Ah, just when I think I’ve heard it all, I run across MaMa Lotion ($44.50, Cosmeticville.com). A dermatological-grade potent combination of 20% unique alpha hydroxy acids (10% mandelic acid, 10% malic acid), MaMa Lotion has what it takes to become a new regular in my skin care line-up, reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, freckles, acne blemishes, acne scarring, hyperpigmentation, enlarged pores, melasma, ingrown hairs, and rough skin.
One of the main ingredients in MaMa Lotion, mandelic acid, is an alpha hydroxy acid derived from almonds. According to research published in the journal Tetrahedron, mandelic acid is a potent antioxidant, preventing skin lipid peroxidation when applied topically. A review in Clinics in Dermatology further affirms that mandelic acid is an AHA tat is able to treat signs of photoaging (including skin roughness and fine lines). Interestingly enough, mandelic acid is also used at 0.5% in antimicrobial solutions as an activating solution for 0.1% sodium chlorite.
Malic acid (hydroxybutanedioic acid) is an alpha hydroxy acid that is found naturally in apples. In the Journal of Dermatology, a published study found that a combination of malic acid and glycolic acid increased cell proliferation and functional activation of fibroblasts, indicating that the ingredient is effective in stimulating collagen production. Although it has been reported in the International Journal of Skin Science that malic acid is somewhat less effective than the alpha hydroxy acids glycolic acid and lactic acid, in combination with other AHAs (like the mandelic acid in MaMa Lotion), malic acid has been reported to have great efficacy in treating skin roughness, fine lines, and hyperpigmentation. Unlike the other AHAs, malic acid has also been demonstrated to have some level of anti-microbial activity, as reported in The American Journal of Enology and Viticulture.
Skin following 1 month treatment with MaMa Lotion.
MaMa Lotion is a very strong and effective product, with 20% AHAs and a pH of 2.5. For this reason, special instructions are necessary for those using MaMa Lotion; namely, MaMa Lotion should not be used more than twice a week for the first few weeks, and usage can then be increased to every other day or everyday, depending on the skin’s tolerance of the product. A gentle, broad-spectrum sunscreen, like LaRoche Posay, should be used everyday in conjunction with the product, and other products with AHAs, retinol, and the sun should be avoided. Those with darker skin should additionally consult this page for further instructions.
Although MaMa Lotion goes on very thick, it absorbs into the skin within 10-15 minutes, leaving the skin extremely smooth. The treatment can also be used on rough areas like the knees, elbows, and feet (with appropriate sun protection on these areas, of course!) With that said, I love MaMa Lotion. Although the very potent product does need to be used with caution, when used properly and in conjunction with proper sun protection, it really gives skin a fantastic glow! Product rating: 9.5/10. (High concentration of effective ingredients: 3+/3. New technology or unique formulation: 3/3. Value for the money: 3/3. Sunscreen: 0.5/1; there is no sunscreen in this product, but it should only be used at night anyway, so it is only a 0.5 deduction).
If you would like to try MaMa Lotion, Cosmeticville.com is currently giving away a free sample of MaMa lotion with any purchase! In the comments box at checkout, put - MaMa Lotion Sample. For more information, please visit Cosmeticville.com.
Water, Mandelic Acid, Malic Acid, Algae Extract, Polyacrylamide, Potassium Hydroxide, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Ubiquinone, Dimethicone, Cyclomethicone, Fragrance, Squalane, Laureth-7, Tetrasodium EDTA, Isopropylparaben, Isobutylparaben and Butylparaben.
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June 2nd, 2008
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futurederm |
Acne Treatments, Anti-Aging Treatments, Best Products, Best Products, Best Skincare Gifts, Firming Treatments, Hyperpigmentation Treatments, Offers and Promotions, Pore Size Treatments, Product Reviews, Special Offers, Wrinkle Treatments |
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Spin Lash is a new product that actually rotates 360o to give you a fuller, more separated lash line. While the product comes with its own hypoallergenic, contact lens-safe mascara, the rotating brush is suitable for use with any mascara, which is certainly a welcome feature.
The good parts about Spin Lash is that it works - lashes really do look fuller and more separated after using the rotating system. The brush head is also made of synthetic materials, so it feels rubbery, like a silicone brush. I like it - it reminds me of Cover Girl Lash Blast. In addition, the mascara itself builds nicely and comes off easily with soap and water.
The not-so-good parts are that the Spin Lash technique takes a little while to master (I’m not used to putting anything mechanically rotating near my eye, so it took a bit of practice!), and the brush is not good for getting those hard-to-reach corner lashes.
However, overall, if you have some patience, Spin Lash is a sensational product. I think it especially makes a really great gift for the makeup junkie in your life! 
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May 30th, 2008
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futurederm |
Best Skincare Gifts, Cosmetics, Product Reviews |
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So, recently, I started trying a lot of skin care creams (hey, a blogger’s gotta do what a blogger’s gotta do. 
) And, what do you know, I ended up with a pretty bad case of contact dermatitis, resulting in a horrible itchy rash that not even two weeks’ worth of prescription hydrocortisone could cure.
But then someone turned me on to Intelligent Aesthetics Gentle Cleansing Gel ($30.00), Comforting Skin Primer ($20.00) and AM/PM Healing Complex ($28.00). Immediately after using the products, my red, inflamed skin felt smoother and cooler. (And no, as usual, I am not being paid to say this.) The next day, my skin looked to be healing, and it felt comfortable for the first time in weeks. I’m not completely cured yet, but let me tell you, I am well on my way and I love this stuff.
