Photo source: Sephora.com
Just when it seemed that cosmeceuticals couldn’t get any more powerful, leave it to Clinique (of the Estée Lauder companies) to take it up a notch. In January, a press release revealed that Clinique would team up with pharmaceutical powerhouse Allergan — noted makers of Botox Cosmetic, Juvederm, as well as supplies for laser hair removal, microdermabrasion and laser skin resurfacing — to produce a new skin care line designed to be used before, during, and after in-office dermatologist care. Now that time has almost arrived - the line premieres in October 2008 - and I’m super psyched about it! According to the September 2008 issue of Vogue, on newsstands now, the products include a Probiotic Cleanser and Skin Conditioning Treatment designed to prime skin two weeks prior to an in-office procedure; a Recovery Week Complex designed to calm inflammation, hydrate, and minimize hyperpigmentation the weeks following a procedure; and the Optimizing Treatment Cream for before and after an in-office procedure.
I can’t wait to try some of these new products (and pass the information along to my readers!) 
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August 23rd, 2008
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futurederm |
Cosmetic Dermatology News, Uncategorized |
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If you have fine lines or wrinkles, but don’t want to go through with Botox or hyaluronic-based fillers like Restylane, you may want to consider Freeze 24-7’s new Fix It Kit ($150.00, Amazon.com). The kit features deluxe sizes of: Freeze 24/7 Anti-Wrinkle Cream, EyeCicles Anti-Aging Eye Serum, IceCream Anti-Aging Moisturizer, and PlumpLips Lip Plumper. Although the company claims that the creams ”diminish the appearance of 50-90% of fine lines and wrinkles instantly,” the actual facial “freezing” varies from customer to customer, although there is at least some anti-wrinkle or “freezing” effect for most customers.
What’s the secret behind Freeze 24-7’s new Fix It Kit? GABA, an inhibitory neurotransmitter, may temporarily inhibit nerves and reduce the appearance of wrinkles when applied topically, but this effect varies from woman to woman, and is not usually anywhere comparable to Botox or other professionally-administered wrinkle reducers. It is also worthy of note that Freeze 24/7 Anti-Wrinkle Cream (with GABA) is said to improve the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines in as few as ten minutes after application, but its effects will not last a full day.
The other ingredients in Freeze 24-7’s new Fix It Kit include soothing aloe vera, somewhat effective line-filling cyclopentasiloxane, antioxidant powerhouse green tea, and pore-refining (and hydrating) niacin. Overall, the creams are hydrating, soothing, and somewhat effective in reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. The bottom line is, Freeze 24-7’s new Fix It Kit won’t replace Botox or wrinkle fillers, but it certainly will make you look better if applied an hour or two before a big event. :-) (After all, Freeze 24-7 reports that Eva Longoria, Marcia Cross, Katie Holmes, Neil Patrick Harris, Becki Newton, Julia Louis-Dreyfus, Debra Messing, Edie Falco, Jenna Fischer, Kathy Griffin, Lorraine Bracco, amongst many others, are all fans!) Product rating: 8/10 (High concentration of proven ingredients: 3/3. New technology or formulation: 3/3. Value for the money: 2/3. Sunscreen: 0/1).
Ingredients in Freeze 24/7 Anti-Wrinkle Cream
Water, Glyceryl Stearate, Seasame Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, PEG-150 Distearate, Cetyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Gynostemma, Bismuth Oxy Chloride, Gamma Amino Butyric Acid, Ethoxydiglycol, Eugenol, Polysorbate 60, Butylene Glycol Xanthan Gum, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Ehthylparaben and White Orchid Ext.
Ingredients in Freeze 24/7 EyeCicles Anti-Aging Eye Serum
Water, Glycerin, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Panthenol, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Gynosetemma, Pentaphyllum Extract, Aminobutryic Acid, Ethoxydiglycol, Eugenol, Phenoxyethanol, Benzyl Alcohol, Honey, Butylene Glycol, Green Tea Extract, Thioctic Acid, Lupinus Albus Seed Extract, Thymus Serpillum Extract, Vitamin E, Benaoic Acid, Honeysuckle Leaf Extract, CI177163 (bismuth Oxychloride).
