Recently, I was surprised to find a line that gives whole new meaning to the word “cosmeceutical”: Exederm Ultra Sensitive Skin Care. Exederm is a line formulated for sensitive skin that contains no colors, parabens, lanolin, fragrance, sodium lauryl sulfate or formaldehyde. But what really surprised me about Exederm products was relatively high non-prescription concentration of hydrocortisone in the Flare Control Cream - 1%.
Hydrocortisone is a synthetic form of the stress hormone, cortisol, that used to be known as Compound E. Hydrocortisone was developed in order to treat allergic reactions and inflammation, and is used in concentrations of 0.5-1% (as in Exederm products) to treat sensitive skin symptoms. To treat sensitive skin and mild rashes, Exederm should be applied 2-3 times a week until symptoms cease.
Because hydrocortisone is absorbed in the bloodstream, it is well-known that prescription strength hydrocortisone can cause a variety of undesirable side effects (excess hair growth, burning, redness) with repeated use over time. For this reason, I personally use Exederm whenever I have contact dermatitis from trying a new product, and keep it in my medicine cabinet for those emergency cases. I wouldn’t personally use the Flare Control Cream for longer than two weeks at a time, to prevent side effects from occurring.
Exederm Cleansing Wash goes on without a lot of bubbles, which makes sense, with the low concentration of surfactants. Still, it leaves skin feeling clean without feeling dry or tight. The fact that the facial wash is completely free of oil, sodium lauryl sulfate, color, parabens, fragrance, formaldehyde and hydrocortisone makes it perfect for daily use.
Exederm Flare Control Cream contains 1% hydrocortisone, making it extremely effective but not suitable for long-term use. However, it is very effective against red, irritated, and itchy skin; in fact, I would venture to say that this is the next best thing to a prescription, since a doctor would give you 2-4% hydrocortisone, whereas this is 1%. I used it on a patch of poison ivy for the past 2 days (I just got a dog, and I chased her through a park…not a good idea, haha), and it really alleviated the itch. Ahhh….
Exederm Intensive Moisture Cream goes on light, but once on, you can tell that the second ingredient is super hydrator petrolatum. It is very hydrating and feels cooling on a rash. It doesn’t contain anti-aging ingredients or sunscreen, but it is a solid moisturizer that is suitable for anyone with sensitive skin.
Overall, I’m very impressed with the Exederm Ultra Sensitive Skin Care line. I especially love the Exederm Cleansing Wash for everyday and the Flare Control Cream for itchy redness for two week intervals. Overall, I give this line a solid 9/10. (High concentration of well-proven ingredients: 3/3. Unique formulation: 3/3. Value for the money: 3/3. Sunscreen: 0/1).
Share on Facebook
Email This Post
July 15th, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Best Products, Best Products, Dry Skin Treatments, How to Get Rid of..., Product Reviews, Spotlight On..., eczema treatments |
no comments
Every once in a while, I am really impressed with a product not so much for the ingredients, but for the way the ingredients come together to make a truly great formulation. That is the case with Gloves in a Bottle ($9.99, Amazon.com). Designed as a shielding lotion, Gloves in a Bottle works by forming a delicate protective barrier on the skin that keeps oils and moisture sealed into the skin.
The secret of Gloves in a Bottle is mainly dimethicone, a silicone that has been proven to seal moisture into the skin. Dimethicone has also been found to prevent certain bacteria from infecting the skin, as reported in this 2002 study in the Journal of Parasitology. I know that it seems almost outrageous that a skin lotion would be able to protect the skin from bacteria, but the claim appears to be sound, making Gloves in a Bottle particularly desirable for those in the healthcare professions, in which frequent hand washing strips the hands of moisture and in which keeping levels of bacteria low is a must.
After my mother and I used Gloves in a Bottle for two weeks, we both thought that it made our skin softer. My mother said that it made her skin less dry after washing her hands. I actually started to keep Gloves in a Bottle in a dispenser by the bathroom sink. I also used Gloves in a Bottle as a foot cream, and found that it made my feet softer, smoother, and more hydrated.
Of course, I am not saying Gloves in a Bottle is a miracle anti-aging product: it has no antioxidants, retinoids or alpha hydroxy acids, or sunscreen to protect against signs of aging. However, if dry skin is your primary concern, I highly recommend Gloves in a Bottle anyway - it truly is very effective in treating dry skin! 
Product rating: 9/10 (High concentration of proven ingredients: 3/3. New technology or formulation: 3/3. Value for the money: 3/3. Sunscreen: 0/1).