Science backs it up, too. Two of the ingredients in the Intelligent Aesthetics Gentle Cleansing System are willow extract and chamomile, which have been shown in numerous studies to have healing and anti-inflammatory properties. Another great ingredient is oat extract. A 2002 study in Skin Pharmacology and Physiology found that topical application of practical concentrations of Avena Sativa (Oat) Extract reduced skin irritation in the majority of the individuals studied. Avena Sativa (Oat) extract has also been documented to be effective as a soothing and anti-inflammatory agent in the journal Phytotherapy. Other great ingredients in the line include hydrating vitamin E, anti-aging retinyl palmitate, and antioxidant vitamin C.
But my favorite ingredient in Intelligent Aesthetics Gentle Cleansing System is actually the blend of peppermint and spearmint extracts. Although the menthol that distinguishes peppermint from spearmint is sometimes touted as an irritant, both peppermint and spearmint have long been established as anti-inflammatory agents, according to the text Herbal Medicine and Botanical Medical Fields. The blend of mint extracts left my skin feeling cool, clean, and refreshed…completely unlike the itchy discomfort of contact dermatitis.
I highly recommend this line to anyone without a menthol allergy who is suffering from irritated skin! I love it!! 9.5/10 (no sunscreen)
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May 20th, 2008
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futurederm |
Best Products, Best Products, Best Skincare Gifts, Dry Skin Treatments, Uncategorized, eczema treatments |
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For all mothers do every day of the year, there’s nothing better than giving Mom some luxury and comfort for Mother’s Day. And, in my personal opinion, nothing says luxury and comfort like thoughtful skin care. Here are some really special finds online that fit the bill perfectly:
1. Create a free website for Mom on Your Mom’s Philosophy.com. On Your Mom’s Philosophy.com, you can create a site about your mom and share your favorite stories, pictures, and videos - all for free. Other visitors will rate your page, and if yours is one of the top 20 ranked sites, your page will be featured on Philosophy.com on Mother’s Day as a finalist. From the 20 finalists, online voters will select one to receive the grand prize, a philosophy gift basket valued at $250. As an added bonus, everyone who creates a page will have a chance to win a $1200 shopping spree on Philosophy.com. I truly love this idea!
And, of course, philosophy has excellent Mother’s Day gift sets too. One of my favorites is the philosophy Amazing Grace Deluxe Gift Set ($85.00, Drugstore.com). For $85, the set includes an 8 oz. 3-in-1 shower gel, an 8 oz conditioner, an 8 oz body emulsion, a 4 oz hand cream, and a 2 oz fragrance. Best of all, the set features the peace-inducing Amazing Grace motto: How you climb the mountain is just as important as how you get down the mountain, and so, as it is with life, for which so many of us becomes one big gigantic test followed by one big gigantic lesson. In the end, it all comes down to one word: grace. it’s how you accept winning and losing, good luck and bad luck, the darkness and the light. So true - and so “Mom”.
2. Protect Mom’s skin with Celazome Serum Vitae for day ($54.00, SkinStore.com). Although my favorite skin serum is still Skinceuticals CE Ferulic, Celazome Serum Vitae is making a strong case for itself, with a high concentration of magnesium ascorbyl palmitate (a more stable form of vitamin C than in CE Ferulic) and vitamin E, plus anti-aging retinol, soothing aloe and lavender, and hydrating dimethicone and hyaluronic acid. Dr. Leslie Baumann even recommends it on her blog as a “top 5 spring skin care product.” To save money, sign up at eBates.com for free before you buy, and receive 8% cash back on your purchase, plus $10 bonus if you sign up before May 31, 2008!
I say this product is great for day because it contains vitamins C and E. which have been shown to enhance the effects of sunscreen. However, retinol can make the skin photosensitive, so if you use this product during the day, be sure to use it under a compatible moisturizer with sunscreen.
3. …and Lindi Face Serum for night ($40.00, LindiSkin.net). Available in lavender and citrus scents, Lindi Skin Face Serum contains a very high concentration of astaxanthin extract, a potent antioxidant. It also contains a high concentration of soybean oil, antioxidant vitamin E in two forms, hydrating ceramide 2, collagen-stimulating palmitoyl oligopeptide and ascorbyl palmitate, and soothing aloe. Despite the plethora of ingredients, Lindi Skin products are reportedly very gentle for the skin, as they are developed by a team of scientists for cancer patients undergoing radiation therapy and chemotherapy, who often experience nausea from skin care products due to scent, irritation, and even inflammation or stinging.
4. Give Mom sophisticated luxury with John Varvatos eau de parfum ($67.28, Amazon.com). I recently tried this perfume, and someone gave me the perfect term to describe it: “Mature.” A rich ambery floral with “fruity nuances”, it is definitely a scent for a sophisticated woman. According to the scent’s website, it product exudes “warmth, delicacy, elegance and sensuality.” New for the Spring, it’s one for the sophisticate for sure.
Here’s to great skin for Mom for Mother’s Day! Be sure to share some of your favorite Mother’s Day gift ideas too!
