuals are more sensitive and may require a period of adjustment.  I’ve been using retinoids for years, so I was fine.

The packaging is an airtight pump, which is much appreciated, given the fact that the cream contains a lot of antioxidants, including vitamin C as tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate.  While tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is more stable than L-ascorbic acid (the most commonly-occurring form of vitamin C in skin care) in the presence of light and air, it is still better to have it packaged in an airtight pump.

Bottom Line

I don’t usually do this, but I’ll go ahead and give the Cellese AnteAGE Serum and Accelerator my highest endorsement.  The set doesn’t even contain sunscreen, but the combination of high concentrations of niacinamide, peptides, vitamin C, vitamin E, and even the new technology of mesenchymal stem cell cytokines is a huge “wow” to me.

So much of a “wow,” in fact, that I’ve invited Dr. John Sanderson, M.D., one of the inventors of the Cellese AnteAGE line, to sign on to have our top banner in June, and to be a weekly writer for FutureDerm.com.  Judging from this product line, he clearly knows his skin science, and I thought FutureDerm readers would enjoy learning from his expertise.  (And don’t worry, he won’t be writing just about his own products every week!)  :-)

So what do you think about the new Cellese AnteAGE line?  Comments or questions?

Serum

Ingredients: Mesenchymal Stem Cell Cytokines, Water (Aqua), Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Niacinamide (Vitamin B3), Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, PPG-3 Benzyl Myristate, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Carnosine, Hydrolyzed Myrtus Communis (True Myrtle) Leaf Extract, Polyacrylate-13, Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Leaf Extract, Maltodextrin, Ilex Paraguariensis (Paraguay) Leaf (Yerba Mate) Extract, Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate, Polyisobutene, Phenoxyethanol (Preservative), Caprylyl Glycol (Naturally
Derived Preservative), Polysorbate-20 (Plant Derived), Chlorphenesin, Tetrasodium
EDTA, Citric Acid (Naturally Derived)

Accelerator

Ingredients: Mesenchymal Stem Cell Cytokines, Water (Aqua), Glycerin
(Plant Derived), C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, PPG-3 Benzyl Myristate, Carthamus
Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil, Alcohol, Cetearyl Alcohol (Plant Derived), Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E Acetate), Polysorbate-20 (Plant Derived), Cetearyl Glucoside,
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (Vitamin C Ester), Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba)
Seed Oil, Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil, Essential Oils, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Butylene Glycol, Polysorbate-60 (Plant Derived), Glyceryl Stearate (Plant Derived),
Lecithin, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyl Dimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Soybean
Glycerides, Arachidyl Alcohol, Soy Isoflavones, Phenoxyethanol (Preservative), Helianthus Annuus (Hybrid Sunflower) Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Fruit, Bisabolol,
Arbutin, Caprylyl Glycol (Naturally Derived Preservative), Behenyl Alcohol,
Lonicera Japonica (Honeysuckle) Extract (Natural Preservative), Foeniculum Vulgare (Fennel) Fruit Extract, Camellia Oleifera (ORGANIC) Black Tea, Algae (Seaweed) Extract,
Xanthan Gum (Natural Thickener), Saccharum Officinarum (Sugar Cane),
Chlorphenesin, Squalane (Plant Derived), Retinol (Vitamin A), Ubiquinone (Coenzyme Q10), Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5), Allantoin (Comfrey Root Derived), Citrus Medica
Limonum (Lemon) Fruit Extract, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Sweet Neroli
Orange) Fruit, Tetrasodium EDTA, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Juice, Sodium Hyaluronate, Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Leaf Extract, Arachidyl Glucoside, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed
Extract, Salix Alba (Willow) Bark Extract, Vaccinium Myrtillus (Bilberry) Extract, Phyllanthus Emblica (Amla) Extract, Thioctic Acid (a-Lipoic Acid), Sodium Hydroxide (pH Modifier)

Required disclosure:  I was mailed a sample of this product by Cellese for potential review.  According to the Policies, a sample does not guarantee a review, positive or otherwise.

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Do Mary Kay's Best-Selling Products Work?

About the authors:  Jessica Fitzgerald is the newest FutureDerm.com Contributing Writer.  She is a Sales Director for Mary Kay.  For more, please visit her sales page, Jess Fitz for Mary Kay.  Nicki Zevola is Editor-in-Chief of FutureDerm.com and contributed to the “What Nicki Says” portions of this article.

