For all of you out there who love a good sunscreen as much as I do, there is new hope: Tinosorb (bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine). Unlike some other sunscreens, Tinosorb is highly photostable, retaining its levels of UV protection even after exposure to UV rays. Yet, the best part of Tinosorb is that it is the most effective UV protection available for both UVA and UVB rays, according to a 2007 study published in the European journal Pharmazie. Tinosorb’s secret? It is not just a physical sunscreen that prevents UV rays from hitting the skin, or just a chemical sunscreen that prevents transmitted rays from damaging the skin, but instead, works as both, shielding and protecting the skin. Pretty incredible!
Based on current studies, it does not seem that long-term exposure to Tinosorb has any damaging effects, nor does it seem that irritation is common. Still, Tinosorb is a relatively new ingredient, and further studies need to be done to determine the ingredient’s true side effects, if any.
One further downside to this phenomenal sunscreen: Tinosorb has not yet acquired US FDA approval, as the process takes longer in the U.S. than in Europe, Asia, or Canada. According to MyWomanStuff.com, Tinosorb is available with powerhouse sunscreen Mexoryl in the European and Asian-marketed L’Oreal UV Perfect (iMallSingapore.com).
Can’t bring yourself to order overseas or to wait for FDA approval? Try using Tinosorb in the wash: According to the textbook Cosmetic Dermatology, an additional way to get the benefits of Tinosorb is to wash your clothes with it, as Tinosorb has a disulfonic acid triazine backbone that enables it to bind to cotton fabrics. The product is RIT Sunguard Laundry Treatment ($20.00, Amazon.com).
I’ll be updating when more information is available about Tinosorb products!
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July 22nd, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Sunblocks, sunscreen |
3 comments
Occasionally, a product comes along with a concept I adore. One such product is Priori Radical Defense ($120.00 retail, $110.00 on SkinCareRx.com). Named one of the 30 greatest beauty products of our time by the British Telegraph, Priori Radical Defense combines a potent dual chemical/physical broad-spectrum sunscreen of SPF 30 with antioxidant powerhouse idebenone in a side-by-side pump dispenser. Pretty clever, if I do say so myself.
Idebenone is an incredible antioxidant that is technically a stable analog of the antioxidant coenzyme Q10. Idebenone neutralizes free radicals and protects the skin from many UV-induced reactive oxidative species, according to the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. Idebenone use for six weeks was found in a 2005 double-blind study in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology to result in significant improvements in aging: in the study, forty-one female subjects, aged 30-65, with moderate photodamaged skin used creams with either 0.5% or 1.0% idebenone. After one-and-a-half months’ use of the 1.0% idebenone formula, a 26% reduction in skin roughness/dryness was observed, a 37% increase in skin hydration, a 29% reduction in fine lines/wrinkles, and a 33% improvement in overall global assessment of photodamaged skin. For the 0.5% idebenone formulation, a 23% reduction in skin roughness/dryness was observed, a 37% increase in skin hydration, a 27% reduction in fine lines/wrinkles, and a 30% improvement in overall global assessment of photodamaged skin.
In comparison with other antioxidants, idebenone is more effective at reducing oxidative stress than vitamin E, kinetin, ubiquinone, vitamin C, and lipoic acid, according to a 2007 study in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, and is second in antioxidant protection only to antioxidant powerhouse coffeeberry, found in the Revale Skin line.
In comparison with the other most potent antioxidant-sunscreen combination product, Revale Skin SPF 30 with CoffeeBerry ($72.00, Amazon.com), Priori Radical Defense contains a far better sunscreen combination. While Revale Skin SPF 30 with CoffeeBerry only offers SPF 15 and standard UVA protection, Priori Radical Defense protects with physical sunscreen (zinc oxide 8%) that prevents UV rays from hitting the skin, as well as chemical sunscreens (octinoxate 7.5%, octisalate 5%, and oxybenzone 5%) to prevent contacted UV rays from damaging the skin. Unfortunately, the idebenone in Priori Radical Defense is not as potent an antioxidant as the coffee berry in Revale Skin SPF 30 with CoffeeBerry, and some individuals (myself included) also experience sensitivity after idebenone use.
