If you read my blog enough, you know that I am a diehard Skinceuticals CE Ferulic junkie. I would probably inject, inhale, and snort the $128 serum if it were possible to do so. (And yes, this is me being sarcastic, haha.) 
So imagine my surprise when I discovered that Skinceuticals has a new serum: Skinceuticals Phloretin CF ($128.00, Skinmedix.com). It’s kind-of like CE Ferulic was a Harvard grad, only to have its baby cousin Phloretin CF emerge and become a Rhodes Scholar: Phloretin CF is just that amazing. Preliminary research demonstrates that it is basically a super antioxidant that not only fights free radicals, but also protects against DNA damage and penetrates well into the skin. As said in June 2008 issue of Oprah, “Phloretin, a natural extract that’s been studied as an anticancer agent, is the newest antioxidant available topically; research has shown it can penetrate the skin and provide significant UV protection.” According to Dr. Brenton B. Koch, M.D., F.A.C.S., SkinCeuticals developed Phloretin CF after five extensive years of research. Dr. Koch elaborates in his blog, “This powerhouse formulation divides and conquers when it comes to damage at every level. Phloretin CF protects against not only free radicals, but the range of other reactive molecules known to cause damage and DNA mutations among integral cell types. In addition, it corrects existing damage by stimulating the synthesis of essential proteins and fibers and accelerating cell turnover.” Additional research in The Journal of Biological Chemistry shows that phloretin is an inhibitor of sugar transport amongst red blood cells, which holds some level of promise as to the role phloretin may play in AGE formation and the subsequent hardening of the skin’s collagen.
So how does Phloretin CF differ from CE Ferulic? Basically, Skinceuticals:
- removed all the vitamin E (1% to 0%) and 5% of the vitamin C from CE Ferulic (from 15% to 10%)
- kept the same level of ferulic acid as an antioxidant stabilizer (0.5%)
- added in 2% phloretin (from 0% to 2%)
What is exciting about this is that 2% phloretin reportedly is a very powerful antioxidant, not only fighting free radicals, but also protecting DNA from future damage and penetrating the skin in a way the ingredients in CE Ferulic were not shown to in published research. What is not exciting is that the product not only contains less vitamin C than CE Ferulic, but took out the vitamin E altogether, and vitamin C and vitamin E in combination have many well-established functions together, including prevention of the formation of carcinogenic nitrosamines and enhancing the photoprotective effects of sunscreen, as vitamin C has been reported to enhance UVA protection, whereas vitamin E is more effective against UVB radiation. Vitamin C and vitamin E are also two antioxidants that are able to “borrow” an electron to enhance one another.
So which is better? The word is still out, until some brilliant scientist decides to do a comparison study of 15% L-ascorbic acid and 0.5% vitamin E versus 10% L-ascorbic acid and 2.0% phloretin. I say, if you are a cautious person, stick to the proven CE Ferulic until more research inevitably surfaces. (And my own personal experience from doing a switch to Phloretin CF, which will be available on the blog on June 17. ) On the other hand, if you are a trendy person who likes to be the first to try new things, then I would try Phloretin CF, because it is likely that 2.0% phloretin is equally or even more effective than 0.5% vitamin E, though one cannot be sure of such a thought.
At any rate, I love Phloretin CF! Be sure to come back on June 17 (and hopefully before, haha) to get the full scoop on my personal experiences from the switch!
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June 2nd, 2008
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futurederm |
Anti-Aging Treatments, Antioxidant Treatments, Best Products, Best Products, Cosmetic Dermatology News, Firming Treatments, Hyperpigmentation Treatments, Product Reviews |
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Ah, just when I think I’ve heard it all, I run across MaMa Lotion ($44.50, Cosmeticville.com). A dermatological-grade potent combination of 20% unique alpha hydroxy acids (10% mandelic acid, 10% malic acid), MaMa Lotion has what it takes to become a new regular in my skin care line-up, reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, freckles, acne blemishes, acne scarring, hyperpigmentation, enlarged pores, melasma, ingrown hairs, and rough skin.
One of the main ingredients in MaMa Lotion, mandelic acid, is an alpha hydroxy acid derived from almonds. According to research published in the journal Tetrahedron, mandelic acid is a potent antioxidant, preventing skin lipid peroxidation when applied topically. A review in Clinics in Dermatology further affirms that mandelic acid is an AHA tat is able to treat signs of photoaging (including skin roughness and fine lines). Interestingly enough, mandelic acid is also used at 0.5% in antimicrobial solutions as an activating solution for 0.1% sodium chlorite.
Malic acid (hydroxybutanedioic acid) is an alpha hydroxy acid that is found naturally in apples. In the Journal of Dermatology, a published study found that a combination of malic acid and glycolic acid increased cell proliferation and functional activation of fibroblasts, indicating that the ingredient is effective in stimulating collagen production. Although it has been reported in the International Journal of Skin Science that malic acid is somewhat less effective than the alpha hydroxy acids glycolic acid and lactic acid, in combination with other AHAs (like the mandelic acid in MaMa Lotion), malic acid has been reported to have great efficacy in treating skin roughness, fine lines, and hyperpigmentation. Unlike the other AHAs, malic acid has also been demonstrated to have some level of anti-microbial activity, as reported in The American Journal of Enology and Viticulture.
Skin following 1 month treatment with MaMa Lotion.