Ingredients in Freeze 24/7 IceCream Anti-Aging Moisturizer
Aqua (Water), Cyclopentasiloxane, Camellia Sinesis Leaf Extract, Gynostemma Pentaphyllum Extract, Sorbitan Stearate, Glycerin, Butrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), Polysilicone-11, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Extract, Boswellia Serrata Extract, Hydrolyzed Hibiscus Esculentus Extract, Dextrin, Dimethicone, Stearic Acid, Carnosine, Sorbityl Laurate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Triethanolamine, Sodium PCA, Thioctic Acid, Carbomer, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Propylparaben, Butylparaben, Isobutylparaben
Ingredients in Freeze 24/7 PlumpLips Lip Plumper
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Niacin, Aminobutryic Acid, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Sorbitan Isostearate, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Retinol, Menthol, Vanilla Planifolia Fruit. May Contain CI 77891(Titanium Dioxide). CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499, CI 77489 (Iron Oxides), CI 77163 (Bismuth Oxychloride), CI 42090 (Blue 1 Lake), CI 19140 (red 7 Lake), CI 45380 (red 21 Lake), CI 45410 (red 28 Lake), CI 16035 (red 40 Lake), CI 77007 (ultramarines)
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August 22nd, 2008
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futurederm |
Product Reviews |
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Ever wonder if you are getting too much sun exposure? Skin Test Technologies UV Detector Card (Enviroscan.net) measures the intensity of the UV rays in the enrivonment you are in. After 10 seconds, the card changes color to determine the strength of the UV (both UVA and UVB) emitted. The card becomes particularly useful for those with skin cancer or who have recovered from skin cancer, who are wondering if it is safe to go outside. Although the FDA states that it is best to avoid the sun between the hours of 10 AM and 4 PM, if you want a more accurate determinant, the UV Detector Card is a great way to go.
The UV Detector Card works pretty well out in the sun, letting you know which of four levels of intensity the UV rays being emitted fall into. A high level of intensity makes me sure to break out my highest SPF sunscreen and wide-brimmed hat. However, just be sure not to let a low or moderate reading make you feel safe to go in the sun sans sunscreen!
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August 21st, 2008
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futurederm |
Uncategorized |
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According to Dr. Howard Y. Chang and other researchers at Stanford University, the answer is yes, “aging is a process that can be switched on and off.” In the study, dermatologists deactivated the key aging gene in the skin of aged mice, and when they knocked the gene out, the skin became youthful looking once again. Until a gene-targeting therapy is available for humans (a gene-specific cream is actually evidently in the works by the Stanford team), Chang and other researchers also note that staying out of the sun and using sunscreen may help the gene stay deactivated, since UV light activates the gene (surprise, surprise). I recommend Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Dry Touch Sunscreen SPF 85 ($10.44, Drugstore.com). And for more on the study, please see the September 2008 issue of Allure, fresh on newsstands now.
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August 18th, 2008
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futurederm |
Uncategorized |
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The direction you shave may be the culprit, according to Dr. Diane Berson, M.D., a NYC derm featured in the April 2008 issue of Self. According to Berson, underarm irritation (and perhaps irritation in other areas too) may be lessened by using a star pattern when shaving. Work diagonally up and down and side to side. This is because hair grows in all directions, and, according to Berson, “flipping your razor helps you destubble with fewer strokes.” Who knew?
For a close, irritation-free shave without a razor, I recommend the Braun Silk System Epilator ($57.54, Amazon.com). Although the feeling when shaving takes some getting used to (think tweezing out the hair on your legs), it also keeps you hair-free for days at a time. Eventually, after years of using the system, you only need to shave every 1-2 weeks. It’s a wonderful system, and highly recommended to anyone who doesn’t mind a little pain but who also has a problem with post-shave irritation or regular shaving! I personally have used it since I was 13, and now consider it a time-saving lifesaver!