For LOTS more about Gloves in a Bottle, please visit www.GlovesInABottle.com!
Ingredients in Gloves in a Bottle
Purified Water, Dimethicone, Stearic Acid, Glycerin, Cetyl Alcohol, Isopropyl Myristate, Stearyl Alcohol, Triethanolamine, Xanthan Gum, Hypromellose, PVP/Hexadecene Copolymer, Steareth 21, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Propylparaben
Share on Facebook
Email This Post
June 1st, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Best Products, Best Products, Dry Skin Treatments, Hand Treatments, Product Reviews |
8 comments
So, recently, I started trying a lot of skin care creams (hey, a blogger’s gotta do what a blogger’s gotta do. 
) And, what do you know, I ended up with a pretty bad case of contact dermatitis, resulting in a horrible itchy rash that not even two weeks’ worth of prescription hydrocortisone could cure.
But then someone turned me on to Intelligent Aesthetics Gentle Cleansing Gel ($30.00), Comforting Skin Primer ($20.00) and AM/PM Healing Complex ($28.00). Immediately after using the products, my red, inflamed skin felt smoother and cooler. (And no, as usual, I am not being paid to say this.) The next day, my skin looked to be healing, and it felt comfortable for the first time in weeks. I’m not completely cured yet, but let me tell you, I am well on my way and I love this stuff.
Science backs it up, too. Two of the ingredients in the Intelligent Aesthetics Gentle Cleansing System are willow extract and chamomile, which have been shown in numerous studies to have healing and anti-inflammatory properties. Another great ingredient is oat extract. A 2002 study in Skin Pharmacology and Physiology found that topical application of practical concentrations of Avena Sativa (Oat) Extract reduced skin irritation in the majority of the individuals studied. Avena Sativa (Oat) extract has also been documented to be effective as a soothing and anti-inflammatory agent in the journal Phytotherapy. Other great ingredients in the line include hydrating vitamin E, anti-aging retinyl palmitate, and antioxidant vitamin C.
But my favorite ingredient in Intelligent Aesthetics Gentle Cleansing System is actually the blend of peppermint and spearmint extracts. Although the menthol that distinguishes peppermint from spearmint is sometimes touted as an irritant, both peppermint and spearmint have long been established as anti-inflammatory agents, according to the text Herbal Medicine and Botanical Medical Fields. The blend of mint extracts left my skin feeling cool, clean, and refreshed…completely unlike the itchy discomfort of contact dermatitis.
I highly recommend this line to anyone without a menthol allergy who is suffering from irritated skin! I love it!! 9.5/10 (no sunscreen)
Share on Facebook
Email This Post
May 20th, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Best Products, Best Products, Best Skincare Gifts, Dry Skin Treatments, Uncategorized, eczema treatments |
16 comments
The pathway of glutathione oxidation-reduction. Source: The Robert Edwards Group.
Glutathione is a potent antioxidant that is naturally found in the skin. Unfortunately, according to The Prescription for Nutritional Healing, glutathione levels decrease 30-35% over the course of one’s lifetime with normal aging. In the body, glutathione acts as an antioxidant and detoxifier, most prominently in the liver, kidneys, and bone marrow.
In the skin, glutathione has been found to be more prevalent in the epidermis (outermost layer of skin) than the dermis. Together with vitamin C, glutathione is actually one of the major water-soluble antioxidant metabolites naturally found in the cell, according to Dr. Rafaela M. Quiroga in the textbook Cosmetic Dermatology. Glutathione protects cells after an enzyme known as glutathione peroxidase catalyzes the reaction between glutathione and hydrogen peroxide, ultimately forming water and oxidized glutathione, which is a stable compound.
It has also been well-established that glutathione levels decrease with exposure to UV light, according to The Journal of Investigative Dermatology (amongst other sources), in a manner that is similar to other antioxidants, like vitamin C or vitamin E. With continued exposure to UV light, the lower levels of glutathione increase the skin’s susceptibility to UV-induced damage, as findings reported in Photochemistry and Photobiology suggest.
To supplement levels of glutathione, N-acetylcysteine is often taken as an oral supplement, which is converted to glutathione in the body. While typical dosages of N-acetylcysteine range from 250-1500 mg/day and no toxic level has been established as of yet by the FDA, check with your doctor to be safe, as side effects have been reported in some individuals.
