Unless you’re some sort of skin magician, chances are you’ve experienced under-eye dark circles at one point or another in your life. Some of us, myself included, are even lucky enough to have just been born with them (thanks, Mom). Philosophy Eye Hope™ Multitasking Eye Cream for Dark Circles, Puffiness & Lines ($29.95, amazon.com) promises to fix those dark circles while reducing inflammation and the appearance of lines. It sounds almost too good to be true, so let’s take a closer look at its ingredients to see if it can live up to its claims.
Alpha-Glucosyl Hesperidin
Alpha-glucosyl hesperidin is a composition that increases the water solubility of hesperidin while still retaining its biological activities (Hayashibara). Hesperidin is a bioflavonoid found in citrus fruits that possesses significant anti-inflammatory effects; it decreases capillary permeability by inhibiting the permeability-increasing hyaluronidase enzyme (Phytotherapy Research).
According to a Proctor & Gamble patent, alpha-glucosyl hesperidin also has skin-lightening and anti-aging effects, but these results have yet to be independently verified. Additionally, a study in Fragrance Journal found that adding alpha-glucosyl hesperidin to a lipstick formulation increased blood flow 30 minutes after application, helping lips to look more radiant. While this sounds like a promising ingredient, I’d like to see more independent research on its effects.
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-3
Also known as Syn®-Coll or palmitoyl tripeptide-3/5, this is an anti-inflammatory agent that works by upregulating a cytokine called TGF-β, which is responsible for lowering inflammation in the skin (Syn-Coll). A controlled trial published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science tested a 2.5% Syn®-Coll cream against a 10% pamitoyl pentapeptide-3 cream and a placebo twice a day for eighty-four days on sixty volunteers. Results showed that the 2.5% Syn®-Coll cream significantly improved collagen formulation. In theory, this should help minimize puffiness the morning after one of your late nights.
Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline
Dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline is an amino acid found naturally in collagen that has been linked to collagen structural stabilization through the formation of water bridges. It firms the skin by promoting interactions between fibroblasts and the extracellular matrix (ECM) (Cosmetics & Toiletries). Dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline also promotes the production of tissue inhibitors of metalloproteinases (TIMPs), enzymes that degrade collagen (Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology).
Beta-Glucan
Beta glucans are naturally-occurring polysaccharides that form the cell wall of some types of pathogenic bacteria and fungi (Medicina). Beta glucan is a moisturizer that also modifies biological responses and promotes wound healing. In a study with 27 subjects over a period of eight weeks, researchers found that it produced a significant reduction of wrinkle depth and height as well as the overall roughness of the skin. They noted that despite its large molecular size (1 x 10^6 Da), it was able to deeply penetrate the epidermis and dermis (International Journal of Cosmetic Science).
Another study published in International Immunopharmacology applied saline and beta glucan to burn-induced wounds in rats, which proved effective against oxidative tissue damage in rats, showing that it might have antioxidant properties.
Overall Rating: **
I’ve been using Philosophy Eye Hope™ Multitasking Eye Cream for about three weeks now, and I’ve noticed some results. The bags under my eyes are still there, but they don’t look as prominent; the same holds true for my under-eye circles. The differences are subtle, so I’m unsure if the product is working effectively or if this is just my hopefulness shining through, but I’ll keep using Philosophy Eye Hope™ Multitasking Eye Cream and see if the results are real.
Ingredients: Water, Glycerin, Behenyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, Silica, Isononyl Isononanoate, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Hordeum Distichon (Barley) Extract, Cetearyl Glucoside, Cetearyl Alcohol, Phenyl Trimethicone, Niacinamide, Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Retinyl Palmitate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-3, Beta-Glucan, Sodium Hyaluronate, Arginine, Allantoin, Santalum Album (Sandalwood) Extract, Phellodendron Amurense Bark Extract, Jojoba Esters, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), Coffea Arabica (Coffee) Leaf/Seed Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Powder, Tocopheryl Acetate, Glucosyl Hesperidin, C13-15 Alkane, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, C13-16 Isoparaffin, C12-14 Isoparaffin, Tris (Tetramethylhydroxypiperidinol) Citrate, Xanthan Gum, Disodium EDTA, Potassium Hydroxide, Potassium Sorbate, Hexylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin, Caprylyl Glycol, Mica (CI 77019), Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891).