Ah, just when I think I’ve heard it all, I run across MaMa Lotion ($44.50, Cosmeticville.com). A dermatological-grade potent combination of 20% unique alpha hydroxy acids (10% mandelic acid, 10% malic acid), MaMa Lotion has what it takes to become a new regular in my skin care line-up, reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, freckles, acne blemishes, acne scarring, hyperpigmentation, enlarged pores, melasma, ingrown hairs, and rough skin.
One of the main ingredients in MaMa Lotion, mandelic acid, is an alpha hydroxy acid derived from almonds. According to research published in the journal Tetrahedron, mandelic acid is a potent antioxidant, preventing skin lipid peroxidation when applied topically. A review in Clinics in Dermatology further affirms that mandelic acid is an AHA tat is able to treat signs of photoaging (including skin roughness and fine lines). Interestingly enough, mandelic acid is also used at 0.5% in antimicrobial solutions as an activating solution for 0.1% sodium chlorite.
Malic acid (hydroxybutanedioic acid) is an alpha hydroxy acid that is found naturally in apples. In the Journal of Dermatology, a published study found that a combination of malic acid and glycolic acid increased cell proliferation and functional activation of fibroblasts, indicating that the ingredient is effective in stimulating collagen production. Although it has been reported in the International Journal of Skin Science that malic acid is somewhat less effective than the alpha hydroxy acids glycolic acid and lactic acid, in combination with other AHAs (like the mandelic acid in MaMa Lotion), malic acid has been reported to have great efficacy in treating skin roughness, fine lines, and hyperpigmentation. Unlike the other AHAs, malic acid has also been demonstrated to have some level of anti-microbial activity, as reported in The American Journal of Enology and Viticulture.
Skin following 1 month treatment with MaMa Lotion.
MaMa Lotion is a very strong and effective product, with 20% AHAs and a pH of 2.5. For this reason, special instructions are necessary for those using MaMa Lotion; namely, MaMa Lotion should not be used more than twice a week for the first few weeks, and usage can then be increased to every other day or everyday, depending on the skin’s tolerance of the product. A gentle, broad-spectrum sunscreen, like LaRoche Posay, should be used everyday in conjunction with the product, and other products with AHAs, retinol, and the sun should be avoided. Those with darker skin should additionally consult this page for further instructions.
Although MaMa Lotion goes on very thick, it absorbs into the skin within 10-15 minutes, leaving the skin extremely smooth. The treatment can also be used on rough areas like the knees, elbows, and feet (with appropriate sun protection on these areas, of course!) With that said, I love MaMa Lotion. Although the very potent product does need to be used with caution, when used properly and in conjunction with proper sun protection, it really gives skin a fantastic glow! Product rating: 9.5/10. (High concentration of effective ingredients: 3+/3. New technology or unique formulation: 3/3. Value for the money: 3/3. Sunscreen: 0.5/1; there is no sunscreen in this product, but it should only be used at night anyway, so it is only a 0.5 deduction).
If you would like to try MaMa Lotion, Cosmeticville.com is currently giving away a free sample of MaMa lotion with any purchase! In the comments box at checkout, put - MaMa Lotion Sample. For more information, please visit Cosmeticville.com.
Water, Mandelic Acid, Malic Acid, Algae Extract, Polyacrylamide, Potassium Hydroxide, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Ubiquinone, Dimethicone, Cyclomethicone, Fragrance, Squalane, Laureth-7, Tetrasodium EDTA, Isopropylparaben, Isobutylparaben and Butylparaben.
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June 2nd, 2008
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futurederm |
Acne Treatments, Anti-Aging Treatments, Best Products, Best Products, Best Skincare Gifts, Firming Treatments, Hyperpigmentation Treatments, Offers and Promotions, Pore Size Treatments, Product Reviews, Special Offers, Wrinkle Treatments |
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As far as trace minerals in the skin go, you don’t get one much more abundant than zinc: the skin contains about 6% of all the zinc in the body, according to Joy Bauer, MS, RD, CDN and author of Food Cures. In the skin, zinc is responsible for protecting cell membranes and maintaining skin’s collagen levels. Dr. Howard Murad further sings zinc’s praises in The Murad Method: “Zinc is truly a workhorse ingredient…It protects the skin from UV light and other irritants and infection from bacteria and fungi…enhances the effects of vitamins A and E, and soothes irritation.” In fact, patients with severe zinc deficiencies can develop redness and pustules, as well as small blisters, crusting, and flaking lesions on the scalp, genitalia, and around the mouth, according to Dr. Audrey Kunin, dermatologist and founder of DERMADoctor.com. Kunin also notes that zinc deficiency may lead to hair loss.
According to Bauer, zinc is naturally found in all of the following sources:
- oysters
- lean beef
- crab
- ostrich
- pork tenderloin
- peanut butter
- wheat germ
- turkey
- veal
- pumpkin seeds
- chicken
- chickpeas (garbanzo beans)
- fat-free yogurt
- fortified whole grain cereals
- pine nuts
- cashews
- sunflower seeds
- lima beans
- lentils
- pecans
- cheese (fat-free, reduced-fat)
- fat-free milk
- almonds
- walnuts
- peanuts
- black-eyed peas (not these ones, hee hee)
- green peas
However, Bauer strongly advises not to take above 100% USDA daily values of zinc (15 mg per day). According to Bauer, “Excess zinc can inhibit the body’s ability to absorb copper, a minor but necessary mineral…[High levels of zinc] can depress the immune system and block copper’s availability in the body.” In fact, Bauer advises patients who ingest 80 mg of zinc/day (usually to treat macular degeneration) to also take 2 mg copper/day.
