Skingenecell 1P, a Serpin B3 Inhibitor:  Exciting Stuff

According to the Journal of Allergy and Clinical Dermatology, the skin’s levels of serpin B3 are elevated in patients with dry and damaged skin.  When serpin B3 levels are reduced, the skin restores its moisture levels and prior smoothness.  What’s more is that serpin B3 levels are slightly elevated in cancerous cells and in psoriatic skin cells, encouraging further interest in a serpin B3 inhibitor.

Enter Shiseido’s patented synthetic amino acid, Skingenecell 1P, which has been proven in Shiseido’s in-house studies to significantly reduce the amount of serpin B3 in skin cells.  This, in direct correlation to the in vitro (i.e., petri dish-like) studies, should in fact directly help to restore dry and UV-damaged skin to levels of higher moisture and increased smoothness.

And I’m not the only one excited about serpin B3 inhibitor.  As Ava Shamban, assistant clinical professor of dermatology at UCLA, tells Judith Newman in this month’s Allure: “[Skingenecell 1P] is a very interesting approach…Most companies are adding proteins or lipids that our bodies produce already, to supplement our natural moisture content.  This is a new compound Shiseido has generated that fights a damaging substance in our body so that it addresses the decrease in moisture from the inside out.  It’s able to restore normal moisture levels.”

Things to Consider

One thing to keep in mind when considering the Future Solution LX Line is the current state of your skin.  If you have dry to very dry skin, visible UV damage, live in a warm climate, and are 40 or older (all parameters associated with increased serpin B3 levels), then the Future Solution LX Line is most likely to benefit you.  However, if you simply have dry skin and no visible UV damage, you may benefit similarly from a more basic moisturizer.

If you decide to purchase only one product from this line to start, make it the Shiseido Future Solution Total Regenerating Cream, as prior experience with Shiseido has taught me that this company tends to put the highest concentration of active ingredients in their night moisturizers.

The truth is that I’m thrilled with the technology behind the new Future Solution LX Line , and I’m proud to be able to present this type of exciting advancement to my readers!  Let me know your thoughts in Comments below!  :-)

11 Essential Oils, with 3 Well-Substantiated by Research

According to the December 2009 issue of Allure, creator Linda Rodin, a fashion stylist, first created the elixir in her Chelsea apartment in 2006.  Rodin Olio Lusso Luxury Face Oil contains 11 essential oils Rodin had learned about from around the world:  jasmine; sweet almond; apricot; jojoba; evening of primrose; rose hip seed; arnica; calendula; neroli; sunflower; and argan oils.  Of these ingredients, those with the greatest scientific backing to date for the skin are sweet almond, arnica, and argan oils.

• Sweet almond oil naturally has excellent hydrating properties.  In fact, sweet almond is the massage oil most commonly used by the professional masseuse, as it absorbs into the skin at a pleasant speed and hydrates without becoming too greasy.  
• Obtained from the flower heads of a mountain daisy, Arnica montana is renowned in the natural-healing world for its anti-bruising and skin-brightening properties.  Although a 1998 systematic review in Archives of Surgery established that arnica is not effacacious beyond a placebo effect for bruising, arnica continues to be popular in products like Dr. Hauschka Ouch Arnica Compresses, and acclaimed by many experts for its reported anti-inflammatory properties.  
• Dubbed ‘the gold of Morocco,’ argan oil contains essential fatty acids (linoleic and oleic acids) and antioxidant polyphenols.  Argan oil has three times the amount of antioxidant vitamin E found in olive oil, and tests by Aveda have demonstrated that use of argan oil decreases inflammation in the skin as well.  

As such, these ingredients in Rodin Olio Lusso Luxury Face Oil appear to be solid, research-wise.  However, there are additional considerations to keep in mind…

A Note about Using Essential Oils

One problem physicians often encounter when patients use “natural” remedies is that they tend to self-diagnose more than with traditional remedies.  However, natural skin care is often just as likely to cause allergic/irritant reactions as traditional skin care, and Rodin Olio Lusso Luxury Face Oil is no exception. 

For instance, because of the almonds used in the manufacturing process, sweet almond oil is not to be used on or by individuals with nut allergies.  Furthermore, arnica is not for long-term use, as stated in Dr. Leslie Baumann’s textbook, Cosmetic Dermatology: “Prolonged treatment of damaged skin [with arnica] often causes edematous dermatitis with the formation of pustules; long-term use can also give rise to eczema.”  However, it is unknown if the concentration of arnica in Rodin Olio Lusso Luxury Face Oil is high enough to have this effect with continued use.