Glutathione has also been shown to be an effective antioxidant when topically applied to the skin. However, the effects of glutathione can be enhanced by either lipoic acid or vitamin C, because these ingredients effectively recycle the antioxidant power of glutathione. For this reason, glutathione is best used in formulations with lipoic acid and/or vitamin C. One excellent formulation is Perricone Pore Refining Concealer ($35.00, Sephora.com), with glutathione and lipoic acid. Another is Philosophy When the Hope is Not Enough Facial Serum ($38.00, Sephora.com), with glutathione and vitamin C.
Overall, glutathione is a promising antioxidant. Because its levels naturally decrease with age, leaving the skin more susceptible to UV-induced damage, I think it seems like a good idea to use a cream or serum with glutathione. As always, consult with your derm if you have any concerns!
Share on Facebook
Email This Post
May 15th, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Anti-Aging Treatments, Antioxidant Treatments, Cosmetics, Dry Skin Treatments, Pore Size Treatments, Spotlight On... |
7 comments
Recently, cosmetics companies have been having a field day trailing on the success of Bare Escentuals, each releasing their own formulation of mineral powder. Because it’s rather difficult to tell them all apart, FutureDerm is here to come to the rescue. To find out which has the best ingredients, as well as the best texture, read on…
Neutrogena Mineral Sheers Powder Foundation claims to “enhance skin clarity, tone, and texture.” Ingredients-wise, it lives up to the claims, with a plethora of skin-beneficial ingredients. Ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and tocopheryl acetate (vitamin E) are one of my favorite combinations of ingredients, and are well-touted throughout this blog. Vitamin C and vitamin E synergistically enhance the power of one another, and have been reported by Djerassi et. al. to prevent the formation of carcinogenic nitrosamines, and have also been shown in this 1996 study, amongst others, to enhance the photoprotective effects of sunscreen. One further thing I love: vitamin C is often unstable in formulations, but according to Dr. Burgess’s Cosmetic Dermatology textbook, “the most stable vitamin C preparations remain anhydrous or completely water-free,” like in Neutrogena Mineral Sheers Powder Foundation.
Neutrogena Mineral Sheers Powder Foundation also contains retinyl palmitate. Although retinyl palmitate was found in a 1997 study in the Journal of Investigative Dermatology to be less effective in penetrating the skin than retinol, it has been shown to exhibit the collagen-stimulating, smoothing, and wrinkle-reducing properties of retinol over time. In addition, retinyl palmitate has also been shown to be less irritating than retinol, which makes it promising in a powder formulation.
The final ingredient in Neutrogena Mineral Sheers Powder Foundation that I love is soybean flour. Soybean has been shown in numerous studies to exhibit anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, to stimulate collagen and hyaluronic acid production of human fibroblasts in vitro, and to lighten the appearance of sunspots after use for two weeks.
As far as product application goes, Neutrogena Mineral Sheers Powder Foundation goes on easily, even over sunscreen. The high concentration of mica and silica in the product makes it reflect the light, while the dimethicone makes it thicker than other Neutrogena powders I have tried in the past. It covers well and looks great, and I think it is the best choice if you are looking for light to medium coverage with skin-beneficial ingredients. Just one caveat: do not expect this or any other powder to give you sun protection. Although it says SPF 20, any powder product requires about 14 times the amount of normal powder application to receive the SPF listed on the package, so a powder with an SPF of 20 is really providing an SPF of about 1.2 with normal use.
Active Ingredients: Titanium dioxide. Inactive Ingredients: Mica, Octyldodecyl Stearoyl Stearate, Zinc Stearate, Silica, Dimethicone, Oryza Sativa Starch (Rice), Magnesium Myristate, Methicone, Ascorbic Acid, Tocopheryl Acetate, Retinyl Palmitate, Pantothenic Acid, Panthenol, Glycine Soja Flour (Soybean), Alumina, Silk Powder, Water, Polymethyl Methacrylate, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, May Contain: Iron Oxides, Nylon 12, Carmine
Clinique Almost Makeup SPF 15 claims to be “a long-wear formula” that “keeps pores out of trouble.” That’s always good - I was pretty upset the last time I had to go downtown and bail my pores out. (Sorry, I’ll stop putting bad humor in here, haha.)
At any rate, Clinique Almost Makeup SPF 15 is a solid talc-based formulation. Suitable for dry skin, Clinique Almost Makeup SPF 15 contains sodium hyaluronate, which in its unprotonated form as hyaluronic acid is a natural moisturizing factor that binds up to 1000 times its weight in water, according to one of my favorite dermatologists, Dr. Leslie Baumann. However, sodium hyaluronate, with similar water-binding abilities, is commonly used instead of hyaluronic acid in skincare products due to its greater chemical stability (Kewpie) and still-hydrating capabilities.