When applied topically, zinc has been shown to have significant antioxidant activity in this 2002 study in the International Journal of Dermatology, amongst others. According to the study, there are two mechanisms by which zinc may provide antioxidant protection: in the first, “zinc ions may replace redox active molecules, such as iron and copper, at critical sites in cell membranes and proteins; alternatively, zinc ions may induce the synthesis of metallothionein, sulfhydryl-rich proteins that protect against free radicals.” At any rate, zinc appears to be an effective ingredient in skin care products.
All in all, zinc is a pretty exciting ingredient, whether ingested or applied topically! Zinc is available orally in most multivitamins and the Murad Pure Skin Supplement ($39.50, Amazon.com), as well as the Murad Acne Spot Treatment ($12.00, Amazon.com). As always, talk to your doctor when starting a new program. 
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May 7th, 2008
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futurederm |
Acne Treatments, Spotlight On... |
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A few months ago, a reader sent me the PAC Perfect Acne System, which I sent over to one of my really good friends to use. Formulated with salicyclic acid and a special patented formula called Radiance Guard-64 (oligopeptide-10), the system has been shown in clinical tests to improve overall improvement in skin appearance in 60% of subjects using the P.A.C. Perfect™ system after eight weeks of treatment. But how effective does the scientific literature say the products’ ingredients are? And how did my friend like the formulation after several weeks of use? Read on to find out…
A high concentration of salicyclic acid
Salicyclic acid is a beta-hydroxy acid that is used to cleanse and exfoliate the skin. According to DermNetNZ, salicylic acid works by softening keratin, a protein that forms part of the skin structure. This helps to loosen dry scaly skin, increasing cell turnover and effectively renewing the skin. It is often used in acne treatments like the PAC Perfect Acne System to cleanse and to prevent clogging of the pores. According to Dr. Heather Brannon, M.D., a family-practice physician with a specialty in Dermatology, salicyclic acid is also reported to improve signs of aging including wrinkling, roughness, and mottled pigmentation of photodamaged skin with at least 6 months of daily application.
What makes salicyclic acid so pertinent in the PAC Perfect Acne System is that it is used in conjunction with oligopeptide-10, which has been shown in one study (mentioned here) to improve skin appearance. According to DermNetNZ, when salicylic acid with other effective ingredients (like oligopeptide-10), it often allows the other ingredients to better penetrate the skin and hence be more effective.
Gentle for sensitive skin and mild-to-moderate acne
The PAC Perfect Acne System is milder than other acne systems, without the retinol of the Murad Acne System or benzoyl peroxide of Pro-Activ Solution. Although both benzoyl peroxide and retinol are certainly effective against acne, the PAC Perfect Acne System provides an alternative for patients with both acne and sensitive skin. According to the company website, the moisturizer is oil-free and the system is compatible for use with other acne medications, though the company advises talking to your dermatologist to be sure.
In general, if you have sensitive skin and mild-to-moderate acne, using the PAC Perfect Acne System in conjunction with an on-the-spot over-the-counter acne treatment, like 10% benzoyl peroxide or Zeno, might be a great idea for you.
Will brighten the skin
The PAC Perfect Acne System contains Carica Papaya (Papaya) Fruit Extract, Quillaja Saponaria Bark Extract, and a small amount of glycolic acid to brighten the skin.
Will my acne get worse before it gets better with the PAC Perfect Acne System?
According to the company website:
- “an early “flair” associated with skin’s initial reaction to a new treatment is not uncommon. The P.A.C. Perfect™ System is formulated to help to minimize the occurrence of such a flair, but you should not be alarmed if your skin gets a bit worse before it starts to get better. The flair period should be over within the first two weeks of treatment.”
What my friend says after a month of use
After a month of using the PAC Perfect Acne System, my friend had the following comments:
- “The products feel smooth and silky on my skin. After, it feels like my face is clean. Not dry, but clean…If I had to put a percentage to it, I would say my acne has improved 50% since using the PAC Perfect Acne System. Most of the acne on my chin has cleared, and that’s where I used to break out the most. I still have tiny blemishes, but nothing major like I did.”
In my opinion…
I think that the PAC Perfect Acne System makes a great acne system for anyone with sensitive skin and mild-to-moderate acne who are tired of their skin getting dry or irritated after harsh acne treatments. Used in conjunction with an on-the-spot acne treatment, like 10% benzoyl peroxide or Zeno, this system has been doing great things! :-) Overall rating: 9/10 (-1 for no sunscreen)
Ingredients in P.A.C. Perfect™ Toning Cleanser
Salicylic Acid, Water, Lauramidopropyl Betaine, Sodium PCA, Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate, PEG-8 Dimethicone, Polysorbate 20, Carica Papaya (Papaya) Fruit Extract, Quillaja Saponaria Bark Extract, Saponaria Officinalis Extract, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract, Yucca Schidigera Extract, Benzyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Glycolic Acid, Citric Acid, Butylene Glycol, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose, Trisodium EDTA, Chlorphenesin, Methylparaben, Fragrance.