With that said, the following is the way I see it: If you are looking for potent antioxidant-sunscreen protection, and your skin is NOT sensitive, I say go with Priori Radical Defense, for the best sunscreen. However, if your skin IS sensitive, I say go with Revale Skin SPF 30 with CoffeeBerry. And because different antioxidants neutralize free radicals in different ways, it’s always a great idea to mix up the antioxidants you use. Try Priori Radical Defense during the day and Revale Skin Night Cream at night, OR Revale Skin SPF 30 with CoffeeBerry during the day and Priori Night Cream at night. No matter how you go, it’s a win-win! 
Product rating: 9.5/10 (High concentration of effective ingredients: 3/3. Novel technology: 3/3. Value for the money: 2,5/3. Sunscreen: 1/1).
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July 18th, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Anti-Aging Treatments, Antioxidant Treatments, Best Products, Best Products, Product Reviews, sunscreen |
one comment
Although shorter women can’t be runway supermodels, they may have one advantage: women who stand below 5 foot 6 inches tall are 30 percent less likely to develop skin melanoma than their taller counterparts, according to research from the Queensland Institute of Medical Research in Brisbane, Australia, reported in the August 2008 issue of Self. There are several reasons why taller women may be more susceptible to skin cancer. The first is that height may be linked with the production of higher levels of hormones that increase skin cancer risk. The second is that height may cause for taller women to absorb greater levels of damaging UV rays. Although shorter women receive more indirect UV light reflection from the ground, taller women have greater contact with UV rays. The third and final possibility is that taller women may just spend more time in the sun. (And really now, if you have legs like Gabrielle Reece, who wouldn’t live on the beach, lol).
Interesting study, indeed. :-) No matter what your height, avoid the sun between peak hours of 10 A.M. and 4 P.M. (except for 15 minutes/week, to avoid vitamin D deficiency); wear an SPF of at least 30 every day; and wear a wide-brimmed hat and sunglasses when you must be in the sun.
Come back tomorrow for a review of Priori Radical Defense!
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July 17th, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Controversy |
4 comments
Recently, I was surprised to find a line that gives whole new meaning to the word “cosmeceutical”: Exederm Ultra Sensitive Skin Care. Exederm is a line formulated for sensitive skin that contains no colors, parabens, lanolin, fragrance, sodium lauryl sulfate or formaldehyde. But what really surprised me about Exederm products was relatively high non-prescription concentration of hydrocortisone in the Flare Control Cream - 1%.
Hydrocortisone is a synthetic form of the stress hormone, cortisol, that used to be known as Compound E. Hydrocortisone was developed in order to treat allergic reactions and inflammation, and is used in concentrations of 0.5-1% (as in Exederm products) to treat sensitive skin symptoms. To treat sensitive skin and mild rashes, Exederm should be applied 2-3 times a week until symptoms cease.
Because hydrocortisone is absorbed in the bloodstream, it is well-known that prescription strength hydrocortisone can cause a variety of undesirable side effects (excess hair growth, burning, redness) with repeated use over time. For this reason, I personally use Exederm whenever I have contact dermatitis from trying a new product, and keep it in my medicine cabinet for those emergency cases. I wouldn’t personally use the Flare Control Cream for longer than two weeks at a time, to prevent side effects from occurring.
Exederm Cleansing Wash goes on without a lot of bubbles, which makes sense, with the low concentration of surfactants. Still, it leaves skin feeling clean without feeling dry or tight. The fact that the facial wash is completely free of oil, sodium lauryl sulfate, color, parabens, fragrance, formaldehyde and hydrocortisone makes it perfect for daily use.
Exederm Flare Control Cream contains 1% hydrocortisone, making it extremely effective but not suitable for long-term use. However, it is very effective against red, irritated, and itchy skin; in fact, I would venture to say that this is the next best thing to a prescription, since a doctor would give you 2-4% hydrocortisone, whereas this is 1%. I used it on a patch of poison ivy for the past 2 days (I just got a dog, and I chased her through a park…not a good idea, haha), and it really alleviated the itch. Ahhh….
Exederm Intensive Moisture Cream goes on light, but once on, you can tell that the second ingredient is super hydrator petrolatum. It is very hydrating and feels cooling on a rash. It doesn’t contain anti-aging ingredients or sunscreen, but it is a solid moisturizer that is suitable for anyone with sensitive skin.
