Biotin, a member of the B-vitamin family also known as vitamin H, is often recommended in formulations for the skin, hair, and nails. While biotin has no documented benefits for the skin, it is still a dermatologist’s friend because of its tremendous benefits for the hair and nails. According to Dr. Audrey Kunin, board-certified Kansas City dermatologist and founder of DERMADoctor.com, biotin deficiencies lead to hair loss and fragility, while nails become similarly fragile and brittle.
A study published in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology in 2005 found that daily supplementation of 2.5 mg biotin lead to 25% thicker nails over the course of 15 months. A second study revealed that 63% of 44 patients experienced improvements of their brittle nails after just 6 months, while 37% had no change.
It has been reported that the only supplement that can improve nail growth is biotin. It has been reported that 80% of people with brittle nails who switched to a biotin-rich diet had normal nails within a few months. For this reason, Kunin and other experts recommend taking at least 2500-3000 mcg (2.5-3.0 mg) of biotin per day. Two great products that contain biotin are DermaVite Dietary Supplement ($19.75 for 60-day supply of 600 mg/day, DermaDoctor.com) and GNC Hair, Skin, and Nails Formula with biotin and lutein for the skin ($17.99 for 60-day supply of 300 mg/day, Drugstore.com). According to Dr. Kunin, biotin is also available in brewer’s yeast, corn, barley, soybeans, walnuts, peanuts, molasses, cauliflower, milk, egg yolks, and fortified cereals.
Keep in mind that the benefits of biotin have only been shown through oral supplementation. Research has not demonstrated effects for topically applying biotin to the hair or nails, so keep that in mind before you buy anything but biotin in supplement form! 
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May 4th, 2008
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Best Products, Best Products, Edible Skincare, Product Reviews, Spotlight On... |
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Sometimes, a girl can only drink so much Gatorade. That’s why I was excited as an avid runner (and skin care enthusiast, in case you haven’t noticed ) to discover Snapple Antioxidant Water. Available in seven tasty flavors, the water includes antioxidants, vitamins, and electrolytes to replenish the body after a workout and - yes - help the skin.
Does water really have benefit for your skin?
According to Dr. David Bank, author of Beautiful Skin, the answer is yes. According to Bank, you should drink at least eight, 8-ounce glasses of water a day, although “if you are making more than one trip to the bathroom an hour, you’re probably drinking too much for…it to do your skin any good.” Good to know!
Because Snapple Antioxidant Water tastes delicious and is non-carbonated, it makes for an easy way to get in 20 ounces of your 64 ounces each day.
Does drinking antioxidants and vitamins have benefit for the skin?
Yes. In fact, a 2006 study in The Journal of Skin Pharmacology and Physiology suggests that ingesting an ingredient is more beneficial than topically applying it. However, the study also goes on to state that the best treatment is both eating and topically applying beneficial ingredients like antioxidants and vitamins.
What does the water taste like?
The water is pretty delicious. It is non-carbonated, and I haven’t tried any of the flavors I don’t like. (For the record, my favorite is Orange Starfruit, hands down.) I like to drink Snapple Antioxidant Water in place of Gatorade because it contains similar levels of electrolytes, but also has additional beneficial ingredients (see below for a chart by flavor). However, because Snapple Antioxidant Water contains calories and sugar, I only drink it in place of Gatorade, and stick with regular water and green tea the rest of the day.
What are the seven flavors? What does each contain?
- Tropical Mango and Orange Starfruit (my favorite!): Vitamins A and E, electrolytes and a complete dose of Vitamin C help protect the body against free radicals.
- Raspberry Acerola and Grape Pomegranate: Vitamins A and E, Grape Seed Extract, plus electrolytes to help keep you refreshed after an exhausting workout.
- Strawberry Acai and Dragonfruit: Vitamins A, E and B, Caffeine, Guarana, Ginseng and Ribose, plus electrolytes to keep you awake.
- Agave Melon: Vitamins A and E, plus a double dose of electrolytes assist in restoring the body after any endurance and strength activity.
Overall opinions
I love Snapple Antioxidant Water, and now drink it in place of Gatorade. It tastes great and has a plethora of beneficial antioxidants, vitamins, and electrolytes for after a workout. I give this one an enthusiastic 9/10, with a -1 just because it contains calories and sugar, and therefore shouldn’t be used in place of water, only Gatorade or sports drinks.
