I recently read a product review of this product on Temptalia that gave me pause.
In the post, Christine (the author) wrote that “For sun protection, the active ingredients are Avobenzone 3.0% (UVA I) Octisalate 5.0% (UVB), and Octocrylene 7.0% (UVB), so the formula does not protect against the UVA II portion of the spectrum… ideally, you’d get full coverage across both UVA and UVB ranges, but many sunscreens miss UVA II part of the UVA range.”
Here’s what’s wrong with her statement:
- Avobenzone protects moderately well against UVA II rays (320-240 nm) AND well against most UVA I rays (340-400 nm).
- Octocrylene protects well against UVB rays (290-320 nm) AND UVA II rays.
- Therefore, the formula DOES protect well against UVA II rays.
- Most inadequate sunscreens actually miss the UVA I part of the UVA range, NOT the UVA II range. This is because there are many more ingredients available on the market that protect against UVA II rays rather both types of UVA rays.
So in reality, the 3% avobenzone, 5% octisalate, and 7% octocrylene together provide very good overall protection. The octocrylene content stabilizes the avobenzone via triplet energy quenching, and compounds the level of UVA II protection of the latter. Similarly, the octisalate content boosts the overall level of UVB protection derived from octocrylene. Thankfully, there’s no octinoxate present.
The presence of alcohol isn’t alarming, since it fluidizes the “would-have-been-rather-greasy” texture due to the high octocrylene content. And while the jar packaging does allow expedient degradation of the surprisingly decent amounts of antioxidants (in respect to Lancôme products as a whole), since I always recommend a separate daytime antioxidant product, its inclusion and utilization are acceptable.
Now, does this sunscreen rank among the best? I don’t think so. But the main purpose of this post was to clarify the statements made by Christine and to endorse more accurate information in the hope that some of the readers will benefit from this correction.
Speaking of Lancôme, be sure to enter my Lancôme- and Shu Uemura-based giveaway. Has anyone tried this product before? What were your experiences? If you read this review on Temptalia, what were your initial reactions?
Active: Avobenzone (3%), Octisalate (5%), Octocrylene (7%),
Other: Water, Dimethicone, Glycerin, Alcohol Denat., VP/Eicosene Copolymer, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Sucrose Stearate, Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate, Silica, Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate, Black Currant Seed Oil, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Sodium Polyacrylate, Sodium Hydroxide, Hydroxyisohexyl 3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde, Hydroxycitronellal, Phenoxyethanol, Stearic Acid, Thermus Thermophillus Ferment, Eugenol, Triethanolamine, Sunflower Seed Oil, Polycaprolactone, Dimethiconol, Panthenol, Xanthan Gum, Benzyl Salicylate, Linalool, Benzyl Alcohol, Oxothiazolidinecarboxylic Acid, Caprylyl Glycol, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Geraniol, Moringa Pterygosperma Seed Extract, Disodium EDTA, Castanea Sativa (Chestnut) Extract, Rosa Canina Fruit Oil, Methylparaben, Butylparaben, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Citronellol, Hexyldecanol, Hexyldecyl Laurate, Hexyl Cinnamal, Fragrance