Ingredients in P.A.C. Perfect™ Treatment Essence
Salicylic Acid, Water, SD Alcohol 39-C, Butylene Glycol, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Polyvinyl Alcohol, Isohexadecane, Polysorbate 80, Oligopeptide-10*, Fragrance. (*Radiance Guard-64)
Ingredients in P.A.C. Perfect™ Nighttime Recovery lotion
Water, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Isopropyl Palmitate, Glycerin, Isocetyl Stearate, Water, Stearic Acid, Coffee Arabica Extract (and) Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract (and) Rosa Roxburgii Fruit Extract*, Glyceryl Stearate, Phenoxyethanol, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Xanthan Gum, Cetyl Alcohol, Triethanolamine, Disodium EDTA, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Fragrance. (*supplied as a proprietary blend.)
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March 12th, 2008
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futurederm |
Acne Treatments, Best Products, Best Products, Product Reviews |
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Salicyclic acid is found in 0.5% concentration in Neutrogena Body Clear Body Wash. Photo courtesy Amazon.com.
Salicyclic acid is a beta-hydroxy acid that is used to cleanse and exfoliate the skin. According to Dr. Heather Brannon, M.D., a family-practice physician with a specialty in Dermatology, salicyclic acid is also reported to improve signs of aging including wrinkling, roughness, and mottled pigmentation of photodamaged skin with at least 6 months of daily application.
How Salicyclic Acid Works
According to DermNetNZ, salicylic acid works by softening keratin, a protein that forms part of the skin structure. This helps to loosen dry scaly skin, increasing cell turnover and effectively renewing the skin. It is often used in acne treatments to cleanse and to prevent clogging of the pores.
When salicylic acid is used in combination with other treatments, it is often to allow the other formulation’s ingredients to penetrate the skin more effectively.
How Salicyclic Acid is Made
According to Wikipedia, salicyclic acid is biosynthesized from the amino acid phenylalanine. For all you super organic chemists out there, sodium salicylate is commercially prepared by treating sodium phenoxide with a high pressure of carbon dioxide at high temperature via the Kolbe-Schmitt reaction. Acidification of the product solution gives salicylic acid. According to Dr. Brannon, salicyclic acid works best in skin care in a concentration of 1% to 2% and at a pH of 3 to 4.
In what concentrations is salicyclic acid found in skin care products and medicines?
| Preparation |
Topical form |
Indications |
| Salicylic acid 2-3%, Betamethasone 0.05% (Diprosalic®) |
Lotion
Ointment |
Psoriasis
Hyperkeratotic eczema |
| Salicylic acid 15-27% (Duofilm®) |
Paint
Gel |
Viral warts
Corns |
| Salicylic acid 2%, Coal tar solution 12%, Sulphur 4% (Coco-Scalp®) |
Ointment |
Seborrhoeic dermatitis
Dandruff
Scalp psoriasis |
| Salicylic acid 0.5% oil-free acne wash (Neutrogena®) |
Cleanser |
Acne |
What Skin Care Ingredients Should I Use in Conjunction With Salicyclic Acid?
Be sure to wear a broad-spectrum, UVA/UVB sunscreen of at least SPF 15 everyday with salicyclic acid use, as advised by to Dr. Heather Brannon, M.D. The reason is that alpha and beta hydroxy acids tend to thin the skin, making it more susceptible to sun damage. If you are using beta hydroxy acids for the anti-aging effects, you are negating your purpose in the long run if you don’t use sunscreen!
What Skin Care Ingredients Should I Not Use in Conjunction with Salicyclic Acid?
According to DermNetNZ, skin care ingredients with any of the following ingredients should not be used in conjunction with salicyclic acid, unless you are advised otherwise by your physician:
- Medicated topical agents, e.g. benzoyl peroxide (unless you are using a benzoyl peroxide spot treatment in the morning and a salicyclic acid spot treatment at night), topical retinoids (unless you are using a salicyclic acid spot treatment and using retinoids elsewhere on your face), calcipotriol
- Abrasive soaps and cleansers
- Cosmetics or soaps that dry the skin or are designed to peel/exfoliate
What is the difference between an alpha hydroxy acid and a beta hydroxy acid?
Alpha hydroxy acids include glycolic acid and lactic acid, while beta hydroxy acids include salicyclic acid. Alpha hydroxy acids are water-soluble, while beta hydroxy acids are lipid-soluble (i.e., oil-soluble). According to Dr. Brannon, this means that beta hydroxy acid is better able to penetrate into the pores, so it is better used on oily skin with blackheads and whiteheads. On the other hand, alpha hydroxy acids are better used on thickened, sun-damaged skin where breakouts are not a problem.
Is salicyclic acid for everyone?
No. Salicyclic acid should not be used by zinc-deficient individuals, due to its ototoxic effects, or by women who are pregnant or nursing, due to risk of Reye’s Syndrome. In addition, some individuals are salicylate sensitive, and should not use salicyclic acid products nor take aspirin. Check with your doctor if you experience:
- moderate or severe skin irritation (particularly if not present before use of this medicine)
- flushing
- unusually warm skin and reddening of skin
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February 29th, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Acne Treatments, General Cosmetic Dermatology, Hyperpigmentation Treatments |
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According to Sephora, the Clarisonic Skin Care Brush ($195.00, Sephora.com) is one of the company’s best-sellers. Designed with a sonic frequency that moves more than 300 times per second, the brush claims to “remove six times more make-up” and “clear your pores, loosening dirt, make-up, and oil” when used twice per day. Yet how effective does the scientific literature say the Clarisonic Skin Care Brush is at achieving these aims? Let’s take a look…
How was the brush developed?