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August 17th, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
General Cosmetic Dermatology |
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Ahh, yes, after months of arguing with my manicurist about this very topic, it turns out that she is right, and I should shut up already and just put my hands under the dang UV dryer. According to Valerie Monroe, beauty director for Oprah magazine, the UVA light emitted is only 10-30 watts, which is significantly less than the 2400 watts or so emitted by a tanning bed. According to Monroe-interviewed dermatologist Dr. Loretta Ciraldo, M.D., this wattage isn’t strong enough to merit concern. Instead, the UV light accelerates the drying time of acrylics or gel wraps, and regular polish is protected from discoloration by a simple clear top coat, according to Suzi Weiss-Fischmann, executive vice president of OPI. One of my favorite nail topcoats is Sally Hansen Nail Miracle, which hardens nails, protects polish, and can be used as a base and top coat.
So it turns out that there is officially no need to worry about needing SPF after that manicure…at least not until you reach the outside light, that is. 
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August 12th, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Controversy, Cosmetic Dermatology News |
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If you’re looking to do an alpha hydroxy peel, now is the perfect time: the summer’s vicious rays are coming to a halt, and there is all of June and July’s sun damage to reverse. One great new product for reversing the sun damage is new Skinceuticals Renew Overnight for Oily/Combination Skin ($52.00, Amazon.com). Replete with gentle alpha hydroxy acids like orange and lemon fruit extracts and orange oil, Skinceuticals Renew Overnight for Oily/Combination Skin truly can gently — but effectively — refine the skin over the course of a few weeks. According to Dr. David E. Bank, author of Beautiful Skin, alpha hydroxy acids cause increase exfoliation of the outer layer of skin, unplog pores, and function as a humectant to hydrate the skin. Bank also mentions that AHAs have further been shown to reverse sun damage in the epidermis, and to stimulate collagen and elastin production in the dermis. Dr. Leslie Baumann, author of Cosmetic Dermatology, further adds that AHAs have been reported in improving mottled pigmentation, fine lines, surface roughness, freckles, lentingines, and to treat actinic and seborrehic keratosis.
Another unique ingredient in high concentration in the product is bilberry. According to a 1994 review in The International Journal of Cosmetic Science, bilberry is an effective fruit acid for the skin, resulting in an accelerated rate of cell renewal. As cell renewal slows by about 7% each decade, the use of bilberry and other fruit and alpha hydroxy acids truly should make skin look younger.
From my personal experience with the product, Skinceuticals Renew Overnight for Oily/Combination Skin is a thin lotion that dries quickly on the skin, leaving it soft. My skin looked more smooth and even after a few days’ use, but I am making sure to use it in conjunction with a powerful daytime sunscreen, as alpha hydroxy acids make skin more sensitive to the sun.
Overall, a great product, particularly for this time of year. I give it a solid, enthusiastic 8.5/10. (High concentration of effective ingredients: 3/3. New or unique formulation: 3/3. Value for the money: 2.5/3. Sunscreen: 0/1).
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August 11th, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Best Products, Best Products, Product Reviews |
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Americans have it after dinner, Italians have it before, but new Jaqua Raspberry Buttercream Frosting Hand Creme ($8.00, Jaqua.com) lets you have (calorie-free) dessert at any time of the day. Reminiscent of a freshly baked raspberry cream cupcake, this stuff smells good.
The ingredients are good for your hands, too. Soybean oil is a skin-softening antioxidant that has been demonstrated to stimulate in vitro collagen production in fibroblasts. Continued use of soybean oil has been published in the research journal Dermatology to lighten hyperpigmentation (sun spots, etc.). A second key ingredient in fairly high concentration is meadowfoam extract. Although research on meadowfoam extract is limited, in the African Journal of Biotechnology, it was declared that the ingredient was “stable, non-greasy, and readily absorbed” and gives a “soft, smooth, silky feel” to the skin and the hair. Very nice indeed. The other main ingredients in the product are predominantly hydrators like glycerin, isopropyl myristate, cetyl alcohol (a good alcohol), and ethylhexyl palmitate.
