After hearing that its customers were using its eye creams to improve signs of aging on their lips, YBF responded (appropriately, I think) with Your Best Face Define Lip Cream ($70, amazon.com), a product created to create fuller, brighter lips. YBF sent a sample to test out, and I decided to put it to the test. Your Best Face Define Lip Cream utilizes a unique combination of ingredients meant to smooth and brighten tired, aged lips to create a minty lip cream, but the question, as always, remains: How well do these ingredients work?
This is a patented combination of cetearyl olivate and sorbitan olivate, both of which are (you guessed it!) derived from olive oil. Olivem is an emulsifier made from the esterification of fatty acid groups found in stabilized olive oil, and is considered to be a great moisturizer. It works by forming liquid crystal structures to create oil-in-water substances. This suspension allows its polar and non-polar ends to go into the water and lipid substances, respectively (Cosmetic Science Technology).
It is this formation that allows it to be very hydrating; studies have shown it to increase skin’s hydration capacity both short- and long-term (Cosmetic Science Technology). Unfortunately, there is very little published information regarding its use in clinical trials.
Also known as saccharide isomerate, this is a plant-derived ingredient created by DSM Personal Care. It is an emollient that binds to free amino groups of lysine found in the keratin located in the stratum corneum (DSM). Because of this, it cannot be washed off easily, hence its marketing as an ingredient that hydrates for 72 hours (Cosmetics International). According to HAPPI (Household and Personal Products Industry), clinical studies have shown a 50% improvement in skin smoothness and softness as well as a 50% reduction in flakiness and itchiness after two weeks of application. Again, there is a lack of scholarly data available regarding this ingredient, so I can’t verify the logistics of the study.
White Tea Extract
White tea extract is a great antioxidant because of a polyphenol known as EGCG. This allows white tea extract to prevent oxidative stress and increase antioxidant enzymes after UV exposure (Carcinogenesis). When applied to the skin, it also acts as a photoprotector and boosts the skin’s immune function after UV exposure, thus helping it to fight against environmental oxidation (Science Daily). Additionally, white tea has been found to have more anti-mutagenic and prohibitory properties than the buzz-worthy green tea (Mutation Research).
Syn®-Coll can show up on your ingredients in a number of ways: palmitoyltripeptide 3, palmitoyltripeptide 3/5, or, more obviously, Syn®-Coll. The ingredient works by upregulating a cytokine called TGF-β, which helps to lower inflammation in the skin (Syn-Coll). In a controlled trial, sixty volunteers tested a 2.5% Syn®-Coll cream versus a placebo and a pamitoyl pentapeptide-3 cream twice a day for 84 days; by the end of the trial, users of the Syn®-Coll cream experienced significant inflammation relief ((International Journal of Cosmetic Science).
In addition to being an anti-inflammatory, Syn®-Coll also promotes collagen production by mimicking the thrombospodin I tripeptide sequence, making it an effective anti-aging ingredient (International Journal of Cosmetic Science).
Overall Rating: **
The cream has a minty smell and a strange taste, but, luckily, it isn’t sticky once it’s applied to lips, making it good for both day and night use. After having my roommate try it for four days (day and night usage), she remains skeptical of its effects; while her lips were a little more red, she wasn’t overwhelmed by the results. Based on the current available studies, Your Best Face Define Lip Cream should work with continued use, though I have reservations about how dramatic the results will be.
Ingredients: reverse osmosis water, xylitol, olivem (cetearyl olivate, sorbitan olivate), Pentavitin (saccharide isomerate), ethehexyl palmitate, white tea (reverse osmosis water, white tea), Syn-Coll (glycerin, palmitoyl tripeptide-5), Hilurip (isohexadecane, BIS-PEG/PPG-14/14 dimethicone, ethylene/propylene/styrene copolymer, butylene/ethylene/styrene copolymer, cyclopentasiloxane, sodium hyaluronate, xanthan gum, tripeptide-1),vitamin e, meadowfoam seed oil, alpha arbutin, licorice root extract, Syn-Tacks (glycerin, palmitoyl dipeptide-5, diaminobutyroyl hydroxythreonine, palmitoyl dipeptide-5 diaminohydroxybutyrate), niacin, lipochroman-6 (dimethylmethoxy chromanol), sodium hyaluronate, spin trap (phenyl butyl nitrone), superoxide dismutase, peppermint oil, lemon oil, blue tansy oil, blue chamomile oil, paraben du