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April 17th, 2008
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Anti-Aging Treatments, Antioxidant Treatments, Best Products, Best Products, Edible Skincare, Product Reviews |
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Photo source: GNC.com
…Now you can, albeit modestly so. Dermatologists in South Korea have found in a placebo-controlled study that the following mixture consumed once/day reduced the appearance of crow’s feet by an average of 15% in 108 people in 12 weeks:
- vitamin C
- vitamin E
- The FDA recommends 22 IU/day (about 15 mg/day) for women, and 29 IU/day (about 20 mg/day) for lactating women, not to exceed 1500 IU/day (about 1000 mg/day).
- pycnogenol
- Recommended/upper intake limits have not yet been established.
- evening-primrose oil (shown above)
- Recommended/upper intake limits have not yet been established.
According to the April 2008 issue of Allure magazine, the pill is only available in Korea. However, “the combination blocks collagen-destroying proteins and increases collagen production…And each component is available separately and they can be taken together,” according to researcher Jin Tae Hong of Chungbuk National University, who was involved with parts of the study. Hong adds further, “Decreasing sun exposure is [still] the best way for young women to prevent wrinkles.”
If anyone tries this combination, be sure to let me know how it works out for you! Keep in mind that previous research has shown that orally ingesting antioxidants is slightly more effective than topical application of antioxidants, but that the greatest effect has been shown when antioxidants are both ingested and topically applied. So keep up the healthy diets/supplements and the skin care and the sun protection!
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March 30th, 2008
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Anti-Aging Treatments, Cosmetic Dermatology News, Edible Skincare |
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Just in time for Spring, I ran across an old Elle magazine article about sunscreen pills, which piqued my curiosity. According to the article, sunscreen supplements have been popular for the past 30 years in France and other Western European countries. How effective are sunscreen pills? Can you take one and skip the topical application? Read on to find out…
Product #1: Heliocare
One of the most popular sunscreen pills is Heliocare ($54.00 for 60, Amazon.com), which contains Polypodium leucotomos extract derived from a tropical, fern-like plant.
Clinical studies on Heliocare demonstrate that Polypodium leucotomos extract protects against UV damage to the skin, decreases UVA-induced damage, prevents acute sunburn, and prevents Langerhans cell depletion upon UV exposure. One critique of these studies is given by Mayo Clinic dermatologist Lawrence Gibson, M.D., who says that “these trials were too small to have detected any possible side effects — meaning that the long-term safety of these extracts is still in question.”
Still, the results seem to be sound, and as Dr. Gibson allows, “this supplement is meant to be used in conjunction with — and not in place of — other sun protection measures, such as wearing sunscreen or protective clothing when outside.” If you wear sunscreen and sun-protective clothing already, I have not read any reason not to go the extra mile and take Heliocare if you can afford it.
Product #2: Zeaxanthin-containing products
Zeaxanthin is a carotenoid like lycopene and lutein, and is found in human blood and tissues. However, unlike beta-carotene, zeaxanthin does not contribute to vitamin A supply. According to The International Journal for Vitamin and Nutrition Research, zeaxanthin is an efficient antioxidant, and thus “may contribute to the prevention of light-exposed tissue, skin and eyes, from light-induced damage.”
Zeaxanthin-containing products have been found to decrease UVB-induced hyperproliferation and acute inflammation in hairless mice, according to a study in the Journal of Investigative Dermatology. According to a 2007 double-blind, placebo-controlled human study, daily oral administration of zeaxanthin and lutein significantly decreases the number of sunburned cells after UV exposure. A third study, this in The Journal of Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, suggests that ingesting and topically applying zeaxanthin and lutein is more beneficial than oral ingestion alone. The study, conducted by Mavi Cosmetics in Italy, demonstrated that either the oral supplement (0.6 mg zeaxanthin and 10 mg lutein) or the zeaxanthin-lutein cream improved skin elasticity, hydration, and protection against sun damage. However, the combination of oral and topical formulations boosted numbers the most — skin hydration by 60 percent and protection against sunburn by 20 percent.