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May 2nd, 2008
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futurederm |
Anti-Aging Treatments, Antioxidant Treatments, Best Products, Best Products, Best Skincare Gifts, Cosmetic Dermatology News, Dry Skin Treatments, Firming Treatments, Hyperpigmentation Treatments, Product Reviews, Quick Questions, Special Offers, Spotlight On..., Wrinkle Treatments |
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Since antioxidant serums have been scientifically proven to boost the power of sunscreen, it’s a good idea to apply one everyday before your sunscreen. But, if you’re the eco-conscious and all-natural modern woman, what are you to do? Enter Juice Beauty Antioxidant Serum ($45.00, Sephora.com). With a high concentration of grape juice, soothing aloe, network antioxidants ubiquinone, vitamin C, and vitamin E, firming DMAE, cell turnover-inspiring retinyl palmitate, and hydrating sodium hyaluronate — plus the assurance of certified organic ingredients — what’s not to love?! For more on the ingredients, read on.
White Grape and Orange Juices
Not only do they taste delicious, but the two main ingredients in this serum are great for your skin, too. Orange juice is great, while white grape juice is a fair antioxidant, at least according to the American Chemical Society. In a 1996 study, the antioxidant activities of twelve common fruits were measured via ORAC (Oxygen Radical Absorbance Capacity) Score, the current accepted standard for measuring antioxidant activity. In the ranking, orange juice placed third, while white grape juice placed seventh; the following was the order:
- strawberry
- plum
- orange
- red grape
- kiwi fruit
- pink grapefruit
- white grape
- banana
- apple
- tomato
- pear
- honeydew melon
Still, I personally am impressed by the high concentration of the two antioxidant juices in Juice Beauty Antioxidant Serum. Nice!
Vitamin C as Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate
According to the International Journal of Pharmaceutics, vitamin C in its common form, L-ascorbic acid, has been demonstrated to have many favorable aspects for the skin, including:
Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate is a simply a water-soluble form of L-ascorbic acid. According to a 1997 study in the Journal of Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Analysis, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate has greater stability than L-ascorbic acid in solution. Unfortunately, the only drawback to magnesium ascorbyl phosphate that I can foresee is that the concentration of magnesium ascorbyl phosphate is often not revealed in products, while the concentration of L-ascorbic acid is reported as 10% in Cellex C and 15% in Skinceuticals CE Ferulic. However, it has been suggested in Skin Pharmacology that a given concentration of magnesium ascorbyl phosphate exhibits the same effects on skin fibroblasts as the same concentration of L-ascorbic acid. This is exciting, as the same study also found that twice the concentration of sodium ascorbyl phosphate was needed to exhibit the same effects as a given concentration of L-ascorbic acid.
At any rate, if I were to take an educated guess, I would not estimate the concentration of vitamin C in Juice Beauty Antioxidant Serum to be greater than 5%. This is, however, only a guess.
My favorite combination: Vitamin C and Vitamin E
Oh, if you’re a fan of this blog, you’ve heard it all before: Vitamin C and E together are like macaroni and cheese for me, but a whole lot better for my skin. First and foremost, according to Dr. Leslie Baumann’s Cosmetic Dermatology textbook, vitamin C and vitamin E are network antioxidants that have been found to synergistically enhance the power of one another. (When one antioxidant is depleted, it can essentially “borrow” an electron from the other antioxidant to renew itself, and vice versa).
Vitamins C and E as L-ascorbic acid and tocopheryl acetate have also been reported by Djerassi et. al. to prevent the formation of carcinogenic nitrosamines (cancerous nitrosamines).
Vitamin C and vitamin E have also been shown in this 1996 study, amongst others, to enhance the photoprotective effects of sunscreen, as vitamin C has been reported to enhance UVA protection, whereas vitamin E is more effective against UVB radiation.
Lastly, vitamin C has also been found to decrease hyperpigmentation, although a study in the International Journal of Dermatology found that 4% hydroquinone was more effective in treating melasma than vitamin C as L-ascorbic acid. However, a separate study, also in the International Journal of Dermatology, found that combination therapy of 4% hydroquinone (not in Juice Beauty Antioxidant Serum), vitamin C, vitamin E, and 10% glycolic acid was effective in treating signs of hyperpigmentation.
…plus another network antioxidant, Ubiquinone
Ubiquinone levels have been documented to decrease upon skin UV irradiation in the journal Free Radical Biology and Medicine, so it is a beneficial to supplement the levels with this antioxidant serum. Ubiquinone, like vitamins C and E, is also another network antioxidant, meaning that it can “borrow” an electron from another antioxidant when its own electron is depleted by a reactive species, and can also “donate” an electron to another antioxidant in its time of stress. Very nice indeed!
Retinyl palmitate
According to a 1997 study in the Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 0.6% retinyl palmitate is less effective in penetrating human skin than 0.025% retinol (these concentrations are similar to those found in many over-the-counter skincare formulations). However, even though retinyl palmitate is less potent than retinol, it has been shown to exhibit the collagen-stimulating, smoothing, and wrinkle-reducing properties of retinol over time, and has also been shown to be less irritating, which is probably the reason for its common use in skin care products.
I think I have only two concerns about the retinyl palmitate in Juice Beauty Antioxidant Serum. One is pH level. With all of the acidic ingredients in the serum, its pH is likely to be somewhere between 4-5. However, the optimal pH of retinyl palmitate in formulations is between 5.5 and 6.0, as this is the ultimate range for esterification, according to the Journal of Investigative Dermatology. My second concern is more minor: given the fact that retinyl palmitate makes the skin more photosensitive, dermatologists most often recommend its use at night. But, I would say that, since you are most likely using an antioxidant serum to boost the power of sunscreen anyway, the bit of retinyl palmitate in this product plus sunscreen should still leave you on your way to anti-aging success.
