A good question. According to reports by the FDA issued in February 2008, 12682 applicator tubes of the original formulation of Jan Marini Intervention Eyelash (about $2 million in product) was seized due to the product’s inclusion of bimatoprost. According to the FDA, exposure to bimatoprost increases pressure within the eye (intraocular pressure) in some patients, and may result in macular edema (swelling of the retina) and uveitis (inflammation in the eye), which may lead to decreased vision. Not good, to say the least. However, Jan Marini Cosmetics maintains that the new formulation of its eyelash conditioner, started in 2007. does not contain bimatoprost.
I personally used the original formulation of Jan Marini Intervention Eyelash back in the day, and it made a tremendous difference. (I have also used the new bimatoprost-free version, and unfortunately found it not to be nearly as effective.) Luckily for me and other short-lashed sistas, Botox manufacturer and pharmaceutical giant Allergan announced on June 4 that it is seeking FDA approval of bimatoprost for a new by-prescription only drug. If the product is FDA approved, your dermatologist could issue you a prescription for the new drug as early as the end of the third quarter of this year. Pretty exciting stuff, although I do not know how Allergan plans to get around the FDA with the known disastrous side effects of bimatoprost. I will keep definitely you posted on new updates!
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July 3rd, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Controversy, Cosmetic Dermatology News |
one comment
Yes, this is a serious post! According to the July 2008 issue of Oprah magazine, a recent study found that dermatologists’ median wait time for the evaluation of a mole is about 25 days, while the wait for Botox injections is 8 days. In other words, if you need a dermatologist to look at your mole, book that cosmetic procedure you’ve always wanted, and then ask when you’re there (kind of like a two-for-one deal)! Sad that this kind of thing happens, but so long as physicians are better compensated for cosmetic procedures than skin cancer screenings, this will inevitably occur. Luckily, you now have knowledge on your side. 
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June 18th, 2008
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futurederm |
Controversy, Cosmetic Dermatology News |
6 comments
Botox™ is an increasingly common phenomenon in American society. From celebrities to CEOs, supermodels to soccer moms, women to men, everybody is looking, well, a little less crinkly and a lot more smooth lately.
Thankfully, lots of great information is available on Botox. Here, I share everything I believe the savvy patient would want to know:
There are seven different serotypes of Botox™.
They are lettered A to G, with A being the most commonly used serotype as Botox (by Allergan), and B being used as Myobloc (by Ipsen Products). For more on the differences between the serotypes, please click here.
…But the person behind the needle ultimately matters as much as the chemical itself.
According to some records, Miami and New York City derm and “Baron of Botox™” Dr. Frederic Brandt™ administers more procedures per year than any other. But the reason for his popularity isn’t just the fact he reportedly has Madonna as a client: Brandt pioneered “the Botox™ Face Lift,” a series of injections that result in a face so lifted, it looks like a face lift. Botox is truly an art, so leave your face in the hands of a true master: according to DocShop.com, find a board-certified, fully licensed cosmetic dermatologist, cosmetic surgeon, or facial plastic surgeon who has conducted the procedure extensively, and do not be afraid to ask for photographs of other patients. However, do be wary of over-instructing the physician; for instance, some patients instruct the physician which part of the muscle to inject or how much injectable to use, and even though the patient may be very savvy, sometimes, the doctor really just does know best! In other words, once you find a trustworthy physician, let him/her do his/her job!
How Botox™ works:
According to Dr. Leslie Baumann’s Cosmetic Dermatology textbook, the most commonly used type of Botox™ is serotype A. When Botox™ serotype A is injected, it cleaves a protein that is necessary for a neurotransmitter release, effectively preventing the neurotransmitter from binding to cellular membranes to cause muscle contractions. (Hence your relaxed appearance afterwards!) And, for you science geeks, the exact protein that is cleaved is SNAP-25, the complex is the soluble N-ethylmaleimide sensitive factor attachment protein receptor, and the neurotransmitter is none other than acetylcholine.
Results are not instant.