MaMa Lotion is a very strong and effective product, with 20% AHAs and a pH of 2.5. For this reason, special instructions are necessary for those using MaMa Lotion; namely, MaMa Lotion should not be used more than twice a week for the first few weeks, and usage can then be increased to every other day or everyday, depending on the skin’s tolerance of the product. A gentle, broad-spectrum sunscreen, like LaRoche Posay, should be used everyday in conjunction with the product, and other products with AHAs, retinol, and the sun should be avoided. Those with darker skin should additionally consult this page for further instructions.
Although MaMa Lotion goes on very thick, it absorbs into the skin within 10-15 minutes, leaving the skin extremely smooth. The treatment can also be used on rough areas like the knees, elbows, and feet (with appropriate sun protection on these areas, of course!) With that said, I love MaMa Lotion. Although the very potent product does need to be used with caution, when used properly and in conjunction with proper sun protection, it really gives skin a fantastic glow! Product rating: 9.5/10. (High concentration of effective ingredients: 3+/3. New technology or unique formulation: 3/3. Value for the money: 3/3. Sunscreen: 0.5/1; there is no sunscreen in this product, but it should only be used at night anyway, so it is only a 0.5 deduction).
If you would like to try MaMa Lotion, Cosmeticville.com is currently giving away a free sample of MaMa lotion with any purchase! In the comments box at checkout, put - MaMa Lotion Sample. For more information, please visit Cosmeticville.com.
Water, Mandelic Acid, Malic Acid, Algae Extract, Polyacrylamide, Potassium Hydroxide, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Ubiquinone, Dimethicone, Cyclomethicone, Fragrance, Squalane, Laureth-7, Tetrasodium EDTA, Isopropylparaben, Isobutylparaben and Butylparaben.
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June 2nd, 2008
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futurederm |
Acne Treatments, Anti-Aging Treatments, Best Products, Best Products, Best Skincare Gifts, Firming Treatments, Hyperpigmentation Treatments, Offers and Promotions, Pore Size Treatments, Product Reviews, Special Offers, Wrinkle Treatments |
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For all mothers do every day of the year, there’s nothing better than giving Mom some luxury and comfort for Mother’s Day. And, in my personal opinion, nothing says luxury and comfort like thoughtful skin care. Here are some really special finds online that fit the bill perfectly:
1. Create a free website for Mom on Your Mom’s Philosophy.com. On Your Mom’s Philosophy.com, you can create a site about your mom and share your favorite stories, pictures, and videos - all for free. Other visitors will rate your page, and if yours is one of the top 20 ranked sites, your page will be featured on Philosophy.com on Mother’s Day as a finalist. From the 20 finalists, online voters will select one to receive the grand prize, a philosophy gift basket valued at $250. As an added bonus, everyone who creates a page will have a chance to win a $1200 shopping spree on Philosophy.com. I truly love this idea!
And, of course, philosophy has excellent Mother’s Day gift sets too. One of my favorites is the philosophy Amazing Grace Deluxe Gift Set ($85.00, Drugstore.com). For $85, the set includes an 8 oz. 3-in-1 shower gel, an 8 oz conditioner, an 8 oz body emulsion, a 4 oz hand cream, and a 2 oz fragrance. Best of all, the set features the peace-inducing Amazing Grace motto: How you climb the mountain is just as important as how you get down the mountain, and so, as it is with life, for which so many of us becomes one big gigantic test followed by one big gigantic lesson. In the end, it all comes down to one word: grace. it’s how you accept winning and losing, good luck and bad luck, the darkness and the light. So true - and so “Mom”.
2. Protect Mom’s skin with Celazome Serum Vitae for day ($54.00, SkinStore.com). Although my favorite skin serum is still Skinceuticals CE Ferulic, Celazome Serum Vitae is making a strong case for itself, with a high concentration of magnesium ascorbyl palmitate (a more stable form of vitamin C than in CE Ferulic) and vitamin E, plus anti-aging retinol, soothing aloe and lavender, and hydrating dimethicone and hyaluronic acid. Dr. Leslie Baumann even recommends it on her blog as a “top 5 spring skin care product.” To save money, sign up at eBates.com for free before you buy, and receive 8% cash back on your purchase, plus $10 bonus if you sign up before May 31, 2008!
I say this product is great for day because it contains vitamins C and E. which have been shown to enhance the effects of sunscreen. However, retinol can make the skin photosensitive, so if you use this product during the day, be sure to use it under a compatible moisturizer with sunscreen.
3. …and Lindi Face Serum for night ($40.00, LindiSkin.net). Available in lavender and citrus scents, Lindi Skin Face Serum contains a very high concentration of astaxanthin extract, a potent antioxidant. It also contains a high concentration of soybean oil, antioxidant vitamin E in two forms, hydrating ceramide 2, collagen-stimulating palmitoyl oligopeptide and ascorbyl palmitate, and soothing aloe. Despite the plethora of ingredients, Lindi Skin products are reportedly very gentle for the skin, as they are developed by a team of scientists for cancer patients undergoing radiation therapy and chemotherapy, who often experience nausea from skin care products due to scent, irritation, and even inflammation or stinging.
4. Give Mom sophisticated luxury with John Varvatos eau de parfum ($67.28, Amazon.com). I recently tried this perfume, and someone gave me the perfect term to describe it: “Mature.” A rich ambery floral with “fruity nuances”, it is definitely a scent for a sophisticated woman. According to the scent’s website, it product exudes “warmth, delicacy, elegance and sensuality.” New for the Spring, it’s one for the sophisticate for sure.
Here’s to great skin for Mom for Mother’s Day! Be sure to share some of your favorite Mother’s Day gift ideas too!
