There are issues that might have members of a community on opposite sides, like when your family debates whether to serve turkey or ham for dinner when your nephew comes home from college. And then there are issues that divide the dermatology community, such as whether or not peptides have value.
The Peptide Controversy
Some experts, like one of my favorites, esteemed dermatologist Dr. Leslie Baumann, M.D., say that peptides are a part of a series of substances that do absolutely nothing: “Many active ingredients that are used as “buzz words” in skin care cannot penetrate the skin, leaving them useless, for instance: Oxygen, Stem Cells, Hyaluronic acid and Peptides.” (source)
On the other hand, other dermatologists seem to think that certain peptides are the wave of the future. In fact, derms like Dr. Francesca Fusco, M.D., recommend starting a peptide cream as anti-aging in your 20’s (source). There are a number of studies that support peptide use, including palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 and palmitoyl oligopeptide. For example, double-blind study with a control group that had participants apply different things to each side of their face found that palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 effectively increase the production of collagen and of extracellular matrix proteins (International Journal of Cosmetic Science). As for palmitoyl oligopeptide, a study found that when palmitoyl oligopeptide stimulates collagen production in skin fibroblasts when used twice a day for six months (Dermatologic Therapy). It is believed that peptides may work by signaling receptors within the skin without having to penetrate the skin themselves, though the exact mechanism of action remains to be seen.
Acetyl tetrapeptide-5 (Eyeseryl®)
Acetyl tetrapeptide-5 is a part of this controversy. Found primarily in eye creams, acetyl tetrapeptide-5 has been shown to reduce puffiness and swelling by changing the micro-circulation in the skin in this area, making it less permeable to fluid (Clinics in Dermatology, 2009).
Marketed by Lipotec under the trade name Eyeseryl®, the company claims that regular use of 0.001% Eyeseryl can reduce the leaking of interstitial fluid into the eye by up to 50% — meaning your eyes have far less swelling and puffing (Monaster.au).
How Acetyl tetrapeptide-5 (Eyeseryl®) Works
How this works is a bit complex.Eyeseryl® works in two ways. First, it inhibits glycation in the skin around the eyes. Glycation normally causes abnormal, disorganized cross-linking in collagen fibers. Rather than having all of your collagen fibers working together in a unified, organized fashion, glycation causes skin to be less elastic. Eyeseryl® combats this by binding to one of the proteins that is involved in glycation, preventing this protein from binding to the next substance necessary to continue glycation, and hence stopping glycation in its tracks.
The second way Eyeseryl® works is by changing the permeability of your blood vessels in the region. (Yes, this sounds scary, but it actually is no scarier than putting pressure on a wound — you are simply changing the circulation). By decreasing the permeability of blood vessels in the region, you decrease the amount of fluid that can accumulate in the region.
Though only 20 individuals used the product for 30 days, 63-70% of them reduced their undereye bags, which is a beautiful thing, and more significant than existing treatments like caffeine. The ingredient appears to have a very high safety potential.
What are the Best Products with Eyeseryl®?
Of the products I have researched with Eyeseryl, the best is Correct by Your Best Face Skin Care ($160). This cream contains a lot of other beneficial ingredients, including Matrixyl 3000, Haloxyl, and many other great peptides. It does make a marked difference in your undereye bags and fine lines/wrinkles within a short amount of time.
Acetyl tetrapeptide-5 is a win for undereye bags and puffiness. If you have seasonal allergies, it’s an absolute must-have to pick up Correct by Your Best Face Skin Care Eye Cream and some Claritin!