Results generally take between 12 to 96 hours to fully appear, with the optimal effect occurring 7 days after the procedure.
The price may vary by physician and by patient.
According to Baumann, “the amount of botulism toxin needed per site depends on the musculature of the individual patient. Therefore, Botox™ and Myobloc should be priced by the number of units used, and not by the area treated…The price also varies according to the area of the country one lives in.” So don’t always expect to pay the same price as a friend or family member, and definitely don’t expect to cough over the same amount in, say, Cleveland and New York City.
The recent Botox™ scare is nothing to raise your brow over.
(Pun alert!) But seriously, no deaths in adults undergoing a cosmetic procedure have ever occurred from Botox™. A 2008 FDA investigation questioning the safety of Botox™ found that all of the serious events were in children exposed to extremely high doses of botulism toxin. The doses ranged from 6.25 to 32 units per kilogram of bodyweight — that is the equivalent of 460 to 2,400 units for an adult — a huge dose. The approved dose of Botox for cosmetic purposes is 20 units. Put simply, you would need to have a dermatologist inject you with 23 to 120 times the normal dose for toxic effects to occur. Not only is that about as likely as it to start raining elephants, but it has never happened to date - a sign you can surely rest assured of the procedure’s safety.
But there are documented side effects in some individuals…
According to the Botox™ Cosmetic website, patients with certain neuromuscular disorders such as ALS, myasthenia gravis, or Lambert-Eaton syndrome may be at increased risk of serious side effects from Botox. Aside from those patients, the most common side effects following injection include temporary eyelid droop and nausea. In addition, localized pain, infection, inflammation, tenderness, swelling, redness, and/or bleeding/bruising may be associated with the injection. Dr. Leslie Baumann recommends avoiding aspirin, green tea, nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs), and vitamin E 10 days prior to treatment, and topical vitamin K (as in one of my favorite formulations, Peter Thomas Roth Power K eye cream) afterwards. Ice packs may also help.
…including addiction to Botox!
Believe it or not, according to über dermatologist Dr. Patricia Wexler, “People with addictive personalities can get addicted to anything, and it’s up to the doctor to say ‘no’. That word should be in their vocabulary.”
…and there is the remote possibility that Botox use may change your brain structure.
This Italian study in the Journal of Neuroscience found that Botox™ injected into rats is not localized in the rats’ skin, but rather, travels to the rats’ brains, shutting off nerves there. My retort to this matches that of dermatologist Dr. Benabio, of the Derm Blog: “The study was done in rats, not people. We do not know if it would do the same thing in humans. Even if some botox did get into the brain, there is no evidence at all that it has any meaningful effect, good or bad.“ Still, if the idea of Botox™ potentially altering your brain structure freaks you out too much to keep using the stuff, Dr. Benabio recommends retinoids as tretinoin, and I particularly love non-prescription retinol formulations.
And you should NEVER make your own Botox™.
I got this one from The Derm Blog as well: don’t try to make your own homemade Botox from WikiHow, as this only leads to trouble. Remember, Botox is a prescription drug, and must be administered by a responsible physician!
No creams that are “better than Botox™” work quite as well as Botox™.
For instance, a 2006 study compared the efficacy of botulinum toxin type A (Botox™), placebo injection, StriVectin-SD®, Wrinkle Relax™, and HydroDerm™ (with palmitoyl oligopeptide), and found that none of the topical preparations were better than Botox in efficacy and overall patient satisfaction. This is most likely due to the fact that topical preparations of peptides increase collagen production over time, whereas Botox relaxes muscles and makes wrinkles very much less apparent within 1-7 days and stimulates collagen production over time. Another type of cream contains a GABA (inhibitory) neurotransmitter. Although companies claim that “100% of women” in their study experienced the 50-90% reduction in fine lines and wrinkles, the main ingredient, gamma aminobutyric acid, does not always have these types of results. GABA, an inhibitory neurotransmitter, may temporarily inhibit nerves and reduce the appearance of wrinkles when applied topically, but this effect varies from woman to woman, and is not usually anywhere comparable to Botox or other professionally-administered wrinkle reducers, particularly because topically applied GABA cannot affect synaptic transmission at the cellular level, whereas injected Botox certainly can.
