Call me jaded, but after nearly five years of beauty blogging, new products rarely impress me anymore. From claims of “youth gene repair” to “nanoparticle” delivery systems to the latest in luxurious packaging, I’ve seen it all. Nowadays I typically pick up a product and immediately search for the ingredients label, which usually elicits a response somewhere between a “ew” or an “ah.”
Very rarely does something elicit a “Wow” response from me.
Cellese AnteAGE Serum and Accelerator ($280.00, Cellese.com) actually did. Four of five of the top ingredients in the Cellese AnteAGE Serum are scientifically-proven anti-aging powerhouses, with the fifth being water! What’s more, the Cellese AnteAGE Accelerator is a source of vitamins C and E, which have been shown to increase sun protection when worn under sunscreen. Here, I’ll talk about some of the major ingredients, as well as my personal experience using the cream:
Mesenchymal Stem Cell Cytokines
It sounds a little like something out of a science fiction novel, having cytokines from stem cells in a cream, but it’s true. Cellese harvests mesenchymal stem cells from adults and grows them in their laboratory facilities. The stem cell cytokines are then placed in the skin creams.
For those of you who are not science buffs, “mesenchymal” is a type of stem cell that is capable of growing, or differentiating, into a number of different cell types. These cell types include bone cells (osteoblasts), cartilage (chondrocytes), and fat cells (adipocytes). Within the body, mesenchymal stem cells deplete as you get older. In fact, at age 15, one out of every 10,000 of the cells in your bone marrow are mesenchymal skin cells. At age 50, only 2.5% of these cells remain.
“Cytokines” are cell-signaling molecules used in cell-to-cell communication. The thought is, by using the cytokines produced by mesenchymal stem cells, skin cells will essentially be “told” to grow and divide faster, leaving you with younger-looking, more replenished skin.
The dermatological community has not conducted many studies on the effects of topically applying mesenchymal stem cells to the skin – yet. However, there is promise in this arena. Several studies, including one from the journal Tissue Engineering, suggest topical application of mesenchymal stem cells accelerates wound healing by increasing the skin’s production of fibrin, a protein associated with blood clotting. A 2004 review from Stem Cells and Development further demonstrates the ability of mesenchymal stem cells to grow where they are planted, so to speak, as injection of the cells into the knee has been shown to “improve joint functionality and versatility.”
As far as in-house studies at Cellese go, these are in abundance. One Cellese clinical trial revealed AnteAGE was effective in improving twelve parameters of skin health and appearance in 45 women and 4 men aged 30 to 75. These twelve parameters were:
Readers are often asking me for the most potent peptide cream. Of those I have examined, the Cellese AnteAGE Serum has one of the highest concentrations of palmitoyl oligopeptide. Palmitoyl oligopeptide has been shown to significantly increase collagen production in human fibroblasts in a 2007 study in Dermatologic Therapy. When used twice daily for a significant period of time – about six months – this means firmer skin, provided that other factors remain the same (i.e., weight, sun exposure, etc.).
Niacinamide, also known as nicotinamide or vitamin B3, is a popular anti-aging ingredient in today’s skin care market. If it sounds familiar to you, it is probably because about 2-4% niacinamide is one of the secrets to all Olay moisturizers. So any time you hear one of the Olay commercials touting that their creams are as good – or better – than a $500 cream, niacinamide is likely the reason.
The dermatological community has many studies to back up niacinamide use. According to a review from Bissett et. al., niacinamide reduces fine lines and wrinkles, hyperpigmented spots, red blotchiness, and skin sallowness. The same review also found niacinamide use increases skin elasticity over time.
Niacinamide may also be helpful to those with rosacea or acne. According to a 2005 study, niacinamide may help alleviate some of the symptoms of rosacea by increasing hydration and barrier function of the stratum corneum (the uppermost layer of the skin). Another study also reported that a 4% topical niacinamide treatment applied twice daily may help to treat acne by reducing inflammation with similar efficacy to 1% clindamycin gel. Amazing. I estimate the Cellese AnteAGE line has about 4% niacinamide, amongst the highest on the market today.
For years, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 was known as palmitoyl tetrapeptide-3. (You say poe-tay-toe-7, I say pah-tah-toe-3, I suppose).
The best part of palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 is that it reduces inflammation within the skin. In independent dermatological studies, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 has been found to reduce inflammatory cell-signaling proteins known as interleukins (Clinics in Dermatology, 1999). By reducing inflammation, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 may potentially reduce the cumulative amount of damage that occurs following exposure to UV light, pollution, internal stress, and other pro-inflammatory stress factors.
