I’ll admit it: Before creating my own line, as a beauty blogger for seven years, I tried a lot of products, and would get really sensitive skin at times. During those times, I turned to my favorite soothing ingredients — oatmeal extract, niacinamide, green tea, Dragocalm, and kinetin. Formulated with more kinetin than any other line I could find, Kinerase does a great job at providing soothing and anti-aging action. The Kinerase C8 Solutions Kit ($119, FutureDerm.com/Shop) soothes the face and undereye area with a two-part face and undereye treatment.
Kinetin: Anti-Aging Protection Like 0.02% Tretinoin (but Not 0.04% or Higher)
Kinetin has often been touted as a “sensitive skin alternative to retinoids.” Published research shows 0.1% kinetin (as in Kinerase products) may be more effective than 0.02% tretinoin, but not more effective than 0.04%-1% tretinoin. Like retinoids, kinetin increases the rate of cell cycle and can induce the synthesis of DNA repair enzymes (Cosmetic Dermatology).
However, in a 2004 review by HA Epstein, a summary of similar studies comparing patients’ opinions about Renova (tretinoin) to kinetin found that signs of photoaging (skin roughness, mottling, and fine wrinkling) doubled when Renova was used with kinetin, versus kinetin alone.
An Effective Antioxidant that Mimics Superoxide Dismutase
Kinetin was been found in a 2000 study to be a strong inhibitor of damage in skin cells by mimicking a powerful antioxidant in the skin known as superoxide dismutase. Among other things, superoxide dismutase activates enzymes that breakdown free radicals, including superoxide dismutase and catalase.
Unfortunately, no published independent studies compare the antioxidant capacity of kinetin to potent antioxidants such as coffee berry, green tea, vitamin C or vitamin E.
When Do You Use Kinetin vs. Retinoids?
When my skin is feeling super sensitive, I use kinetin, oatmeal, green tea, Dragocalm, and niacinamide alone.
As soon as it starts to feel a little better, I add in a retinoid, but still continue to use kinetin and the other soothing agents.
Once my skin is back to normal, I’m back to the full-fledged superfecta of powerful antioxidants, retinoids, alpha hydroxy acids (though not at the same time as retinoids), niacinamide, and peptides.
When my skin is feeling ultra sensitive, I reach for this treatment serum. It’s great for the temporary irritation that can occur with regular use of retinoids, alpha hydroxy acids, and even after lasers or chemical peels. In short, I’m a fan of the Kinerase C8 Solutions Kit, and maintain results with it when potent anti-agers get to be too much for my skin.
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