(This is not me. Thanks.)
1…Massage it when it’s new, according to Dr. Zoe Draelos, M.D., renowned North Carolina-based dermatologist. Draelos tells Self, “When a wound is pinkish in color as it heals, you can minimize the chances of a scar by gently massaging it…the stimulation helps align the collagen underneath the blemish for a less noticeable mark.” Who knew?
2. Consider silicone gel sheeting. According to a 2007 review in the Aesthetic Surgery Journal, silicone gel sheeting is the only form of treatment effective against hypertrophic (raised) scars. The study considered popular treatments like Mederma, adhesive tape, and polyurethane, and concluded that only silicone gel sheeting has conclusive evidence for being effective in the treatment of raised scars. Who knew?
3. Avoid vitamin E. It is well-known that vitamin E thins the blood, aiding in circulation. Unfortunately, this property of vitamin E may interfere with healing. According to a 2007 story in The New York Times, vitamin E was found not to have any healing properties by researchers at the University of Miami. In fact, in some cases, vitamin E induced contact dermatitis in patients, making matters worse. (In other words, stick with an aloe cream, gentle massage, and silicone gel sheeting.)
4. Choose the right concealer color. According to Dr. David E. Bank’s Beautiful Skin, if the scar is blue/purple, use a mauve color concealer to prime the area, and then follow with concealer or foundation. If the scar is the same color as your skin, take caution to use a concealer and foundation exactly the color of your skin. According to Dr. Bank, “Anything lighter will highlight the imperfection.” Makes sense, now that you mention it…
5. Consider the pulsed dye laser (administered by a licensed dermatologist). According to Dr. David E. Bank’s Beautiful Skin, treatment with the pulsed dye laser is efficient, and can reduce the appearance of raised scars and stretch marks, although it is most effective when the area is still pink.
Overall, take care of your scars when they are new, and your investment of time and effort will pay off for years to come. 
Of course, it’s never to late to start, so be sure to start with gentle massage, aloe cream, silicone gel sheeting, and consulting with a dermatologist about probable laser treatments.
Share on Facebook
Email This Post
July 4th, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
General Cosmetic Dermatology |
one comment
Botox™ is an increasingly common phenomenon in American society. From celebrities to CEOs, supermodels to soccer moms, women to men, everybody is looking, well, a little less crinkly and a lot more smooth lately.
Thankfully, lots of great information is available on Botox. Here, I share everything I believe the savvy patient would want to know:
There are seven different serotypes of Botox™.
They are lettered A to G, with A being the most commonly used serotype as Botox (by Allergan), and B being used as Myobloc (by Ipsen Products). For more on the differences between the serotypes, please click here.
…But the person behind the needle ultimately matters as much as the chemical itself.
According to some records, Miami and New York City derm and “Baron of Botox™” Dr. Frederic Brandt™ administers more procedures per year than any other. But the reason for his popularity isn’t just the fact he reportedly has Madonna as a client: Brandt pioneered “the Botox™ Face Lift,” a series of injections that result in a face so lifted, it looks like a face lift. Botox is truly an art, so leave your face in the hands of a true master: according to DocShop.com, find a board-certified, fully licensed cosmetic dermatologist, cosmetic surgeon, or facial plastic surgeon who has conducted the procedure extensively, and do not be afraid to ask for photographs of other patients. However, do be wary of over-instructing the physician; for instance, some patients instruct the physician which part of the muscle to inject or how much injectable to use, and even though the patient may be very savvy, sometimes, the doctor really just does know best! In other words, once you find a trustworthy physician, let him/her do his/her job!
How Botox™ works:
According to Dr. Leslie Baumann’s Cosmetic Dermatology textbook, the most commonly used type of Botox™ is serotype A. When Botox™ serotype A is injected, it cleaves a protein that is necessary for a neurotransmitter release, effectively preventing the neurotransmitter from binding to cellular membranes to cause muscle contractions. (Hence your relaxed appearance afterwards!) And, for you science geeks, the exact protein that is cleaved is SNAP-25, the complex is the soluble N-ethylmaleimide sensitive factor attachment protein receptor, and the neurotransmitter is none other than acetylcholine.