User Testamonials

Rodin Olio Lusso Luxury Face Oil certainly has a following, as Dr. David Colbert, M.D., a NYC dermatologist tells Stephanie T. Jacob in Allure, “It sells faster than Linda can make it.  We are now back-ordered…I have one patient who started ordering bottles by the dozen because it calms her rosacea, and several celebrities buy up to six at a time.”  In the same article, makeup artist Brigitte Reiss-Andersen notes that she uses it “to take makeup off, to moisturize, as a massage oil.  I’ll even add a couple drops to my clients’ foundation if I want a dewy finish.  It’s amazing how fast it sinks in.”  In other words, 

The Bottom Line

The bottom line here is that Rodin Olio Lusso Luxury Face Oil has some very high-quality, well-documented ingredients, and should impart antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and hydrating properties to your skin.  However, just because the product is all-natural does not mean that it is irritant-free.  As with any product (especially one with 11 active ingredients), it is wise to speak to your dermatologist before using the product, just in case.

Image source (flickr):  P1000303 Originally uploaded by  chelliswilson

Palmitoyl oligopeptide: Not my favorite peptide

There are a number of peptides on the market right now (palmitoyl pentapeptide-3, Matrixyl3000^® and Argireline^®, to name a few) that have been shown in scientific studies to stimulate the production of extracellular matrix proteins, including collagen and fibronectin.  These peptides, in effect, make the skin firmer.

However, Kate Somerville Deep Tissue Repair with Peptide K8 contains palmitoyl oligopeptide.  What is great about palmitoyl oligopeptide is that it, like other prominent peptides, significantly stimulates collagen production in human fibroblasts, as shown in a 2007 study in Dermatologic Therapy. On the other hand, palmitoyl oligopeptide has been found to down-regulate elastin expression. From one point of view, this is not a bad thing –  elastin expression naturally increases with age, but the elastin cross-fibers grow in a less organized pattern than in individuals at a younger age, so down-regulating unorganized elastin expression may keep your elastin fibers from growing in an aged, disorganized pattern.   Yet, products that have been shown to stimulate elastin production (like one of my favorites, Relastin Eye Silk) also increase the firmness of the skin, so down-regulating elastin expression may not be a good thing, either.  With that said, if Kate Somerville Deep Tissue Repair with Peptide K8 contained, say, palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 instead of palmitoyl oligopeptide, I’d be an even bigger fan.

Dermaxyl: Proposed to Redirect Cellular Activity and Reduce Facial Contractions

One of the more exciting ingredients in this product is Dermaxyl, which is a combination of C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Tribehenin, Ceramide 2, PEG 10 Rapeseed Sterol, and the aforementioned Palmitoyl Oligopeptide.  In specific, Dermaxyl has been designed to be a dual-action compound that contains both a matrikine (a peptide that mediates cellular activity) and a compound called Calmosensine (which contains a cutaneous neuromediator to reduce facial contractions).   Dermaxyl has been proposed to help attract cells to sites that need repair and to contribute to reconstruction of the dermis, according to the text The Design and Development of Anti-Aging Formulations.

Unfortunately, while this sounds wonderful in theory, there is a limited amount of research conducted on the compound thus far outside of Sederma, the manufacturing company of Dermaxyl.  For instance, although Dermaxyl can attract cells to sites that need repair in the dermis, does it actually get to the dermis following application of a cream like Kate Somerville Deep Tissue Repair with Peptide K8?  (Most ingredients in skin care definitely do not get through to the dermis).  While Sederma’s studies look great – they can be viewed in PDF format here – I honestly would like Dermaxyl better if there was more non-company affiliated research further substantiating the claims.  At any rate, however, Dermaxyl is definitely something I will research more in the future.

Babassu Seed Oil

Babassu seed oil is bound to be doubly popular in upcoming years: not only is it a natural ingredient, but it also contains omega-3 and omega-6, which aid in inflammation and acts as an emollient to the skin.  When applied, Babassu seed oil also provides a pleasant, velvety feeling on the skin, which is more appealing than some other occlusive emollients, like glycerin or urea.  Bottom line:  Look for babassu seed oil in skin care a lot in the future.