Botox™ is only getting more popular…
According to Science, it’s one of the fastest growing cosmetic procedures in the world in 2008, with an estimated 1 million Americans undergoing the procedure. Before making the decision, find an experienced board-certified, licensed dermatologist or plastic surgeon or cosmetic surgeon, and, of course, stay informed with the latest news on FutureDerm.com, ;-) (Shameless, I know…)
COMMENT!
Remember, 1 comment = 1 entry in the first big FutureDerm.com and Skinmedix.com giveaway, to be held this Friday, June 19, 2008! (And 1 link to the blog on another site = 5 entries!)
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June 17th, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Controversy, Cosmetic Dermatology News, General Cosmetic Dermatology |
13 comments
Although I’m only 23, I’ve noticed that stressful events make my skin look dull, thinner, and, well, just older. But I was recently curious as to whether or not science stands behind my findings, or if stress just makes you think your skin is aging.
Truth is, science verifies that stress accelerates skin’s rate of aging. According to dermatologist Dr. Amy Weschler in this month’s Shape magazine, “The skin has its own endocrine system, and releases cortisol [a stress hormone] and endorphins [calming hormones] accordingly. When cortisol levels increase, the rate of skin’s healing slows, collagen breaks down faster, and inflammation increases.” Hence, the skin looks dull, thinner, and shows lines more quickly and easily. Dr. David E. Bank, author of Beautiful Skin, adds in the book, “If you chronically stress yourself out…you deprive your skin of crucial oxygen and nutrients and aggravate any skin condition you may already have, such as eczema or acne.”
Thankfully, the same techniques that cure stress in the body soothe the skin as well. In addition to the usual anti-stress advice (sleep 7-8 hours per night, eat a healthy and balanced diet, relax more often), I love the following untraditional advice, from one of my favorite authors, Martha Beck:
- Write down the things you have to do tomorrow. Now think about how each activity makes you feel. Give each activity a rating on a scale from 1 (evokes a feeling of dread) to 10 (makes you feel like your best day ever). If your day is filled with mostly activities that fill you with dread or even a simple lack of excitement, you may not be living your best life. (And if that’s the case, I really recommend the book Finding Your North Star to find your way back. I am not being paid to say this; it is just my favorite non-dermatology book of all time!)
- Think about people, places, and events in your life that make you peaceful and happy. What do these events have in common? There is surely a common thread. For me, it’s reading, writing, learning new things, and traveling, which indicated to me as a pre-med that I should be pursuing side work in writing as well as studying to become a doctor. The website (and upcoming book
) really help me relax and make my life better on a regular basis. You too can find a rewarding activity, and help your stress levels - (and your skin )
- Reward yourself with fun activities - and often. For instance, after doing the laundry each week, I let myself spend half an hour reading a book or magazine.
- Look beyond yourself when you look in the mirror. For instance, stop focusing in on every little flaw, and instead, see the bigger picture, which is actually closer to how others usually perceive you. I personally started looking at the shower curtain behind me and my appearance in the bathroom mirror. Try it - It’s comforting!
For more anti-stress tips, here is an article from About.com.
While you are devoted to skin care, it’s good to know that your emotional health counts as well. Here’s to being as stress-free as possible, dear readers!
PS - Only 5 days left until the FutureDerm and Skinmedix.com giveaway!
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June 14th, 2008
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futurederm |
Cosmetic Dermatology News, The Worst Things For Your Skin |
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With swimsuit season under way, cellulite treatments fly off the shelves. One dermatological procedure that is popular is Lipomassage by Endermologie. According to Dr. Leslie Baumann’s textbook Cosmetic Dermatology, Endermologie entails the use of a handheld machine that “kneads” areas of a patient that are covered in a nylon stocking (usually buttocks, hips, stomach, thighs) for 35 to 45 minutes. LPG, the company behind Endermologie, claims that the procedure has recently been improved (hence the “lipomassage”) so that results are available in as little as six sessions, although individual results may vary.