According to an eMedicine.com review by dermatologist Dr. Zoe Draelos, the brush was developed by Clarisonic/Pacific Biosciences Laboratories, the same team of engineers and researchers that developed the Phillips Sonicare Toothbrush. The device runs on a rechargeable battery attached to a miniaturized motor that creates an oscillatory motion of the brush head. While the oscillatory sonic motion was originally developed to remove more plaque from the teeth than ordinary brushes, a revision of the enlarged brush head with soft, tufted bristles was developed for cleansing the face.
Effective at loosening debris from the pores
The company’s claims are valid: According to the aforementioned eMedicine.com review by dermatologist Dr. Zoe Draelos, “the sonic motion of the brush aids in dislodging facial debris, much like the sonic surgical-instrument cleansers that are used to clean liposuction cannulas and reusable injection needles.” In addition, Draelos adds, “the bristles of the face brush are designed to traverse facial dermatoglyphics, pores, and scars,” so the Clarisonic Skin Care Brush may be suitable for patients with acne, as unclogging the pores is a common goal of treatment.
May lessen breakouts
According to a 2006 study in the journal Cosmetic Dermatology, the Clarisonic Skin Care Brush may oscillate at sonic speed in such a way that inelastic comedones (pimples) become loosened and detached from the infundibular wall, and are then cleared from the acroinfundibulum of the skin.
Not harmful for your skin
The 2006 study in the journal Cosmetic Dermatology states that the Clarisonic Skin Care Brush is a “gentle” means of cleansing and prevents the skin from being compromised by acute or chronic infections resulting from inadequate cleansing of the skin.
Do you need a special cleanser with the Clarisonic Skin Care Brush?
According to the Clarisonic website, “any non-abrasive cleanser can be used.” However, Clarisonic further recommends “optimized” use of the Clarisonic Skin Care Brushwith one of their three cleansers.
Of the three cleansers, my favorite is the Clarisonic Gentle Hydro Cleanser ($25.00, Clarisonic.com) for normal to sensitive skin. The cleanser contains a fairly high concentration of antioxidant vitamin E, and keeps drying low-molecular weight alcohols to a minimum. My second favorite is Clarisonic Refreshing Gel Cleanser for normal to oily skin, which contains natural moisturizing factor hyaluronic acid, and fair concentrations of antioxidants grape seed, green tea, and ubiquinone. My least favorite of the three is Clarisonic Nourishing Care Cleanser for normal to dry skin, which contains olive oil, sodium hyaluronate, and a low concentration of antioxidant green tea.
How often do the brush heads need to be replaced?
According to the user’s guide, the brush heads should be replaced every 90 days when being used at the recommended frequency of two times per day. Brush heads are $25.00 each, and are available from Clarisonic for normal, sensitive, and delicate skin here.
As A Result…
I can’t wait to try it! I love the new technology and the idea of “deep cleansing” skin without being harsh or abrasive. The only unfortunate part is the high price tag. Product Rating: 9/10 (Ingredients with substantive research backing in high concentration: not applicable, New technology: 3/3, Value for the money: 2/3, Sunscreen: not applicable).
For more information, visit the Clarisonic Skin Care Brush site here.
For 18+ customer reviews, visit Amazon.com here.
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February 22nd, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Acne Treatments, Best Products, Best Products, Best Skincare Gifts, General Cosmetic Dermatology, Product Reviews |
5 comments
Zeno ($185.00, Amazon.com) is a handheld acne device that supplies heat of 121oF to the area of a blemish for an average of 2.5 minutes to get rid of the blemish faster. Versus other acne treatments, how effective is Zeno? Is it worth the cost?
How effective is Zeno for mild to moderate acne?
In a double-blind, controlled clinical study by Bruce et al., it was found that Zeno use amongst 51 patients (mean age 20) resulted in a faster improvement of acne. As noted from the above graph, there is a more substantial gain from using Zeno at days 0-4 than thereafter, with the most substantial gains at days 2-3. On average, the patients who used Zeno had their blemishes gone 2.3 days faster.
How does Zeno work?
It is not exactly known. The heat supplied to the bacterial species most commonly responsible for acne, P. acnes, has been reported in the Annals of the New York Academy of the Sciences to be sufficient to increase the level of heat-shock proteins within the cell. However, according to the study by Bruce et. al., it is unknown whether these heat-shock proteins are the cause of death of P. acnes or an adaptive response following cell death. At any rate, the research indicates that Zeno does in fact kill P. acnes quickly.
What about Zeno in comparison to other spot treatments for mild-to-moderate acne?
No peer-reviewed published studies to date have compared the efficacy of Zeno to other acne treatments. However, in a 1995 study in the British Journal of Dermatology, it was reported amongst 12 patients using 5% benzoyl peroxide for two days that there was a significant reduction in the number of blemishes. Benzoyl peroxide has also been found by Nacht et. al. to kill bacteria by generating reactive oxygen species in the sebaceous follicle; however, because it triggers free radical formation, its use should be limited to the spot of the blemish, like Zeno. An advantage to Zeno over benzoyl peroxide is that benzoyl peroxide can denature tretinoin, one of several retinoids, so benzoyl peroxide cannot be used in conjunction with retinoids, while Zeno can.
What about Zeno compared to acne systems for the face?
90% of patients using the Murad Acne System for 4 weeks have also reported an improvement in the number of pimples, for $59.90. 80% of patients using ProActiv Solution for 3-6 weeks have reported the same, for $39.95. However, these studies cannot be compared in actuality because they were taken from two different sources. For a comprehensive list of several different acne treatments, please click here.