Overall Opinions

Kate Somerville Deep Tissue Repair with Peptide K8 is a very hydrating moisturizer.  Although it is lightweight, it contains a lot of hydrating ingredients that may make this a better choice for dry or normal/combination skin than oily skin.  (As always, consult with your dermatologist before trying this or any other product).  It is not likely to aid in treating hyperpigmentation, acne, or rosacea.  However, it may aid a bit in the prevention/treatment of wrinkles and in maintaining/increasing skin’s firmness through somewhat increased collagen production.

Overall, I appreciate the hydration and anti-aging ambition of Kate Somerville Deep Tissue Repair with Peptide K8.  While I wish that it contained a different peptide and that its Dermaxyl compound had more independent research backing, I think that most customers will find this to be a luxurious “high-tech” indulgence, and I’m willing to bet Kate gets a lot of repeat customers on this one!

Ingredients in Kate Somerville Deep Tissue Repair with Peptide K8

Water, Stearic Acid, Ceteareth-20, Cetearyl Alcohol, Isopropyl Myristate, Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Glycerin, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone, Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil, Squalane, Cholesterol, Urea, Sodium PCA, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Silk Powder, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Cetyl Alcohol, Triethanolamine, Butylene Glycol, Chlorphenesin, Xanthan Gum, Polyquaternium-51, Trehalose, Tocopheryl Acetate, Fragrance, Allantoin, Limonene, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Ceramide 2, Citric Acid, PEG-10 Rapeseed Sterol, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Tribehenin, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Triacetin, Copper PCA, Hexyl Cinnamal, Benzoic Acid, Geraniol, Disodium EDTA.

Although I am a beauty blogger who tries lots of products, truth be told, I have really sensitive skin.  So when I heard about Topix Replenix Retinol Plus Smoothing Serum 3x ($64.00, Amazon.com), with all the benefits of retinol plus skin-soothing green tea polyphenols and hydrating hyaluronic acid, I was delighted.

Ingredients – Really Spectacular

The ingredients in Topix Replenix Retinol Plus Smoothing Serum 3x are top-notch:  retinoids are considered by many dermatologists to be the gold-standard of anti-aging, and while retinol is less potent than prescription tretinoin, it is still capable of producing profound results.

What makes this serum truly unique is its inclusion of a high concentration of green tea polyphenols, the active compounds of green tea (the most popular of which is epigallocatechin gallate).  The polyphenols in green tea have been found in a 2003 study in Molecular Epidemiology and Cancer Prevention to prevent UVB-induced oxidation of lipids and proteins in mice. In addition, according to Dr. Gary Goldfaden, M.D., “In a recent dermatological comparison study, the use of a lotion containing a tea extract produced a 70% improvement in rosacea compared to use of a lotion containing the base ingredients alone.” Verifying this is a 2003 study in the Journal of Nutritional Biochemistry, which reports that green tea reduces UVB-induced inflammation.

Rounding out the ingredients in Topix Replenix Retinol Plus Smoothing Serum 3x is hyaluronic acid, which has been found to bind up to 1000 times its volume in water.  The hyaluronic acid hydrates the skin to the extent that it can make it temporarily look more hydrated, fresher, and younger.

Personal Use and Opinions

I was not sent Topix Replenix Retinol Plus Smoothing Serum 3x – I went out and bought it, and I must say, I find it to be a wonderful retinol serum for my sensitive skin.  It leaves my skin feeling soft and smooth – not dried out!    Other ways I have been able to get the benefits of retinol with sensitive skin include Green Cream Level 3 (and later 6, when my skin tolerated it) under hydrating moisturizers, or to a lesser extent with the Kinerase line, which has efficacy somewhere between 0.02% and 0.04% tretinoin.

Overall, I’m a huge fan!  Great product!

Photo Source: HK web_advertising79 Originally uploaded by HK creative inc

Recently I was checking my Alexa blog stats, and was surprised to find that 40% of my readers are male.  (Who knew?)  Considering that my boyfriend and my father can only visit the site so many times, I figured I would bid adieu to the cosmetics for a day and make a guy-friendly post.