What about the “certified organic” label?
Again, “certified organic” has never been shown in clinical studies to be more effective. Still, the “certified organic” label means that the product is of the highest standard; that is, 95-100% of ingredients must meet USDA organic standards for food. More information about USDA Certified Organic labeling and products is available here.
Buy this! Don’t buy the Juice Beauty Green Apple Antioxidant Serum!
According to Sephora.com, the ingredients lists of Juice Beauty Antioxidant Serum and Juice Beauty Green Apple Antioxidant Serum are (gasp!) identical. I copied and pasted them both below to demonstrate. Even if this is some sort of error, you get twice the amount of Juice Beauty Antioxidant Serum for the same price as Juice Beauty Green Apple Antioxidant Serum. Furthermore, in the aforementioned study, apple did not have a particularly high ORAC score compared to eleven other common fruits, indicating that Juice Beauty Green Apple Antioxidant Serum is probably not worth twice as much. The choice, of course, is ultimately yours.
Bottom line: I loooooove it
Juice Beauty Antioxidant Serum ($45.00, Sephora.com) is a new favorite. I love the high concentrations of antioxidants, hydrating and soothing ingredients, and the fact that it’s Certified Organic for the eco-savvy woman (or man, come to think of it!) A great find and a wonderful product! Product rating: 9.5/10 (High concentration of proven ingredients: 3/3. New technology or formulation: 3/3. Value for the money: 3/3. Sunscreen: 0.5/1, not sunscreen, but its ingredients are proven to boost the power of sunscreen when used in conjunction with it.)
Ingredients in Juice Beauty Antioxidant Serum
Organic Juices Of Vitis Vinifera (White Grape) Juice, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Juice & Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Glycerin, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil, Organic Essential Fatty Acids Of Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose), Linum Usitatissimum (Linseed) Seed & Borago Officinali (Borage) Seed, Organic Algae Extract, Ubiquinone (Coenzyme Q10), Thioctic Acid (Alpha-Lipoic Acid), Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (Vitamin C), Dipeptide-2, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-3, Tocopheryl Acetate & Tocopherol (Vitamin E), Retinyl Palmitate (Vitamin A), Sclerotium Gum, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Hydroxide, Benzyl Alcohol, Disodium Edta, Phospholipids, Hyaluronic Acid, Dimethylaminoethanol(DMAE), Potassium Sorbate, Amyris Balsamifera & Litsea Cubeba (May Chang) Pure Essential Oils.
Ingredients in Juice Beauty Green Apple Antioxidant Serum
Organic Juice Solution Of Vitis Vinifera (White Grape) Juice, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Juice & Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Glycerin, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil, Organic Essential Fatty Acids Of Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose), Linum Usitatissimum (Linseed) Seed & Borago Officinali (Borage) Seed, Organic Algae Extract, Ubiquinone (Coenzyme Q10), Thioctic Acid (Alpha-Lipoic Acid), Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (Vitamin C), Dipeptide-2, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-3, Tocopheryl Acetate & Tocopherol (Vitamin E), Retinyl Palmitate (Vitamin A), Sclerotium Gum, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Hydroxide, Benzyl Alcohol, Disodium Edta, Phospholipids, Hyaluronic Acid, Dimethylaminoethanol(DMAE, Potassium Sorbate, Amyris Balsamifera & Litsea Cubeba (May Chang) Pure Essential Oils.
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April 3rd, 2008
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futurederm |
Anti-Aging Treatments, Antioxidant Treatments, Best Products, Best Products, Best Skincare Gifts, Natural Products, Product Reviews |
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MD Skincare: Dr. Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Daily Face Peel ($75.00 for a thirty-day supply, Sephora.com) claims to “improve skin firmness, tone, and texture, Alpha Beta diminishes the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, boosts skin density and vitality, and reduce pore size and breakouts.” To find out why this product is so effective, and my personal evaluation after use, read on.
A high concentration of salicyclic acid in Step 1
Salicylic acid is an oil-soluble chemical exfoliant that can remove debris from the pore, creating the appearance of skin smoothness. However, according to Dr. Diana Draelos, an associate professor of dermatology at Wake Forest School of Medicine, it cannot measurably reduce pore size, only cleanse the area. Still, according to Mount Kisco, New York dermatologist David E. Bank, M.D.: “The goal is to keep pores clean and at their smallest,” so salicyclic acid is excellent to use to clean the pores. However, salicyclic acid does not actually change pore size; rather, it cleans the pores, which enables them to then be closed after cell turnover is increased, etc.
Glycolic acid in Step 1
Although the concentration of glycolic acid is not provided on the MD Skincare: Dr. Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Daily Face Peel, glycolic acid is typically available in at-home treatments in 8 to 15 percent concentrations. (In dermatologist’s offices, glycolic acid peels are available in concentrations up to 70 percent.) Still, glycolic acid in at-home treatments has still been found to advance desquamation and thinning of the stratum corneum (the uppermost layer of the skin). By exfoliating the top layer of the skin, glycolic acid peels smooth the skin, quicken the rate of cell turnover (which is reduced by up to 7% every ten years), decrease small wrinkles and increase the fibroblast proliferation of collagen.