It seems the older we get, the more we are invited to “beauty parties” sponsored by our friends and relatives.  But when you’re well-versed in the world of skin care and cosmetics and quite happy with your current regime, what are you to buy at these events?  FutureDerm.com has teamed up with Mary Kay Sales Director Jessica Fitzgerald to find out what sells the best, and then our editor-in-chief Nicki Zevola analyzes the products from a scientific perspective:

Mary Kay Timewise Cleanser

#1 Best-seller: Mary Kay Timewise Cleanser


1.)  TimeWise® 3-In-1 Cleanser

This multitasking cleansing product combines anti-aging with three essential functions in one product to cleanse, exfoliate and freshen to reveal younger-looking skin. (Efficient beauty!!!)

What Nicki Says:  This product is rich in the occlusive agents mineral oil and petrolatum.  Despite popular internet rumors, cosmetic-grade mineral oil and petrolatum are safe for the skin.  In fact, many dermatologists recommend them.  This is because mineral oil and petrolatum coat the skin and prevent trans-epidermal water loss. Examples of other occlusive agents that hydrate in this manner include triglycerides, sunflower oil, soybean oil, jojoba oil, evening primrose oil and olive oil.  The bad thing about them is that they can be messy and not very cosmetically appealing, but when used in a cleanser such as this one, they leave skin feeling soft and hydrated.  If you can afford it, this also makes a lovely body wash!

Water , Mineral Oil , Glycerin , Petrolatum , Bentonite , Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone , Ethylhexyl Pelargonate , Neopentyl Glycol Diethylhexanoate , C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate , Myristyl Myristate , PPG-26-Buteth-26 , Sorbitol , Sucrose Distearate , PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil , Oleyl Oleate , Camellia Sinensis Extract , Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract , Cucumber Extract , Camellia Oleifera Extract , Hibiscus Rosa-Sinensis Extract , Malva Sylvestris (Mallow) Extract , Echinacea Purpurea Extract , Solanum Lycopersicum (Tomato) Extract , Triethanolamine , Sucrose Stearate , Propylene Glycol , Butylene Glycol , Carbomer , Disodium EDTA , Magnesium Aluminum Silicate , Diazolidinyl Urea , Tocopherol , Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba) Wax , Mannitol , Myristyl Laurate , Methylparaben , Cellulose , Propylparaben , C9-15 Alkyl Phosphate , Lauramine Oxide , Phenoxyethanol , Thermus Thermophillus Ferment , Ethyl Linoleate , Ethyl Linolenate , Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose , Talc , Red 7 , Red 4 , Titanium Dioxide , Red 30 , Ultramarines , Red 33

Timewise moisturizer Mary Kay2.)  TimeWise® Age-Fighting Moisturizer

This emollient-rich lotion combines the action of hydration and a patented complex to accelerate the skin’s natural renewal process, revealing firmer, smoother skin with fewer lines and wrinkles. A humectant blend keeps skin moist.

What Nicki Says:  This is a solid lightweight moisturizer for use under make-up.  It does not contain sunscreen, however, so it must be layered under a broad-spectrum UVA/UVB sunscreen for daytime use.  Despite this, the ingredients are pretty solid, particularly for those with oily or normal/oily skin types.

Humectants are moisturizers that absorb water from the atmosphere and also from the lower layers of the skin, leaving the upper skin more moisturized. Examples include glycerin, glycerol, sorbitol, urea, and lactic acid. The bad thing about them is that sometimes they can actually be drying rather than moisturizing, plus in higher concentrations they tend to be irritating to the skin for those with dry or normal/dry skin types (Skin Therapy Letter, 2001).   However, humectants are light and cosmetically appealing, so this moisturizer is a good choice for the summer months, or those with normal/oily skin.

Ingredients:  Water , TEA-Lauryl Sulfate , Hexylene Glycol , Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate , Triethanolamine , Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer , Arcticum Lappa Root Extract , Citrus Grandis (Grapefruit) Fruit Extract , Humulus Lupulus (Hops) Extract , Equisetum Hiemale Leaf/Stem Extract , Salvia Officinalis (Sage) Leaf Extract , Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Bark/Leaf/Twig Extract , Aesculus Hippocastanum (Horse Chestnut) Seed Extract , Propylene Glycol , Disodium EDTA , Diazolidinyl Urea , Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba) Wax , Mannitol , Methylparaben , Cellulose , Butylene Glycol , Propylparaben , C9-15 Alkyl Phosphate , Lauramine Oxide , Glycerin , Thermus Thermophillus Ferment , Ethyl Linoleate , Ethyl Linolenate , Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose , Phenoxyethanol , Talc , Ultramarines , Red 30