So what do men need to know about skin care?  Here are some of the basics:

1.  Shaving keeps your skin exfoliated.

Daily shaving sloughs off dried skin cells from the epidermis, the upper layer of the skin.  This has several beneficial effects, including enhanced rates of cell turnover, increased skin brightness, as well as a smoother surface for application of sunscreen and moisturizers.  For the best shave, MSNBC reports that the old-fashioned “wet shave” is actually the most effective, which is simply keeping your face wet with plenty of hot water before, and during, the entire shave.

2.  Testosterone may keep your skin firmer longer.

Although more women over 40 believe they look younger than their age, science tells us that DHEA, a testosterone precursor found in higher levels in men than women, may help build collagen and prevent the breakdown of collagen by matrix metalloproteinases.  Although the study, which was published in The Journal of Investigative Dermatology in 2005, applied the DHEA in culture (in vitro), it is suspected that naturally-circulating levels of DHEA in the skin may have the same effect.   Further studies have also shown that a combination of ostradiol and testosterone replacement therapy in post-menopausal women improves the type III collagen content of the skin.

3.  Extra testosterone contributes to baldness.

Being from Pittsburgh, my male friends often prized testosterone-fueled tailgating, hootin’, hollerin’, and good ol’ pro-Steelers anti-anyone else banter.  Unfortunately, the same testosterone that drives some of those activities also causes men to more commonly lose their hair than women.  Testosterone is converted to dihydrotestosterone (DHT) by an enzyme called 5-alpha reductase.   It is the DHT that has an adverse affect on the hair follicles, slowing hair production, resulting in weak, shorter hair, and sometimes ceased hair growth entirely.  For this reason, even though age-related depleted levels of testosterone are associated with detrimental effects, it is not wise to supplement with testosterone precursors without speaking to your physician.

4.  Men need skin care too.

Although it was considered “girly” just a few years ago, something happened that made men realize they need proper skin care too (More product availability?  Axe commercials?  Ryan Seacrest?).   The truth of the matter is, the skin needs proper care, hydration, and protection from the sun, regardless of gender.

Men’s skin care has come a long way, though I suspect it will become an even bigger market over the next few years.  Here are a few of my favorite skin care lines for men:

• Alfred and Hoff.  It’s luxurious, with a slew of excellent ingredients (antioxidants and sunscreen, plus sirtuin-activating complex).   The line consists of 7 products, including the can’t-miss moisturizer with SPF, serum, eye cream, and the company’s brand-new microdermabrasion product.  I really love the microdermabrasion product – it’s very effective, yet unique in the men’s market – but be careful not to use it immediately after shaving.  (If you shave in the morning, use the microdermabrasion scrub at night).  It’s my personal favorite, probably because my boyfriend uses it, but oh well.  0:-)
• Anthony: Logistics for Men.  I like this line because its products feature a lot of proven-effective ingredients.  Some can’t-miss products include the Glycolic Acid Cleanser, Vitamin C Serum, Facial Moisturizer with SPF 15, and Vitamin A Moisturizer (for night).
• ZIRH.  This fashionable skin care line (see photo at top of post) runs the gamut from the tried-and-true to the unusual (herbal eye cream?).  That said,there are some excellent products in this line, including the Alpha Hydroxy Face Wash and the Defend Moisturizer SPF 15.
• Kinerase.  Although this line is not marketed for men (Courtney Cox is a current spokeswoman), it is excellent for sensitive skin that are not able to tolerate alpha hydroxy acids (i.e., glycolic acid) or retinoids (i.e., vitamin A).   Although it is not often discussed, men can have sensitive skin and experience irritation from using too many harsh products.  As such, if you are a man who has had such experiences with skin care, perhaps  Kinerase is a good option for you.  (As always, speak to your dermatologist).

Benjamin Franklin once famously said, “A penny of prevention is worth an ounce of cure.”  And maybe that’s the case, but when you’ve found that you’ve stayed out too late and have the inevitable morning-after skin, well, that’s where Hard Night, Good Morning comes in.  A luxuriously priced skin care line (items are $52-$124 with the current 20% discount, and the complete set is a cool $556.50), Hard Night, Good Morning features an exotic array of antioxidants and soothing ingredients to help recover the skin, ranging from wild blueberries and grapes in the AM cleanser to Organic Açai Extract in the Detox Toner.

So is it worth the money?

