FY22 Facial Scrub ($17.99, ideazbrands.com) is a pretty basic cleanser that’s pretty mild overall. It’s unscented and good for exfoliation. I was excited to try it and found that it’s a pretty good cleanser. The company recommends it in particular for diabetic skin care, which necessitates more mild products.
Deionized water is, self-explanatorily, water that has had the ions removed. We know that chemically water is H2O, but there’s more than just hydrogen and oxygen in our usual water. There’s also iron, chlorine, sodium, etc. (Magnet Lab). These are removed when water is sent through resin beads where an “ion exchange” takes place and the cations and anions are drawn out, leaving the water ion-free.
This is essentially a very quick way of purifying water, which is pretty necessarily in crafting safe and effective cosmetics.
This is an anionic surfactant. A quick reminder, surfactants are the ingredients in soaps that cause them to foam and help to remove dirt. This particular surfactant comes from sugars derived from corn (glucose) and fatty acids derived form coconuts (decanol) (Making Cosmetics).
While there have been a few cases of allergies when it comes to decyl polyglucose, overall, it’s consider mild for a surfactant (Contact Dematitis). This is why it’s often found in gently formulas.
Jojoba is one of those ingredients that appears frequently in traditional medicine as an agent for softening skin and hair, but that hasn’t been as well studied as one might suspect.
It’s been shown to clean, soften, moisturize, and condition the skin, in part, by forming a lipid layer on the skin. It does this because jojoba’s acts somewhat like the skin’s natural sebum (Gale Encyclopedia of Alternative Medicine). It’s also been shown to prevent water evaporation (Journal of the American Oil Chemists’ Society).
While decyl polyglucose may be mild, this amphoteric surfactant that also comes from coconut is less so. It causes mild skin irritation and can serve as a skin sensitizer. The sensitivities are thought to be induced, in part, by impurities when the ingredient is being mantufactured (Dermatitis).
In applied to skin at 10% concentration, this surfactant is considered to be as irritating as sodium lauryl sulfate when applied at 2% (Contact Dermatitis). It doesn’t seem there is 10% of cocamidopropyl betaine.
[Read More: Spotlight On: Sodium Lauryl Sulfate]
Personal Use and Opinion
FY22 Facial Scrub lathered up quite well — likely thanks in part to combining cocamidopropyl betaine with the main surfactant decyl polyglucose because the latter doesn’t suds well. It has a very mild, almost clinical smell. The beads are small enough that it makes for rather gentle exfoliation. I found that it left my skin feeling a little dry, but did a good job of sloughing and cleansing. Overall, I did not feel this cleanser was as conditioning as it claimed to be.
With one mild surfactant and another surfactant that is more irritating but in a much smaller concentration, FF22 Facial Scrub is gently and works well for cleaning, though it can be a bit drying. It contains jojoba, which can act like the skin’s natural sebum, but which hasn’t been well tested scientifically. And generally speaking, deionized water is water that’s been purified. Overall, it’s a solid cleanser that the company, in particular, recommends to those with diabetes.
Product Rating: 7/9
- High or optimized concentration of key ingredients: 2.5/3
- Unique formulation or new technology: 2/3
- Value: 2.5/3