When applied, Clinique Almost Makeup SPF 15 feels thicker than Neutrogena Mineral Sheers Powder Foundation, and I feel that it provides greater (heavier) coverage. I like this product better than Neutrogena Mineral Sheers Powder for dry skin types or for those women who would like more coverage. Still, like with the Neutrogena product, don’t expect to get an SPF of more than 1 with this product.
Ingredients (01 Fair And 04 Neutral)
Active Ingredients: Titanium Dioxide 13.00% • Octinoxate 2.00%
Ingredients: Talc • Dimethicone • Nylon-12 • Silica • Squalane • Boron Nitride • Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer • Cetyl Caprylate • Diisostearyl Malate • Phytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate • Methicone • Aluminum Hydroxide • Glycerin • Sodium Hyaluronate • Magnesium Palmitoyl Glutamate • Sodium Palmitoyl Sarcosinate • Palmitoyl Proline • Alumina • Tocopherol • Palmitic Acid • 1,2-Hexanediol • Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate • Tin Oxide • Sodium Dehydroacetate • [+/- Iron Oxides (Ci 77499, Ci 77492, Ci 77491) • Mica • Titanium Dioxide (Ci 77891)]
Ingredients (07 Deep)
Active Ingredient: Titanium Dioxide 6.90%
Ingredients: Talc • Silica • Isostearyl Palmitate • Methicone • Sodium Hyaluronate • Triethoxycaprylylsilane • Nylon-12 • Glycerin • Alumina • Tetrasodium Edta • Chlorphenesin • Potassium Sorbate • Sodium Dehydroacetate • [+/- Mica • Titanium Dioxide (Ci 77891) • Iron Oxides (Ci 77491, Ci 77492, Ci 77499)]
Avon Ideal Shade Mineral Makeup is free of talc, oil, or fragrance. Of all three powders, Avon Ideal Shade Mineral Makeup is definitely the formulation closest to Bare Escentuals, with mica, bismuth oxychloride, and iron oxides. The consistency of Avon Ideal Shade Mineral Makeup is also the most similar to Bare Escentuals, with a half-foundation/half-powder type duality, and mastery of the application technique is a must.
Ascorbyl palmitate (a form of vitamin C) and tocopherol (vitamin E) provide some additional sun protection, while retinyl palmitate helps to refine skin texture and to improve cell turnover over time. The product feels like a heavier powder but covers like a good foundation, and stays put all day. If you are looking for a mineral powder experience that is completely distinct from normal powders, then I would recommend Avon Ideal Shade Mineral Makeup over the other two. (And again, wear sunscreen under it!!!)
Ingredients
MICA
TITANIUM DIOXIDE
KAOLIN
ZINC PCA
SODIUM HYALURONATE
SODIUM PCA
LECITHIN
UREA
C12-15 ALKYL BENZOATE
SILICA DIMETHYL SILYLATE
WATER/EAU
LAURYL PCA
TREHALOSE
ASCORBYL PALMITATE
ATELOCOLLAGEN
PHENYL TRIMETHICONE
BETA-CAROTENE
POLYQUATERNIUM-51
RETINYL PALMITATE
SODIUM CHONDROITIN SULFATE
TOCOPHEROL
NYLON-12
METHYLPARABEN
PROPYLPARABEN
MAY CONTAIN:
IRON OXIDES
BISMUTH OXYCHLORIDE
Share on Facebook
Email This Post
May 14th, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Anti-Aging Treatments, Antioxidant Treatments, Best Products, Best Products, Cosmetics, Dry Skin Treatments, Hyperpigmentation Treatments, Product Reviews, Spotlight On..., Sunblocks, sunscreen |
6 comments
For all mothers do every day of the year, there’s nothing better than giving Mom some luxury and comfort for Mother’s Day. And, in my personal opinion, nothing says luxury and comfort like thoughtful skin care. Here are some really special finds online that fit the bill perfectly:
1. Create a free website for Mom on Your Mom’s Philosophy.com. On Your Mom’s Philosophy.com, you can create a site about your mom and share your favorite stories, pictures, and videos - all for free. Other visitors will rate your page, and if yours is one of the top 20 ranked sites, your page will be featured on Philosophy.com on Mother’s Day as a finalist. From the 20 finalists, online voters will select one to receive the grand prize, a philosophy gift basket valued at $250. As an added bonus, everyone who creates a page will have a chance to win a $1200 shopping spree on Philosophy.com. I truly love this idea!