As a result…
Zeno is proven effective against mild to moderate acne patients only, with acne subsiding 2.3 days faster in patients who use Zeno than those who do not. However, the results need to be compared directly in a study with benzoyl peroxide users, as benzoyl peroxide is a proven effective, much cheaper on-the-spot acne treatment (for instance, ZAPZYT Acne Treatment Gel is $4.99 on Amazon.com). At any rate, for patients who find that their acne is resistant to benzoyl peroxide, Zeno makes a particularly attractive option.
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February 11th, 2008
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futurederm |
Acne Treatments |
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BENEV Azalex Gel contains 10% azelaic acid over-the-counter. Photo courtesy Amazon.com.
Azelaic acid (like kojic acid) is a bleaching agent that is commonly used in alternating four-month cycles with hydroquinone (Cosmetic Dermatology). Azelaic acid has also been found to be effective as an acne treatment, and, to a lesser extent, a rosacea treatment. However, how effective is azelaic acid? Could you use it instead of hydroquinone? And is it safe? For these answers and more, read on.
How effective is azelaic acid as a bleaching agent?
According to a double-blind study in the International Journal of Dermatology, over the treatment period (24 weeks), a 20% azelaic acid cream yielded 65% good or excellent results. In fact, 20% azelaic acid had “no significant treatment differences” observed when compared to 4% hydroquinone (the prescription level) with regard to overall rating, reduction in lesion size, and pigmentary intensity. Side effects, such as allergic sensitization or exogenous ochronosis (associated with hydroquinone) were not observed with 20% azelaic acid.
Should I consider azelaic acid over hydroquinone if I have dark skin?
Yes (i.e., typically Hispanic or Black skin tones). Ochronosis, a darkening of the skin that is caused by a build-up of phenylalanine or tyrosine, has been linked to hydroquinone use, but primarily in those with darker skin. In fact, according to the American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, the majority of patients with ochronosis are Black, but it has been reported to occur in Hispanics and Caucasians as well. Exogenous ochronosis is prevalent among South African Blacks, but is relatively uncommon amongst this population within the U.S. As such, those of African-American descent may wish to take extra precautions in avoiding products with resorcinol and excessive sun exposure when using hydroquinone products.
Can azelaic acid be used to treat acne?
Yes. According to a 1996 study in the journal Cutis (Cutaneous Medicine for the Medical Practitioner), 20 percent azelaic acid alone is effective in mild to moderate forms of acne, with an overall efficacy comparable to that of tretinoin (0.05 percent), benzoyl peroxide (5 percent), and topical erythromycin (2 percent). For moderate to severe acne, 20 percent azelaic acid may be favorably combined with minocycline with 90 percent good/excellent results, and may contribute towards reducing recurrences following discontinuation of systemic therapy (maintenance therapy with azelaic acid). Further, according to this 1989 study, 20% azelaic acid cream was not only equally as effective as 0.05% tretinoin cream, but was also better tolerated, causing fewer local side effects than the topical retinoid.
Can azelaic acid be used to treat rosacea?
Yes, and significantly so. According to a 1999 double-blind, randomized, multicenter study in Acta Dermato-Venereologica, treatment with 20% azelaic acid twice daily for 3 months resulted in significantly more favorable overall improvements than vehicle in both physician and patient ratings. In addition, more than 90% of patients rated the overall local tolerability of their treatment as good or acceptable. In addition, a separate study in the Archives of Dermatology found that 15% azelaic acid was significantly more effective than 0.75% metronidazole in improving the inflammatory lesions and erythema of rosacea.
A side note: Does hydroquinone (an azelaic acid bleaching alternative) really cause cancer?
Hydroquinone is currently the most commonly used bleaching agent in the United States. Although it is a metabolite of benzene and therefore exhibits potential carcinogenic properties, most studies that suggest a link between hydroquinone and cancer are those in which hydroquinone is applied in impractically high concentrations. In fact, according to Dr. Susan C. Taylor, M.D., a Philadelphia-based dermatologist in the October 2007 issue of Elle magazine,”The maximum levels of hydroquinone currently allowed (2 percent for over the counter, 4 percent for prescription) aren’t dangerous. At worst, it might cause redness or irritation, but only if your skin is sensitive or allergic to the medication.” Dr. Leslie Baumann further adds in Cosmetic Dermatology, “The most serious human health effect seen in workers exposed to hydroquinone is pigmentation of the eye and, in a small number of cases, permanent corneal damage.”
In what products is azelaic acid found?
20% azelaic acid is available by prescription only in Azelex. 15% azelaic acid is also available by prescription only in Finacea. Over-the-counter, the best product I could find, with 10% azelaic acid, is BENEV Azalex Gel ($80.00, Amazon.com). Although SD alcohol 40 is the main ingredient (never a good thing), it also contains more hydrating glycosaminoglycans, glycerin, and butylene glycol. I do wish the product didn’t contain the alcohol, though! A second excellent product is Mychelle Clear Skin Serum ($23.25, Amazon.com), which contains a seemingly high unspecified concentration of azelaic acid, and also niacinamide and retinol. Unfortunately, Mychelle Clear Skin Serum also contains low-molecular weight alcohols, which can be drying, and ylang-ylang/patchouli essential oils, which may make some individuals break out. At any rate, these are two sources of azelaic acid available over-the-counter.