Xeaxanthin and lutein results differ from another carotenoid, beta-carotene, which was found in a 2003 study in Archives of Dermatology to be significantly less effective than a broad-spectrum UVA/UVB sunscreen at reducing the occurrence of solar keratoses in adults in a subtropical environment.
So why are zeaxanthin and lutein packaged together in many products sold for the eyes? Two reasons: One, zeaxanthin and lutein are responsible for the yellow color of the macula lutea, which protects against light-dependent damage. Two, epidemiological studies provide evidence that an increased consumption of lutein is associated with a lowered risk for age-related macular degeneration, a disease with increasing incidence in the elderly. As such, even though the product is packaged for the eyes, it seems to help protect against sun damage as well, although it is likely a supplementation and not a substitute for sunscreen and sun-protective clothing.
Product #3: Murad Pomphenol Supplement
The third supplement, Murad Pomphenol Sunguard Supplement ($35.00, Amazon.com) contains pomegranate extract. According to Howard Murad, M.D., the supplement boosts sun protection by 25% “from the inside out.” According to Dr. Murad, most topical moisturizer ingredients are only able to enrich the stratum corneum, the uppermost layer of the skin. By taking supplements, Murad says that the lower dermal layer can be fortified with beneficial vitamins and nutrients. Studies confirm that blood levels of nutrients can be enriched via nutritional supplements and food, including a 1988 study by Roidt et. al., which found that serum levels of ß-carotene and serum alpha-carotene were weakly correlated with food and supplement frequency intake of vitamin A, ß-carotene, and other carotenoids.
It has been proposed that pomegranates can protect against UV-induced damage in human keratinocytes, both UVA and UVB in two separate studies in the Journal of Photochemistry and Photobiology. Pomegranate extract may prevent against hyperpimgnetation as well: in this double-blind, placebo-controlled 2006 study in the Journal of Nutritional Science and Vitaminology, it was found that 100-200 mg/day of ellagic acid (a component of pomegranate extract) has an inhibitory effect on a slight pigmentation in the human skin caused by UV irradiation. The results of the Bioscience, Biotechnology and Biochemistry study suggest that the skin-whitening effect of PE was probably due to inhibition of the proliferation of melanocytes and melanin synthesis by tyrosinase in melanocytes.
For more on the effects of pomegranate extract on the skin, please click here.
The Overall Verdict & My Personal Opinion
Sunscreen pills are great! Any of the above supplements has been shown to have significant prevention against UV-induced damage. My only concern about sunscreen pills is low vitamin D production, which is common. A 2007 study from the University of Pittsburgh (my alma mater, yay) found that both black and white women in North America are “at high risk” for vitamin D insufficiencies, even when taking prenatal vitamins. According to Dr. Michael Holick, standing outside sunscreen-free between the hours of 10 A.M. and 4 P.M. for fifteen minutes a day three times a week lets the skin produce enough vitamin D for most of the year. (Expose your face, arms, hands, and back.) In addition, daily supplementation of 400 IU vitamin D with food (as it is a fat-soluble vitamin) should help. Be careful not to let total vitamin D from food and supplements exceed 50 mg or 2000 IU: although too much sun is unlikely to create an excess of vitamin D, too much vitamin D via food and supplement can lead to toxicity. Excessive vitamin D levels have been associated with nausea, vomiting, poor appetite, constipation, weakness, weight loss, and calcinosis, the deposition of calcium and phosphate in the body’s soft tissues such as the kidney. However, if you eat healthfully and reasonably, and take a 400 IU vitamin D supplement, you should be fine. Consult your physician if you have concerns.
Overall, I like to look at sunscreen pills as vitamins for skin care lovers: if you invest time and money into the best skin care products, sunscreen, and sun-protective clothing, why not go the extra mile for sunscreen pills if you can afford it and a 400 IU vitamin D supplement? Let me know your thoughts!