Results are not instant.
Results generally take between 12 to 96 hours to fully appear, with the optimal effect occurring 7 days after the procedure.
The price may vary by physician and by patient.
According to Baumann, “the amount of botulism toxin needed per site depends on the musculature of the individual patient. Therefore, Botox™ and Myobloc should be priced by the number of units used, and not by the area treated…The price also varies according to the area of the country one lives in.” So don’t always expect to pay the same price as a friend or family member, and definitely don’t expect to cough over the same amount in, say, Cleveland and New York City.
The recent Botox™ scare is nothing to raise your brow over.
(Pun alert!) But seriously, no deaths in adults undergoing a cosmetic procedure have ever occurred from Botox™. A 2008 FDA investigation questioning the safety of Botox™ found that all of the serious events were in children exposed to extremely high doses of botulism toxin. The doses ranged from 6.25 to 32 units per kilogram of bodyweight — that is the equivalent of 460 to 2,400 units for an adult — a huge dose. The approved dose of Botox for cosmetic purposes is 20 units. Put simply, you would need to have a dermatologist inject you with 23 to 120 times the normal dose for toxic effects to occur. Not only is that about as likely as it to start raining elephants, but it has never happened to date - a sign you can surely rest assured of the procedure’s safety.
But there are documented side effects in some individuals…
According to the Botox™ Cosmetic website, patients with certain neuromuscular disorders such as ALS, myasthenia gravis, or Lambert-Eaton syndrome may be at increased risk of serious side effects from Botox. Aside from those patients, the most common side effects following injection include temporary eyelid droop and nausea. In addition, localized pain, infection, inflammation, tenderness, swelling, redness, and/or bleeding/bruising may be associated with the injection. Dr. Leslie Baumann recommends avoiding aspirin, green tea, nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs), and vitamin E 10 days prior to treatment, and topical vitamin K (as in one of my favorite formulations, Peter Thomas Roth Power K eye cream) afterwards. Ice packs may also help.
…including addiction to Botox!
Believe it or not, according to über dermatologist Dr. Patricia Wexler, “People with addictive personalities can get addicted to anything, and it’s up to the doctor to say ‘no’. That word should be in their vocabulary.”
…and there is the remote possibility that Botox use may change your brain structure.
This Italian study in the Journal of Neuroscience found that Botox™ injected into rats is not localized in the rats’ skin, but rather, travels to the rats’ brains, shutting off nerves there. My retort to this matches that of dermatologist Dr. Benabio, of the Derm Blog: “The study was done in rats, not people. We do not know if it would do the same thing in humans. Even if some botox did get into the brain, there is no evidence at all that it has any meaningful effect, good or bad.“ Still, if the idea of Botox™ potentially altering your brain structure freaks you out too much to keep using the stuff, Dr. Benabio recommends retinoids as tretinoin, and I particularly love non-prescription retinol formulations.
And you should NEVER make your own Botox™.
I got this one from The Derm Blog as well: don’t try to make your own homemade Botox from WikiHow, as this only leads to trouble. Remember, Botox is a prescription drug, and must be administered by a responsible physician!
No creams that are “better than Botox™” work quite as well as Botox™.
For instance, a 2006 study compared the efficacy of botulinum toxin type A (Botox™), placebo injection, StriVectin-SD®, Wrinkle Relax™, and HydroDerm™ (with palmitoyl oligopeptide), and found that none of the topical preparations were better than Botox in efficacy and overall patient satisfaction. This is most likely due to the fact that topical preparations of peptides increase collagen production over time, whereas Botox relaxes muscles and makes wrinkles very much less apparent within 1-7 days and stimulates collagen production over time. Another type of cream contains a GABA (inhibitory) neurotransmitter. Although companies claim that “100% of women” in their study experienced the 50-90% reduction in fine lines and wrinkles, the main ingredient, gamma aminobutyric acid, does not always have these types of results. GABA, an inhibitory neurotransmitter, may temporarily inhibit nerves and reduce the appearance of wrinkles when applied topically, but this effect varies from woman to woman, and is not usually anywhere comparable to Botox or other professionally-administered wrinkle reducers, particularly because topically applied GABA cannot affect synaptic transmission at the cellular level, whereas injected Botox certainly can.