At these low concentrations, Dr. Leslie Baumann, Director of Cosmetic Dermatology at the University of Miami School of Medicine, notes that the patient should not expect reversal of moderate to severe wrinkling or scarring with at-home treatments. In fact, according to a randomized, placebo-controlled double-blind study, it was found that 0.05% all-trans-retinoic acid (a retinoid) was more effective than 2% lipoic acid or 10% glycolic acid (a concentration found in at-home treatments) in treating signs of aging.
Green tea in steps 1 and 2
Green tea has been found to be effective as a potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory ingredient in skin care formulations. In addition, green tea has promise as a treatment against rosacea. According to Dr. Gary Goldfaden, M.D., “In a recent dermatological comparison study, the use of a lotion containing a tea extract produced a 70% improvement in rosacea compared to use of a lotion containing the base ingredients alone. This tea extract is rich in antioxidant polyphenols and contains a variety of potent flavonoids.” Verifying this is a 2003 study in the Journal of Nutritional Biochemistry, which reports that green tea reduces UVB-induced inflammation as measured by double-fold skin swelling. This is also a great ingredient in MD Skincare: Dr. Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Daily Face Peel because it will help reduce some of the inflammation caused by a potent salicyclic acid/glycolic acid peel combination.
Vitamin C and Vitamin E in Step 2
Vitamin C is most commonly used as L-ascorbic acid in skin care formulations. However, MD Skincare: Dr. Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Daily Face Peel contains vitamin C as ascorbyl palmitate, a more stable form of vitamin C that is slightly less researched and used than L-ascorbic acid in skin care formulations. According to a 1987 article in the journal Cancer Research, ascorbyl palmitate was more effective in preventing tumor formation in the mouse than other forms of vitamin C, including L-ascorbic acid. Ascorbyl palmitate has also been established as being an effective antioxidiant in microemulsions, according to this study in the European Journal of Pharmaceutics and Biopharmaceutics, amongst others.
The combination of vitamin C and vitamin E have been found to synergistically enhance the power of one another, and have been reported by Djerassi et. al. to prevent the formation of carcinogenic nitrosamines (although in different forms of C and E). Vitamin C and vitamin E have also been shown in this 1996 study, amongst others, to enhance the photoprotective effects of sunscreen, which is most likely why the product is recommended for morning use.
Soy isoflavones and retinol in Step 2
MD Skincare: Dr. Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Daily Face Peel contains soy isoflavones, which are effective anti-aging ingredients. One isoflavone contained in soy is genistein, which has been shown in independent research studies to exhibit both anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, and to stimulate the production of collagen and hyaluronic acid in human fibroblasts cultured in vitro, which together increase the firmness, elasticity, and suppleness of skin. These findings have been affirmed in this 2005 study in the journal of Photochemistry and Photobiology, which further reported that use of soy extract twice daily for two weeks reduced the number of hair follicles (dermal papillae) on the skin. Finally, it has been reported in this 2000 study in the journal Dermatology that human trials demonstrate lightening of hyperpigmentation after use of soybean extract for two weeks.
Retinol has been demonstrated to increase cell turnover, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, smooth the skin, and reduce acne in some patients. However, retinol use is also associated with skin irritation in some patients with sensitive skin, and use of retinol makes your skin more susceptible to sun damage. Because the sun is a major cause of signs of aging, be sure to use this product with daily application of a broad-spectrum UVA/UVB sunscreen.
Soothing and hydrating ingredients in Steps 1 and 2
Step 1 contains a high concentration of soothing chamomile extract, along with anti-inflammatory green tea extract and hydrating lactic acid. Step 2 contains a high concentration of hydrating dimethicone and anti-inflammatory green tea extract, and a low concentration of soothing chamomile. Because glycolic acid peels can be harsh to the skin, the plethora of soothing and anti-inflammatory ingredients make this peel a great one.
Personal Use
After trying MD Skincare: Dr. Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Daily Face Peel, I noticed that my skin immediately felt smoother and slightly firmer. I also noticed that my first application made my skin flake off somewhat, so I wouldn’t recommend using the product for the first time right before a big event (the flakiness makes it harder to apply make-up). Hours later, my skin had a slight sheen to it, and it feels smoother.
The product is fragrance-free, which is always a bonus. Although it is recommended for day use, I can’t bring myself to use a peel at night (I am too paranoid about sun damage for that).
A 60-day supply is also available at Sephora for $125.00, so it’s like buy one, get one 33% off if you go this route. Quite expensive, so if you are already using anti-aging antioxidants and are just looking for an effective peel, the Peter Thomas Roth UnWrinkle Peel Pads ($45.00, Amazon.com) might be a better fit for you. While Peter Thomas Roth UnWrinkle Peel Pads do not contain soy isoflavones and have less green tea, they contain seemingly more glycolic acid. Check out the review here.
As a result…
A great product! I love it, although if $75.00 for 30 days is too much for you to spend on a peel, you may want to consider Peter Thomas Roth UnWrinkle Peel Pads for $45.00 for 60 days, without soy isoflavones and less green tea, but seemingly more glycolic acid. One caveat: Watch out if you have sensitive skin, and talk to your dermatologist if you have concerns before you try this or any other product with AHAs and/or retinol.
Step 1 Ingredients:
Salicylic Acid, Chamomilla Recutita Matricaria Extract, Citric Acid, Copper PCA, Disodium EDTA, Fragrance, Glycolic Acid, Camellia Sinensis Extract, Lactic Acid, Malic Acid, Polysorbate-20, Water, Alcohol Denat., Sodium Benzoate, Soy Isoflavones, Genestein, Hamamelis Virginiana, Achillea Millefolium Extract, Zinc PCA.