And, of course, philosophy has excellent Mother’s Day gift sets too. One of my favorites is the philosophy Amazing Grace Deluxe Gift Set ($85.00, Drugstore.com). For $85, the set includes an 8 oz. 3-in-1 shower gel, an 8 oz conditioner, an 8 oz body emulsion, a 4 oz hand cream, and a 2 oz fragrance. Best of all, the set features the peace-inducing Amazing Grace motto: How you climb the mountain is just as important as how you get down the mountain, and so, as it is with life, for which so many of us becomes one big gigantic test followed by one big gigantic lesson. In the end, it all comes down to one word: grace. it’s how you accept winning and losing, good luck and bad luck, the darkness and the light. So true - and so “Mom”.
2. Protect Mom’s skin with Celazome Serum Vitae for day ($54.00, SkinStore.com). Although my favorite skin serum is still Skinceuticals CE Ferulic, Celazome Serum Vitae is making a strong case for itself, with a high concentration of magnesium ascorbyl palmitate (a more stable form of vitamin C than in CE Ferulic) and vitamin E, plus anti-aging retinol, soothing aloe and lavender, and hydrating dimethicone and hyaluronic acid. Dr. Leslie Baumann even recommends it on her blog as a “top 5 spring skin care product.” To save money, sign up at eBates.com for free before you buy, and receive 8% cash back on your purchase, plus $10 bonus if you sign up before May 31, 2008!
I say this product is great for day because it contains vitamins C and E. which have been shown to enhance the effects of sunscreen. However, retinol can make the skin photosensitive, so if you use this product during the day, be sure to use it under a compatible moisturizer with sunscreen.
3. …and Lindi Face Serum for night ($40.00, LindiSkin.net). Available in lavender and citrus scents, Lindi Skin Face Serum contains a very high concentration of astaxanthin extract, a potent antioxidant. It also contains a high concentration of soybean oil, antioxidant vitamin E in two forms, hydrating ceramide 2, collagen-stimulating palmitoyl oligopeptide and ascorbyl palmitate, and soothing aloe. Despite the plethora of ingredients, Lindi Skin products are reportedly very gentle for the skin, as they are developed by a team of scientists for cancer patients undergoing radiation therapy and chemotherapy, who often experience nausea from skin care products due to scent, irritation, and even inflammation or stinging.
4. Give Mom sophisticated luxury with John Varvatos eau de parfum ($67.28, Amazon.com). I recently tried this perfume, and someone gave me the perfect term to describe it: “Mature.” A rich ambery floral with “fruity nuances”, it is definitely a scent for a sophisticated woman. According to the scent’s website, it product exudes “warmth, delicacy, elegance and sensuality.” New for the Spring, it’s one for the sophisticate for sure.
Here’s to great skin for Mom for Mother’s Day! Be sure to share some of your favorite Mother’s Day gift ideas too!
Share on Facebook
Email This Post
May 2nd, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Anti-Aging Treatments, Antioxidant Treatments, Best Products, Best Products, Best Skincare Gifts, Cosmetic Dermatology News, Dry Skin Treatments, Firming Treatments, Hyperpigmentation Treatments, Product Reviews, Quick Questions, Special Offers, Spotlight On..., Wrinkle Treatments |
one comment
Although I normally apply the excess skin care products from my face onto my hands, as I get older, I notice that I grow to like separate hand creams more and more all the time. Enter Le Couvent Des Minimes Gardener’s Hand Healer ($5.00 for 0.8 oz, $25.00 for 2.6 oz, LeCouventdesMinimes.us) into my quest for the perfect hand cream.
The very rich cream is fortified with a blend of seven nourishing and hydrating ingredients (please click on the links for verifying research studies/texts): shea butter (hydrating), mimosa (restorative), chamomile (anti-inflammatory), marshmallow, calendula (antiseptic), lemon balm (antibacterial), rosemary (an antioxidant), and verbena (relaxing). After I applied it, the cream felt thick on my hands, but not sticky.
I recommend using the product at night, for two reasons: One, it doesn’t contain sunscreen, so you’re probably better off carrying around a hydrator with sunscreen like Neutrogena Norwegian Formula SPF 30 Hand Cream ($9.79, Drugstore.com) or Bath and Body Works True Spa Love Me Tender SPF 15 Hand Cream ($13.00, BathandBodyWorks.com). Two, the lemon balm in the product offers a rather potent fragrance. And while I personally adore the scent of lemons, it may clash with, say, your usual Chanel No. 5.
