
Spin Lash is a new product that actually rotates 360o to give you a fuller, more separated lash line. While the product comes with its own hypoallergenic, contact lens-safe mascara, the rotating brush is suitable for use with any mascara, which is certainly a welcome feature.
The good parts about Spin Lash is that it works - lashes really do look fuller and more separated after using the rotating system. The brush head is also made of synthetic materials, so it feels rubbery, like a silicone brush. I like it - it reminds me of Cover Girl Lash Blast. In addition, the mascara itself builds nicely and comes off easily with soap and water.
The not-so-good parts are that the Spin Lash technique takes a little while to master (I’m not used to putting anything mechanically rotating near my eye, so it took a bit of practice!), and the brush is not good for getting those hard-to-reach corner lashes.
However, overall, if you have some patience, Spin Lash is a sensational product. I think it especially makes a really great gift for the makeup junkie in your life! 
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May 30th, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Best Skincare Gifts, Cosmetics, Product Reviews |
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The pathway of glutathione oxidation-reduction. Source: The Robert Edwards Group.
Glutathione is a potent antioxidant that is naturally found in the skin. Unfortunately, according to The Prescription for Nutritional Healing, glutathione levels decrease 30-35% over the course of one’s lifetime with normal aging. In the body, glutathione acts as an antioxidant and detoxifier, most prominently in the liver, kidneys, and bone marrow.
In the skin, glutathione has been found to be more prevalent in the epidermis (outermost layer of skin) than the dermis. Together with vitamin C, glutathione is actually one of the major water-soluble antioxidant metabolites naturally found in the cell, according to Dr. Rafaela M. Quiroga in the textbook Cosmetic Dermatology. Glutathione protects cells after an enzyme known as glutathione peroxidase catalyzes the reaction between glutathione and hydrogen peroxide, ultimately forming water and oxidized glutathione, which is a stable compound.
It has also been well-established that glutathione levels decrease with exposure to UV light, according to The Journal of Investigative Dermatology (amongst other sources), in a manner that is similar to other antioxidants, like vitamin C or vitamin E. With continued exposure to UV light, the lower levels of glutathione increase the skin’s susceptibility to UV-induced damage, as findings reported in Photochemistry and Photobiology suggest.
To supplement levels of glutathione, N-acetylcysteine is often taken as an oral supplement, which is converted to glutathione in the body. While typical dosages of N-acetylcysteine range from 250-1500 mg/day and no toxic level has been established as of yet by the FDA, check with your doctor to be safe, as side effects have been reported in some individuals.

Glutathione has also been shown to be an effective antioxidant when topically applied to the skin. However, the effects of glutathione can be enhanced by either lipoic acid or vitamin C, because these ingredients effectively recycle the antioxidant power of glutathione. For this reason, glutathione is best used in formulations with lipoic acid and/or vitamin C. One excellent formulation is Perricone Pore Refining Concealer ($35.00, Sephora.com), with glutathione and lipoic acid. Another is Philosophy When the Hope is Not Enough Facial Serum ($38.00, Sephora.com), with glutathione and vitamin C.
Overall, glutathione is a promising antioxidant. Because its levels naturally decrease with age, leaving the skin more susceptible to UV-induced damage, I think it seems like a good idea to use a cream or serum with glutathione. As always, consult with your derm if you have any concerns! 
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May 15th, 2008
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futurederm |
Anti-Aging Treatments, Antioxidant Treatments, Cosmetics, Dry Skin Treatments, Pore Size Treatments, Spotlight On... |
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Recently, cosmetics companies have been having a field day trailing on the success of Bare Escentuals, each releasing their own formulation of mineral powder. Because it’s rather difficult to tell them all apart, FutureDerm is here to come to the rescue. To find out which has the best ingredients, as well as the best texture, read on…

Neutrogena Mineral Sheers Powder Foundation claims to “enhance skin clarity, tone, and texture.” Ingredients-wise, it lives up to the claims, with a plethora of skin-beneficial ingredients. Ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and tocopheryl acetate (vitamin E) are one of my favorite combinations of ingredients, and are well-touted throughout this blog. Vitamin C and vitamin E synergistically enhance the power of one another, and have been reported by Djerassi et. al. to prevent the formation of carcinogenic nitrosamines, and have also been shown in this 1996 study, amongst others, to enhance the photoprotective effects of sunscreen. One further thing I love: vitamin C is often unstable in formulations, but according to Dr. Burgess’s Cosmetic Dermatology textbook, “the most stable vitamin C preparations remain anhydrous or completely water-free,” like in Neutrogena Mineral Sheers Powder Foundation.