Step 2 Ingredients:
Water, Dimethicone, Camellia Sinensis Extract, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Cholecalciferol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Phospholipids, Soy Isoflavones, Genestein, Retinol, Copper PCA, Zinc PCA, Chamomilla Recutita Matricaria Extract, Achillea Millefolium Extract, Methylparaben, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium Hydroxide, Diazolidinyl Urea, Tetrasodium EDTA.
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February 25th, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Antioxidant Treatments, Best Products, Best Products, Best Skincare Gifts, Firming Treatments, Product Reviews |
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According to Sephora, the Clarisonic Skin Care Brush ($195.00, Sephora.com) is one of the company’s best-sellers. Designed with a sonic frequency that moves more than 300 times per second, the brush claims to “remove six times more make-up” and “clear your pores, loosening dirt, make-up, and oil” when used twice per day. Yet how effective does the scientific literature say the Clarisonic Skin Care Brush is at achieving these aims? Let’s take a look…
How was the brush developed?
According to an eMedicine.com review by dermatologist Dr. Zoe Draelos, the brush was developed by Clarisonic/Pacific Biosciences Laboratories, the same team of engineers and researchers that developed the Phillips Sonicare Toothbrush. The device runs on a rechargeable battery attached to a miniaturized motor that creates an oscillatory motion of the brush head. While the oscillatory sonic motion was originally developed to remove more plaque from the teeth than ordinary brushes, a revision of the enlarged brush head with soft, tufted bristles was developed for cleansing the face.
Effective at loosening debris from the pores
The company’s claims are valid: According to the aforementioned eMedicine.com review by dermatologist Dr. Zoe Draelos, “the sonic motion of the brush aids in dislodging facial debris, much like the sonic surgical-instrument cleansers that are used to clean liposuction cannulas and reusable injection needles.” In addition, Draelos adds, “the bristles of the face brush are designed to traverse facial dermatoglyphics, pores, and scars,” so the Clarisonic Skin Care Brush may be suitable for patients with acne, as unclogging the pores is a common goal of treatment.
May lessen breakouts
According to a 2006 study in the journal Cosmetic Dermatology, the Clarisonic Skin Care Brush may oscillate at sonic speed in such a way that inelastic comedones (pimples) become loosened and detached from the infundibular wall, and are then cleared from the acroinfundibulum of the skin.
Not harmful for your skin
The 2006 study in the journal Cosmetic Dermatology states that the Clarisonic Skin Care Brush is a “gentle” means of cleansing and prevents the skin from being compromised by acute or chronic infections resulting from inadequate cleansing of the skin.
Do you need a special cleanser with the Clarisonic Skin Care Brush?
According to the Clarisonic website, “any non-abrasive cleanser can be used.” However, Clarisonic further recommends “optimized” use of the Clarisonic Skin Care Brushwith one of their three cleansers.
Of the three cleansers, my favorite is the Clarisonic Gentle Hydro Cleanser ($25.00, Clarisonic.com) for normal to sensitive skin. The cleanser contains a fairly high concentration of antioxidant vitamin E, and keeps drying low-molecular weight alcohols to a minimum. My second favorite is Clarisonic Refreshing Gel Cleanser for normal to oily skin, which contains natural moisturizing factor hyaluronic acid, and fair concentrations of antioxidants grape seed, green tea, and ubiquinone. My least favorite of the three is Clarisonic Nourishing Care Cleanser for normal to dry skin, which contains olive oil, sodium hyaluronate, and a low concentration of antioxidant green tea.
How often do the brush heads need to be replaced?
According to the user’s guide, the brush heads should be replaced every 90 days when being used at the recommended frequency of two times per day. Brush heads are $25.00 each, and are available from Clarisonic for normal, sensitive, and delicate skin here.
As A Result…
I can’t wait to try it! I love the new technology and the idea of “deep cleansing” skin without being harsh or abrasive. The only unfortunate part is the high price tag. Product Rating: 9/10 (Ingredients with substantive research backing in high concentration: not applicable, New technology: 3/3, Value for the money: 2/3, Sunscreen: not applicable).
For more information, visit the Clarisonic Skin Care Brush site here.
For 18+ customer reviews, visit Amazon.com here.
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February 22nd, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Acne Treatments, Best Products, Best Products, Best Skincare Gifts, General Cosmetic Dermatology, Product Reviews |
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Every morning for the past four-and-a-half years, I have religiously applied Skinceuticals CE Ferulic ($103.70, Amazon.com) to my skin before sunscreen. The change in my skin was drastic within months (so much, in fact, that it may have been one of the stimuli that made me believe in dermatology). At any rate, you can imagine my excitement when I came across a product with the same amount of vitamin C (15% L-ascorbic acid), half the vitamin E (0.5% alpha-tocopherol) plus 0.5% of the powerhouse antioxidant idebenone, for about $35 less. That product is Cellbone Technology C15ie Advanced C-Serum ($68.00, Cellbone.com).
What are the differences between Cellbone Technology C15ie Advanced C-Serum and Skinceuticals CE Ferulic?
Cellbone Technology C15ie Advanced C-Serum contains idebenone, which is a very potent antioxidant. In a 2006 study in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, idebenone was ranked the most effective antioxidant in reducing oxidative stress. The official ranking of the six antioxidants ranked in the study is (in order from highest to lowest): idebenone, with an EPF [rating] of 95; vitamin E (tocopherol), with an EPF of 80; kinetin, with an EPF of 68; ubiquinone, with an EPF of 55; vitamin C (ascorbic acid), with an EPF of 52; and lipoic acid, with an EPF of 41. Unfortunately, other powerful antioxidants, like green tea, white tea, and coffeeberry, were not included in the study.