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May 2nd, 2008
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futurederm |
Anti-Aging Treatments, Antioxidant Treatments, Best Products, Best Products, Best Skincare Gifts, Cosmetic Dermatology News, Dry Skin Treatments, Firming Treatments, Hyperpigmentation Treatments, Product Reviews, Quick Questions, Special Offers, Spotlight On..., Wrinkle Treatments |
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Image source: Milwent.com
Crow’s feet are amongst the most complained about wrinkles on a patient’s face. And for good reason: “Crow’s-feet are usually the earliest wrinkles to appear on a woman’s face,” says dermatologist Debra Price, M.D., clinical assistant professor of dermatology at the University of Miami School of Medicine and a dermatologist in South Miami. So what to do about crow’s feet?
Take an aggressive approach at home.
To quote Meg Ryan in You’ve Got Mail, “Fight, fight, fight!” Start each day off with a multivitamin that contains vitamin C and linoleic acid, which has been recently reported in a study amongst 4000 women to reduce wrinkles. Next, apply an antioxidant serum and sunscreen or moisturizer with sunscreen, concentrating on the area around your eyes. Be careful that the formulations are tolerated well around the delicate eye area. My well-touted favorites are Skinceuticals CE Ferulic ($107.00, Amazon.com) and NIA 24 Physical Sunscreen SPF 30 ($42.95, Amazon.com), but I also love the new Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Dry Touch Sunscreen SPF 85 ($8.99, Drugstore.com) for ultima supremo sun protection (the most photostable out there, according to some reports). During the day, Dr. Perricone also recommends that you eat a diet rich in fruits and vegetables (for antioxidant activity), salmon (for omega-3s), healthy fats (think almonds and olive oil), and full of water and green or white tea to keep skin glowing. After all, nutrition and skin care together have better results than skin care alone.
At night, use a retinoid cream, followed by a moisturizer with DMAE, niacinamide, or antioxidants, provided your skin can tolerate it. The retinoid treatment is easier to choose: there is 0.5% retinol in Skinceuticals Retinol 0.5 ($32.95, Amazon.com), 0.6% retinol in Green Cream Level 6 ($42.95, Amazon.com) 0.9% retinol in Green Cream Level 9 ($49.95, Amazon.com), and 1.0% retinol in Skinceuticals Retinol 1.0 ($52.00, Amazon.com). You may want to start with a lesser concentration of retinol, applied every 2-3 nights, and gradually work up to nightly use.
As for a nightly moisturizer, Dr. Nicholas Perricone recommends using DMAE, which has been found and reported in two independent studies in The Textbook of Cosmetic Dermatology and Skin Research and Dermatology to significantly firm skin in the undereye area. A product with a high concentration of DMAE is NV Perricone Vitamin C Ester Amine Face Lift ($95.00, Sephora.com), and another designed for around the eyes with slightly less DMAE is NV Perricone Advanced Eye Area Therapy ($95.00, Sephora.com). (P.S.: Free shipping is also available for a limited time on orders of $50 or more from Sephora with the code SHIPPING50 at checkout!)
If DMAE is too harsh for your skin, niacinamide and antioxidants have also been found to have beneficial effects against wrinkles, in various studies. My favorite moisturizer with niacinamide is Olay Regenerist, while my favorite antioxidant moisturizer is RevaléSkin Night Cream.
Once a week, in lieu of your usual nightly routine, use a glycolic acid treatment, provided again that your skin can handle it. (Consult your dermatologist if you are unsure.) Two of my favorite glycolic acid peels are MD Skincare: Dr. Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Daily Face Peel ($75.00 for a thirty-day supply, Sephora.com) and Peter Thomas Roth UnWrinkle Peel Pads ($45.00, Amazon.com). Click here for a full review of the Dr. Dennis Gross peel; click here for a review of the Peter Thomas Roth Un-Wrinkle Peel Pads.
Then go see your dermatologist to look even better.
In the Journal of Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery, amongst many other sources, Botox injections have been found to make a dramatic difference in wrinkles. According to Dr. Jeffrey Benabio, M.D., in this month’s Oprah magazine, Botox injections partially paralyze the orbicularis orbis muscle to prevent it from contracting, which causes further wrinkling (and shows off the wrinkles you already have).
Benabio also recommends injectable fillers, like Restylane, to fill up the lines. Injections generally last 6-12 months, and are usually redone every 6 months. The cost is generally upwards of $500 per injection, but this varies by practitioner.
Last but not least, Benabio recommends dermatologist-strength chemical peels and lasers to stimulate collagen production, keeping the skin firm and crow’s feet production down in the future.
Yes, you can do it!
Always keep in mind that dermatology today is a lot more powerful than in years past. You can improve and prevent wrinkles, but, like everything else, it takes time, patience, knowledge, funds, and dedication.
Let me know what works for you! I love hearing feedback!
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April 23rd, 2008
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futurederm |
Anti-Aging Treatments, Antioxidant Treatments, Best Products, Best Products, Eye Creams, Firming Treatments, General Cosmetic Dermatology, How to Get Rid of..., Spotlight On..., Wrinkle Treatments |
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According to New Jersey plastic surgeon Dr. Sam Rizk, M.D., in an interview in this week’s Star, there are several differences between ablative and non-ablative lasers:
Ablative Lasers
- Also called: Erbium, CO2
- Treatments needed: 1
- Used for: Wrinkle reduction, tissue tightening
- Relative downtime: Significant. Up to 10 days post-treatment.
Non-Ablative Lasers
- Also called: Fraxel, Affirm
- Treatments needed: Several. Number varies; usually at least 3.