The texture of Jaqua Raspberry Buttercream Frosting Hand Creme is light, and it drinks into the skin quickly, leaving skin soft and mildly slippery. Yet the best part of Jaqua Raspberry Buttercream Frosting Hand Creme, at least in my opinion, is the amazing smell. Comparable to Victoria’s Secret Love Spell (yes, it really is that good), I would say that Jaqua Raspberry Buttercream Frosting Hand Creme has what it takes to become a cult classic.
Overall, I love this product and carry it with me. Due to the lack of sunscreen, I put it on after washing my hands when I’m not going outdoors for a while, and switch back to Neutrogena Norwegian Hand Cream SPF 30 when I am going outdoors within 30 minutes or so. At any rate, a fabulous hand cream. Product rating: 9/10. (High concentration of effective ingredients: 3/3. New formulation or technology: 3/3, mainly for the amazing scent! Value for the money: 3/3 (only $8!!) Sunscreen: 0/1).
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August 10th, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Best Products, Best Products, Best Skincare Gifts, Hand Treatments, Product Reviews |
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One of my favorite products of all time, Elizabeth Arden Time Capsules, has just got a makeover. This month the company released its new Ceramide Gold Ultra Lift and Strengthening Eye Capsules ($52.00, Amazon.com).
What’s the difference from the original, you ask? The new formulation features more ceramides, ultra-hydrating shea butter, antioxidant softener olive oil, fatty acids, and a small concentration of vitamin C as ultra-stable tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate. This means that the formulation is instantly more hydrating and ultimately more beneficial than the former version.
Even better, Ceramide Gold Ultra Lift and Strengthening Eye Capsules feel better on the skin than the original. Although I didn’t even think the classic needed an update, this certainly was welcome. They’re perfect for dry or irritated undereye skin, and for temporarily plumping fine undereye lines a bit. Excellent eye serum!
Ingredients in Elizabeth Arden Ceramide Gold Ultra Lift and Strengthening Eye Capsules (new formulation)
Cyclopentasiloxane, Isododecane, Triisostearyl Citrate, Cyclohexasiloxane, Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Extract, Dimethicone, Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil Unsaponifiables, Ceramide 1, Ceramide 3, Borago Officinalis Seed Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract, Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Seed Extract, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil, Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel Oil, Urtica Dioica (Nettle) Extract, Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Retinyl Linoleate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Tocopherol, Phytantriol, Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Lecithin, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide 14, Ethoxydiglycol, Mineral Oil, Dimethicone Crosspolymer 3, Polysilicone 11
Ingredients in Elizabeth Arden Ceramide Eyes Time Complex (original formulation)
Cyclopentasiloxane, Isododecane, Triisostearyl Citrate, Witch Hazel Extract (Hamamelis Virginiana), Cyclohexasiloxane, Nettle Extract (Urtica Dioica), Apricot Kernel Oil (Prunus Armeniaca), Cucumber Extract (Cucumis Sativus), Ceramide 1, Borage Seed Oil (Borago Officinalis), Tetrahexydecyl Ascorbate, Phytonadione, Retinyl Linoleate, Tocopherol, Squalane, Phytantriol, Dimethicone
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August 6th, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Anti-Aging Treatments, Best Products, Best Products, Product Reviews |
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…It could be. According to Dr. Brunilda Nazario, M.D., in this month’s Women’s Health magazine (on newsstands), dry cleaners sometimes use perchlorethylene (perc), which can cause the dry, rashy symptoms owed to contact dermatitis in some individuals. Not sure if you’re one of them? Wait until after you wear a dry cleaned article of clothing, and examine your skin. If you have the dry, red, irritated skin characteristic of contact dermatitis, believe me, you’ll know.
Luckily, you don’t have to resort to hand-washing just yet. Some dry cleaners offer a “green” service, according to Nazario, which uses high-pressure carbon dioxide instead of perc as a cleanser. Other dry cleaners offer silicone-based processing, which is less upsetting to the skin.
If you are interested in finding a dry cleaner that doesn’t use perc, visit www.greenearthcleaning.org for more information.
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August 5th, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Controversy |
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