Overall…
I love azelaic acid! Research shows 20% azelaic acid to have the bleaching efficacy of prescription-strength hydroquinone, without the negative side effects for darker skins. Research has also shown acne-fighting effects similar to prescription-strength tretinoin (and we all know how I love tretinoin!) Finally, the ingredient helps some signs of rosacea. I give this ingredient an enthusiastic thumbs-up, and will post as more companies release over-the-counter products with more azelaic acid.
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February 9th, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Acne Treatments, Best Products, Best Products, General Cosmetic Dermatology, Hyperpigmentation Treatments, Pore Size Treatments, Product Reviews, Rosacea Treatments, Spotlight On... |
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According to the February 2008 issue of Elle magzine, dermatologists have been noticing that patients have clearer skin in areas where Botox has been injected. In fact, according to dermatologist Dr. David E. Bank, M.D., “Skin is noticeably clearer in Botox-treated areas.”
Why would Botox make skin look clearer?
Relaxation of the facial muscles may relax oil production as well, as Dr. Anna D. Guanche, M.D., tells Elle, “A relaxed duct doesn’t continually pump out sebum, so glands aren’t stimulated to refill.” Anil Shah, M.D., a facial surgeon, hypothesizes that Botox blocks transmission of acetylcholine, a neurotransmitter that influences oil manufacture. According to the textbook Cosmetic Dermatology, botulinum toxin has three domains: the binding domain, the translocation domain, and the enzymatic domain. The binding domain that binds to the cell; once inside the endosome, the toxin’s translocation domain changes with the acidic environment, so that a chain of the toxin crosses the endosome membrane and enters the cytosol. There, the enzymatic domain of the toxin cleaves a protein in the SNARE complex that prevents the release of acetylcholine. And, less acetylcholine leaves, as Shah says, less oil manufacture. Further, as Shah elaborates, “With less sebum (oil), bacteria can’t thrive within the pore and cause inflammation.”
How much is it, and how long does it last?
According to BotoxFAQs.com, Botox injections cost between $350-$550 per injection. Results can occur in as little as 24 hours, according to Elle, and can last for approximately four months.
Are there any downfalls?
According to Dr. Fredric Brandt, M.D., who was reported in the November 2007 issue of Allure magazine to be the nation’s largest consumer of Botox, there is concern about using Botox all over the face, rather than in selected areas. Brandt tells Elle, “I’m still concerned that the toxin could penetrate deeper and trigger overall facial weakening.” In addition, Botox for acne may not be advisable for the mouth region and below, as Dr. Leslie Baumann, M.D. writes in Cosmetic Dermatology, “Botulinum toxin has also been used to treat the lower one-third of the face; however, this area has an increased incidence of side effects…and should only be treated by experienced botulinum toxin users.”
So is this a sound treatment?
From what has been researched so far, for now, if you experience acne in the top 2/3 of your face, you may wish to talk to your dermatologist about using botulism toxin as a possible form of treatment. However, keep in mind that treatment all over your face may weaken facial muscles, and also keep in mind that it is a risk to treat acne in the lower 1/3 of your face with Botox. See your doctor with any concerns.
What are some additional acne treatments?
For more on acne formation and over-the-counter drugstore treatments for acne, please visit this post.
For more on the PPx vacuum system for acne, please visit this post.
I have also reviewed the Obagi Clenziderm M.D. Acne Therapeutic System in this post.
Please let me know if there are more acne treatments you would like to see reviewed!
Next up: The Ten Best Hand Cream Treatments!
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January 26th, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Acne Treatments |
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With an estimated seventeen million Americans suffering from acne, it’s no wonder that there is a plethora of acne medications and treatments. One of the latest is the Obagi Clenziderm M.D. Acne Therapeutic System, which contains 5% benzoyl peroxide in the second step. It claims to “clear, soothe, and protect your skin” in one convenient system. But is the system worth $105.00 (SkincareRx.com), with each of the three steps sold for $64.95 separately?
Obagi Clenziderm M.D. Daily Care Cream Cleanser (Step 1)
Obagi Clenziderm M.D. Daily Care Cream Cleanser claims to “removes dirt, oil, makeup and all other impurities while moisturizing and soothing the skin,” and based on the ingredients, it does just that, as a simple cleanser with soothing lavender extract. Unfortunately, there are two foreseeable problems with the cleanser. One is that, for $31.95, there are much cheaper gentle cleansers (although most do not have the lavender, but still). One highly dermatologist-recommended cleanser is Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser, available for $10.75 from Amazon.com. The second problem with Obagi Clenziderm M.D. Daily Care Cream Cleanser is that it does not contain salicyclic acid like many other anti-acne cleansers, which can unclog the pores. One source with salicyclic acid is Aveeno Clear Complexion Cleansing Bar ($6.75, Amazon.com).
As such, if you are looking for gentle cleansers, there are cheaper cleansers available, and if you are looking for anti-acne cleansers, there are certainly much more effective ones out there.
Ingredients: Water, Propylene Glycol, Glycerin, Arginine Cocoate, Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate, Cetyl Alcohol, Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Ammonium Cocoyl Isethionate, Salix Alba (Willow) Bark Extract, Mentha Citrata (Bergamot) Leaf Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Extract, Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Peel Extract, Carbomer, Triethanolamine, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Butylparaben, Propylparaben, Isobutylparaben
Obagi Clenziderm M.D. Therapeutic Lotion (Step 2)
At $64.95 per bottle when sold separately, one would hope that Obagi Clenziderm M.D. Therapeutic Lotion provided much more acne fighting potential than drugstore varieties and cheaper products. Unfortunately, products like Neutrogena On the Spot Vanishing Formula contain just as much benzoyl peroxide for much less money, and MD Formulations Benzoyl Peroxide 10 contains twice as much benzoyl peroxide for (you guessed it) less money too. Furthermore, benzoyl peroxide may not always be the answer for acne. Although benzoyl peroxide is often applied topically to the skin to kill P. acnes, according to Dr. Leslie Baumann, as many as 60 percent of acne patients exhibit antibiotic-resistant strains of P.acnes, so antibacterial agents may not always be the answer.