To be honest, many higher-priced skin care lines are not worth the extra money.  Most large companies that are able to sell their products at drugstore-level prices also have large amounts of funding placed into research and development.  It also doesn’t cost that much money to include a lot of the scientifically proven effective ingredients into skin care, like retinol or sunscreen or antioxidants.

That having been said, many companies justify their higher prices with either patented delivery systems or exclusive ingredients.  The Hard Night, Good Morning line does the latter, justifying its prices with the inclusion of rare and exotic ingredients in its products, like Gatuline® RC, a patented lipid permeation enhancer for improving skin’s cosmetic appearance, and African Griffonia Extract, a plant extract designed to prevent hyperpigmentation (age spots).  Though neither ingredient has as much research backing as, say, niacinamide, both have been reported to improve skin’s appearance.  Furthermore, the line’s sense of luxury and selectivity does not apply just to ingredients, as it is sold exclusively online, at Stanley Korshak, the Stoneleigh Hotel, and Ritz Carlton Spas.

Best Product in the Line: The Hard Night Good Morning Facial Cocktail

One of my favorite products in the line is the Hard Night Good Morning Facial Cocktail ($124.00 on sale, HNGM.com).  The product features a high concentration of soothing aloe vera, which has been demonstrated to have some effect in promoting healing and in treating psoriasis, though it does not prevent against the intense dry skin caused by radiation therapy.  That having been said, a review in the British Journal of General Practice states that “clinical effectiveness” of aloe vera is not at this time “sufficiently defined.”  Still, the product also has a high concentration of green tea, which has been shown to have a multitude of positive effects, ranging from prevention of UV-oxidation induced stress and inflammation to anticarcinogenic effects.  Both aloe and green tea, then, seem as though they would soothe the skin after, as the company says, “a hard night.”

The exclusive ingredients in this product include Gatuline® In-Tense, Gatuline® Expression and Osilift®.  While Gatuline® is simply a patented lipid permeation enhancer, Osilift® is a purified fraction of natural polyoses (sugars) derived from oats that regulates the tension in the skin, helping it to appear somewhat smoother almost immediately after application.  The company claims that the combination of ingredients improves the appearance of wrinkles by 51% after one use, although this data is not available to the public.  Still, the product is certainly exclusive: Although developed by another company, I have yet to see Osilift® incorporated into another skin care line.

Overall Opinions

Typically, I will not buy products for their exclusive ingredients.  However, if I were to indulge in this line, I find the Hard Night Good Morning Facial Cocktail to be the greatest investment, with its high concentration of mainstream aloe and green tea, as well as the exclusive (but promising) Osilift®.

In addition, if I were to buy the Hard Night, Good Morning cleansers, I would make sure to rub the product into the skin for at least a minute, as Dr. David Bank advises in the December 2008 issue of Health magazine, in order to make sure that the skin absorbs at least some of the beneficial ingredients.

Overall, I find the Hard Night, Good Morning to be luxurious and exclusive, and if you’re looking for a quick fix after a “hard night,” the Hard Night Good Morning Facial Cocktail (and an aspirin to reduce inflammation) may grant your skin some relief.  Product Line Rating: 6.5/10. (High concentration of proven-effective ingredients: 2/3.  New technology or unique formulation: 2/3.  Value for the money: 1.5/3.  Sunscreen: 1/1).

Almost everyone worries about those dreaded dark spots in their lifetime – that is, sun spots, age spots, liver spots.  (haha )  All joking aside, hyperpigmentation and melasma often require serious treatments.  And since 1982, the gold standard in dermatologists’ offices has been hydroquinone, a potent tyrosinase inhibitor that may also work by inducing cytotoxicity in melanocytes.  However, even though hydroquinone has been found in numerous studies to be safe (as mentioned in a 2006 review in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology), the ingredient has still been banned in some countries, including France and South Africa, for concerns about increased cancer risk and ochronosis (darkening of the skin) with its use.

With that concern in mind, Stanford University researchers recently developed Lumixyl^TM, a complex of oligopeptides (0.1% w/w) that has been found to significantly inhibit tyrosinase, the rate-limiting enzyme in melanin production.  According to a 2009 study in The Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, Lumixyl^TM also improved melasma and overall facial aesthetics in five female participants – a significant finding in such a well-controlled study, though the sample size was small.  Still, as researchers report, Lumixyl^TM seems to hold great promise for treating hyperpigmentation and melasma.  As I learned in a recent opportunity to interview Lumixyl^TM scientists, the great promise of Lumixyl^TM is the product’s ability to “deliver efficacy similar to hydroquinone, without the potential toxicity”.

