FutureDerm.com

Perspectives from a future dermatologist

Product Review: Skin Test Technologies UV Detector Card

Ever wonder if you are getting too much sun exposure?  Skin Test Technologies UV Detector Card (Enviroscan.net) measures the intensity of the UV rays in the enrivonment you are in.  After 10 seconds, the card changes color to determine the strength of the UV (both UVA and UVB) emitted.  The card becomes particularly useful for those with skin cancer or who have recovered from skin cancer, who are wondering if it is safe to go outside.  Although the FDA states that it is best to avoid the sun between the hours of 10 AM and 4 PM, if you want a more accurate determinant, the UV Detector Card is a great way to go.

The UV Detector Card works pretty well out in the sun, letting you know which of four levels of intensity the UV rays being emitted fall into.  A high level of intensity makes me sure to break out my highest SPF sunscreen and wide-brimmed hat.  However, just be sure not to let a low or moderate reading make you feel safe to go in the sun sans sunscreen!  :-)

 

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August 21st, 2008 Posted by futurederm | Uncategorized | no comments

This Just In: A Gene For Aging?

According to Dr. Howard Y. Chang and other researchers at Stanford University, the answer is yes, “aging is a process that can be switched on and off.”  In the study, dermatologists deactivated the key aging gene in the skin of aged mice, and when they knocked the gene out, the skin became youthful looking once again.  Until a gene-targeting therapy is available for humans (a gene-specific cream is actually evidently in the works by the Stanford team), Chang and other researchers also note that staying out of the sun and using sunscreen may help the gene stay deactivated, since UV light activates the gene (surprise, surprise).  I recommend Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Dry Touch Sunscreen SPF 85 ($10.44, Drugstore.com).  And for more on the study, please see the September 2008 issue of Allure, fresh on newsstands now. 

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August 18th, 2008 Posted by futurederm | Uncategorized | 2 comments

Got Razor Irritation?

The direction you shave may be the culprit, according to Dr. Diane Berson, M.D., a NYC derm featured in the April 2008 issue of Self. According to Berson, underarm irritation (and perhaps irritation in other areas too) may be lessened by using a star pattern when shaving.  Work diagonally up and down and side to side.  This is because hair grows in all directions, and, according to Berson, “flipping your razor helps you destubble with fewer strokes.”  Who knew?

For a close, irritation-free shave without a razor, I recommend the Braun Silk System Epilator ($57.54, Amazon.com).  Although the feeling when shaving takes some getting used to (think tweezing out the hair on your legs), it also keeps you hair-free for days at a time.  Eventually, after years of using the system, you only need to shave every 1-2 weeks.  It’s a wonderful system, and highly recommended to anyone who doesn’t mind a little pain but who also has a problem with post-shave irritation or regular shaving!  I personally have used it since I was 13, and now consider it a time-saving lifesaver!  :-)

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August 17th, 2008 Posted by futurederm | General Cosmetic Dermatology | 2 comments

Controversy: Are The UV Lights in Nail Salons Harmful?

Ahh, yes, after months of arguing with my manicurist about this very topic, it turns out that she is right, and I should shut up already and just put my hands under the dang UV dryer. According to Valerie Monroe, beauty director for Oprah magazine, the UVA light emitted is only 10-30 watts, which is significantly less than the 2400 watts or so emitted by a tanning bed.  According to Monroe-interviewed dermatologist Dr. Loretta Ciraldo, M.D., this wattage isn’t strong enough to merit concern.  Instead, the UV light accelerates the drying time of acrylics or gel wraps, and regular polish is protected from discoloration by a simple clear top coat, according to Suzi Weiss-Fischmann, executive vice president of OPI. One of my favorite nail topcoats is Sally Hansen Nail Miracle, which hardens nails, protects polish, and can be used as a base and top coat.

So it turns out that there is officially no need to worry about needing SPF after that manicure…at least not until you reach the outside light, that is.  ;-)

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August 12th, 2008 Posted by futurederm | Controversy, Cosmetic Dermatology News | one comment

Product Review: Skinceuticals Renew Overnight for Oily/Combination Skin

If you’re looking to do an alpha hydroxy peel, now is the perfect time: the summer’s vicious rays are coming to a halt, and there is all of June and July’s sun damage to reverse. One great new product for reversing the sun damage is new Skinceuticals Renew Overnight for Oily/Combination Skin ($52.00, Amazon.com). Replete with gentle alpha hydroxy acids like orange and lemon fruit extracts and orange oil, Skinceuticals Renew Overnight for Oily/Combination Skin truly can gently — but effectively — refine the skin over the course of a few weeks. According to Dr. David E. Bank, author of Beautiful Skin, alpha hydroxy acids cause increase exfoliation of the outer layer of skin, unplog pores, and function as a humectant to hydrate the skin. Bank also mentions that AHAs have further been shown to reverse sun damage in the epidermis, and to stimulate collagen and elastin production in the dermis. Dr. Leslie Baumann, author of Cosmetic Dermatology, further adds that AHAs have been reported in improving mottled pigmentation, fine lines, surface roughness, freckles, lentingines, and to treat actinic and seborrehic keratosis.