In addition, you may not want to apply the benzoyl peroxide in Obagi Clenziderm M.D. Therapeutic Lotion all over your face. Benzoyl peroxide is more appropriate as a spot treatment, as benzoyl peroxide has been found by Nacht et. al. to kill bacteria by generating reactive oxygen species in the sebaceous follicle, and hence generates oxidative free radicals that contribute to prematurely aged skin.
Ingredients: Benzyl Benzoate, BHT, Dicaprylyl Ether, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Disodium EDTA, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate, Phenoxyethanol, Polysorbate 60, Propylene Glycol, Squalane, Water (Aqua).
Obagi Clenziderm M.D. Therapeutic Moisturizer (Step 3)
Also at $64.95 a tube, Obagi Clenziderm M.D. Therapeutic Moisturizer claims to “hydrates and protects the skin, without clogging your pores.” The product contains 20% glycerin and 1% dimethicone, which calls to mind the $8.00 Aveeno Daily Moisturizing Lotion (for six times as much product)! The product does not contain any anti-aging antioxidants, AHAs or retinoids, or even sunscreen. For $64.95, or even for a third of the $105 for the Obagi Clenziderm M.D. Therapeutic Set, I would not recommend this product.
Ingredients: Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Allantoin, Butylparaben, Cetyl Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Ethylparaben, Isobutylparaben, Lauryl PEG/PPG-18/18 Methicone, Methylparaben, Phenoxyethanol, Propylparaben, Triethanolamine, Water
Overall opinions?
There are certainly better over-the-counter treatments for acne; for some recommendations, please visit this post. This product line is an unfortunate example of cases where drugstore products can be found that are superior, despite their much lower price tag. In all, I would say, don’t spend your money on the Obagi Clenziderm M.D. Acne Therapeutic System. Product rating: 2/10 (only active ingredient is 5% benzoyl peroxide in step 2; no other acne treatments; no anti-aging ingredients; no sunscreen)
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January 18th, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Acne Treatments, Worst Products |
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From toothpaste on pimples to tea bags on puffy eyes, there aren’t many products people haven’t tried to remedy their skin troubles. According to “Home Brews” by Elizabeth Einstein, in November 2007 issue of Allure magazine (the source of this article), some of the following remedies do work. However, please don’t consider them a substitute for the scientifically proven prescription-grade or over-the-counter products dermatologists commonly recommend. After all, as Dr. Jeffrey Dover, an associate clinical professor of dermatology at Yale University School of Medicine, tells Allure, “Many home concoctions can help, but they’re not going to be perfect. Cosmetic scientists have spent years creating products that are designed to work better than anything you’d try at home.”
10 Home Remedies That Work Fairly Well
1. Aspirin for pimples (non-sensitive skin types only)
Aspirin has anti-inflammatory properties, so crushing a single aspirin with a few drops of water and applying it to a zit might help to heal it. According to Dr. Leslie Baumann, author of The Skin Type Solution, “It could penetrate the oil in the pore, helping exfoliate and employing anti-inflammatory properties.” However, Dr. Katie Rodan adds that this is not effective for those with sensitive skin, as “aspirin contains high levels of salicyclic acid, so it might be irritating.”
2. Visine for pimples
According to Dr. Katie Rodan, “It’s a temporary vasoconstrictor, so it shrinks blood vessels and makes the pimple look less inflamed. A great three-step approach to a zit is to apply an ice pack, which will enhance penetration; put a few drops of Visine on the spot; then apply an acne medication with benzoyl peroxide.” One spot treatment with 10% benzoyl peroxide (the maximum amount in over-the-counter medications) is Preferred Plus Benzoyl Peroxide Acne Treatment Gel USP 10% ($1.89, Amazon.com). Use it only on spots with pimples, as it is very strong.
3. Frozen peas, tea bags, or cucumbers for puffy eyes
Frozen peas reduce swelling because they conform to the area. Just let the bag thaw for 10-15 minutes and wrap in a cloth or paper towel before applying. Tea bags, with the exception of oil of bergament, may have caffeine to shrink blood vessels and tannic acid to tighten the skin temporarily. And cucumbers have anti-inflammatory and soothing properties. For more on how to get rid of puffy eyes, please visit this post.
4. Milk baths for irritated or sunburned skin
Milk contains fats and proteins that can soothe irritated or sunburned skin. However, be sure to moisturize afterward, as Baumann states, “It evaporates, and so it will dry the skin if you don’t moisturize afterward.” Some great moisturizers to try afterward include AmLactin 12% Moisturizing Cream (pictured above; $14.99, Amazon.com), with 12% hydrating lactic acid for exfoliation of the outer layer of skin, reversal of sun damage in the epidermis, and to stimulate collagen and elastin production in the dermis; and, secondly, Olay Quench Body Lotion for Normal to Dry Skin ($18.64 for two, Amazon.com), with niacinamide for reduction of fine lines and wrinkles, hyperpigmented spots, red blotchiness, and skin sallowness (yellowing), and increased elasticity.