I love using this product under cotton gloves right before bed - I wake up to soft and restored hands. Definitely a wonderful product, worth a shot after all the incidental and beach sun exposure your poor hands will be getting this summer!
Share on Facebook
Email This Post
April 27th, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Best Products, Best Products, Dry Skin Treatments, Hand Treatments, Product Reviews |
one comment
Do I sense a hot new ingredient? In the May 2008 issue of Elle, one of my favorite derms, Dr. Leslie Baumann, reports, “Unlike other exotic resources such as caviar and marine algae, argan oil offers the best of both worlds…It’s an antiager and it’s eco-friendly.” Dubbed ‘the gold of Morocco,’ argan oil contains essential fatty acids (linoleic and oleic acids) and antioxidant polyphenols. Argan oil is now available in Kiehl’s Superbly Restorative Dry Oil with Organic Fairly Traded Argan Body Lotion ($35.00, Kiehls.com) Kiehl’s Superbly Restorative Body Lotion with Organic Fairly Traded Argan Oil ($30.00, Kiehls.com), Liz Earle Naturally Active Skincare Superbalm, and will soon be included in Aveda Green Science products. What does independent clinical research say about argan oil? Read on to find out.
An antioxidant that is good for the environment
There are few natural ingredients that have been tested to show the power of cosmeceutical ingredients - but argan oil is one of them. According to Elle, argan oil has three times the amount of antioxidant vitamin E found in olive oil. Further, Pat Peterson, the executive director of research and development for Aveda, tells the magazine, “The antioxidants and fatty acids work synergistically to stop inflammation.” According to Aveda’s in-house clinical tests, subjects showed a 38 percent improvement in lines after eight weeks of using their upcoming argan-rich firming face cream.
How exactly does argan oil benefit the environment? Through the Targanine Cooperative, 2000 Moroccan women work to preserve the Argan Forest by planting new trees and harvesting argan nuts. Because argan oil is exclusive to this land, it is “a source of dependable income and a means of improving their financial independence, access to healthcare, and education,” according to a Kiehl’s press release. Model Josie Maran adds in Elle, “Purchasing the oil from the women’s cooperatives supports their social and economic welfare.” All work in Morocco for Kiehl’s products is also fair-trade, fostering a healthy, safe, environmentally friendly work environment in which workers are fairly compensated for their labor.
What do linoleic and oleic fatty acids do for the skin?
An omega-6 unsaturated (i.e., contains double bonds) essential fatty acid, linoleic acid has been shown in several research studies (cited here) to be capable of reducing inflammation and acne and increasing skin’s moisturization levels. On the other hand, oleic acid is a omega-9 monounsaturated (i.e., contains only one double bond) nonessential fatty acid that makes up 55-60% of olive oil and 56% of açai berry. According to a Kiehl’s press release, linoleic and oleic fatty acids both help protect and maintain skin elasticity, smoothness, and radiance.
Ingredients-wise, both are fantastic, particularly for all-natural products. Both contain vitamin E, olive oil, and avocado oil, which are all excellent natural antioxidants and skin emollients.
Both drink into the skin quickly, and leave a strong herbal scent. I think the oil is fabulous for retaining skin’s moisture levels immediately post-shower, so long as you like the scent. The oil also makes your skin fabulously smooth and shiny-looking, so if you want to show off smooth, shimmery legs in a mini this summer, applying Kiehl’s Superbly Restorative Body Lotion with Organic Fairly Traded Argan Oil is a fabulous way to do it!
Overall opinions of argan oil
If you demand your skin care is good for the environment, but want results too, then you don’t get much better than products that contain argan oil. The ingredient hydrates with essential fatty acids and protects with far more antioxidant vitamin E than olive oil. I love it personally, and am a new fan of Kiehl’s Superbly Restorative Body Lotion with Organic Fairly Traded Argan Oil. If you love natural and want results, go for it!
Share on Facebook
Email This Post
April 13th, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Antioxidant Treatments, Best Products, Best Products, Dry Skin Treatments, Natural Products, Product Reviews, Spotlight On... |
5 comments
Weleda Skin Food ($10.00, Amazon.com) has been receiving a lot of attention lately as an all-natural, highly effective moisturizer. Chocked full of natural plant and seed oils, Weleda Skin Food sounds like it should make all-natural devotees happy…but does it?