Another unique ingredient in high concentration in the product is bilberry. According to a 1994 review in The International Journal of Cosmetic Science, bilberry is an effective fruit acid for the skin, resulting in an accelerated rate of cell renewal. As cell renewal slows by about 7% each decade, the use of bilberry and other fruit and alpha hydroxy acids truly should make skin look younger.

From my personal experience with the product, Skinceuticals Renew Overnight for Oily/Combination Skin is a thin lotion that dries quickly on the skin, leaving it soft. My skin looked more smooth and even after a few days’ use, but I am making sure to use it in conjunction with a powerful daytime sunscreen, as alpha hydroxy acids make skin more sensitive to the sun.

Overall, a great product, particularly for this time of year. I give it a solid, enthusiastic 8.5/10. (High concentration of effective ingredients: 3/3. New or unique formulation: 3/3. Value for the money: 2.5/3. Sunscreen: 0/1).

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August 11th, 2008 Posted by futurederm | Best Products, Best Products, Product Reviews | 2 comments

Product Review: New Jaqua Buttercream Frosting Hand Creme

Americans have it after dinner, Italians have it before, but new Jaqua Raspberry Buttercream Frosting Hand Creme ($8.00, Jaqua.com) lets you have (calorie-free) dessert at any time of the day.  Reminiscent of a freshly baked raspberry cream cupcake, this stuff smells good.

The ingredients are good for your hands, too.  Soybean oil is a skin-softening antioxidant that has been demonstrated to stimulate in vitro collagen production in fibroblasts.  Continued use of soybean oil has been published in the research journal Dermatology to lighten hyperpigmentation (sun spots, etc.).  A second key ingredient in fairly high concentration is meadowfoam extract.  Although research on meadowfoam extract is limited, in the African Journal of Biotechnology, it was declared that the ingredient was “stable, non-greasy, and readily absorbed” and gives a “soft, smooth, silky feel” to the skin and the hair.  Very nice indeed.  The other main ingredients in the product are predominantly hydrators like glycerin, isopropyl myristate, cetyl alcohol (a good alcohol), and ethylhexyl palmitate.

The texture of Jaqua Raspberry Buttercream Frosting Hand Creme is light, and it drinks into the skin quickly, leaving skin soft and mildly slippery.  Yet the best part of Jaqua Raspberry Buttercream Frosting Hand Creme, at least in my opinion, is the amazing smell.  Comparable to Victoria’s Secret Love Spell (yes, it really is that good), I would say that Jaqua Raspberry Buttercream Frosting Hand Creme has what it takes to become a cult classic.

Overall, I love this product and carry it with me.  Due to the lack of sunscreen, I put it on after washing my hands when I’m not going outdoors for a while, and switch back to Neutrogena Norwegian Hand Cream SPF 30 when I am going outdoors within 30 minutes or so.  At any rate, a fabulous hand cream. Product rating: 9/10.  (High concentration of effective ingredients: 3/3.  New formulation or technology: 3/3, mainly for the amazing scent!  Value for the money: 3/3 (only $8!!)  Sunscreen: 0/1). 

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August 10th, 2008 Posted by futurederm | Best Products, Best Products, Best Skincare Gifts, Hand Treatments, Product Reviews | no comments

Just Released: Even Better Undereye Time Capsules from Elizabeth Arden

One of my favorite products of all time, Elizabeth Arden Time Capsules, has just got a makeover. This month the company released its new Ceramide Gold Ultra Lift and Strengthening Eye Capsules ($52.00, Amazon.com).

What’s the difference from the original, you ask? The new formulation features more ceramides, ultra-hydrating shea butter, antioxidant softener olive oil, fatty acids, and a small concentration of vitamin C as ultra-stable tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate.  This means that the formulation is instantly more hydrating and ultimately more beneficial than the former version.

Even better, Ceramide Gold Ultra Lift and Strengthening Eye Capsules feel better on the skin than the original.  Although I didn’t even think the classic needed an update, this certainly was welcome.  They’re perfect for dry or irritated undereye skin, and for temporarily plumping fine undereye lines a bit.  Excellent eye serum!