Skinceuticals CE Ferulic ($114.00, Amazon.com) contains no idebenone, but the same percentage of vitamin C (as L-ascorbic acid) and twice the concentration of vitamin E (as tocopherol acetate) as the Cellbone Technology C15ie Advanced C-Serum. The advantages of Skinceuticals CE Ferulic are that it carries twice the concentration of vitamin E and includes ferulic acid, which stabilizes vitamin C and E, increases antioxidant activity, and reduces the quantity of sunburned cells after UV exposure (see graphs below). Unfortunately, no studies have directly compared the stabilizing, antioxidant, or sunburn reduction activity of idebenone or ferulic acid, so it is difficult at this time to know for sure whether Cellbone Technology C15ie Advanced C-Serum or Skinceuticals CE Ferulic provides optimal protection.
The number of sunburned cells after UV exposure decreases with use of Skinceuticals CE Ferulic. Courtesy Skinceuticals.com
Why are vitamins C and E so important in skin care products?
According to Dr. Leslie Baumann’s Cosmetic Dermatology textbook, vitamin C and vitamin E are network antioxidants that have been found to synergistically enhance the power of one another. (When one antioxidant is depleted, it can essentially “borrow” an electron from the other antioxidant to renew itself, and vice versa). Vitamins C and E as L-ascorbic acid and tocopheryl acetate have also been reported by Djerassi et. al. to prevent the formation of carcinogenic nitrosamines. Vitamin C and vitamin E have also been shown in this 1996 study, amongst others, to enhance the photoprotective effects of sunscreen, as vitamin C has been reported to enhance UVA protection, whereas vitamin E is more effective against UVB radiation.
Lastly, vitamin C has also been found to decrease hyperpigmentation, although a study in the International Journal of Dermatology found that 4% hydroquinone was more effective in treating melasma than vitamin C as L-ascorbic acid. However, a separate study, also in the International Journal of Dermatology, found that combination therapy of 4% hydroquinone, vitamin C, vitamin E, and 10% glycolic acid was effective in treating signs of hyperpigmentation.
Vitamin E is naturally produced in sites rich in sebaceous glands, as it is physiologically delivered to the surface via secretion of sebum, according to this article in the journal Skin Pharmacology and Physiology. According to a second research study, this study by Packer and Valacchi, vitamin E may be the predominant natural antioxidant both in murine and human skin, and it shows a characteristic gradient with lower levels towards the outer stratum corneum layers.
So is Cellbone Technology C15ie Advanced C-Serum as Effective as Skinceuticals CE Ferulic?
Probably not, but it’s close. From ingredients alone, Cellbone Technology C15ie Advanced C-Serum certainly looks promising, with the same concentration of vitamin C as Skinceuticals CE Ferulic, and the addition of idebenone. However, the fact that Cellbone Technology C15ie Advanced C-Serum contains half the amount of vitamin E of Skinceuticals CE Ferulic concerns me, because vitamin E has many proven effects in the skin, particularly in conjunction with vitamin C. It’s a close call because 0.5% vitamin E and 0.5% idebenone have more antioxidant activity than 1% vitamin E. However, because vitamin C and vitamin E are network antioxidants that strengthen one another, 15% vitamin C and 1% vitamin E probably have more antioxidant activity than 15% vitamin C and 0.5% vitamin E and 0.5% idebenone. However, without a direct study, it’s hard to tell for sure. (If anyone knows, please contact me.)
Further, to determine the effect of Cellbone Technology C15ie Advanced C-Serum substituting idebenone for ferulic acid, a comparison study would need to be conducted. As a user (and avid fan) of Skinceuticals CE Ferulic for the past four years, I am planning to buy Cellbone Technology C15ie Advanced C-Serum next, and see what happens. (I will report results on the blog on March 26, 2008.)
Overall rating…
From ingredients alone, I give Cellbone Technology C15ie Advanced C-Serum a solid 9/10. (For the record, I give Skinceuticals CE Ferulic a 9.5/10, because of the higher concentration of vitamin E, and the established effects of vitamin E with vitamin C).
Ingredients in Cellbone Technology C15ie Advanced C-Serum
Water, L-Ascorbic Acid, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Propylenglycol, Glycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Zinc Sulfate, Bioflavonoides, Idebenone, Alpha Tocopherol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Centella Asiatica, Menthol
Ingredients in Skinceuticals CE Ferulic
Water, Ethoxydiglycol, L-ascorbic Acid, Propylene Glycol, Glycerin, Laureth-23, Alpha Tocopherol, Phenoxyethanol, Triethanolamine, Ferulic Acid, Panthenol, Sodium Hyaluronate
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February 13th, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Antioxidant Treatments, Best Products, Best Products, Best Skincare Gifts, Hyperpigmentation Treatments, Product Reviews |
9 comments
The skin on the lips is as susceptible to sun damage as anywhere else. Unfortunately, according to a University of Texas at Austin survey cited in the December 2007 Allure magazine, 71 percent of women do not apply sunscreen to their lips. Thankfully, the following The Cancer Council Australia Sun Care Cosmetics Lipsticks SPF 30+ ($20.00, Sasa.com) offer broad-spectrum UVA/UVB with a high SPF - the highest SPF I have found in a lipstick thus far. In eight different shades, surely there is one that looks (and does) good. For those who prefer lip gloss, The Cancer Council Australia Sun Care Cosmetics Moisturizing Lip Gloss SPF 30+ ($16.50, Sasa.com) offers the same sun protection for a few dollars less.