Sunflower Seed Oil
Sunflower seed oil appears to replace dry skin’s fatty acid deficiency. According to a very small study (3 individuals!) published in the Journal of Investigative Dermatology, application of sunflower-seed oil to the individuals’ right forearms for 2 weeks markedly increased the amount of lecithin in the patients’ skin, the rate of transepidermal water loss was significantly lowered, and the scaly lesions disappeared. Interestingly (and surprisingly!), these results were not found with olive oil. However, the authors speculate that the reason is that sunflower seed oil is a natural source of linoleic acid, whereas olive oil is a source of oleic acid.
Another exciting finding with sunflower seed oil: topical application has been found to prevent bacterial infections in infants in one small, controlled Egyptian study.
Sweet Almond Oil
Sweet almond oil naturally has excellent hydrating properties. In fact, sweet almond is the massage oil most commonly used by the professional masseuse, for it absorbs into the skin at a pleasant speed and hydrates without becoming too greasy.
One warning: Because of the almonds used in the manufacturing process, sweet almond oil is not to be used on or by individuals with nut allergies.
Beeswax and Hydrolyzed Beeswax
In a partially-blind, single-controlled study in Complementary Therapies in Medicine, a mixture of beeswax, honey, and olive oil was found to improve symptoms of 8/10 patients with dermatitis and 5/10 patients with psoriasis. (Unfortunately, Weleda Skin Food only contains beeswax and hydrolyzed beeswax, not honey or olive oil.)
Beeswax in its most commonly used form, PEG-20 Sorbitan Beeswax, has been declared safe for use upon review in the International Journal of Toxicology. It is generally included in cosmetics and skin care as a hydrating ingredient.
Rosemary Extract
Rosemary extract is generally used as a natural antioxidant, as it is a natural source of three antioxidant compounds: carnosic acid, carnosol, and rosmarinic acid. In a 1996 study, it was found that the antioxidant capacities of these compounds varies greatly depending on the lipid constituency and pH of the formulation.
In general, according to the “polar paradox” of Porter et. al. (cited here), polar antioxidants function better in nonpolar (oily) formulations, whereas nonpolar antioxidants function better in polar emulsions. For this reason, as suspected, the polar carnosic acid and rosmarinic acid have been found to be more effective in oil-based creams like Weleda Skin Food, whereas the nonpolar carnosol has been found to be more effective in water-based creams.
The other consideration with the efficacy of rosemary extract as an antioxidant is its pH. At the slightly acidic pH of 4-5, rosemary extract’s three antioxidant components function optimally. However, at a neutral pH of 7, rosemary extract loses all pH activity. I don’t have Weleda Skin Food here to do a litmus test, but an educated guess suggests that the pH is somewhere around 7 - but if you have information to refute this, please comment!
Calendula extract
Also known as marigold extract, this extract “has many pharmacological properties. It is used for the treatment of skin disorders, pain and also as a bactericide, antiseptic and anti-inflammatory.“ It also functions as an effective natural antioxidant. However, the concentration of calendula extract in Weleda Skin Food is rather low, and its properties may not be very evident after use.
Use
From reading others’ opinions of the cream and studying the ingredients, Weleda Skin Food is thick and creamy. It does not drink in immediately, but still remains non-greasy.
Overall opinions
At the moment, I am always a little more skeptical of “all-natural” skin treatments, for the simple reason that there are less published scientific research studies incorporating “all-natural” ingredients and their efficacy. At any rate, however, there is no denying that the studies out there demonstrate that the ingredients in Weleda Skin Food make it a hydrating, soothing, cost-effective, unique all-natural antioxidant cream. It may not have the antioxidant power of, say, Topix Replenix (with green tea polyphenols) or Revale Skin (with coffeeberry), but for the cost and for being all-natural, it’s a great choice. Product rating: 8.5/10 (High concentration of proven ingredients: 2.5/3 (minus half point for limited research). New technology or unique formulation: 3/3. Value for the money: 3/3. Sunscreen: 0/1).
Ingredients in Weleda Skin Food
Water (Aqua), Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Lanolin, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil, Alcohol, Beeswax (Cera Flava), Glyceryl Linoleate, Hydrolyzed Beeswax, Fragrance (Parfum), Viola Tricolor Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Cholesterol, Limonene, Linalool, Geraniol, Citral, Coumarin.
