Every morning for the past four-and-a-half years, I have religiously applied Skinceuticals CE Ferulic ($103.70, Amazon.com) to my skin before sunscreen. The change in my skin was drastic within months (so much, in fact, that it may have been one of the stimuli that made me believe in dermatology). At any rate, you can imagine my excitement when I came across a product with the same amount of vitamin C (15% L-ascorbic acid), half the vitamin E (0.5% alpha-tocopherol) plus 0.5% of the powerhouse antioxidant idebenone, for about $35 less. That product is Cellbone Technology C15ie Advanced C-Serum ($68.00, Cellbone.com).
What are the differences between Cellbone Technology C15ie Advanced C-Serum and Skinceuticals CE Ferulic?
Cellbone Technology C15ie Advanced C-Serum contains idebenone, which is a very potent antioxidant. In a 2006 study in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, idebenone was ranked the most effective antioxidant in reducing oxidative stress. The official ranking of the six antioxidants ranked in the study is (in order from highest to lowest): idebenone, with an EPF [rating] of 95; vitamin E (tocopherol), with an EPF of 80; kinetin, with an EPF of 68; ubiquinone, with an EPF of 55; vitamin C (ascorbic acid), with an EPF of 52; and lipoic acid, with an EPF of 41. Unfortunately, other powerful antioxidants, like green tea, white tea, and coffeeberry, were not included in the study.
Skinceuticals CE Ferulic ($114.00, Amazon.com) contains no idebenone, but the same percentage of vitamin C (as L-ascorbic acid) and twice the concentration of vitamin E (as tocopherol acetate) as the Cellbone Technology C15ie Advanced C-Serum. The advantages of Skinceuticals CE Ferulic are that it carries twice the concentration of vitamin E and includes ferulic acid, which stabilizes vitamin C and E, increases antioxidant activity, and reduces the quantity of sunburned cells after UV exposure (see graphs below). Unfortunately, no studies have directly compared the stabilizing, antioxidant, or sunburn reduction activity of idebenone or ferulic acid, so it is difficult at this time to know for sure whether Cellbone Technology C15ie Advanced C-Serum or Skinceuticals CE Ferulic provides optimal protection.
Antioxidant protection of Skinceuticals CE Ferulic. Courtesy Skinceuticals.com
Why are vitamins C and E so important in skin care products?
According to Dr. Leslie Baumann‘s Cosmetic Dermatology textbook, vitamin C and vitamin E are network antioxidants that have been found to synergistically enhance the power of one another. (When one antioxidant is depleted, it can essentially “borrow” an electron from the other antioxidant to renew itself, and vice versa). Vitamins C and E as L-ascorbic acid and tocopheryl acetate have also been reported by Djerassi et. al. to prevent the formation of carcinogenic nitrosamines. Vitamin C and vitamin E have also been shown in this 1996 study, amongst others, to enhance the photoprotective effects of sunscreen, as vitamin C has been reported to enhance UVA protection, whereas vitamin E is more effective against UVB radiation.
Lastly, vitamin C has also been found to decrease hyperpigmentation, although a study in the International Journal of Dermatology found that 4% hydroquinone was more effective in treating melasma than vitamin C as L-ascorbic acid. However, a separate study, also in the International Journal of Dermatology, found that combination therapy of 4% hydroquinone, vitamin C, vitamin E, and 10% glycolic acid was effective in treating signs of hyperpigmentation.
Vitamin E is naturally produced in sites rich in sebaceous glands, as it is physiologically delivered to the surface via secretion of sebum, according to this article in the journal Skin Pharmacology and Physiology. According to a second research study, this study by Packer and Valacchi, vitamin E may be the predominant natural antioxidant both in murine and human skin, and it shows a characteristic gradient with lower levels towards the outer stratum corneum layers.
So is Cellbone Technology C15ie Advanced C-Serum as Effective as Skinceuticals CE Ferulic?
Probably not, but it’s close. From ingredients alone, Cellbone Technology C15ie Advanced C-Serum certainly looks promising, with the same concentration of vitamin C as Skinceuticals CE Ferulic, and the addition of idebenone. However, the fact that Cellbone Technology C15ie Advanced C-Serum contains half the amount of vitamin E of Skinceuticals CE Ferulic concerns me, because vitamin E has many proven effects in the skin, particularly in conjunction with vitamin C. It’s a close call because 0.5% vitamin E and 0.5% idebenone have more antioxidant activity than 1% vitamin E. However, because vitamin C and vitamin E are network antioxidants that strengthen one another, 15% vitamin C and 1% vitamin E probably have more antioxidant activity than 15% vitamin C and 0.5% vitamin E and 0.5% idebenone. However, without a direct study, it’s hard to tell for sure. (If anyone knows, please contact me.)
Further, to determine the effect of Cellbone Technology C15ie Advanced C-Serum substituting idebenone for ferulic acid, a comparison study would need to be conducted. As a user (and avid fan) of Skinceuticals CE Ferulic for the past four years, I am planning to buy Cellbone Technology C15ie Advanced C-Serum next, and see what happens. (I will report results on the blog on March 26, 2008.)
Overall rating…
From ingredients alone, I give Cellbone Technology C15ie Advanced C-Serum a solid 9/10. (For the record, I give Skinceuticals CE Ferulic a 9.5/10, because of the higher concentration of vitamin E, and the established effects of vitamin E with vitamin C).
Ingredients in Cellbone Technology C15ie Advanced C-Serum
Water, L-Ascorbic Acid, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Propylenglycol, Glycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Zinc Sulfate, Bioflavonoides, Idebenone, Alpha Tocopherol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Centella Asiatica, Menthol
Ingredients in Skinceuticals CE Ferulic
Water, Ethoxydiglycol, L-ascorbic Acid, Propylene Glycol, Glycerin, Laureth-23, Alpha Tocopherol, Phenoxyethanol, Triethanolamine, Ferulic Acid, Panthenol, Sodium Hyaluronate