Ingredients in Elizabeth Arden Ceramide Gold Ultra Lift and Strengthening Eye Capsules (new formulation)

Cyclopentasiloxane, Isododecane, Triisostearyl Citrate, Cyclohexasiloxane, Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Extract, Dimethicone, Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil Unsaponifiables, Ceramide 1, Ceramide 3, Borago Officinalis Seed Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract, Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Seed Extract, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil, Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel Oil, Urtica Dioica (Nettle) Extract, Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Retinyl Linoleate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Tocopherol, Phytantriol, Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Lecithin, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide 14, Ethoxydiglycol, Mineral Oil, Dimethicone Crosspolymer 3, Polysilicone 11

Ingredients in Elizabeth Arden Ceramide Eyes Time Complex (original formulation)

Cyclopentasiloxane, Isododecane, Triisostearyl Citrate, Witch Hazel Extract (Hamamelis Virginiana), Cyclohexasiloxane, Nettle Extract (Urtica Dioica), Apricot Kernel Oil (Prunus Armeniaca), Cucumber Extract (Cucumis Sativus), Ceramide 1, Borage Seed Oil (Borago Officinalis), Tetrahexydecyl Ascorbate, Phytonadione, Retinyl Linoleate, Tocopherol, Squalane, Phytantriol, Dimethicone

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August 6th, 2008 Posted by futurederm | Anti-Aging Treatments, Best Products, Best Products, Product Reviews | one comment

Is Your Dry Cleaning Habit Bad For Your Skin?

…It could be.  According to Dr. Brunilda Nazario, M.D., in this month’s Women’s Health magazine (on newsstands), dry cleaners sometimes use perchlorethylene (perc), which can cause the dry, rashy symptoms owed to contact dermatitis in some individuals.  Not sure if you’re one of them?  Wait until after you wear a dry cleaned article of clothing, and examine your skin.  If you have the dry, red, irritated skin characteristic of contact dermatitis, believe me, you’ll know.

Luckily, you don’t have to resort to hand-washing just yet.  Some dry cleaners offer a “green” service, according to Nazario, which uses high-pressure carbon dioxide instead of perc as a cleanser.  Other dry cleaners offer silicone-based processing, which is less upsetting to the skin.

If you are interested in finding a dry cleaner that doesn’t use perc, visit www.greenearthcleaning.org for more information.

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August 5th, 2008 Posted by futurederm | Controversy | no comments

Product Review: The Ped Egg

As an aspiring dermatologist and beauty blogger, I absolutely thrive on the quest for soft, beautiful skin.  Unfortunately, I also have the dry, callused feet of an avid runner and a daily high-heel devotee, so when my friend Robin suggested that I try The Ped Egg ($17.90 and includes 3 replacement blades, Amazon.com), I jumped right on board.  And the results, to be honest, were nothing short of amazing!  The Ped Egg provides a cheap and effective way to gently slough off calluses and other dead skin.  Although it reportedly has 138 microblades, it simply cuts through your calluses with gentle strokes.  Best yet, The Ped Egg catches the skin in the back compartment (like a cheese grater for the feet!), so there’s no mess.

I’m a huge devotee of The Ped Egg, and I bought two tonight (one for me, one for my mom!)  It’s pretty amazing, to say the least.  Used before applying a hydrating cream under 100% cotton socks overnight, you won’t recognize your feet in the morning!  :-)  (And no, I don’t work for The Ped Egg, lol, I just really, really loved this product!)

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August 4th, 2008 Posted by futurederm | Best Products, Product Reviews | 4 comments

A Great Moisturizer For Oily Skin: Dermelect Cosmeceuticals Pore Revolution and T-Zone Mattifier

 

Every once in a while, I stumble across a product that is ideal for people with a certain type of skin.  That’s the case with the new Dermelect Cosmeceuticals Pore Revolution and T-Zone Mattifier ($20.74 when bought through EBates.com [sign up and search for the product through the site, so this is the lowest price I could find]), which promises to relieve just about every annoying symptom there is about oily skin, from visible pores to shininess to acne production.

How does the product work?  The main secrets are the salicyclic acid, tea tree oil, and the dry silicone base.  Salicyclic acid, a beta-hydroxy acid, gently cleanses and exfoliates the skin by softening keratin and thereby loosening dry scaly skin, effectively increasing cell turnover and unclogging the pores.  For this reason, salicyclic acid is included in many anti-acne products.  In addition, although found in lower concentration, the product’s tea tree leaf oil may reduce the occurrence of acne in a manner similar to benzoyl peroxide, though at a much slower rate.  Tea tree oil used topically may also control oil production, according to many sources, including The Prescription for Nutritional Healing.  Finally, the cream’s dry, powdery consistency leaves skin feeling soft without being oily, shiny, or sticky.

My only potential complaints about Dermelect Cosmeceuticals Pore Revolution and T-Zone Mattifier are the smell (a bit medicinal) and the fact that it doesn’t contain sunscreen, so it should be reserved for nighttime use.  Still, though, with a dab of your favorite perfume, it’s the perfect thing to use for your oily skin before a big night out!  :-)  I give it a solid, enthusiastic 9/10 for anyone with oily skin. 

 

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August 3rd, 2008 Posted by futurederm | Uncategorized | no comments

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