Clearly, more research needs to be done before Lumixyl^TM is granted the gold -standard status of hydroquinone for treating hyperpigmentation.  Still, the product appears to hold great promise, and it will be exciting to follow it as more research becomes available.  It is currently being sold exclusively through participating physicians’ offices for $120.00 for a 1 ounce pump.

• For more information on Lumixyl TM, including participating physicians’ offices, please visit the official Lumixyl^TM website.
• For more information on hydroquinone, please visit the previous FutureDerm post, “Spotlight On: Hydroquinone”.
• For more information on hyperpigmentation treatments, please visit the previous FutureDerm post, “Spotlight On: Kojic Acid and the Best Hyperpigmentation Treatments.”

A special thanks to Lumixyl researchers and Melissa Kelz, PR for providing me with the informative interview.

That’s what the latest research from two companies, Skinceuticals and L’Oreal, seems to suggest.  The two companies actually reportedly came together for the development of Skinceuticals Phloretin CF, featuring new ingredient phloretin, an antioxidant compound that is naturally found in the flesh and skin of apples.   Preliminary research demonstrates that it is basically a super antioxidant that not only fights free radicals, but also protects against DNA damage and penetrates well into the skin.  According to Dr. Brenton B. Koch, M.D. in his blog, “This powerhouse formulation divides and conquers when it comes to damage at every level. Phloretin CF protects against not only free radicals, but the range of other reactive molecules known to cause damage and DNA mutations among integral cell types.  In addition, it corrects existing damage by stimulating the synthesis of essential proteins and fibers and accelerating cell turnover.”  Additional research in The Journal of Biological Chemistry shows that phloretin is an inhibitor of sugar transport amongst red blood cells, which holds some level of promise as to the role phloretin may play in AGE (Advanced Glycation Product) formation and the subsequent hardening of the skin’s collagen.  Research cited on the popular site TruthInAging.com also adds that the combination of vitamin C, ferulic acid, and phloretin found in Skinceuticals Phloretin CF has been found to provide significant protection against erythema (skin reddening), the production of thymine dimers (the most common DNA damage caused by UV radiation), the production of p53 (a protein induced when the DNA is damaged by UV radiation), and decreased levels of MMP-9 (an enzyme that attacks collagen in the skin).

On the other hand, Lancome (owned by L’Oreal) is taking a new stand with its own new Absolue Precious Cells ($145.00 for 1.7 oz., Lancome.com) skin care line.  Using apple lysate extract to protect against UV damage, Absolue Precious Cells also adds in the company’s patented Pro-Xylane^TM (the company’s name for xylose, a sugar molecule derived from the beech wood plant).  Unlike other skin care ingredients, Pro-Xylane^TM has been reported by researchers at L’Oreal to stimulate the skin to produce more glycoaminoglycans (GAGs), water-binding polysaccharides found primarily in the dermis (deeper layer) of the skin.  GAGs are believed to be important in skin aging because not only do they bind up to 1000 times their volume in water (giving skin a youthful, plush, moisturized appearance), but GAGs also may decrease naturally with age.  (This is still being debated – some studies, such as that by Pearce et. al, have conversely found no change in the amount of GAGs with aging).  At any rate, stimulating aged skin to mimic younger skin with the production of GAGs is a novel and promising  advancement, as Dr. Debra Jaliman states in the October 2007 Allure magazine: “The research is amazing. It proves that these products produce long-term results by boosting the skin’s production of GAGs, which are crucial in fighting aging.”  The other products in the line include the Absolue Precious Cells Advanced Regenerating and Replenishing Night Cream, suggested to be $165, while the eye contour cream retails at €79 for 15ml.

As such, apples may have some promise when it comes to your skin.  Of course, since apple extracts do not yet have the research backing of, say, other potent antioxidants, retinoids or sunscreen, I may wait for a bit before incorporating these products into my skin care routine.  After all, research has demonstrated that eating a healthy natural ingredient may be more beneficial than topically applying it to the skin.  With that said, I’m off to Whole Foods to get me some apples!  Product Rating:  Skinceuticals Phloretin CF:  7.5/10 (High concentration of proven effective ingredients: 3/3.  Unique formulation or new technology: 3/3.  Value for the money: 1.5/3.  Sunscreen: 0/1).   Loreal Absolue Cells Day Moisturizer: 7/10 (High concentration of proven effective ingredients: 2.5/3.  Unique formulation or new technology: 3/3.  Value for the money: 1.5/3.  Sunscreen: 0/1).