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March 14th, 2008
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Anti-Aging Treatments, Antioxidant Treatments, Best Products, Best Products, Edible Skincare, Quick Questions, Spotlight On..., Sunblocks, sunscreen |
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Açai Berry (AH-sa-ee), an antioxidant-packed berry, comes from the Açai palms of Central and South America. Once harvested, açai has been called the “superfruit,” as it contains 15-22% vitamin C. Recently, skin care companies have started to include açai berry in products, including Borba Age Defying Concentrate ($45.00, Amazon.com) and Fresh Sugar Açai Age-Delay Body Cream ($65.00, Amazon.com). But how effective is açai berry compared to other antioxidants? Is it worth the extra cost?
Açai is a proven potent natural antioxidant
Açai berry has been demonstrated in a 2006 study in the Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry to have significant antioxidant effects. In fact, according to the study, açai had “by far the highest oxygen radical scavenging activity of any food measured to date.” In fact, it has been suggested in the book Natural Products: Essential Resources for Human Survival that açai berry is the highest natural source of vitamin C found to date. Keep in mind, however, that CoffeeBerry, found in RevaléSkin products, is not edible and has been reported to have the highest ORAC (oxygen radical absorbance capacity) score to date. With this in mind, you may just want to eat açai berry and apply RevaléSkin products to your face.
Açai may not be a good investment in skin care products
According to dermatologist Dr. Jeannette Graf in the January 2008 issue of Allure magazine, “Topical products only contain a modest amount of açai, because a high concentration of it would stain the skin and hair.” Graf recommends to Allure skin care products that contain other antioxidants for the best result, like the aforementioned Borba Age Defying Concentrate ($45.00, Amazon.com) and Fresh Sugar Açai Age-Delay Body Cream ($65.00, Amazon.com).
As a Result…
Eat (and drink) your açai berry, but topically, apply açai berry with other antioxidants or just use other antioxidant sources altogether. According to a publication from the American Chemical Society in 2008, more research needs to be done on açai berry and similar “superfruits,” so I will write about more data (and products!) as they become available.
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February 20th, 2008
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Antioxidant Treatments, Edible Skincare, Spotlight On... |
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With so many skin care gift sets out there for Valentine’s Day, why not choose something that benefits the skin of your sweetie, a friend, or even yourself? After reviewing dozens of products, I have found the ten best products that are skin-beneficial and Valentine-worthy…(No, not cookies, they were just pretty )
Unlike most fragrances and fragranced lotions, which are loaded with low-molecular weight alcohols and only emollients (if you’re lucky), Lavanila Laboratories products contain antioxidants goji berry and kakadu plum. Although the antioxidant capacities of these ingredients have not been compared to other known antioxidants (like vitamin E, idebenone or coffee berry), it is still better than the zero antioxidant capacity of most perfumed sprays and lotions. Lavanila Laboratories products further impress with soothing willowherb, hydrating olive leaf, and pure essential oils rather than low-molecular weight, drying alcohols. Available in pure vanilla, vanilla grapefruit, and vanilla blossom, at least one of these fragrances has to appease your nose as well as it takes care of your skin.
A woman’s fragrance should be distinctive, so what better gift than to design a fragrance exclusively for her? For $100, Esens.com enables you to work with Kathleen Dreier, an experienced perfumer to design 0.25 oz (a reported nine-to-twelve month supply) of a custom, alcohol-free scent that captures her essence. If that price is too steep for you, ParfumsRally.com offers a service for $39 where it will blend your choices of 80+ fragrance notes to customize your own fragrance. For a moisturizer to use with the customized fragrance, choose a fragrance-free drugstore lotion, like Vaseline Intensive Care Lotion for Dry Skin ($20.25 for three, Amazon.com), which contains antioxidant and collagen/hyaluronic-acid producing soy extract, anti-aging retinyl palmitate, antioxidant vitamin E, and numerous hydrators (glycerin, petrolatum, dimethicone, lactic acid, to name a few). If you know uneven skin tone or age spots on the body are more of a concern, Olay Quench Body Lotion for Normal to Dry Skin ($18.64 for two, Amazon.com) contains a high concentration of niacinamide, which is also hydrating. Unfortunately, the Olay Quench lotion leaves a light trace of a scent, so be careful. One further caveat: The drugstore bottles aren’t all that presentable as gifts, so you may want to transfer the lotion into a stylish opaque lotion dispenser, like this one from Bed Bath and Beyond.