Neutrogena Mineral Sheers Powder Foundation also contains retinyl palmitate. Although retinyl palmitate was found in a 1997 study in the Journal of Investigative Dermatology to be less effective in penetrating the skin than retinol, it has been shown to exhibit the collagen-stimulating, smoothing, and wrinkle-reducing properties of retinol over time. In addition, retinyl palmitate has also been shown to be less irritating than retinol, which makes it promising in a powder formulation.
The final ingredient in Neutrogena Mineral Sheers Powder Foundation that I love is soybean flour. Soybean has been shown in numerous studies to exhibit anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, to stimulate collagen and hyaluronic acid production of human fibroblasts in vitro, and to lighten the appearance of sunspots after use for two weeks.
As far as product application goes, Neutrogena Mineral Sheers Powder Foundation goes on easily, even over sunscreen. The high concentration of mica and silica in the product makes it reflect the light, while the dimethicone makes it thicker than other Neutrogena powders I have tried in the past. It covers well and looks great, and I think it is the best choice if you are looking for light to medium coverage with skin-beneficial ingredients. Just one caveat: do not expect this or any other powder to give you sun protection. Although it says SPF 20, any powder product requires about 14 times the amount of normal powder application to receive the SPF listed on the package, so a powder with an SPF of 20 is really providing an SPF of about 1.2 with normal use.
Active Ingredients: Titanium dioxide. Inactive Ingredients: Mica, Octyldodecyl Stearoyl Stearate, Zinc Stearate, Silica, Dimethicone, Oryza Sativa Starch (Rice), Magnesium Myristate, Methicone, Ascorbic Acid, Tocopheryl Acetate, Retinyl Palmitate, Pantothenic Acid, Panthenol, Glycine Soja Flour (Soybean), Alumina, Silk Powder, Water, Polymethyl Methacrylate, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, May Contain: Iron Oxides, Nylon 12, Carmine

Clinique Almost Makeup SPF 15 claims to be “a long-wear formula” that “keeps pores out of trouble.” That’s always good - I was pretty upset the last time I had to go downtown and bail my pores out. (Sorry, I’ll stop putting bad humor in here, haha.)
At any rate, Clinique Almost Makeup SPF 15 is a solid talc-based formulation. Suitable for dry skin, Clinique Almost Makeup SPF 15 contains sodium hyaluronate, which in its unprotonated form as hyaluronic acid is a natural moisturizing factor that binds up to 1000 times its weight in water, according to one of my favorite dermatologists, Dr. Leslie Baumann. However, sodium hyaluronate, with similar water-binding abilities, is commonly used instead of hyaluronic acid in skincare products due to its greater chemical stability (Kewpie) and still-hydrating capabilities.
When applied, Clinique Almost Makeup SPF 15 feels thicker than Neutrogena Mineral Sheers Powder Foundation, and I feel that it provides greater (heavier) coverage. I like this product better than Neutrogena Mineral Sheers Powder for dry skin types or for those women who would like more coverage. Still, like with the Neutrogena product, don’t expect to get an SPF of more than 1 with this product.
Ingredients (01 Fair And 04 Neutral)
Active Ingredients: Titanium Dioxide 13.00% • Octinoxate 2.00%
Ingredients: Talc • Dimethicone • Nylon-12 • Silica • Squalane • Boron Nitride • Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer • Cetyl Caprylate • Diisostearyl Malate • Phytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate • Methicone • Aluminum Hydroxide • Glycerin • Sodium Hyaluronate • Magnesium Palmitoyl Glutamate • Sodium Palmitoyl Sarcosinate • Palmitoyl Proline • Alumina • Tocopherol • Palmitic Acid • 1,2-Hexanediol • Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate • Tin Oxide • Sodium Dehydroacetate • [+/- Iron Oxides (Ci 77499, Ci 77492, Ci 77491) • Mica • Titanium Dioxide (Ci 77891)]
Ingredients (07 Deep)
Active Ingredient: Titanium Dioxide 6.90%
Ingredients: Talc • Silica • Isostearyl Palmitate • Methicone • Sodium Hyaluronate • Triethoxycaprylylsilane • Nylon-12 • Glycerin • Alumina • Tetrasodium Edta • Chlorphenesin • Potassium Sorbate • Sodium Dehydroacetate • [+/- Mica • Titanium Dioxide (Ci 77891) • Iron Oxides (Ci 77491, Ci 77492, Ci 77499)]

Avon Ideal Shade Mineral Makeup is free of talc, oil, or fragrance. Of all three powders, Avon Ideal Shade Mineral Makeup is definitely the formulation closest to Bare Escentuals, with mica, bismuth oxychloride, and iron oxides. The consistency of Avon Ideal Shade Mineral Makeup is also the most similar to Bare Escentuals, with a half-foundation/half-powder type duality, and mastery of the application technique is a must.