Personal Use and Opinions
The serum is light but somewhat creamy – not a thin liquid like many alcohol-based serums. As a result, it leaves skin feeling hydrated. On the other hand, the accelerator is a lightweight lotion. The ingredients left my skin feeling soothed and less reddened, which was a welcome change.
My only caveat? As with any product with retinol, some individuals are more sensitive and may require a period of adjustment. I’ve been using retinoids for years, so I was fine.
The packaging is an airtight pump, which is much appreciated, given the fact that the cream contains a lot of antioxidants, including vitamin C as tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate. While tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is more stable than L-ascorbic acid (the most commonly-occurring form of vitamin C in skin care) in the presence of light and air, it is still better to have it packaged in an airtight pump.
I don’t usually do this, but I’ll go ahead and give the Cellese AnteAGE Serum and Accelerator my highest endorsement. The set doesn’t even contain sunscreen, but the combination of high concentrations of niacinamide, peptides, vitamin C, vitamin E, and even the new technology of mesenchymal stem cell cytokines is a huge “wow” to me.
So much of a “wow,” in fact, that I’ve invited Dr. John Sanderson, M.D., one of the inventors of the Cellese AnteAGE line, to sign on to have our top banner in June, and to be a weekly writer for FutureDerm.com. Judging from this product line, he clearly knows his skin science, and I thought FutureDerm readers would enjoy learning from his expertise. (And don’t worry, he won’t be writing just about his own products every week!)
So what do you think about the new Cellese AnteAGE line? Comments or questions?
Ingredients: Mesenchymal Stem Cell Cytokines, Water (Aqua), Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Niacinamide (Vitamin B3), Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, PPG-3 Benzyl Myristate, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Carnosine, Hydrolyzed Myrtus Communis (True Myrtle) Leaf Extract, Polyacrylate-13, Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Leaf Extract, Maltodextrin, Ilex Paraguariensis (Paraguay) Leaf (Yerba Mate) Extract, Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate, Polyisobutene, Phenoxyethanol (Preservative), Caprylyl Glycol (Naturally
Derived Preservative), Polysorbate-20 (Plant Derived), Chlorphenesin, Tetrasodium
EDTA, Citric Acid (Naturally Derived)
Ingredients: Mesenchymal Stem Cell Cytokines, Water (Aqua), Glycerin
(Plant Derived), C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, PPG-3 Benzyl Myristate, Carthamus
Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil, Alcohol, Cetearyl Alcohol (Plant Derived), Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E Acetate), Polysorbate-20 (Plant Derived), Cetearyl Glucoside,
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (Vitamin C Ester), Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba)
Seed Oil, Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil, Essential Oils, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Butylene Glycol, Polysorbate-60 (Plant Derived), Glyceryl Stearate (Plant Derived),
Lecithin, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyl Dimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Soybean
Glycerides, Arachidyl Alcohol, Soy Isoflavones, Phenoxyethanol (Preservative), Helianthus Annuus (Hybrid Sunflower) Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Fruit, Bisabolol,
Arbutin, Caprylyl Glycol (Naturally Derived Preservative), Behenyl Alcohol,
Lonicera Japonica (Honeysuckle) Extract (Natural Preservative), Foeniculum Vulgare (Fennel) Fruit Extract, Camellia Oleifera (ORGANIC) Black Tea, Algae (Seaweed) Extract,
Xanthan Gum (Natural Thickener), Saccharum Officinarum (Sugar Cane),
Chlorphenesin, Squalane (Plant Derived), Retinol (Vitamin A), Ubiquinone (Coenzyme Q10), Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5), Allantoin (Comfrey Root Derived), Citrus Medica
Limonum (Lemon) Fruit Extract, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Sweet Neroli
Orange) Fruit, Tetrasodium EDTA, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Juice, Sodium Hyaluronate, Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Leaf Extract, Arachidyl Glucoside, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed
Extract, Salix Alba (Willow) Bark Extract, Vaccinium Myrtillus (Bilberry) Extract, Phyllanthus Emblica (Amla) Extract, Thioctic Acid (a-Lipoic Acid), Sodium Hydroxide (pH Modifier)
Required disclosure: I was mailed a sample of this product by Cellese for potential review. According to the Policies, a sample does not guarantee a review, positive or otherwise.