- Used for: Sun damage, skin texture and discoloration treatment.
- Relative downtime: Not significant.
One note of caution
According to renowned dermatologist Dr. Jeannette Graf, M.D., in the April 2008 issue of Allure magazine, “Lasers [are the most overhyped anti-aging treatment] - particularly the new radio frequency machines such as Fraxel and Thermage. There’s a small percentage of people who do well with them, but there’s a huge percentage for whom they do nothing.” Thankfully, lasers are (for now) only administered by licensed professionals, so speak to your dermatologist or plastic surgeon to see if you a good candidate for any laser procedure.
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March 22nd, 2008
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futurederm |
Anti-Aging Treatments, Cosmetic Dermatology News, Firming Treatments, Hyperpigmentation Treatments, Laser Treatments, Quick Questions |
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Are you a recovered sugar-addict who has regrets about her candy-coatedd past? Or do you still indulge in the sweet stuff and worry about what it could be doing to your skin? (Thanks to the existence of Tootsie Roll Pops, I admit to being in the latter category). Well, fear no more. Although excess sugar consumption leads to advanced glycation endproduct formation and hardened collagen, shu uemura Phyto-Black Lifting Anti-Wrinkle Essence ($95.00, Nordstrom.com) helps to prevent this process, and additionally firms skin by stimulating the production of collagen and glycosaminoglycans (GAGs).
What exactly does shu uemura Phyto-Black Lift do for the skin?
shu uemura Phyto-Black Lifting Anti-Wrinkle Essence is one of several L’Oréal company products to contain xylose (also known as Pro-XylaneTM), which reduces lines and wrinkles by boosting the production of collagen and glycosaminoglycans (GAGs) within the skin. Glycosaminoglycans are found primarily in the dermis of the skin. The major purpose of GAGs is to defend against water loss, as they bind large quantities of water, up to 1000 times their volume. For this reason, GAGs are also known as “natural moisturizing factors,” or NMFs (for more, see here). Most studies show that GAGs, such as hyaluronic acid and dermatan sulfate decrease with age; however, some studies found no change in the amount of GAGs in aged skin. If in fact the majority of research is correct and GAGs do in fact decrease in aged skin, then changes in skin due to loss of GAGs may include decreased elasticity, decreased turgidity, and wrinkling. According to the October 2007 issue of Allure magazine, L’Oréal scientists found that when xylose was applied to the skin, the skin held more moisture, stimulated collagen production, and generated the production of new GAGs within the skin. (For even more on xylose, click here.)
shu uemura Phyto-Black Lifting Anti-Wrinkle Essence is distinct from other products containing xylose because it takes the fight against aged collagen one step further with the inclusion of black tea. Black tea has been found in this study to prevent glycation-produced cross-linking of collagen in the aorta of rats, and has also been shown in this study to be protective against UVB-induced photodamage in mice. According to a company release I was mailed, the type of black tea extract used in the line is kombucha, a Japanese black tea that has been consumed for over 2000 years.
Finally, shu uemura Phyto-Black Lifting Anti-Wrinkle Essence treats age spots with the inclusion of molasses extract. Molasses extract has been found to inhibit the enzyme that is responsible for age spots, as Dr. David H. McDaniel, director of the Institute of Anti-Aging in Virginia Beach, states in the December 2007 issue of Allure magazine: “…shu uemura Phyto-Black Lifting Anti-Wrinkle Essence targets the discoloration that comes with aging.”
What do the experts say?
As Dr. David H. McDaniel states in Allure magazine, “It hits on a lot of the key things that are important for anti-aging, such as stimulating collagen and GAGs. What extends it from being just a wrinkle cream is that it also targets the discoloration that comes with aging.”
What do people who have tried it say?
After trying shu uemura Phyto-Black Lifting Anti-Wrinkle Essence, I find it to have a milky texture and slight scent. It drinks into the skin and absorbs quickly. Immediately after application, skin feels smooth and soft. The micro-silica in the product also helps to reflect the light and create the illusion of smoother skin sooner.
According to Hannah Morrill for the same article in in Allure, “It felt smooth and cool, and after three weeks the freckles on our nose and the lines on our forehead are less visible.”
What other products are available in the shu uemura Phyto-Black Lift line?
There are three other products in the shu uemura Phyto-Black Lift line. The company advises to buy three of the four products and use them in a specific order.
The first is shu uemura Phyto Black Lift Radiance Boosting Lotion ($45.00, Nordstrom.com), which the company advises to be used before the shu uemura Phyto-Black Lifting Anti-Wrinkle Essence. It contains alpha hydroxy acids and fruit extracts to “prepare the skin.”
The second step is the shu uemura Phyto-Black Lifting Anti-Wrinkle Essence, reviewed above.
The third step is either the shu uemura Phyto Black Lift Firming Anti-Wrinkle Cream (for normal to dry skin) or shu uemura Phyto Black Lift Smoothing Wrinkle Emulsion (for normal to oily skin). shu uemura Phyto Black Lift Firming Anti-Wrinkle Cream for normal to oily skin contains a lipid compound that is highly moisturizing, in addition to the Pro-XylaneTM, black tea, and molasses extract found in shu uemura Phyto-Black Lifting Anti-Wrinkle Essence. shu uemura Phyto Black Lift Smoothing Wrinkle Emulsion contains ginkgo biloba instead of lipids, so as to not over-moisturize oily skin. According to a 1997 study in Skin Pharmacology, ginkgo biloba increases collagen production of human skin fibroblasts in vitro, and additionally assists in reducing skin inflammation.