The FDA has approved LPG’s claim that Endermologie temporarily reduces the appearance of cellulite. In one company-affiliated, controlled, randomized study done on Lipomassage by Endermologie, it was found that lipolytic (fat-dissolving) activity of cutaneous and subcutaneous tissue was increased by 20-35%, with lipolytic activity measured as a result of glycerol production. Unfortunately, I could not find any other new studies on the new Lipomassage by Endermologie. The original Endermologie, however, has met with mixed reviews. For instance, one study in Aesthetic Plastic Surgery found that seven sessions of Endermologie reduced mean body index circumference by 1.38 cm, while fourteen sessions (twice as many) reduced mean body index circumference by 1.83 cm. And even though Endermologie was granted FDA approval for “temporary improvements” in cellulite, research published in the Journal of Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery reported that “the authors do not believe…[the treatment] is effective in improving the appearance of cellulite.”
Still, it’s difficult to determine if the improvements to Endermologie could make a dramatic difference. According to LPG, the new Lipomassage by Endermologie procedure entails three “rotating” steps that distinguish it from the original Endermologie:
• Roll’in : for areas of excess, dense and stubborn fat : body slimming
• Roll’out : for delicate, loose area of skin : firmer skin
• Roll’up : for redesigning the body’s folds : : body contouring
So what is a woman to do? Given the current information on Endermologie, I think I would wait before rushing to the dermatologist’s office for this treatment, at least until more research on the “new, improved” Endermologie is conducted and published. Until then, research demonstrates the following is effective:
- Maintain a steady weight. Gaining and losing weight too quickly can create irregular gaps of adipose (fatty) tissue in the skin, leading to skin’s bumpy appearance.
- Improve circulation to the area. This can be done through Endermologie or even simple massage.
- Reinforce the skin’s collagen and elastin production with retinol. According to a study by Draelos et. al, decreased circulation in the thighs and buttocks eventually leads to increased amounts of enzymes that destroy elastin and collagen (elastase and collagenase, respectively), which in turn lead to the gaps in the dermal structure where fat cells peek through. Retinoids can increase collagen and elastin production over time, helping to prevent future gaps in the dermal structure. I recommend Green Cream Level 6 ($43.00, Amazon.com) with 0.6% retinol under a hydrating cream, like Olay Quench Body Lotion ($18.64 for two, Amazon.com).
- Consult this old post for more!
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June 11th, 2008
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futurederm |
Cosmetic Dermatology News, Spotlight On... |
9 comments
Back again by popular demand, DUN DUN, it’s the return of the best of the beauty blogs this week!
This week’s favorite 5 posts, in no particular order:
Beauty’s Spot reviews Murad Age Reform AHA/BHA Exfoliating Cleanser. Based on her review and the ingredients list at Amazon.com, the cleanser sure does seem like one you shouldn’t miss. One caveat, though: those with sensitive skin may not appreciate the cleanser’s high concentration of sodium lauryl sulfate, despite even the inclusion of skin care greats like glycolic acid, lactic acid, and vitamin C.
The Indian Make Up Diva reviews Fresh Umbrian Clay Mask. Although there isn’t exactly a plethora of scientific research about Umbrian clay, according to the Indian Make Up Diva, the stuff works for curing clogged pores and blemishes. I especially like the Indian Make Up Diva in general because it gives a heads-up on skin care and cosmetics for women with darker skin tones, which I don’t know a lot about (yet) but will have to treat someday. So this blog is awesome!
Sharnell’s Skin Care gives tips on how to prevent stretch marks during pregnancy. Although some studies say that moisturization doesn’t always work, this woman’s personal account insists otherwise. I personally believe that there is truth to religiously moisturizing the skin during pregnancy to prevent stretch marks!
The Derm Blog explains why flaxseed oil makes you look younger. For my personal favorite source of flaxseed, try GNC Cold-Milled Certified Organic Flaxseeds ($9.99, Drugstore.com). The seeds are fantastic and a great source of fiber when crushed and put over cereal, salads, or yogurt.
