Does Dr. Lewinn Instant Perfecting BB Cream Match Its Claims?

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For those of us with busy lifestyles, it’s easy to skip out on important steps in our skincare routines — applying serum, moisturizer, primer, AND sun block. This is where the BB cream comes in; by combining these into one functioning product, no longer must we spend endless amounts of time applying product after product.

One of the newer, less costly versions is the Instant Perfecting B.B. Cream by Dr. Lewinn by Kinerase. Promising to even skin tone and reduce the appearance of aging, the product also functions as a tinted moisturizer and sun block. Listing kinetin, passionflower seed oil, diacetyl boldine, and Hordeum vulgare (barley) seed extract as its main ingredients, it’s easy to be impressed by its skincare resume.

Kinetin

Kinetin might have anti-aging effects, but we need more studies to show it.

Kinetin might have anti-aging effects, but we need more studies to show it.

Kinetin (N6-furfuryladenine) is a plant growth hormone with a variety of biological uses, from delaying ripening of fruit to regulating cell differentiation. Studies have shown its anti-aging effects in cultured skin fibroblasts, fruit flies, and plants, and one clinical trial shows both an objective and statistically significant improvement in skin when applied topically; yet another study shows its anti-aging effects to be most remarkable when paired with niacinamide.

However, much of the research backing kinetin leaves one wanting more; while kinetin is used to reduce hyperpigmentation, improve the skin barrier function, and smooth skin, there isn’t overwhelming scientific research that proves its efficacy, and scientists have yet to discover its mechanisms of action. While there is modest scientific support for its inclusion in beauty products, there isn’t enough strong evidence to promote it as a skincare powerhouse just yet (The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology).

Passiflora edulis Seed Oil

Passionflower seed extract might make UVA damage worse — not great in a sun block.

Passionflower seed extract might make UVA damage worse — not great in a sun block.

Also known as Maracujá oil, this is derived from a species of passion fruit native to Brazil, Ecuador, Peru, and Paraguay. Containing essential fatty acids, beta-carotene, flavonoids, calcium, and vitamins C, B6, A, and E, the oil is typically used a moisturizer for dry skin (Prescription for Dietary Wellness, 2003).

Maracujá oil also contains lycopene (Journal of Medicinal Food), which has been shown to enhance UVA-induced damage to skin cells. Studies reporting this, however, are not only limited, but also tested in vitro, so it’s not certain if it has the same effect in vivo (European Journal of Nutrition). Because of this, it seems counterintuitive to market this in a product that also functions as a sun block.

Diacetyl Boldine

According to the website, diacetyl boldine, patented as Lumisphere, “regulates the process of melanin formation early on, inhibiting the activation of the enzyme tyrosinase.” In theory, this should help reduce the appearance of dark spots and even out skin tones. One study conducted by Louis Rinaldi, Manager of Cosmetics Development at Bremann Research Labs, found that diacetyl boldine lightened skin pigmentation by 25% when applied daily for two months (Truth in Aging).  Clinical studies, however, are limited; more research needs to be conducted in order to determine its effectiveness.

Personal Use 

Great as a tinted moisturizer, not so great as a BB cream.

Great as a tinted moisturizer, not so great as a BB cream.

I’ve been using Dr. Lewinn’s Instant Perfecting BB Cream for four days now, and, I’ve got to be honest, I’m not very impressed. The joke around the office was that, after application, I’d look like a fresh-faced 12-year-old; sadly, my skin does not look brighter or more vibrant. While it did keep my face moisturized and provided sheer coverage, this didn’t actually provide me with the multiple uses it had promised.

Bottom Line 

Dr. Lewinn’s Instant Perfecting BB Cream is good if you’re looking for a tinted moisturizer with sheer coverage; however, its active ingredients leave much to be desired in terms of clinical trials. More research needs to be conducted in order to determine their effectiveness in the skincare world. Until that happens, I’d look elsewhere for a multi-purpose BB cream.

Ingredients

Active: 3.0% Zinc Oxide, 6.0% Octinoxate

Water, Titanium Dioxide, Glycerin, Isohexadecane, Cetyl Hydroxyethyl- cellulose, Polymethyl Methacrylate, Trilaurin, Diacetyl Boldine, Polysorbate 20, Cyclopentasiloxane, Stearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Caprylate, Sorbitol, Lecithin, Xanthan Gum, Oleic Acid, Caprylyl Glycol, Polysorbate 80, Sodium Acrylate/Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Behenyl Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Propanediol, Steareth- 21, Gossypium Herbaceum (Cotton) Seed Oil, peg/ppg-20/20 Dimethicone, Steareth-2, Hordeum Vulgare Seed Extract, Laureth-7, Panthenol, Chlorphenesin, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Oleth-3 Phosphate, Kinetin, Butylene Glycol, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Passiflora Edulis Seed Oil, Benzyl Alcohol, Fragrance, Disodium edta, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Triethoxycaprylysilane, Iron Oxides.

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