Personal Opinions
As far as anti-aging skin care goes, there seems to be the most research in favor of sunscreen, antioxidants, and retinoids. However, firming ingredients like xylane (in this line), DMAE, and wheat protein are appearing in a multitude of different products. If you eat right, exercise, wear sunscreen, use antioxidants & retinoids and still have concerns about facial firmness, then, based on what I have read, I think shu uemura Phyto-Black Lifting Anti-Wrinkle Essence can help with firming the skin somewhat and preventing collagen loss down the road.
Personally, I like the idea of using shu uemura Phyto-Black Lifting Anti-Wrinkle Essence because I have a bit of a sweet tooth and wouldn’t mind being able to prevent some advanced glycation endproducts from forming. However, I personally wouldn’t find it necessary to buy the whole line (again, this is just a personal opinion). I would choose the Radiance Boosting Lotion if I most wanted the exfoliating benefits of a light AHA treatment, the Lifting Anti-Wrinkle Essence if I were most concerned with age spots, the Anti-Wrinkle Cream if my skin were dry, and the Smoothing Wrinkle Emulsion if my skin were sensitive.
Overall, I love the whole line, and I give it a solid 9/10 (-1 for no sunscreen in any of the products!)
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March 15th, 2008
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futurederm |
Anti-Aging Treatments, Best Products, Best Products, Firming Treatments, Hyperpigmentation Treatments, Product Reviews |
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Recently, Johnson & Johnson released the new Aveeno Active Naturals Positively AgelessTM Lifting & Firming line, which has a Daily Moisturizer with SPF 30, a Night Cream, and an Eye Cream. The “secrets” in the formulations are wheat protein and shittake mushrooms, which the company say are to firm and rejuvenate skin, respectively. But how effective is the Aveeno Active Naturals Positively AgelessTM Lifting & Firming line? FutureDerm investigates…
Shittake Mushrooms and Skin Rejuvenation
According to the product website, shittake mushrooms are “long believed to enhance vitality and slow aging.” Although shittake mushrooms are the most scientifically studied mushrooms, the research on shittake mushrooms slowing aging is very limited compared to skin care ingredients like retinoids or even sirtuins. Still, according to this 2000 journal article, shittake mushrooms have been found to secrete a substance called lentinan that stimulates the body’s immune system and eliminates some viruses. Shittake mushrooms are even labeled an “anticancer” drug by the Japanese FDA.
At this time, due to the limited research showing anti-aging effects of shittake mushrooms on skin, I personally would not buy an anti-aging product just because it contains shittake mushrooms. However, shittake mushrooms certainly have shown promise in stimulating the immune system and as anti-bacterial and anti-viral agents, so I would not be surprised if shittake mushrooms are later shown to have beneficial effects for the skin. I present the information….the call on this one is yours.
Wheat Protein and Skin Firmness
According to the textbook Conditioning Agents for Hair and Skin, a study by Henkel Laboratories found that 1.5% active wheat protein has been shown to increase skin moisturization by 20%. In typical concentrations in skin care formulations, wheat protein combats the effects of drying detergents on the skin via its protective colloidal film-forming property. Most exciting, however, is the research that states that just 0.1% palmitoyl hydrolyzed wheat protein has been shown to stimulate protein synthesis and increase collagen cross-linking of human keratinocytes similar to vitamin C in vitro (i.e., in culture). In vivo, palmitoyl hydrolyzed wheat protein has been shown to soothe the skin. The only unfortunate part of this is that the research was demonstrated when wheat protein was attached to a palmitoyl fatty acid, which may improve the ingredient’s penetration into the skin somewhat.
As far as firming the skin goes, wheat protein is already used to firm your hair: wheat protein consists of fatty quarternary complexes with cysteine residues that are used to covalently bond to the disulfide bonds present in the hair after a permanent hair treatment (a “perm”). Whether wheat protein binds covalently to the skin, to what degree, and for how long, is questionable.
Any direct studies on the moisturizers?
The studies are from the company, and information on the studies is not publicly available (i.e., number of subjects; placebo-controlled; double-blind; multi-center; etc.) Although the information is limited, the results are shown under the review of each product below.
Aveeno Active Naturals Positively Ageless Lifting and Firming Night Cream
Aveeno Active Naturals Positively AgelessTM Lifting & Firming Night Cream ($19.99, CVS.com) is my favorite product in the line. The night cream contains wheat protein to firm the skin and shittake mushroom in fair concentrations, plus a plethora of hydrating ingredients (glycerin, dimethicone, cetyl alcohol, butylene glycol, shea butter, hydrolyzed wheat protein, and several others!)
In addition, the cream also contains hydrolyzed soy flour, which is beneficial for the skin. According to Paula Begoun, author of Don’t Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me, one isoflavone contained in soy is genistein, which has been shown in independent research studies to exhibit both anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, to stimulate the production of collagen and hyaluronic acid in human fibroblasts cultured in vitro, to reduce the number of hair follicles (dermal papillae) on the skin after twice-daily use for two weeks, and to improve hyperpigmentation. Unfortunately, soy is found in lower concentration in this product than other Johnson & Johnson winners, like Neutrogena Anti Oxidant Age Reverse Eye Cream ($16.95, Amazon.com).
Another ingredient is glycolic acid. Although found in low concentration, the glycolic acid found in the product should still help to smooth the skin, accelerate the rate of cell turnover somewhat (which is reduced by up to 7% every ten years in normal skin aging), decrease small wrinkles and increase the fibroblast proliferation of collagen.