Nutritionist Christine McKinney explains why you might want to consider a vitamin D supplement. Particularly interesting if you are avoiding the sun and are concerned that your body may not be producing enough vitamin D!
Come back tomorrow for a review of M Lab skincare!
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June 7th, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Cosmetic Dermatology News |
5 comments
Although this is predominantly a blog about skin care and dermatology, I know from comments and e-mails that my readers also tend to be money-savvy and ingredient-aware. With that said, certain toothpastes from discount stores, such as select dollar stores, are actually toxic, according to the April 2008 issue of Self magazine. These toothpastes (which are usually imported from China) may contain diethylene glycol, a chemical that can cause kidney failure. Although diethylene glycol has an LD50 that demonstrates it is much less toxic than ethylene glycol, it is still inappropriate for even minor consumption. With that said, stick to drugstore brand toothpaste, and find another way to save money!
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June 3rd, 2008
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futurederm |
Controversy, Cosmetic Dermatology News |
9 comments
If you read my blog enough, you know that I am a diehard Skinceuticals CE Ferulic junkie. I would probably inject, inhale, and snort the $128 serum if it were possible to do so. (And yes, this is me being sarcastic, haha.)
So imagine my surprise when I discovered that Skinceuticals has a new serum: Skinceuticals Phloretin CF ($128.00, Skinmedix.com). It’s kind-of like CE Ferulic was a Harvard grad, only to have its baby cousin Phloretin CF emerge and become a Rhodes Scholar: Phloretin CF is just that amazing. Preliminary research demonstrates that it is basically a super antioxidant that not only fights free radicals, but also protects against DNA damage and penetrates well into the skin. As said in June 2008 issue of Oprah, “Phloretin, a natural extract that’s been studied as an anticancer agent, is the newest antioxidant available topically; research has shown it can penetrate the skin and provide significant UV protection.” According to Dr. Brenton B. Koch, M.D., F.A.C.S., SkinCeuticals developed Phloretin CF after five extensive years of research. Dr. Koch elaborates in his blog, “This powerhouse formulation divides and conquers when it comes to damage at every level. Phloretin CF protects against not only free radicals, but the range of other reactive molecules known to cause damage and DNA mutations among integral cell types. In addition, it corrects existing damage by stimulating the synthesis of essential proteins and fibers and accelerating cell turnover.” Additional research in The Journal of Biological Chemistry shows that phloretin is an inhibitor of sugar transport amongst red blood cells, which holds some level of promise as to the role phloretin may play in AGE formation and the subsequent hardening of the skin’s collagen.
So how does Phloretin CF differ from CE Ferulic? Basically, Skinceuticals:
- removed all the vitamin E (1% to 0%) and 5% of the vitamin C from CE Ferulic (from 15% to 10%)
- kept the same level of ferulic acid as an antioxidant stabilizer (0.5%)
- added in 2% phloretin (from 0% to 2%)
What is exciting about this is that 2% phloretin reportedly is a very powerful antioxidant, not only fighting free radicals, but also protecting DNA from future damage and penetrating the skin in a way the ingredients in CE Ferulic were not shown to in published research. What is not exciting is that the product not only contains less vitamin C than CE Ferulic, but took out the vitamin E altogether, and vitamin C and vitamin E in combination have many well-established functions together, including prevention of the formation of carcinogenic nitrosamines and enhancing the photoprotective effects of sunscreen, as vitamin C has been reported to enhance UVA protection, whereas vitamin E is more effective against UVB radiation. Vitamin C and vitamin E are also two antioxidants that are able to “borrow” an electron to enhance one another.
So which is better? The word is still out, until some brilliant scientist decides to do a comparison study of 15% L-ascorbic acid and 0.5% vitamin E versus 10% L-ascorbic acid and 2.0% phloretin. I say, if you are a cautious person, stick to the proven CE Ferulic until more research inevitably surfaces. (And my own personal experience from doing a switch to Phloretin CF, which will be available on the blog on June 17. ) On the other hand, if you are a trendy person who likes to be the first to try new things, then I would try Phloretin CF, because it is likely that 2.0% phloretin is equally or even more effective than 0.5% vitamin E, though one cannot be sure of such a thought.
