Can You Permanently Damage Your Skin with Argireline?

By Nicki Zevola — July 27, 2012

iQ Natural Argireline contains 5% argireline, the lowest concentration to have exhibited effects when applied topically in studies.

Dear Nicki,

Can you permanently damage your skin with argireline?

-Maria

Dear Maria,

Argireline is a peptide complex.  It works in two ways, according to the Textbook of Aging Skin:

  • Stops formation of a complex necessary for neurotransmitter release, called the SNARE complex.
  • Inhibits the release of neurotransmitters, including catecholamines, noradrenaline, and adrenaline.
Argireline needs to be applied to the skin in concentrations of 5% or greater to be effective.  At 5% concentration, Argireline has been shown to decrease wrinkles up to 30% when applied once daily for 28 days (International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2002). Argireline at 10% has also been shown to have better wrinkle-fighting effects than another peptide, Leuphasyl, at 10% (International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2009). 

So is Argireline Damaging?

Synapse illustration without labels, intended ...

Argireline inhibits the release of neurotransmitters at synapses, like the one shown here.

On the one hand, it won’t be for most people.  Argireline needs to diffuse through the top layers of skin to reach the crucial muscle-nerve connections like injectable BotoxTM.  Some prominent dermatologists, like Dr. Leslie Baumann, M.D., are skeptical that peptides even work at all, stating, “Peptides do not penetrate and they are unstable in the formulations.”  I had my mother once try an argireline cream, and it did absolutely nothing for her.

On the other hand, there is limited data showing results.  Some people are getting significant results from argireline – and for them, the concern is that argireline is applied all over the face, whereas BotoxTM is injected into specific areas.  As any skilled BotoxTM practitioner can tell you, where and how you inject BotoxTM makes a huge difference in not only the expression lines, but also, to some extent, the contours of a face.  Granted, the effect of topically-applied argireline will be far less than injected BotoxTM , but you get the idea.

So if I were to use argireline, I would recommend using itonly on wrinkled areas – not all over the face.

Is Facial Sagging From Argireline Permanent?

face of power

Relax – the effects of Botox reverse completely in 4-6 months, and so should the effects of argireline (Photo credit: jacob earl)

No, it definitely shouldn’t be.  As any BotoxTM user can tell you, after a few months, the facial freezing effect completely wears off.  The neurotransmitter complex is no longer inhibited, and neurotransmitters resume prior activity.  Histological analysis shows absolutely no difference in tissues before and after long-term BotoxTM treatment (European Journal of Neurology, 2006).

Since argireline works on the same pathways as BotoxTM, and to a much lesser extent (topically applied rather than injected), it should not exhibit permanent sagging effects, even if it is applied all over the face.  It may take a few months to wear off – considering that injected BotoxTM on one area of the face takes six months, topically-applied argireline should take one to three months, from my best estimate.

Hope this helps,
Nicki

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About Author

Founder and CEO Nicki Zevola started FutureDerm as a medical (M.D.) student studying to be a dermatologist. She is an award-winning scientific researcher and writer. She currently is concentrating on FutureDerm and developing FutureDerm's one-of-a-kind products. She can be found on and Twitter.

View all Nicki Zevola posts.

(1) Reader Comment

  1. Maria
    July 28, 2012 at 8:24 pm

    Thank you very much Nicki. I’ve always had thin , transparent skin so I can see how Argireline would affect me. Dr Baumann may be surprised by the obvious effect on my skin — at first I liked it but then I started noticing these really heavy eyelids and droopy cheeks. Sure I had some of that starting but nothing like with this product . By the 3rd day of stopping my skin firmed up again and I wasn’t trying to hold up my eyelids! The one positive maybe is that if this peptide “works” on my skin then maybe the really good ones would work too! I’ll have to check out your posts on the best peptide for firming — and thanks again Nicki – I appreciate your blog !!

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Please note: This site is only for informative purposes. It is not intended to be a substitute for professional medical advice. Please consult your doctor for your medical concerns. The author is not liable for any outcome or damage resulting from information obtained from this site.