I particularly love the idea of a high SPF in a lipstick because the SPF on a cosmetics product is rarely the SPF offered with regular application. For instance, any powder product requires about 14 times the amount of normal powder application to receive the SPF listed on the package. So imagine if you lightly apply lipstick, how little SPF you get from a product with SPF 15! At least these lip products offer twice this.
The sunscreen ingredients in the lipsticks are Octyl Methoxycinnamate and Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane; according to Cosmetic Dermatology, patients who are allergic to cinnamic aldehyde and cinnamon oil may also be allergic to octyl methoxycinnamate. Other ingredients include moisturizing lanolin oil and antioxidant vitamin E.
At any rate, an excellent product! Product rating: 9.5/10
Ingredients
Ricinus Communis (Castor Seed) Oil
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
Lanolin Oil
Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax
Ozokerite
Microcrystalline Wax (Cera
Microcristallina)
Polybutene
Synthetic Wax
Butylparaben
Tocopherol
Propyl Gallate
May Contain (+/-):
Iron Oxides (CI 77489, CI 77491, CI
77492, CI 77499)
Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891)
Mica
Orange 5 (CI 45370) Lake
Red 6 (CI 15850) Lake
Red 7 (CI 15850) Lake
Blue 1 (CI 42090) Lake
Yellow 5 (CI 19140) Lake
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February 9th, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Antioxidant Treatments, Best Products, Best Products, Best Skincare Gifts, Product Reviews, Sunblocks |
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I will admit, I am not much of a trendy person — I tend to stick to the classics (think fitted tops and high heels). But, on location for Total Beauty at NYC Fashion Week 2008, I learned a few things. And I stopped by Sephora at 597 Fifth Avenue in NYC, where, in addition to great service, I learned what is flying off the shelves during Fashion Week from skin care expert Nadia:
1. Kinerase anything. According to Nadia, “Kinerase flies off our shelves - it’s our top seller.” And it’s no wonder: In a 2004 review by HA Epstein, a summary of similar studies comparing patients’ opinions about Renova to Kinerase found that a patient self-assessment of “good to excellent” improvement in signs of photoaging (skin roughness, mottling, and fine wrinkling) was more than doubled for Kinerase in each category when compared with a cream containing Renova, a prescription 0.02% tretinoin (retinoid) cream. However, while 0.1% kinetin in Kinerase may be more effective than 0.02% tretinoin (Renova), it should not be considered more effective than 0.04% or 0.1% tretinoin (Retin-A). For more on the active ingredient in Kinerase, kinetin (and a cheaper source from Almay), click here.
2. N.V. Perricone Advanced Face Firming Activator ($120.00, Amazon.com). Contains a high concentration of the AHA glycolic acid, along with alpha lipoic acid and DMAE to increase firmness and reduce the appearance of wrinkles somewhat. It has been found to have a firming efficacy similar to Retin-A, for a similar cost per package and no prescription. For a full review, please click here.
3. N.V. Perricone Advanced Eye Area Therapy ($95.00, Amazon.com). Contains GABA, an inhibitory neurotransmitter, which may temporarily inhibit nerves and reduce the appearance of wrinkles when applied topically, but not nearly as well or for anywhere near as long as BotoxTM. In addition, GABA may act as a topical inhibitor for some women but not for others, based on reviews of other products with GABA, like Freeze 24/7 Anti-Wrinkle Cream. Also contains two network antioxidants, alpha lipoic acid and vitamin C ester. While vitamin K and retinol together improve the appearance of dark circles, this product only contains vitamin K. Of all the best-selling products during Fashion Week in NYC, this is probably my least favorite.
4. Caudalie Vino Perfect Day Perfecting Cream SPF 15 ($68.00, Sephora.com). According to a 2002 study in Nutraceuticals and Food, the Viniferine ingredient in this product does inhibit tyrosinase activity, which will help hyperpigmentation (i.e., dark spots, discolorations, pregnancy mask, age spots, etc.) It also contains sunscreen for the delicate eye area, which I absolutely love. Unfortunately, Viniferine (a stilbenoid/plant extract) has not been compared in any peer-reviewed scientific studies with proven lightening agents like hydroquinone. Still, for women who are concerned about use of hydroquinone, this might make a possible alternative, as will a number of other treatments.
5. MD Skincare Alpha Beta Daily Face Peel ($75.00 for 30-day supply, Sephora.com). Excellent choice, NYC! This two-step peel contains ingredients like salicyclic acid, glycolic acid, green tea, retinol, and soy extract to cleanse and refine the skin on your face (and hands). One caveat: both glycolic acid and retinol make your skin more susceptible to sun damage, so be sure to use the product at night and follow up with a broad-spectrum UVA/UVB in the morning!
Special Thanks
A special thanks to TotalBeauty for the Fashion Week invite, Nadia at the Sephora at 597 Fifth Avenue in NYC, and to my awesome buddy Marie for accompanying me on my trip.
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February 7th, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Antioxidant Treatments, Best Products, Best Products, Best Skincare Gifts, Hyperpigmentation Treatments, Product Reviews |
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