Botox™ is only getting more popular…
According to Science, it’s one of the fastest growing cosmetic procedures in the world in 2008, with an estimated 1 million Americans undergoing the procedure. Before making the decision, find an experienced board-certified, licensed dermatologist or plastic surgeon or cosmetic surgeon, and, of course, stay informed with the latest news on FutureDerm.com, ;-) (Shameless, I know…)
COMMENT!
Remember, 1 comment = 1 entry in the first big FutureDerm.com and Skinmedix.com giveaway, to be held this Friday, June 19, 2008! (And 1 link to the blog on another site = 5 entries!)
Share on Facebook
Email This Post
June 17th, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Controversy, Cosmetic Dermatology News, General Cosmetic Dermatology |
13 comments
Okay, so I’m not going to sit here and start on a big lament about how a single sunburn puts you at an increased risk for skin cancer. Or about how sunburn only occurs after your cells are already damaged. Nope, not going to do that. ;-) What I am here to write a full blog post about, though, is how to treat a sunburn in seven easy steps:
1. Take an aspirin as soon as possible.
It may sound like illogical advice, but aspirin is a natural anti-inflammatory. According to Dr. James Spencer, a St. Petersburg, Florida dermatologist in this month’s Allure, “Ultraviolet radiation causes inflammation, and aspirin is an anti-inflammatory [that doesn't cause thinning of the skin over time.] “ Less inflammation means less pain, so I say, go for it! (One word of caution: don’t give aspirin to children under 18, as aspirin exposure in children has been associated with Reye’s Syndrome).
2. Try distilled white vinegar.
According to Dr. Audrey Kunin, author of The DERMADoctor Skinstruction Manual, distilled white vinegar takes the sting out of a burn, “once the initial sting from the vinegar wore off.” According to Kunin, “The acetic acid in the vinegar works as a topical NSAID (non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drug).” It doesn’t smell too pleasant, but it’s a nice quick, cheap at-home fix.
3. Shower with lukewarm water - and oatmeal.
Even if you’re Queen (or King, for that matter) of the Hot Showers, lay off for a while. Hot showers can be irritating for a sunburn, according to Dr. Jeffrey Benabio of The Derm Blog. Instead, Dr. Benabio recommends showering or bathing with lukewarm water and Aveeno Colloidal Oatmeal.
Oatmeal has proven anti-inflammatory and soothing properties. In a supplement to the journal Cosmetic Dermatology, it is stated that these ingredients are among the few natural ingredients that are regulated by the U.S. FDA. In addition, in the supplement, it reads that oats have been used since ancient Egypt to manage dry, itchy skin. Colloidal oatmeal, a preparation of ground hulled oat kernels dispersible in water found in Aveeno Colloidal Oatmeal, is helpful to dry skin in four major ways:
- 1. Contains a helpful mixture of components that soothe and/or hydrate skin, including 10-18% protein, 60-64% polysaccharides, and lipids, enzymes, saponins, prostaglandin synthetic inhibitors, vitamins, and flavonoids. In short, oat proteins have high hydration and fat-binding capacities, and have been shown to improve skin’s barrier function.
- 2. Has a lower pH than human skin, which enables absorption of oils and dirt on the skin.
- 3. Positively charged sites of oat proteins help oatmeal bind to negatively-charged parts of the skin, anchoring the moisturizing ingredients into the skin. This helps the ingredient form a thin layer over the skin. (Pretty neat, huh?
)
- 4. Contains vitamin E, an antioxidant.
- 5. In one study, cited here, oat kernel extracts inhibited prostaglandin synthesis to a degree comparable with that of indomethacin, indicating that oatmeal may reduce pain and itching.
4. Use an aloe vera cream immediately after you shower.
Aloe vera is one of the mysteries of the dermatological world: it works, but no one seems to know why. According to Dr. Spencer, “It’s been a sunburn staple since the days of the ancient Greeks and Romans, although no one knows why it works.” Maybe this will be something I devote my research days to in medical school, who knows. ;-) Until then, I recommend Aubrey’s Certified Organic Aloe Vera ($7.78, Amazon.com). (For more on certified organic, click here.)