As if “Kiss Me” in the name were not enough, this lip scrub also contains a high concentration of fructose to gently exfoliate the lips, and sunflower seed oil, olive oil, sweet almond oil, mango seed butter, mineral oil, and shea butter to hydrate. Two things to keep in mind: One, Philosophy Kiss Me Exfoliating Lip Scrub is a lip treatment without sunscreen, so apply it at night and use a lip treatment with SPF during the day. Two, Philosophy Kiss Me Exfoliating Lip Scrub contains a lot of oils, so you may want to rub it on and then gently wipe it off with a soft washcloth before applying lipstick. (Otherwise, your lipstick will not stay on for as long). Other than that, though, a great hydrating sugar scrub for the lips!
4. Antioxidant-rich dark chocolate
Although all dark chocolate contains a fairly high concentration of antioxidant cocoa, Dove Dark ($25.28 for 48 bars, Amazon.com) made by Mars, Inc., contains Cocoapro cocoa, a proprietary, specially processed cocoa that contains superhigh levels of flavanols, according to Prevention magazine. One study featured in the magazine mentioned that researchers at the University of California, Davis compared the effects of 11/3 oz of high-flavanol Dove Dark chocolate with the same amount of low-flavanol dark chocolate on 10 healthy people. They found that only the Dove Dark had heart-healthy benefits: It reduced LDL oxidation and boosted antioxidant levels and HDL concentrations in the blood. Other studies have shown that the higher the Cocoapro “dose,” the higher the levels of antioxidants in the blood and the less LDL oxidation. Just watch your intake: in addition to containing fats, all chocolate contains sugar, which can add to advanced glycation endproduct formation, which, amongst other things, can harden collagen in the skin, giving the skin an overall aged appearance before its time. P.S.: Dipping fresh strawberries into melted Dove Dark makes for a tasty, vitamin C-and-antioxidant-rich treat!
Not only is this product distinctly (and I think beautifully) scented, but it contains a plethora of antioxidants (white tea, sweet orange, grape seed) and hydrators (butylene glycol, squalane, glycerin, urea, dimethicone, shea butter and sodium hyaluronate, to name a few). Slather it on after a shower to lock moisture into the skin, or put it on thickly under cotton pajamas to wake up with softer skin (unless your skin tends to break out; ask your dermatologist if you have concerns). Plus, there is free standard shipping from Origins until January 27, 2008.
Featured in this month’s In Style magazine, Spongeables are heart-shaped hypoallergenic sponges with natural glycerin and olive oil-based soap built in. Lasting for up to 10 showers, Spongeables are great to take along on vacations (most soaps provided can be drying). Although there are more moisturizing soaps available for less money (a favorite is Olay Ultra Moisture Body Wash, which contains petrolatum, niacinamide and small amounts of vitamin E and vitamin A), Spongeables are perfect little gifts for friends or the traveler in you. (One caveat: they have scents like “Peony Passion”, so you may not want to buy one for the man in your life.)
Über-romantic when paired with satin sheets (but this isn’t that kind of blog, haha), satin pillowcases help keep creases from forming on skin in the morning.
Sweet almond oil is the massage oil most commonly used by the professional masseuse, for it absorbs into the skin at a pleasant speed and hydrates without becoming too greasy. Because of the almonds used in the manufacturing process, sweet almond oil is not to be used on or by individuals with nut allergies. A common alternative for those with nut allergies is apricot kernel oil, which can be found in Nature’s Alchemy Apricot Kernel Oil 100% Pure ($16.00 for four, Amazon.com). Both sweet almond oil and Kama Sutra Massage Oil contain vitamin E, a potent antioxidant. In addition, both massage oils have a scent, so if you choose to light candles, you may wish to go with the non-scented variety. An excellent assortment of unscented soy candles is available from Lizzie Candles and Soap.
Although the ingredients aren’t stellar (the best ingredient is vitamin E, and the perfume contains drying SD-40 alcohol), the lotion is hydrating, with macadamia nut oil, glycerin, olive oil, dimethicone and shea butter, amongst other hydrators. The packaging is also adorable. (P.S.: If you prefer a larger lotion and no shower gel, a second gift set is available for $50 from Drugstore.com). A perfect gift for one of your best friends or…yes, even yourself 
Voted by men in Cosmopolitan magazine for favorite scent, this silkening body lotion contains hydrating mineral oil, avocado oil, sweet almond oil, dimethicone, urea, and acetylated lanolin alcohol, in addition, to antioxidant vitamin E. Warm Vanilla Sugar is also available in a large assortment of products, including Eau de Toilette ($18.50) and a scented candle ($17.oo) and the Signature Collection Body Cream ($9.50), of which I am not a fan (please see review).