At any rate, I love Phloretin CF! Be sure to come back on June 17 (and hopefully before, haha) to get the full scoop on my personal experiences from the switch!
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June 2nd, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Anti-Aging Treatments, Antioxidant Treatments, Best Products, Best Products, Cosmetic Dermatology News, Firming Treatments, Hyperpigmentation Treatments, Product Reviews |
21 comments
What better way to celebrate the Sex and the City movie premiere than with cocktails (like the ladies themselves)? Here is a cocktail for your face, as well as a Cosmopolitan recipe with NUVO Sparkling Liqueur:
The At-Home Facial Cocktail for Softer, More Hydrated Skin
What You’ll Need:
- 1 California Avocado (California avocados are the type of choice because of their high oil content)
- 1/4 cup of plain yogurt
According to Shalini Vadhera, celebrity make-up artist and author of Passport to Beauty, the avocado should be smashed first, then the yogurt added. Once mixed, brush the mask on your face, and allow to chill for about twenty minutes.
Why it works: Avocados have been known for their hydrating properties in moisturizers from some time, as cited in a 1995 study in Archives of Dermatological Research. There is also a limited amount of evidence suggesting that avocados may improve the skin’s defensive functions, as published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science.
Why yogurt works well comes down to the milk in the product, which contains lactic acid, an alpha hydroxy acid. Although the preferred alpha hydroxy acid is usually glycolic acid (because glycolic acid increases the thickness and firmness of the skin over time, while lactic acid does not), lactic acid is able to hydrate the skin extremely well. In fact, prescription LacHydrin, with ammonium lactate (a relative of lactic acid) is used to treat dry skin.
The Nuvo Liqueur Cosmopolitan (not for your face )
What You’ll Need:
- 1 part ultra premium Vodka
- 2 parts Nuvo Liqueur
- Ice in a martini glass
According to a friend of mine who sent me this recipe, Nuvo Liqueur is the first sparkling liqueur ever made, - a blend of vodka, some delicate French sparkling wine, and a touch of natural fruit nectar. She sent me the recipe in honor of the Sex and the City premiere. And while I don’t drink much, if I were to have a Cosmo for the Sex and the City premiere, I’d definitely use her recipe!
A Note About the Movie
I saw it today (it was my day off work!!), and it was fabulous. When I wasn’t crying tears of sympathy or laughter, I was drooling over the incredible handbags and outfits. Ladies, if you loved Sex and the City on TV, you have to go and see this movie!
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May 30th, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Cosmetic Dermatology News, Uncategorized |
10 comments
Ahhh, yes, back by popular demand: my favorite posts of the week!
I personally have always loved rose water; in fact, my first big department store purchase was a now-discontinued moisturizer with rose water as the main ingredient. And now one of my favorite derms, Dr. Leslie Baumann, verifies rose water’s goodness in an awesome post! Rose water is now available in Jurlique Rosewater Balancing Mist ($31.00, Amazon.com).
An excellent post by dermatologist Dr. Benabio in The Derm Blog. Highly recommended for anyone even considering laser hair removal!
Girl-Woman-Beauty-Brains is a beauty blog from two very smart, savvy women. It regularly features a lot of really interesting posts about everything from make-up to fitness. I was really excited to do the interview!
The ever-popular Nadine Haobsh AKA Jolie blog features pictures of her pretty self with UV imaging…we all have sun damage, so I’m definitely not singling her out, but when you see her perfect-looking skin with UV imaging, it really serves as a great reminder that we all need to wear sunscreen every single day.
Product Girl is giving away a Sex and the City package including DVD essentials, coffee table book, and soundtrack. I. Dig. It.
Stop back tomorrow for a review of the new Olay Definity cream…and a book all about skin care!
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May 27th, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Cosmetic Dermatology News |
11 comments
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