One study (results depicted below) by Johnson and Johnson shows that eight weeks’ of use of Aveeno Active Naturals Positively AgelessTM Lifting & Firming Night Cream lifts skin in about 75% of subjects, contours the jaw line in about 92%, combats wrinkles on the neck in about 90%, and increases firmness and elasticity in about 95%.
For a free sample and a $1.50 off coupon, please click here.
Ingredients in Aveeno Active Naturals Positively AgelessTM Lifting & Firming Night Cream
Water, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Tetrahydroxypropyl Ethylenediamine, Cetyl Alcohol, Butylene Glycol, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, PPG 2 Myristyl Ether Propionate, Squalane, Cyclohexasiloxane, Stearyl Heptanoate, Glyceryl Stearate, Polyacrylamide, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Ganoderma Lucidum Stem Extract (Mushroom), Hydrolyzed Soy Flour, Mauritia Flexuosa Fruit Oil, Algae Extract, Copper Gluconate, Lentinus Edodes Extract, Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Phenoxyethanol, PEG 75 Stearate, Glycolic Acid, Stearyl Caprylate, C13 14 Isoparaffin, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer, Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate, Methylparaben, Fragrance, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ceteth 20, Steareth 20, Ethylparaben, Propylparaben, CyclopentaSiloxane, Laureth 7, Allantoin, Zinc Gluconate, Magnesium Aspartate
Aveeno Active Naturals Positively Ageless Lifting and Firming Daily Moisturizer
Aveeno Active Naturals Positively Ageless Lifting and Firming Daily Moisturizer ($19.99, Drugstore.com) is surprisingly my least favorite product in the line. It contains wheat protein to firm and hydrate, additional hydrating ingredients, shittake mushroom, sunscreen, and not much else, unlike the night cream, which contained a couple of additional well-established anti-aging ingredients (soy, copper gluconate, and even a bit of glycolic acid).
A study by Johnson and Johnson shows about 70% of women saw results after using Aveeno Active Naturals Positively AgelessTM Lifting & Firming Daily Moisturizer SPF 30. Results reported included improvement in elasticity, skin firmness, reduction in fine lines and wrinkles, and helping skin look younger. (I personally am not thrilled with these results; similar percentages of satisfaction have been reported for well-packaged placebo products.)
Ingredients in Aveeno Active Naturals Positively Ageless Lifting and Firming Daily MoisturizerActive Ingredients: Avobenzone (3%, Sunscreen), Homosalate (12%, Susncreen), Octisalate (5%, Susncreen), Octocrylene (1.7%, Sunscreen), Oxybenzone (3%, Sunscreen)
Inactive Ingredients: Acrylates/C10 30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Algae Extract, Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate, Arachidyl Alcohol, Arachidyl Glucoside, Behenyl Alcohol, Benzalkonium Chloride, Boron Nitride, C12 15 Alkyl Benzoate, C13 14 Isoparaffin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Citric Acid, CyclopentaSiloxane, Diethylhexyl 2,6-Naphthalate, Dimethicone, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Disodium EDTA, Ethylparaben, Fragrance, Ganoderma Lucidum Stem Extract (Mushroom), Glycerin, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Laureth 7, Lentinus Edodes Extract, Methylparaben, Methylparaben Pentaerythrityl Tetradibutyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Phenoxyethanol Polyacrylamide, Propylparaben, Silica, Sodium Hydroxide, Steareth 2, Steareth 21, Tetrahydroxypropyl Ethylenediamine, Water
Aveeno Active Naturals Positively Ageless Lifting and Firming Eye Cream
Aveeno Active Naturals Positively Ageless Lifting and Firming Eye Cream ($19.99, Drugstore.com) contains a very low concentration of shittake mushroom extract. However, there are also numerous hydrators, and, of course, hydrolyzed wheat protein.
After two weeks’ of twice-daily personal use, the skin under my eyes feels firmer, but not puffy. I have faint fine lines under my eyes, and for these, there has been no improvement. I do not have dark circles since I started to use retinol and vitamin K treatments, so I cannot assess improvement in this area.
A study (results depicted below) by Johnson and Johnson shows that eight weeks’ use of Aveeno Active Naturals Positively AgelessTM Lifting & Firming Eye Cream resulted in nearly 100% of subjects reporting an increase in firmness, about 92% reporting a decrease in fine lines and improvement in skin dryness and dark circles, and 60-70% reporting improvement in coarse wrinkles and an overall lifted appearance.
Ingredients
Water, CyclopentaSiloxane, Glycerin, Methylheptyl Isostearate, Tetrahydroxypropyl Ethylenediamine, Butylene Glycol, Cetyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Steareth 20, C12 15 Alkyl Benzoate, Glyceryl Stearate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Triisostearin, Squalane, Cetyl Esters, Myristyl Alcohol, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Cocoglycerides, Ceteth 2, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Glyceryl Laurate, Stearyl Alcohol, Bentonite, Glyceryl Behenate, DMDM Hydantoin, Methylparaben, Saccharomyces Lysate Extract, Silica, Sodium Methylesculetin Acetate, Distearyl Ether, Fragrance, Picea Excelsa Bud Extract, Propylparaben, Polysorbate 60, Tyrosine, Ethylparaben, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Ganoderma Lucidum Stem Extract (Mushroom), Algae Extract, Lentinus Edodes Extract, Titanium Dioxide, Mica, May also contain: Citric Acid
Overall opinions…
If you are concerned with your skin’s laxity, I would recommend Aveeno Active Naturals Positively AgelessTM Lifting & Firming Night Cream for its proven ability to firm the skin and additional proven anti-aging ingredients, and Aveeno Active Naturals Positively Ageless Lifting and Firming Eye Cream for its proven ability to firm the skin. Although I love products with sunscreen, I would not recommend Aveeno Active Naturals Positively Ageless Lifting and Firming Daily Moisturizer, as it does not contain anti-aging ingredients other than wheat protein and shittake mushroom, and did not perform exceptionally well in the clinical trials shown above.