3.)  TimeWise® Firming Eye Cream

Timewise Eye CreamFirms, brightens, moisturizes, Oh MY! We show the signs of aging first around the delicate eye area, so keep that area moisturized to keep those age telling wrinkles away. (I’m 102…you’d never guess) ;-)

What Nicki Says:  As far as eye creams go, there are two major types:  treatment and cosmetic.  Treatment eye creams contain ingredients like collagen stimulators and skin brighteners that work gradually over time to improve the undereye area.  On the other hand, cosmetic treatments work immediately, typically firming, depuffing, or hydrating the skin under the eyes.  Unfortunately the effects are more temporary.

Mary Kay Timewise Firming Eye Cream is more of a cosmetic eye cream.  The first five ingredients are all hydrating agents.  (Yes, cetearyl and isostearyl alcohols are hydrators, despite the name “alcohol.”)  The treatment is a probiotic, but it is contained in rather low concentration.  As a result, this eye cream can be used to hydrate the skin under the eyes before going out and/or with a treatment eye cream.

Ingredients:   Water , Glycerin , C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate , Cetearyl Alcohol , Isostearyl Alcohol , Triethanolamine , Hydrogenated Lecithin , Behenyl Alcohol , Propylene Glycol , Dimethicone , Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 , Ceteareth-20 , Linoleamidopropyl PG-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate , Silica , Carbomer , Diazolidinyl Urea , Lauramine Oxide , Disodium EDTA , Betaine , Glyceryl Polyacrylate , Methylparaben , Sodium PCA , C9-15 Alkyl Phosphate , Tocopheryl Acetate , Sorbitol , Propylparaben , Serine , Threonine , Proline , Arginine , Glycine , Alanine , Lysine , Glutamic Acid , Thermus Thermophillus Ferment

4.)  TimeWise® Replenishing Serum+C

Mary Kay Timewise + C SerumGive collagen a boost, based on Mary Kay-based in vitro testing.

Skin elasticity is enhanced and skin looks lifted as the serum hydrates. Wrinkles appear diminished. TimeWise Replenishing Serum+C™ is the catalyst that can visibly brighten, transform and revive the appearance of the skin. Formulated with a patent-pending complex of botanical extracts, this serum contains ingredients that have been shown to help protect against the breakdown of collagen.* The innovative packaging keeps the formula preserved in an airless environment to maintain the product’s effectiveness first drop to last.

What Nicki Says:  There are four ingredients in this serum I like a lot:  magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, argan oil, palmitoyl pentapeptide-7, and palmitoyl oligopeptide.  Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate is a more stable form of vitamin C than L-ascorbic acid in the presence of light and air.  What’s more, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate has been shown in Photochemistry and Photobiology to have the same skin-brightening, skin-firming effects of L-ascorbic acid over time.  That’s the good news.  The bad news is, you can control the amount of L-ascorbic acid you buy – 10%, 15%, and 20% are all common.  But no manufacturers to date have published the concentration of magnesium ascorbyl phosphate in their products.  Nor has any study shown that 1% magnesium ascorbyl phosphate = 10% L-ascorbic acid, or something like that.  So, for me at least, I only buy products with magnesium ascorbyl phosphate if the rest of the ingredients in the formulation are alluring.

In this case, the rest of this formulation holds its ground.  I love argan oil, found to have three times the amount of antioxidant vitamin E found in olive oil.  Argan oil is also a natural source of linoleic and oleic fatty acids, found in the scientific literature to help protect and maintain skin elasticity, smoothness, and radiance.

Lastly, this serum contains palmitoyl pentapeptide-7 and palmitoyl oligopeptide.  Unfortunately, due to their low placement on the ingredients list, we know they are each <1% of the formulation.  Still, their effects are not to be ignored.  Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 reduces inflammatory cell-signaling proteins known as interleukins when applied to the skin (Clinics in Dermatology, 1999).  By reducing inflammation, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 may potentially reduce the cumulative amount of damage that occurs following exposure to UV light, pollution, internal stress, and other pro-inflammatory factors.

On the other hand, palmitoyl oligopeptide significantly stimulates collagen production in human fibroblasts, as shown in a 2007 study in Dermatologic Therapy.  When used twice daily for a significant period of time – about six months – this means firmer skin, provided that other factors remain the same (i.e., weight, sun exposure, etc.).  So if you’re going to a Mary Kay party, this is a solid buy, particularly if you have dry or normal/dry skin.