Share on Facebook
Email This Post
April 7th, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Antioxidant Treatments, Dry Skin Treatments, Hand Treatments, Natural Products, Product Reviews |
one comment
MD Skincare Hydra Pure Oil Free Moisture ($75.00, MDSkincare.com) contains the Hydra-Pure Chelating Complex®, which claims to remove harmful impurities left on the skin by tap water, and to increase the penetration of other active ingredients. It is actually those other ingredients in MD Skincare Hydra Pure Oil Free Moisture that really get to me: vitamins C and E, green tea extract, genistein, ubiquinone, palmitoyl pentapeptide-3, and soothing aloe vera.
What are chelators? Do they really benefit the skin?
Chelators are bi- or multi-dentate ligands that are capable of binding (with several different bonds) to metals. The idea of putting chelators in a skin care cream comes from chelation therapy, an established medical practice in which chelating agents like dimercaptosuccinic acid (DMSA), 2,3-dimercapto-1-propanesulfonic acid (DMPS) and alpha lipoic acid (ALA), are used for treating lead poisoning and heavy metal toxicity. In independent clinical research, chelators have been shown for being effective in preventing certain metal-induced forms of contact dermatitis. It has also been suggested in several studies, including this 1994 study in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, that use of iron chelators is able to provide some photoprotection for UV-irradiated skin. As such, from the research, it seems not only to be novel to use chelators in skin creams, but also beneficial.
There are, however, side effects to normal chelation therapy. As of this time, however, I am unaware of any negative reports from chelators at the low concentration found in MD Skincare Hydra Pure Oil Free Moisture.
Vitamins C and E
Yes, again!!! Two days in a row I have found creams with this synergistically beneficial mixture, and I love it! The benefits are multiple (and have been stated elsewhere in this blog, so if you’ve read it before, please skim down…)
First and foremost, according to Dr. Leslie Baumann’s Cosmetic Dermatology textbook, vitamin C and vitamin E are network antioxidants that have been found to synergistically enhance the power of one another. (When one antioxidant is depleted, it can essentially “borrow” an electron from the other antioxidant to renew itself, and vice versa).
Vitamins C and E as L-ascorbic acid and tocopheryl acetate have also been reported by Djerassi et. al. to prevent the formation of carcinogenic nitrosamines (cancerous nitrosamines).
Vitamin C and vitamin E have also been shown in this 1996 study, amongst others, to enhance the photoprotective effects of sunscreen, as vitamin C has been reported to enhance UVA protection, whereas vitamin E is more effective against UVB radiation.
Lastly, vitamin C has also been found to decrease hyperpigmentation, although a study in the International Journal of Dermatology found that 4% hydroquinone was more effective in treating melasma than vitamin C as L-ascorbic acid. However, a separate study, also in the International Journal of Dermatology, found that combination therapy of 4% hydroquinone (not in MD Skincare Hydra Pure Oil Free Moisture), vitamin C, vitamin E, and 10% glycolic acid was effective in treating signs of hyperpigmentation.
Genistein
Genistein, one of the isoflavones found naturally in soy, has been shown in independent research studies to exhibit both anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties and to stimulate the production of collagen and hyaluronic acid in human fibroblasts cultured in vitro. Altogether, this increases the firmness, elasticity, and suppleness of skin. These findings have been affirmed in this 2005 study in the journal of Photochemistry and Photobiology, which further reported that use of soy extract twice daily for two weeks reduced the number of hair follicles (dermal papillae) on the skin. It has also been reported in this 2000 study in the journal Dermatology that human trials demonstrate lightening of hyperpigmentation after use of soybean extract for two weeks.
Overall: I love it!
MD Skincare Hydra Pure Oil Free Moisture has it all: a novel technology in chelators, a plethora of established antioxidants, a hydrating texture, and soothing ingredients to boot. If only it contained sunscreen! Product rating: 8/10 (High concentration of proven ingredients: 3/3. Novel technology: 3/3. Value for the money: 2/3. Sunscreen: 0/1).
Ingredients in MD Skincare Hydra Pure Oil Free Moisture
Vitamin A, Vitamins C & E, Green Tea Extract, Phospholipids, Genistein, Aloe Vera Extract, Glycerin, Squaline, Bentonite, Ubiquinone, Dimethicone, Phospholipids, Sodium Hyaluronate, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3
Share on Facebook
Email This Post
April 4th, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Anti-Aging Treatments, Antioxidant Treatments, Dry Skin Treatments |
no comments
Earlier Posts »