Overall…
There are a lot of great gifts for this Valentine’s Day in the realm of skincare! Happy shopping!
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January 23rd, 2008
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Antioxidant Treatments, Best Products, Best Skincare Gifts, Dry Skin Treatments, Edible Skincare |
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In the past, I have received several e-mails asking if it was better to ingest or topically apply beneficial ingredients to the skin. While I never knew the answer, I am proud to now report that this new study in The Journal of Skin Pharmacology and Physiology suggests that eating an ingredient is more beneficial than topically applying it. However, the study further suggests that a combination of eating and topically applying ingredients to the skin may be most beneficial.
The Actual Study
In the study, conducted by Mavi Cosmetics in Italy, 40 women were split into four groups. The first group was given a supplement called FloraGlo Lutein with antioxidants (10 mg lutein and 0.6 zeaxanthin). The second group was given a topical cream with lutein and zeaxanthin. The third group was given both the supplement and the topical cream. The fourth and final group was given placebo.
After 12 weeks, it was found that either the oral supplement or the cream improved skin elasticity, hydration, and protection against sun damage. However, the combination of oral and topical formulations boosted numbers the most — skin hydration by 60 percent and protection against sunburn by 20 percent.
Some Combinations of Beneficial Ingredients in Supplements and Topical Creams
Green Tea
Green tea has been demonstrated to have potent antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-carcinogenic and photoprotective properties. (For more on green tea, please read my blog post on green tea, or this comprehensive summary of research conducted on green tea here.) Green tea is available as a beverage or a supplement by numerous brands; however, one concern in the past has always been the amount of caffeine necessary to ingest enough beneficial EGCG. Luckily, there is Dr. Brandt Skincare Anti-Oxidant Water Booster ($35, Sephora.com), in which one dropper full claims to deliver the benefits of 15 cups of green tea without the caffeine. A very concentrated source of green tea extract in a topical treatment is TOPIX Replenix Serum ($46.25, 4Derm.com) which contains 90% beneficial green tea polyphenols as the second ingredient (behind water).
Pomegranate
Pomegranate is an excellent ingredient, which does everything from inhibiting UVA-and UVB-damage to inhibiting collagen degradation to activating procollagen synthesis. (For more, read yesterday’s blog post on pomegranate.) Pomegranate is available as an ingredient in the oral supplement Murad PomphenolR Sunguard Dietary Supplement ($35.00, Murad.com) and may be enhanced with topical application in Murad Energizing Pomegranate Moisturizer SPF 15 ($32.00, Murad.com).
What are some foods that are rich in antioxidant content?
In this exciting 2006 study by the American Botanical Council, the ORAC (oxygen radical absorbance capacity) score of 27 vegetables were compared, and artichokes, beetroot, cabbage, broccoli, red chicory, red chili, and yellow pepper had the highest ORAC score. For more on foods and food preparation that are beneficial for your skin, please read this blog post.
How can I get FloraGlo Lutein?
As Pierfrancesco Morganti, professor of applied cosmetic dermatology at the University of Naples and a researcher at Mavi Cosmetics tells Allure in November 2007, “Though FloraGlo Lutein is not yet available, some other skin creams contain one or both ingredients and may be similarly effective.” He further recommends eating “leafy green vegetables and yellow and orange fruits,” which are sources of lutein and zeazanthin.
As A Result…
To get the most out of your skincare regime, it seems that a combination of oral supplements and topical formulations is best. Always remember: the skin is a sign of wellness, so what’s good for your health is ultimately good for your skin. If you have concerns, be sure you consult a physician!
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January 12th, 2008
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Edible Skincare, Quick Questions |
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Pomegranates were certainly the “it” fruit of 2007, making their presence known everywhere from the juice aisle to the department store (Murad Energizing Pomegranate Moisturizer SPF 15, $32.00). Yet, are these luscious fruits good for your skin?