Ascorbyl palmitate (a form of vitamin C) and tocopherol (vitamin E) provide some additional sun protection, while retinyl palmitate helps to refine skin texture and to improve cell turnover over time. The product feels like a heavier powder but covers like a good foundation, and stays put all day. If you are looking for a mineral powder experience that is completely distinct from normal powders, then I would recommend Avon Ideal Shade Mineral Makeup over the other two. (And again, wear sunscreen under it!!!)
Ingredients
MICA
TITANIUM DIOXIDE
KAOLIN
ZINC PCA
SODIUM HYALURONATE
SODIUM PCA
LECITHIN
UREA
C12-15 ALKYL BENZOATE
SILICA DIMETHYL SILYLATE
WATER/EAU
LAURYL PCA
TREHALOSE
ASCORBYL PALMITATE
ATELOCOLLAGEN
PHENYL TRIMETHICONE
BETA-CAROTENE
POLYQUATERNIUM-51
RETINYL PALMITATE
SODIUM CHONDROITIN SULFATE
TOCOPHEROL
NYLON-12
METHYLPARABEN
PROPYLPARABEN
MAY CONTAIN:
IRON OXIDES
BISMUTH OXYCHLORIDE
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May 14th, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Anti-Aging Treatments, Antioxidant Treatments, Best Products, Best Products, Cosmetics, Dry Skin Treatments, Hyperpigmentation Treatments, Product Reviews, Spotlight On..., Sunblocks, sunscreen |
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What better to match great skin than a sexy smile? Dr. Pia Lieb’s Sexy Smile 2-in-1 lip gloss and tooth whitener ($17.10, Amazon.com) gives you a sexy smile and soft, shiny lips. Used on the go up to six times per day, Sexy Smile claims that it can make your smile “up to 12 shades lighter” and prevent future stains from forming on your teeth.
Long-lasting lip gloss that makes your teeth appear whiter
The main ingredients in Sexy Smile lip gloss are polybutene, petrolatum, octyldodecanol, squalane, and beeswax, all of which are excellent moisturizing agents that will lock in skin’s moisture and retain its shiny properties for longer than ordinary lip glosses.
The secret to making teeth look whiter? A cool-toned base coloring that is not at all visible to the naked eye. While warm tones tend to bring out the yellow in teeth, the cool tones of Sexy Smile make your teeth appear whiter instantly.
After using the product myself, I noticed that my lips stayed shinier for longer than usual, and felt soft, not at all sticky. The lip gloss is also not flavored, which I found unusual for a lip gloss, but I liked it anyway.
Beneficial lip gloss ingredients
Sexy Smile contains all of the moisturizing agents listed above, plus shea butter, antioxidant vitamin E, soothing aloe, skin-smoothing retinyl palmitate, and antioxidant vitamin C as ascorbyl palmitate. Although vitamin C as ascorbyl palmitate is more stable than L-ascorbic acid, it is still most likely not effective in the clear container of the lip gloss. However, given the fact that vitamin C and vitamin E are network antioxidants, I doubt that Sexy Smile is in any way pro-oxidant.
Does it really make your teeth whiter?
I am not a tooth expert at all (hence why this is FutureDerm and not FutureDent, haha). But with all due seriousness, hydrogen peroxide is a main ingredient in Sexy Smile that is used in even higher concentrations regularly in dentists’ offices to whiten the teeth. Applying the treatment 2-3 times a day (for 6-10 seconds/tooth each time) made a difference in my teeth over the course of a week; in fact, I would say my teeth are about 2 shades whiter, and I drink coffee and Diet Coke, so that’s saying something.
My only complaint? The treatment doesn’t have a great flavor, as there is a higher concentration of bitter hydrogen peroxide than the sugary alcohol xylitol. Still, once you get used to it (and learn not to get very much anywhere but on your teeth), the results are sensational.