Overall, I’m very impressed with the Exederm Ultra Sensitive Skin Care line. I especially love the Exederm Cleansing Wash for everyday and the Flare Control Cream for itchy redness for two week intervals. Overall, I give this line a solid 9/10. (High concentration of well-proven ingredients: 3/3. Unique formulation: 3/3. Value for the money: 3/3. Sunscreen: 0/1).
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July 15th, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Best Products, Best Products, Dry Skin Treatments, How to Get Rid of..., Product Reviews, Spotlight On..., eczema treatments |
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I apologize for not posting for a few days. I got promoted at work and got a puppy, so I have been very busy!
With that said, I was ecstatic to recently try NARS Balancing Foaming Cleanser and Hydrating Moisture Cream. Designed to be both luxurious and effective, the duo claims to be packed with Active Phytoseed Complex and antioxidants to reivtalize the skin.
NARS Balancing Foaming Cleanser contains mostly water, stearic acid, PEG-8, myristic acid, and glycerin. Stearic acid (octadecanoic acid for you organic chemistry lovers) is used to create a pearlized effect in the cleanser, PEG-8 is a surfactant, myristic acid is used to assist the absorption of quality ingredients through the skin as far as possible, and glycerin is used for hydration. The overall effect of these major ingredients is a sudsy, foamy, yet softening and hydrating, cleanser.
NARS Balancing Foaming Cleanser also contains soothing jojoba oil, aloe vera, and green tea. Jojoba oil has been documented in Pharmacological Research in 2005 to have soothing and anti-inflammatory properties, though the concentrations used in these studies are seemingly higher than in NARS Balancing Foaming Cleanser. Aloe vera has been documented as a soothing and hydrating source in many contexts, but a 1999 review in British Journal of General Practice sums its properties up well. Finally, green tea is a potent antioxidant that is able to reduce inflammation, soothe skin, prevent certain forms of cancer, and prevent the hardened aged state of collagen, glucosepane.
Once applied, NARS Balancing Foaming Cleanser goes on with lots of bubbles (which I happened to like). With the quantity of soothing ingredients, it left my normal-sensitive skin feeling mildly hydrated, not dry, like many other cleansers. I would recommend NARS Balancing Foaming Cleanser to anyone with normal-to-dry skin (not oily).
NARS Hydrating Moisture Cream contains a high concentration of six hydrators: aqua (Water), squalane, pentaethythrityl tetraoctanoate, butylene glycol, glycerin, and dimethicone. Beyond the high level of hydration, NARS Hydrating Moisture Cream contains retinyl acetate, which has been documented in The Journal of Investigative Dermatology to have anti-aging effects, despite the effect that it is more gentle for the skin than retinol or tretinoin. NARS Hydrating Moisture Cream also contains vitamin C as orange oil and ascorbyl glucoside (a stable form of vitamin C).
Once on the skin, NARS Hydrating Moisture Cream has a medium texture (not thin like a serum, but not thick like a heavy cream, either). Although the anti-aging ingredients (retinyl acetate and vitamin C) are not in very high concentration, the cream is hydrating enough for it to still be considered beneficial, particularly for those with sensitive skin.
Overall, I like NARS Balancing Foaming Cleanser and Hydrating Moisture Cream. Although the products’ anti-aging ingredients are in relatively low concentration and they are sunscreen-free (grrr), the products are also gentle, hydrating, and ideal for sensitive to normal skin. I give the line a solid 7.5/10 (High concentration of well-established ingredients: 2/3. New or novel formulation: 3/3. Value for the money: 1.5/3. Sunscreen: 0.5/1, with 0.5 because the product may be desirable as a night cream.)
For more information and ordering, please visit www.NarsCosmetics.com.
Ingredients in NARS Balancing Foaming Cleanser
Aqua (Water), Stearic Acid, PEG-8, Myristic Acid, Glycerin, Diproylene Glycol, Potassium Hydroxide, Lauric Acid, Glyceryl Stearate SE, Sorbitol, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, PEG-60, Glyceryl Isostearate, Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate, Citrus Dulcis (Orange Oil), Trisodium EDTA, Buxus Chinensis (Jojoba Oil), Alcohol, Propylene Glycol, Butylene Glycol, Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Barbadensis Extract), Camellia Sinensis (Camellia Sinensis Extract), Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber Extract), Tocopherol, Sodium Benzoate, Ethylparaben, Methylparaben, Propylparaben.