At any rate, a new way to improve your skin’s firmness! :-) For a free sample of Aveeno Active Naturals Positively AgelessTM Lifting & Firming Night Cream and a $1.50 off coupon, please click here.
Product Rating (Aveeno Active Naturals Positively AgelessTM Lifting & Firming Night Cream): 9.5/10 (-0.5 for no sunscreen, and this is only a -0.5 because it was designed for night.)
Product Rating (Aveeno Active Naturals Positively Ageless Lifting and Firming Daily Moisturizer): 7/10 (-1 for only wheat protein and shittake mushroom as anti-aging ingredients, -0.5 for relatively low concentration of these ingredients, -0.5 for lowest overall improvement from studies above)
Product Rating (Aveeno Active Naturals Positively Ageless Lifting and Firming Eye Cream): 7.5/10 (-1 for no sunscreen, -1 for only wheat protein and shittake mushroom as anti-aging ingredients, -0.5 for relatively low concentration of these ingredients) - a relatively low ranking, but I still recommend it!
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March 14th, 2008
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futurederm |
Anti-Aging Treatments, Best Products, Best Products, Firming Treatments, Product Reviews |
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…There’s a new player in town. (And ok, I know that they are both owned by the same company, but let’s pretend there’s a competition for the sake of effect here! :-)) Garnier Nutritioniste Ultra Lift Anti-Wrinkle Firming Moisture Cream ($13.99, Drugstore.com) contains Xylose, which is called Pro-XylaneTM in L’Oréal Skin Genesis. Xylose aims to reduce lines and wrinkles by boosting the production of glycoaminoglycans (GAGs) within the skin. According to the October 2007 issue of Allure magazine, L’Oréal scientists found that when xylose was applied to the skin, the skin held more moisture, stimulated collagen production, and generated the production of new GAGs within the skin. (For more on xylose, click here.)
Yet what is really exciting about Garnier Nutritioniste Ultra Lift Anti-Wrinkle Firming Moisture Cream is the fact that it contains two other proven anti-aging ingredients not found in L’Oréal Skin Genesis: retinyl palmitate and soybean protein. According to a 1997 study in the Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 0.6% retinyl palmitate is less effective in penetrating human skin than 0.025% retinol (these concentrations are similar to those found in many over-the-counter skincare formulations). However, even though retinyl palmitate is less potent than retinol, it has been shown to exhibit the collagen-stimulating, smoothing, and wrinkle-reducing properties of retinol over time, and has also been shown to be less irritating, which is probably the reason for its common use in skin care products.
As for soy, one isoflavone contained in soy is genistein, which has been shown in independent research studies to exhibit both anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, to stimulate the production of collagen and hyaluronic acid in human fibroblasts cultured in vitro, to reduce the number of hair follicles (dermal papillae) on the skin and to improve hyperpigmentation after twice-daily use for two weeks.
The verdict: I’m loving it! I can’t wait until L’Oréal decides to outdo itself again.
Ingredients in Garnier Nutritioniste Ultra Lift Anti-Wrinkle Firming Moisture Cream
Aqua (Water), CyclopentaSiloxane, Cyclohexasiloxane, Glycerin, Stearic Acid, Palmitic Acid, PEG 100 Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Isohexadecane, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Retinyl Palmitate, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Rosa Canina Fruit Oil, Fagus Sylvatica Extract, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Protein, Hydrated Silica, Vaccinium Myrtillus Extract, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), C13-14 Isoparaffin, Carnauba Wax, Cera Alba (Beeswax), Cetyl Alcohol, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Extract, Laureth 7, Lecithin, Myristic Acid, Myristyl Alcohol, Octyldodecanol, Passiflora Edulis Seed Oil, PEG 20 Stearate, Phenethyl Alcohol, Poloxamer 188, Polyacrylamide, Polycaprolactone, Propylene Glycol, Shorea Robusta Seed Butter, Sodium Dehyroacetate, Stearyl Alcohol, Trilaurin, Chlorphenesin, Imidazolidinyl Urea, Methylparaben, Phenoxyethanol, Propylparaben, Perfume (Fragrance), FIL
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March 13th, 2008
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futurederm |
Anti-Aging Treatments, Best Products, Best Products, Firming Treatments, Product Reviews |
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Photo courtesy FineWaterImports.com
According to Dr. Leslie Baumann’s Cosmetic Dermatology, collagen production decreases by approximately 1 percent with each year of age after maturity (about age 21), leading to a loss in firmness and elasticity of skin. So what’s an age-conscious woman to do? Here are some options.
1. Lasers.
Two recently developed lasers are the Genesis and Medlite lasers, which have been reported in the Annals of Plastic Surgery to stimulate skin to make new collagen. Genesis and Medlite lasers are only administered by licensed dermatologists. Most women require three to six treatments, and the results should last three to five years. According to the March 2008 issue of Health magazine, Genesis and Medlite laser treatments are about $400 each. Check with a dermatologist near you for pricing and availability.