About Dr. Pia Lieb
According to the product website, Dr. Pia Lieb is a graduate of New York University College of Dentistry, Dr. Lieb has served as an appointed Clinical Assistant Professor, Instructor and Associate Module Director at her alma mater for 14 years. Published and quoted regularly in medical journals, she also currently holds professional affiliations with the American Academy of Cosmetic Dentistry, American Academy of Aesthetic Dentistry, Academy of General Dentistry and American Dental Association.
Overall Opinions
I love Sexy Smile! I love the softness, beneficial ingredients, and long-lasting property of the lip gloss, plus the idea that I can whiten my teeth all through the day. I started carrying it around and using it over lipstick. My only complaint? You guessed it - the lack of sunscreen. I recommend wearing it over a SPF-containing, softening lipstick.
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April 9th, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Best Products, Best Products, Cosmetics, Product Reviews |
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Avon Supershock Mascara ($4.99, Amazon.com) claims to be a ‘12 on a scale from 1 to 10.’ Pretty big claims for one little tube of mascara…until you pull out the gi-normous brush! But how does it measure up to other formulas? And does the brush really make a difference? (Oh, and for the record, it comes in black, brown, navy, and teal, shown above.)
Contains a high concentration of wax and beeswax
One of Avon Supershock Mascara’s main ingredients is wax, which is a common ingredient for mascaras, because it coats the lashes and allows for additional coats to be added and bind. Although Neutrogena famously released its Healthy Volume mascara sans wax a few years back, the ingredient continues to be used in top mascaras because it builds lashes so well.
Not great for lower lashes
In my opinion, the large brush makes it awfully hard to get the lower lashes (I tried it, and I ended up with linebacker lines under my eyes. Which would have been fine before a Steelers game, but it’s March!)
Purely cosmetic, but pretty good
Unlike most of the products I review on FutureDerm.com, Avon Supershock Mascara is purely cosmetic, but still does a great job making the upper lashes look longer and thicker. I recommend applying it to the upper lashes, gently curling your eyelashes with an eyelash curler, and then quickly applying a second coat. Wiggle the brush a little bit each time you apply it, and keep your mouth open slightly (a trick I read in Allure years ago, it helps you hold your face still).
The best mascara I have ever used is still Lancome Hypnose. I will keep searching for a better one!
If you are actually looking to grow longer lashes, I recommend using Revitalash ($134.95, Amazon.com) once per day for six weeks. It significantly helped to improve the length of my lashes, and the beautiful Becki Newton (Ugly Betty) says she swears by it in this month’s In Style magazine.
At any rate, for the appearance of better upper lashes, Avon Supershock Mascara certainly can’t be beat for the price!
Ingredients in Avon Supershock Mascara
WATER/EAU
SHELLAC WAX/CIRE DE LAQUE
BEESWAX/CIRE D ABEILLE
STEARIC ACID
C18-38 ALKYL HYDROXYSTEAROYL STEARATE
TRIETHANOLAMINE
COPERNICIA CERIFERA (CARNAUBA) WAX/CIRE DE CARNAUBA
BIS-PEG-12 DIMETHICONE BEESWAX
AMMONIUM ACRYLATES COPOLYMER
CYCLOPENTASILOXANE
GLYCERIN
GLYCERYL STEARATE
PARAFFIN
PROPYLENE GLYCOL
SORBITAN SESQUIOLEATE
CELLULOSE
HYDROXYETHYLCELLULOSE
POLYQUATERNIUM-10
PVP
GALACTOARABINAN
SODIUM HEXAMETAPHOSPHATE
STEARYL DIHYDROXYPROPYLDIMONIUM OLIGOSACCHARIDES
SODIUM LAURETH SULFATE
STEARDIMONIUM HYDROXYPROPYL PANTHENYL PEG-7 DIMETHICONE PHOSPHATE CHLORIDE
DIMETHICONE
POLYQUATERNIUM-11
POLYQUATERNIUM-7
LAURETH-30
SORBITAN STEARATE
PEG-40 STEARATE
SILICA
METHYLPARABEN
PROPYLPARABEN
TETRASODIUM EDTA
PHENOXYETHANOL
MAY CONTAIN:
IRON OXIDES
ULTRAMARINES/CI 77007
MICA/CI 77019
TITANIUM DIOXIDE/CI 77891
BLACK 2/CI 77266
CARMINE/CI 75470
BISMUTH OXYCHLORIDE/CI 77163
BLUE 1 LAKE/CI 42090
CHROMIUM HYDROXIDE GREEN/CI 77289
CHROMIUM OXIDE GREENS/CI 77288
FERRIC AMMONIUM FERROCYANIDE/CI 77510
MANGANESE VIOLET/CI 77742
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March 28th, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Cosmetics, Product Reviews |