Ingredients in NARS Hydrating Moisture Cream
Aqua (Water), Squalane, Pentaethythrityl Tetraoctanoate, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Behenyl Alcohol, Cyclomethicone, Petrolatum, Stearyl Alcohol, Beheneth-20, PPG-12/SMDI Copolymer, Trisodium EDTA, Carbomer, Retinyl Acetate, Alcohol, Citrus Dulcis (Orange Oil), Polyvinyl Alcohol, BHT, Potassium Hydroxide, Vitis Vinifera (Grape Seed Oil), Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Prunus Persica (Peach Kernel Extract), Lilium Candidum (White Lily Extract), Foeniculum Vulgare (Fennel Extract), Rosa Roxburghil (Rosa Roxburghil Extract), Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, CI 77492 (Iron Oxides).
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July 14th, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Product Reviews |
2 comments
I’d like to know your skincare regime. What do YOU use in the morning and night? Additional information on why you use your products is appreciated. Thanks -Ben
Dear Ben,
Thank you for your e-mail. Here is my regime:
Morning
- Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser - a basic cleanser that many dermatologists love!
- Skinceuticals Phloretin CF - with the new antioxidant that provides some sun protection, phloretin,
- Skinceuticals CE Ferulic - used over Phloretin CF because Phloretin CF can be drying, and vitamins C and E are one of the most well-researched network antioxidant pairs, providing everything from additional sun protection to hyperpigmentation treatment to hydration
- Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Dry Touch SPF 85 Sunscreen - the most potent sun protection available
Night
- Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser
- Green Cream Level 6 - excellent retinol cream
- Olay Regenerist Night Cream - an excellent source of niacinamide
- Peter Thomas Roth Power K Eye Cream - the best eye cream I know of for my eyes, which are prone to dark circles from late nights studying, blogging, etc.
Hope that this helped!
Please note that I will try to do my best to answer as many e-mails as I can, but as I currently receive between 10-20 each day, I cannot respond to every e-mail I receive. I will try to respond to duplicate concerns on the blog!
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July 9th, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Uncategorized |
7 comments
Congratulations to Lauren L. and Hil’Leisha Anderson, winners of the FutureDerm.com and Schick Quattro July giveaway! Lauren L. and Hil’Leisha will each receive a Schick Quattro razor.
Congratulations to sofi76, ruby, Zahra, AliGrace, and Pam, winners of the FutureDerm.com and Spin Lash July giveaway! Each of these five women will receive a Spin Lash mascara.
Congratulations! Stay tuned for the awesome August giveaway, and daily updates starting July 9, 2008!
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July 8th, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Offers and Promotions |
one comment
Although the question as to whether or not there are definite advantages for natural skin care is still open, Aveda’s new Green Science Skin Care makes a strong case for the natural side of things. Aveda’s new line combines scientifically proven plant-derived ingredients with natural production methods (wind power!) and packaging to create a truly effective, yet earth-savvy, skin care line.
The active ingredients in the Green Science line include argan oil, which has received a lot of media attention because of its fair trade deal with the Targanine Cooperative, However, according to experts cited in Elle, magazine (June 2008), argan oil has three times the amount of antioxidant vitamin E found in olive oil. Further, Pat Peterson, the executive director of research and development for Aveda, tells the magazine, “The antioxidants and fatty acids work synergistically to stop inflammation.” According to Aveda’s in-house clinical tests, subjects showed a 38 percent improvement in lines after eight weeks of using the Green Science cream.
A second key ingredient in Aveda Green Science skin care, plai oil, has been cited in this 2003 report as having antioxidant and tyrosinase inhibition activity. A second study in Phytotherapy Research demonstrated that plai oil may have antimicrobial activity as well. This indicates that plai oil shows promise as a natural anti-aging skin care ingredient, though additional studies need to be conducted to determine just how much promise. Aveda further stresses that its plai oil sources are from rural and indigenous farmers in Thailand.
Other natural ingredients in the Aveda Green Science line include organic cactus, which shows some promise as a collagen production stimulant, glucosamine, which increases skin’s brightness somewhat, and boswellia, a natural anti-inflammatory.