5. OR try green tea creams or compresses.
A green tea cream works because — surprise! — it’s also anti-inflammatory. Two great ways to get it: one, try a cream with a high concentration of the active part of green tea, the EGCGs, like with the 90% polyphenols found in Topix Replenix Cream ($44.95, Amazon.com). Or, according to Dr. Kunin, you can brew up a batch of green tea, chill it, and make compresses at home. The EGCG will act as an anti-inflammatory through the cool compresses (pretty neat, huh?!) My personal favorite is Tazo China Green Tips Green Tea ($5.95 for a box of 24, Amazon.com).
6. Despite traditional advice, avoid benzocaine or lidocaine.
I have heard from a number of sources to use topical numbing agents, like benzocaine or lidocaine, on a bad burn. However, according to Dr. Jeffrey Benabio of The Derm Blog, “Although [numbing agents] can feel great when applied, they are notorious for causing allergic contact dermatitis. If you think a sunburn is bad, try adding an incredibly itchy, allergic contact dermatitis on top of a sunburn. As one of my patients put it: “Its like being tied down on an ant hill of fire ants.”’ Um, that’s not good. Sooo, stay away from traditional advice on this one, and lay down with some aspirin, vinegar, oatmeal, green tea, or Domeboro instead (see below).
7. Try Domeboro.
What’s Domeboro, you ask? (I had no clue either.) Domeboro ($10.03, Amazon.com) is an astringent solution that has been used for decades. According to Dr. Katie Rodan (of Pro-Activ fame) in this month’s Allure, it’s good for blisters. It’s available in powder form, and can be mixed with water (and yes, also green tea) to form a cool, soothing compress. Now doesn’t that sound nice?
Share on Facebook
Email This Post
June 5th, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
General Cosmetic Dermatology, How to Get Rid of... |
11 comments
There are certain rumors about skin care that sound so logical, people assume they must be true. Unfortunately, sometimes the right answer is the one that combats common sense! Here are five of the most common myths about summer skin care I have recently heard:
1. SPF 100 means 100% protection.
Errrt, wrong! An SPF of 100 means that the sunscreen blocks 99.0% of UV rays. And yes, that means an SPF of 200 is not only possible, but also would theoretically only block 99.5% of UV rays. How did I get these numbers? The amount of UVB an SPF is effective at blocking can be estimated using the following algorithm from dermatologist Dr. Rachel Herschenfeld: SPF means that 1/(SPF number) of rays goes through. That means that SPF 30 allows 1/30 UVB rays, or 3.3% through, blocking about 96.6% of UVB rays, and SPF 50 allows 1/50 UVB rays, or 2.0% through, blocking about 98.0% of UVB rays. According to Dr. Leslie Baumann, über-derm and author of Cosmetic Dermatology, the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) commonly listed on products refers to the amount of UVB protection, measured by the time it takes for a person without sunscreen versus a person with sunscreen to show a erythemal skin reaction (i.e., to show redness).
2. A base tan protects you from future sun damage.
Yes, it is true that darker-skinned women naturally have a slight SPF built-in to their skin (as if Halle Berry and Iman weren’t enough to make me jealous already, *sighs*). However, women who are lighter-skinned should not get a “base tan” to prevent future damage. For one, you will incur free radical and structural damage while trying to achieve the build-up of melanin that yields the bit of sun protection. And two, let’s not forget that everyone — of all skin tones — still needs sun protection: “[Melanin build-up provides an umbrella of sun protection], but the umbrella is porous - you’re still getting DNA damage, which can lead to wrinkles and skin cancer,” says NYC dermatologist Dr. Doris Day in the June issue of Allure. In other words, everyone needs sunscreen, and while dark skin naturally provides a bit of beneficial SPF, tanning lighter skin to get there isn’t benefiting you in the long run.