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At the request of some readers, I decided to go ahead and review more cosmetics. :-) Two I have recently been asked to review are stila Perfecting Concealer ($22.00, Amazon.com) and stila Pressed Powder ($28.00, Amazon.com). Both claim to keep a control on shine, while disguising your noticeable flaws. But are they really effective? Read on…
A very good concealer
stila Perfecting Concealer contains high concentrations of hydrogenated polyisobutene and talc, giving the formula a thickened consistency. Talc is the softest mineral, and is often used in oil-absorbing cosmetics for its efficacy. Although talc has been speculated to cause skin cancer in the past, this is because older forms of talc contained potentially carcinogenic asbestiform amphibole fibers. The U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) considers non-asbestiform talc, as in stila Perfecting Concealer, to be Generally Recognized As Safe (GRAS) for use in cosmetics. stila Perfecting Concealer also contains silica, which helps skin reflect the light after application.
stila Perfecting Concealer goes on thick and covers extremely well. The best part is that it dries evenly and with a light sheen from the silica particles. Once completely dry (after about five minutes), it can be layered with another coat for those especially hard-to-conceal places.
A light but concealing powder
stila Pressed Powder also conceals well, with a high concentration of opaque talc. It also contains silica to reflect the light, and mineral oil to moisturize the skin. A small amount of vitamin E provides a bit of antioxidant powder, but it is such a small amount (<1%, most likely) that it’s not really a selling point.
What is a selling point in stila Pressed Powder is the way it makes your skin look perfect over stila Perfecting Concealer. I’m usually a big believer in skin care over cosmetics, but these products made my skin look airbrushed.
Bottom line: Makes good skin look better
If you have good skin already, stila Perfecting Concealer and stila Pressed Powder disguise flaws and reflect the light, making your skin look even better.
On the other hand, if you have some problems with your skin, you may want to try a powder with more skin-nourishing ingredients. For instance, if your skin is acne-prone, you may want to try a powder that contains salicyclic acid instead, like Neutrogena Skin-Clearing Oil Free Pressed Powder ($19.98 for two, Amazon.com). Or, if your skin is dry and shows some fine lines and age spots, you may want to try a powder that contains niacinamide, like the new Cover Girl Advanced Radiance Age-Defying Pressed Powder ($16.62 for two, Amazon.com).
Bottom line: stila Perfecting Concealer and stila Pressed Powder are great for a cosmetic cover-up. They don’t contain many skin-benefiting ingredients, but if you’ve been treating your skin right all along, these work like airbrushing! :-) Product Rating: 8/10 (Value for the money: 2/3. Efficacy (at concealing): 3/3. Concentration of effective (at concealing) ingredients: 3/3. Sunscreen: 0/1).
Ingredients in stila Perfecting Concealer
Hydrogenated polyisobutene, talc, caprylic/capric triglyceride, squalane, dipentaerythrityl hexahydroxystearate/hexastearate/hexarosinate, hydrogenated styrene/ isoprene copolymer, nylon-12, ethylhexyl stearate, stearalkonium hectorite, boron nitride, tocopheryl linoleate, caprylyl glycol, hexylene glycol, propylene carbonate, bht, phenoxyethanol, [+/- titanium dioxide (ci 77891), iron oxides (ci 77491, ci 77492, ci 77499), ultramarines (ci 77007)]
Ingredients in stila Pressed Powder
Talc, Polymethyl Methacrylate, Silica, Zea Mays (Corn) Starch, Octyldodecyl Lactate, Isononyl Isononanoate, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Cetearyl EthylHexanoate, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract, Caprylyl Glycol, Hexylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Dimethicone, Zeolite, Nylon 12, Zinc Stearate, BHT, Phenoxyethanol, Sorbic Acid, May Contain (+/-): Mica, Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891), Iron Oxides (CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499), Ultramarines (CI 77007)
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March 21st, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Best Products, Best Products, Cosmetics |
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