Dermatude Active Hydra Booster Facial Cream is most definitely moisturizing. The cream contains a plethora of ingredients known for boosting skin’s hydration content. The company recommends it for day and night use, but it’s probably best to stick to night unless you have very dry skin and can layer a sunscreen overtop without getting oily.
Hyaluronic Acid: Moisture, Moisture, Moisture
Hyaluronic acid is the most touted ingredient on the Dermatude label, and with good reason. As far as “hydra boosting” goes, hyaluronic acid is pretty exciting. This natural moisturizing factor (NMF) is a humctant moisturizer (meaning it pulls moisture from the atmosphere) can bond with many times its weight in water (10 Minutes, 10 Years, Baumann). One of the reasons that natural moisturizing factors are important is that they allow the skin to operate at an optimal level, meaning that it can provide the best protection against environmental assaults (Murad). And one of the things that makes it great is that hyaluronic acid does this well in both high and low humidity environments (In Cosmetics).
While humectant moisturizers can sometimes pull from deeper levels of skin as well as the environment, having them paired with an occlusive moisturizer prevents this. In this case, glycerin and paraffin work as occlusive moisturizers, meaning that the hyaluronic acid in this cream is pulling from the environment, not your skin.
Hyaluronic acid has also been shown to help speed up wound healing from oxygen free-radical damage in mouse skin (International Journal of Tissue Reactions). Researchers were not, however, certain if hyaluronic worked as a free-radical scavenger.
Glycerin: A Much-Loved Moisturizer Ingredient
Glycerin is an oldie, but a goodie. This classic ingredient is an occlusive and humectant agent as well as an emollient. That’s why you find it in many, many skin care products. In a study that compared it to oil-in-water dimethicone and petrolatum-based products, the glycerin was the best at hydrating skin (Ostomy Wound Management). Another study found that participants who used a 20% glycerin-containing lotion over a 10-day period saw a significant increase in skin moisture (International Journal of Cosmetic Science).
In a five-year study looking at moisturizer use amongst 394 patients with extremely dry skin that compared two glycerin-containing products with 16 other popular products, researchers found that glycerin was better at restore skin moisture to normal levels (Dry Skin and Moisturizers). One of the reasons that glycerin might work so well is that it might allow skin cells to mature, which is why it works well on extremely dry skin (Science Daily).
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil (Sunflower Seed Oil): Better than Olive Oil?
Sunflowers are known for being cheery and bright and this is one ingredient that actually might impart those properties onto your skin. That’s because sunflowers get their vibrant color from beta-carotene, a carotenoid that gives vegetables (and when you eat it, you) a their bright colors (University of Maryland Medical Center).
Fun fact about beta-carotene? While beta-carotene is converted into vitamin A or reintol in the body, whether that happened on the skin was less certain. Studies on human epithelial cells and mouse skin show that the skin may convert beta-carotene into vitamin A or retinyl esters in the skin (Experimental Dermatology). And while beta carotene can increase matrix metalloproteinases (which degrade collagen) when exposed to sunlight, vitamin E (which sunflower seed oil contains!) prevents this from happening (Free Radical Biology and Medicine, Journal of the American Oil Chemists’ Society).
And that’s not all that sunflower seed oil is good for. It’s an emollient and occlusive agent that has about 60% linoleic acid, which hydrates skin by being incorporated into skin lipids and protecting hair from transepidermical water loss (TEWL) (British Journal of Dermatology). In fact, it might even be better than olive oil. A study on adult volunteers found that rubbing olive oil on their skin damaged the skin barrier and caused mild erythema in both patients who did and did not have a history of contact dermatitis. Meanwhile, sunflower seed oil preserved the skin barrier, didn’t cause erythema, and improved hydration (Pediatric Dermatology).
Personal Use and Opinion
Dermatude Active Hydra Booster Facial Cream is a thick and soothing cream. It has a pleasant, almost floral scent. It takes a while to absorb into skin, but not too long. While the company recommends using this day and night, given the thickness and feeling on skin, I’d say this might be better as a regular night cream or a day and night cream for someone who suffers from very dry skin. Since it doesn’t have sunscreen you’d have to layer another product overtop and those with normal to oily skin may find that it leaves them a bit oily in the daytime.
Dermatude Active Hydra Booster Facial Cream is a great moisturizing night cream or a day and night cream for those with very dry skin. With plenty of moisturizers including those not mentioned about like Shea butter, this promises to restores your skin’s hydration. It was very thick and definitely moisturizing and if you’re looking for something to keep skin soft, this should do the trick.
- 40sunflower, a photo by mertcem on Flickr. Asked via the FutureDerm.com Facebook page: Is sunflower oil good for the skin? -Ann Dear Ann, With the whole natural/organic skin care movement still ongoing in the U.S., sunflower seed oil (Helianthus annum) is one of those ingredients we are sure to keep on seeing. Sunflower seed oil…
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