Pomegranates and sun damage
Sun damage has been reported to be the number one preventable cause of skin cancer and premature skin aging. However, it has been proposed that pomegranates can protect against UV-induced damage in human keratinocytes, both UVA and UVB in two separate studies in the Journal of Photochemistry and Photobiology. From the studies, it appears that pomegranates protect against UVA-induced damage by modulating phosphorylation in cellular pathways. When left uninhibited, UVA-induced damage includes the release of oxidative species, resulting in immunosuppression, photodermatoses, photoaging and photocarcinogenesis. Pomegranates appear to protect against UVB-induced damage by inhibiting the UVB-mediated activation of MAPK and NF-κB pathways. When left uninhibited, UVB-induced damage includes inflammation and the release of oxidative species, and ultimately result in erythema, hyperplasia, hyperpigmentation, immunosuppression, photoaging and skin cancer.
Pomegranates — effects similar to retinol and peptides?!
In this 2005 study from the Journal of Ethnopharmacology, it was found that pomegranate seed oil was shown to stimulate keratinocyte (skin cell) proliferation in monolayer culture, and a mild thickening of the epidermis (without the loss of ordered differentiation) was observed in skin organ culture. Unfortunately, the same pomegranate seed oil that stimulated keratinocyte proliferation was without effect on the function of fibroblasts (the cells that produce collagen).
However, pomegranate peel extract was found to stimulate type I procollagen synthesis and inhibited matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1; interstitial collagenase) production by dermal fibroblasts. On the downside, pomegranate peel extract had no growth-supporting effect on keratinocytes.
Still, the effects are exciting - the study suggests that combined use of pomegranate seed [oil] and peel [extract] may stimulate procollagen synthesis, inhibit matrix metalloproteinases (enzymes that degrade collagen) and stimulate keratinocyte proliferation. More study clearly needs to be done comparing the degree to which pomegranate compares to the collagen-stimulating effects of retinoids and peptides, and to the MMP-inhibiting effects of retinoids.
May lighten skin when taken orally
In this double-blind, placebo-controlled 2006 study in the Journal of Nutritional Science and Vitaminology, it was found that 100-200 mg/day of ellagic acid (a component of pomegranate extract) has an inhibitory effect on a slight pigmentation in the human skin caused by UV irradiation. The effect is dose-dependent, as 100 mg/day resulted in an average 1.35% decrease in luminance to UV-exposed skin, and 200 mg/day resulted in a 1.73% decrease.
A 2005 study in the Journal of Bioscience, Biotechnology and Biochemistry with some of the same authors found that the skin-whitening effect when orally ingesting pomegranate extract as 90% ellagic acid (100 or 1000 mg/kg/day diluted in water with 10 mg/mL or 100 mg/mL, respectively) was similar to when ingesting vitamin C as L-ascorbic acid (600 mg/kg/day diluted in water with 60 mg/mL). Pomegranate extract had the additional effect of reducing the number of DOPA-positive melanocytes in the epidermis of UV-irradiated guinea pigs. The results of the Bioscience, Biotechnology and Biochemistry study suggest that the skin-whitening effect of PE was probably due to inhibition of the proliferation of melanocytes and melanin synthesis by tyrosinase in melanocytes.
May prevent skin cancer
According to this 2004 study in the International Journal of Cancer, it was suggested that topical application of pomegranate extract may possess chemopreventative activity in mice, as it proved capable of inhibiting conventional as well as novel biomarkers of TPA (tetradecanoylphorbol-13-acetate)-induced tumor promotion. Clearly, more study needs to be done on the dosage required for such preventative effects, as well as numerous human studies.
As a result…
Pomegranates are pome-great (punny, I’m sorry); these appear to have many beneficial effects for the skin, from UVA-and UVB-damage control, to matrix metalloproteinase inhibition, to procollagen synthesis, to inhibition of hyperpigmentation. A new favorite for sure — add some to your daily diet, and apply some to your skin! I’ll post when more becomes available about concentrations of ellagic acid in skincare.
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January 11th, 2008
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Antioxidant Treatments, Best Products, Edible Skincare, Spotlight On..., Sunblocks |
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