Ingredients:   Water , Glycerin , Dimethicone , Hydrogenated Polydecene , Butylene Glycol , Propylene Glycol , Betaine , Alcohol , PEG-32 , Maltodextrin , Polyacrylamide , Triethanolamine , Diazolidinyl Urea , Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer , Alcohol Denat. , Disodium EDTA , Malpighia Punicifolia (Acerola) Fruit Extract , Argania Spinosa Kernel Extract , C13-14 Isoparaffin , Urea , Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract , Glucosamine HCL , Methylparaben , Algae Extract , Saccharomyces Cerevisiae Extract , Phenoxyethanol , Lecithin , Silanetriol Trehalose Ether , Myrciaria Dubia Fruit Extract , Secale Cereale (Rye) Seed Extract , Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate , Laureth-7 , Xanthan Gum , Punica Granatum Extract , Propylparaben , Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride , Carbomer , Linum Usitatissimum (Linseed) Seed Extract , Pinus Sylvestris Bark Extract , Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose , Ribes Nigrum (Black Currant) Leaf Extract , Rutin , Benzophenone-4 , Chlorphenesin , Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate , Sodium Methylparaben , Ethylparaben , Pentylene Glycol , Potassium Benzoate , Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 , Palmitoyl Oligopeptide , Titanium Dioxide

5.)  TimeWise® Microdermabrasion Set

Mary Kay MicrodermabrasionA super exfoliate that fights fine lines, refines pores and achieves beautifully smooth skin. Gets rid of dry, flaky skin and is an instant skin brightener.

(Bye, Bye Apricot scrub torture!)

What Nicki Says:  As far as at-home treatments go, this one is pretty solid. Dermatologists use alumina crystals in their offices for microdermabrasion treatments, which is also the main ingredient in this kit. As is advised to patients, then, consumers of this microdermabrasion kit should know that it will not treat acne scarring.  It will, however, improve photoaged skin, comedonal acne, lengitines, striae (stretch marks), scars, palmoplantar keratoderma, Darier’s disease, and actinic keratoses (Photoaging).

In a study from Dermatological Surgery, fourteen patients aged 40-75 underwent microdermabrasion once every 2 weeks over the course of 12 weeks at a dermatologist’s office. By patient assessment, there was a statistically significant improvement in skin’s roughness, mottled appearance, and overall appearance. There was also some improvement in age spots. However, acne scars were not improved with the treatment, and required deeper resurfacing. A second study in Dermatological Study also found improvements in oiliness, thickness, and dilated pores.

Ingredients in Step 1:   Water , Alumina , Butylene Glycol , Cyclopentasiloxane , Hydrogenated Polyisobutene , Glycerin , Myristyl Myristate , Glyceryl Stearate , Cyclohexasiloxane , PEG-100 Stearate , Dimethicone , Cetearyl Alcohol , Cetyl Alcohol , Propylene Glycol , Caffeine , Benzyl Alcohol , Steareth-20 , Sodium Stearate , Potassium Stearate , Triethanolamine , Myristyl Laurate , Diazolidinyl Urea , Disodium EDTA , Polysorbate 60 , Carbomer , Titanium Dioxide , Methylparaben , Propylparaben

Ingredients in Step 2:  Water , Glycereth-26 , Isododecane , Dimethicone , Propylene Glycol , Glycerin , Polyacrylamide , Boron Nitride , C13-14 Isoparaffin , Triethanolamine , Panthenol , DMDM Hydantoin , Disodium EDTA , PEG-4 Laurate , Allantoin , Carbomer , Laureth-7 , Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract , Glyceryl Polyacrylate , Phenoxyethanol , Tocopheryl Acetate , Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate , Methylparaben , Cyclopentasiloxane , Ascorbic Acid , Cyclohexasiloxane , PEG-75 , PEG-150 , PEG-8 Cetyl Dimethicone , Mica , Titanium Dioxide , Red 33 , Ext. Violet 2

Bottom Line

Overall, Mary Kay has some effective products.  Nicki’s recommendations are the TimeWise Cleanser (for normal/dry or dry skin), the Timewise Replenishing Serum + C (for normal/oily or oily skin), and the Microdermabrasion Kit.  For more buying information or to find out how to become a Mary Kay consultant, please visit Jessica Fitzgerald’s page at www.marykay.com/jessfitz.

Please note:  No one was compensated for this post.

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