Overall, if someone is committed to using only natural skin care, then Aveda Green Science Skin Care is a great way to go, as the ingredients are well-established for all-natural ingredients, the packaging is 100% post-consumer recycled PET jar, and even the manufacturing is 100% all-wind power. Just one caveat: with a list of ingredients this extensive, those with extremely sensitive skin may want to use the product with caution (or at least try it from a merchant with a forgiving return policy). All in all, though, an excellent line, one I give a solid 9/10.
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July 8th, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Anti-Aging Treatments, Best Products, Best Products, Natural Products |
one comment
Moringa is more than just a fun word to say…(aaaaaaay Moringa!), it is also an incredible new ingredient for skin care fanatics. According to the August 2008 issue of Lucky magazine, the flowers, leaves, and roots of moringa are edible and the oil of moringa is “an amazing moisturizer and antioxidant…it leaves hair shinier, skin soft and hydrated.”
Science validates the claims about moringa. According to this 2007 French study, moringa has hydrating and antioxidant properties that make it beneficial for the skin and the hair. This 1996 study in Plant Physiology and Biochemistry suggests that moringa oil may have some anti-tumor growth activity, an amazing property moringa shares with many other antioxidants. And moringa’s anti-carcinogenic activity was again suggested in this 2003 study.
While moringa is available in numerous products, here are a few of my favorites:
- The Body Shop Body Butter in Moringa ($20.00, Amazon.com). A shea butter formula complete with a fairly good concentration of moringa, I love the dual hydrating properties!
- Fresh In-Flight Face Kit with Moringa ($130.00, Amazon.com). A kit that keeps skin fresh, hydrated, and shielded from free radicals all through those oh-so-drying flights (recycled air, gross!). Best of all, the small bottles are easily transported, and the mask doesn’t need to be rinsed off! Loooove it!
For more on natural extracts, please visit the following pages:
Don’t forget to comment - each comment counts as 1 entry in the FutureDerm.com and Spin Lash giveaway, to be held tomorrow at noon!
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July 6th, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Anti-Aging Treatments, Antioxidant Treatments, Product Reviews |
2 comments
(This is not me. Thanks.)
1…Massage it when it’s new, according to Dr. Zoe Draelos, M.D., renowned North Carolina-based dermatologist. Draelos tells Self, “When a wound is pinkish in color as it heals, you can minimize the chances of a scar by gently massaging it…the stimulation helps align the collagen underneath the blemish for a less noticeable mark.” Who knew?
2. Consider silicone gel sheeting. According to a 2007 review in the Aesthetic Surgery Journal, silicone gel sheeting is the only form of treatment effective against hypertrophic (raised) scars. The study considered popular treatments like Mederma, adhesive tape, and polyurethane, and concluded that only silicone gel sheeting has conclusive evidence for being effective in the treatment of raised scars. Who knew?
3. Avoid vitamin E. It is well-known that vitamin E thins the blood, aiding in circulation. Unfortunately, this property of vitamin E may interfere with healing. According to a 2007 story in The New York Times, vitamin E was found not to have any healing properties by researchers at the University of Miami. In fact, in some cases, vitamin E induced contact dermatitis in patients, making matters worse. (In other words, stick with an aloe cream, gentle massage, and silicone gel sheeting.)
4. Choose the right concealer color. According to Dr. David E. Bank’s Beautiful Skin, if the scar is blue/purple, use a mauve color concealer to prime the area, and then follow with concealer or foundation. If the scar is the same color as your skin, take caution to use a concealer and foundation exactly the color of your skin. According to Dr. Bank, “Anything lighter will highlight the imperfection.” Makes sense, now that you mention it…
5. Consider the pulsed dye laser (administered by a licensed dermatologist). According to Dr. David E. Bank’s Beautiful Skin, treatment with the pulsed dye laser is efficient, and can reduce the appearance of raised scars and stretch marks, although it is most effective when the area is still pink.
Overall, take care of your scars when they are new, and your investment of time and effort will pay off for years to come. Of course, it’s never to late to start, so be sure to start with gentle massage, aloe cream, silicone gel sheeting, and consulting with a dermatologist about probable laser treatments.
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July 4th, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
General Cosmetic Dermatology |
one comment
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