2. Facial light therapy.
According to a recent study featured in the March 2008 issue of Allure magazine, LED phototherapy repairs sun damage and increases collagen and elastin production, although “lasers and peels have faster, more substantial results, but more side effects,” according to Seung Yoon Lee, a dermatologist at the National Medical Center in South Korea. With regards to LED therapy’s fewer side effects, Lee adds, “LED is safe for dark skin, unlike some lasers.”
According to Allure magazine, in the study, the researchers treated one side of 61 subjects’ faces with a light-emitting diode machine, while 15 others received a one-sided placebo treatment. Twelve weeks later, only the LED-targeted skin had a decrease in wrinkles (26-36 percent) and an increase in elasticity (14-19 percent). LED therapy seems to increase collagen and elastin production, although less significantly than lasers and peels.
3. Retinoid treatments.
Sometimes my blog feels like an ode to retinoids (and one excellent blog, the A-Train, actually is all about retinoids), and there’s good reason. According to research by Fisher et. al cited by Dr. Baumann in Cosmetic Dermatology, retinoids are effective in preventing and treating the collagen loss caused by photodamage. UV exposure decreases collagen type I and collagen type III with 24 hours, but treatment of the skin with all-trans retinoic acid prevents the loss of these types of collagen synthesis. In addition, Fisher et. al demonstrated that application of tretinoin inhibits the induction of matrix metalloproteinase genes, which are in part responsible for collagen degradation. Your best option is to talk to your dermatologist about prescription retinoid treatments. However, if you are interested in over-the-counter retinol treatments, I love Neutrogena Healthy Skin and Philosophy Help Me Retinol with <0.025% retinol, Skinceuticals Retinol 0.5 or Skinceuticals Retinol 1.0 with 0.5% and 1.0% retinol, respectively, and Green Cream Level 3, Green Cream Level 6, and Green Cream Level 9 with 0.3%, 0.6%, and 0.9% retinol, respectively.
4. Glycolic acid peels.
According to a 1998 study in Dermatological Surgery, glycolic acid treatments increase fibroblasts’ production of collagen in vivo (in hairless mice) and in vitro (in human skin fibroblast culture) better than either lactic acid or malic acid. However, if you’re deciding between prescription-strength retinoids and over-the-counter glycolic acid peels, you may want to choose the prescription retinoid cream. According to a randomized, placebo-controlled double-blind study, it was found that 0.05% all-trans-retinoic acid was more effective than 10% glycolic acid (a concentration found in at-home treatments) in treating signs of aging.
5. Topical vitamin C treatments.
According to a review in the International Journal of Pharmaceutics, vitamin C triggers collagen production and thereby increasing skin firmness. Dr. Jeannette Graf also adds in Dr. Burgess’s Cosmetic Dermatology text, “Topical vitamin C increases levels of tissue inhibitors of collagen-degrading matrix metalloproteinases (MMP-1).” Vitamin C is particularly potent in conjunction with vitamin E; unfortunately, a 2008 Dermatology Therapy study cited in Best Life magazine found that very few products containing these vitamins remain effective. This is most likely because vitamin C becomes esterified and inactive upon exposure to light, air, and heat. Your best bet? Keep your vitamin C and E product tightly sealed and in a cool, dark place, or consider a stabilized form of vitamin C, although less research has been done on the effects of, say, 2% ascorbyl palmitate than 15% L-ascorbic acid.
6. Topical peptide treatments.
Palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 has been shown to stimulate feedback regulation of new collagen synthesis and to result in an increased production of extracellular matrix proteins (collagen types I and II and fibronectin). For these reasons, palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 is increasingly popular in skin care products, and is found in StriVectin SD, Olay Regenerist 14-Day Intervention ($25.99, Drugstore.com), Olay Regenerist Night Recovery Treatment ($17.14, Amazon.com), Cosmedicine Primary Care Moisturizer SPF 20 ($48, Sephora.com), and DERMAdoctor Wrinkle Revenge Facial Cream ($72.00, DERMAdoctor.com), amongst others.
Palmitoyl oligopeptide is a second sequence of collagen-stimulating peptides. A 2007 study in Dermatologic Therapy suggests that palmitoyl oligopeptide significantly stimulates human skin collagen production in fibroblasts, which may slow the degradation of collagen over time. Palmitoyl oligopeptide is found in StriVectin SD and DERMAdoctor Wrinkle Revenge Facial Cream ($72.00, DERMAdoctor.com), amongst others.
7. Don’t use treatments with collagen in the ingredients.
I have said it before: collagen in skin care products acts as only a moisturizing ingredient. Topically applying collagen has never been shown to stimulate collagen synthesis or growth. This is because, according to Dr. Leslie Baumann in Cosmetic Dermatology, topically applied collagen is too large to fit through the stratum corneum [uppermost layer of the skin], as collagens have a molecular weight of 15000 to 50000 daltons, whereas only molecules of molecular weight 5000 or less can typically penetrate the skin.
8. Prevent future collagen loss!
Don’t smoke. Wear sunscreen everyday and limit UV exposure. Eat - and topically apply - lots of antioxidants, which has been shown to be more effective than either method alone. Use retinoids or alpha hydroxy acids to increase cell turnover. And exercise - although the link between exercise and skin’s collagen production is only implied, always remember, what’s good for your health is good for your skin.
If you have advice to add, comment below!
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March 8th, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Anti-Aging Treatments, Antioxidant Treatments, Cosmetic Dermatology News, Firming Treatments, General Cosmetic Dermatology, Laser Treatments, Light Treatments, Quick Questions |
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Vitamin C is one of the most common antioxidants found in skin care products. According to Dr. Leslie Baumann’s textbook