Image source (Flickr):  APPLE & ICE Originally uploaded by D`ART

As the school year starts up again and the weather turns colder, I always find that I need to switch to a heavier moisturizer for my (normal, albeit somewhat sensitive) skin.  Enter Aqualant ($36.00, SkinCareRx.com), a triple-powered moisturizer with emollients (to soothe the skin), occlusive agents (to seal water in), and skin-benefitting antioxidants and retinol.  As a lipophilic moisturizer, Aqualant prevents TEWL (transepidermal water loss) from the skin, increases skin permeability, and has the potential to produce full hydration.

Aqualant has a higher concentration of silicone-based dimethicone than most moisturizers I’ve encountered – over 24%! – a concentration that is typically reserved for the treatment of diaper rashes and bedsores, according to the textbook Dermatological Formulations – Percutaneous Absorption.   However, unless you have particularly oily skin, this high concentration of dimethicone should still be beneficial, acting as a low-friction barrier to protect the skin against water-soluble irritants.  In fact, according to research published in The Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, dimethicone applied topically can be used for the prevention of irritant contact dermatitis.  And from a cosmetic perspective, dimethicone temporarily fills in fine lines and wrinkles, softening their appearance.

Shea butter and olive oil round out the ingredients list next.  Shea butter is an emollient, meaning that it soothes the skin.  Shea butter has been found to be most effective in liquidized form, as it has a higher rate of absorption, not to mention a lighter feel to the skin, though no form of shea butter offers protection against irritant contact dermatitis.  On the other hand, olive oil contains protective polyphenols, which have been shown to prevent UVB-induced tumor formation in the mouse when applied topically. Other proven effects of topical applications of olive oil include action as an antioxidant, hydrator, and the ability to promote resveratrol-induced preservation of sirtuins.  Finally, a combination of antioxidants grape seed and vitamin E, and a lower concentration of retinol, give this product a dose of free-radical-fighting and wrinkle-preventing treatment.

Personal Use and Opinions

At first, I was a little surprised by the consistency of Aqualant – it comes out like a light oil mixture from a spray bottle, and my skin even looked a little shiny after using it.  But when I woke up the next morning, I was pleased to find that my skin felt very soft and plump – fully hydrated!

Because of Aqualant contains occlusive agents, which trap moisture and water-based ingredients into the skin, I have decided to use Aqualant only after products that do not contain comedogenic ingredients, like cocoa butter, lanolic acid, myrstyl mystrate, or other products containing olive oil.  (For the record, Aqualant can contain occlusive agnets and olive oil and still be non-comedogenic, since olive oil is in low enough concentration).  I now cleanse, use a non-comedogenic retinoid, and apply Aqualant before bed at night.

While I very much like this product, consult with your dermatologist first if you have oily skin, as lipophilic moisturizers are often not recommended for patients with oily skin. Finally, although rare, it should also be noted that olive oil can induce contact dermatitis in some patients, so ask your dermatoloigst if you have concerns.

Overall, however, I am very pleased with Aqualant for my normal, sensitive skin, and I plan to keep it as my last nightly moisturizer throughout the winter months.  I also think that this product would be amazing for dry or normal-dry skin types, as it packs a triple hydration punch (occlusives, emollients, humectants).  Amazing!  Product Rating: 8.5/10. (High concentration of proven-effective ingredients: 3/3.  Unique formulation or new technology: 3/3.  Value for the money: 2.5/3.  Sunscreen: 0/1, although I prefer this product at night anyway).

Product Ingredients

Active Ingredient: Dimethiocne 24.92%.  Other Ingredients: Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Fruit, Olea Europaea (Olive) Oil, Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Oil, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil, Lauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, Retinol, Tocopherol Acetate, Citrus Aurantifolia (Lime) Fruit Extract, Iodopropynyl Butyl Carbamate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Methyl Paraben, Butyl Paraben, Propylene Glycol, Sodium Ascorbate, Tocopherol.