5. Paper surgical tape to prevent wrinkles
According to Dr. Katie Rodan, “Some people make a lot of strong expressions in their sleep — crunching up their face and frowning. Using Frownies may prolong the efficacy of Botox.” However, paper surgical tape is mild enough to place between the eyebrows without irritating skin, and it can help keep forehead lines to a minimum. (Of course, from a practical standpoint, I realize this may look a little weird if you’re not sleeping alone.)
6. Egg whites for a little lift
For this reason, egg whites are included in products like Dermatologica Skin Smoothing Cream. According to Dr. Katie Rodan, “The albumen in egg whites contracts when it dries, so it can tighten skin temporarily.” Unfortunately, as soon as the egg is washed or wiped off, the effect is gone. Further, if you have an allergy to eggs, applying them to your skin could very well result in an allergic reaction. So, again, this works if you’re not allergic to eggs, but only if you want to walk around with egg stuck on your face. 
7. Vegetable shortening for dry hands
Putting Crisco on hands and feet, and then covering them with cotton gloves and socks overnight, will result in softer skin in the morning. Although, according to Baumann, “Really, any oil will make your skin softer.”
8. Beer for a rinse to yield shiny hair
According to the article in Allure, dousing with a thick, protein-rich beer like a Guinness stout can make hair shinier because the protein in beer fills the spaces between ridges or chipped cuticles in the hair shaft. According to Baumann, “This makes the hair smoother and more able to reflect light, giving the hair shine.” Just beware of the smell afterwards — rinse extremely well with water, and don’t try this one before a big event!
9. Apple-cider vinegar for clean hair
According to Dr. Baumann, “It’s acidic, so it removes product residue from the hair, but doesn’t damage the hair itself.” Further, hairstylist Jimmy Paul adds, “It’s particularly good before a deep-conditioning treatment — it provides a clean canvas so the treatment can penetrate better.”
10. Olive oil soaks for hydrated nails in the future
Although nails are dead, soaking nails in olive oil may hydrate a dehydrated nail plate, helping new nails grow in stronger.
8 Home Remedies that Do NOT Work At All
1. Toothpaste for pimples (bad idea)
According to Dr. Baumann, “Toothpaste used to contain zinc, which decreases inflammation, so it used to work on pimples. However, current toothpastes don’t have zinc.” Insofar as the argument that toothpaste dries up the skin, it turns out that current toothpastes contain fluoride that can irritate the skin. So this one is a definite no-go.
2. Lemon juice for bleaching freckles (does the opposite!)
According to Dr. Heidi Waldorf, director of laser and cosmetic dermatology and associate clinical professor at Mount Sinai School of Medicine, “It won’t work. Lemon juice can lighten your hair in the sun, but it can also cause irritation, hyperpigmentation, or dark blotches if you get it on your skin.”
3. Anti-wart drops for pimples (really bad idea, can leave scars)
Wart treatments typically contain 17 percent salicyclic acid, while zit treatments weigh in at 1 to 2 percent salicyclic acid. However, there is a reason for this. According to Dr. Katie Rodan, “Using wart medications on pimples can result in a really bad burn and even scarring.”
4. Glue for blackheads or clogged pores (really bad idea)
Dr. Heidi Waldorf says, “Don’t try it — you can rip off pieces of skin and end up with irritant dermatitis, an itchy redness similar to a bad reaction to a bikini wax, or even end up with an adhesive burn, which results in painful skin peeling.” Ouch.
5. Aloe for calming skin (surprising that it’s not always good!)
Although aloe has a reputation for being anti-inflammatory and soothing, there are individuals who are sensitive to aloe. Waldorf says, “In some individuals, it can cause irritant dermatitis. I’d reach for a 1 percent hydrocortisone treatment instead.” One is Aveeno 1% Hydrocortisone Anti-Itch Cream ($18.54 for four, Amazon.com).
6. Household cleaners for your face (very bad)
Do not use household cleaners on your face, even when diluted. Dermatologists report that patients receive chemical burns and scarring from attempts.
7. Oil or mayonnaise for your hair (again, I’m surprised this is bad, but it is)
According to New York City hairstylist Ted Gibson, “Olive oil can be good and nourishing on really coarse hair that is also dry, but it’s incredibly hard to rinse out.” Instead, try apple cider vinegar (which is acidic) to cleanse the hair followed by beer for shiny hair if you really want to use home remedies on your hair!
8. Gelatin for your nails (like applying collagen to your skin, pointless)
Waldorf says, “There is no reason to believe eating or drinking gelatin strengthens the nails. Yes, gelatin and your nails are both made of protein, but the way your body metabolizes gelatin does not do anything to nails.” Similarly, collagen is found in the skin, but, according to Dr. Leslie Baumann in Cosmetic Dermatology, topically applied collagen is too large to fit through the stratum corneum [uppermost layer of the skin], as collagens have a molecular weight of 15000 to 50000 daltons, whereas only molecules of molecular weight 5000 or less can penetrate the skin. So, again, just because something is an important component of your skin, hair, or nails doesn’t mean that ingesting or topically applying it is beneficial.
As A Result…
While some home remedies for your skin, hair, and nails are effective, others are ineffective or even damaging. Since even the most effective home remedies do not measure up to proven ingredients dermatologists commonly recommend, these are probably best reserved as a last-resort type of measure. If you ever have any doubts, consult your dermatologist.
Next up: 5 Days of Product Reviews!
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January 13th, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Acne Treatments, Quick Questions |
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