3. Self-tanner saves you from free radical damage.
Yes and no on this one. Yes, there is nothing proven to naturally age your faster UV light, which does pretty much everything from depleting collagen levels to inducing free radical production at monstrous levels. And if you use self-tanner and stay out of the sun as a result, then you are saving your skin. However, if you use self-tanner and then go out into the sun, you could be causing more damage: According to a 2007 study published in Germany (and cited in Allure), for 24 hours after applying a self-tanner, the skin is more susceptible to free-radical damage once being exposed to the sun.
In other words, best case scenario: avoid self-tanner, wear sunscreen, and avoid the sun between 10-4 P.M. except for 15 minutes/week (for adequate vitamin D production). Next best scenario: use self-tanner, wear sunscreen, and avoid the sun between 10-4 P.M. except for 15 minutes/week. Worst case scenario: use self-tanner, don’t wear sunscreen, and go out into the sun. Eeeeek!
4. “If my powder contains SPF, that’s enough protection.”
Oh dear. If you want to know how much SPF you are really getting from a product, divide the SPF number by 14, according to Dr. Leslie Baumann, über-dermatologist from the University of Miami. According to Baumann, scientists estimate the SPF of a facial powder assuming 1200 mg of product is used with each application, but the average woman only applies 85 mg of powder at a time, 14 times less than the estimated amount. In other words, if you want adequate sun protection, wear a moisturizer or sunscreen with SPF under your powder, even if your powder contains sunscreen.
5. SPF = UPF.
UPF, the rating system for sun protective clothing, has been getting a lot of press recently because sun protective clothing is currently popular and - dare I say it - increasingly stylish. However, unlike SPF, which quantifies only UVB protection, UPF is a number that incorporates both UVA and UVB (broad-spectrum) protection.
In general, according to Baumann’s Cosmetic Dermatology textbook, a UPF of 10 equals protection of about SPF 30, so a UPF of 50 equals protection of about SPF 150 (i.e., lets 1/150 rays through, providing 99.25% protection). Pretty cool, huh?
****
In short, rumors were made to be about Hollywood celebrity scandals, not your skin. Let’s put an end to these 5 skin care myths, shall we? 
Let me know your thoughts! After all, until June 19, 2008, every comment on FutureDerm.com counts as 1 entry in the $500 skin care giveaway from Skinmedix.com!
Share on Facebook
Email This Post
May 22nd, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Commentary, Controversy, Cosmetic Dermatology News, General Cosmetic Dermatology, Sunblocks, The Worst Things For Your Skin, sunscreen |
20 comments
In the June 2008 issue of Allure magazine, Kristin Sainani reports that researchers at Procter and Gamble have recently cracked the genetic code of the fungus that causes dandruff (all 4285 genes)! According to Thomas L. Dawson, Jr., a researcher at Procter and Gamble Beauty, “The [fungus] lives on every person’s scalp, [and] eats oil from the scalp and releases by-products that irritate the skin and cause flaking in susceptible individuals.” This is very exciting news, because understanding the fungus is the key to finding a cure. In fact, according to the article, current dandruff treatments (like pyrithione zinc in Head and Shoulders) only work because they reduce the number of fungi. New treatments will actually control the growth of the fungus. I say, this is dermatology and the beauty business at their best. Major kudos! I’ll keep you posted when new treatments are developed from the findings.
Share on Facebook
Email This Post
May 17th, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Controversy, Cosmetic Dermatology News, General Cosmetic Dermatology |
4 comments
Jack LaLanne is 92 years old in this picture. Source: Static.Flickr.com
Now more than ever, women of all ages are concerned with looking younger. And no wonder, with more information, products, and procedures available to them than ever before. Despite all of the newfound technologies out there, however, an effective anti-aging routine doesn’t have to be complicated. Here are 10 simple ways to look younger for far longer:
1. Relax.
Stress triggers the release of hormones that cause inflammation in the skin, which worsens the effects of, and even causes, free radical production and more rapid aging, according to Dr. Nicholas Perricone, author of The Wrinkle Cure. It seems like common sense, but learning to relax and finding the time to do what makes you happiest in life will make you glow from the inside out. One of my favorite guides is Finding Your Own North Star by Martha Beck - it taught me to relax and enjoy the work-life balance like no other.
2. Sleep at least 7 hours per night.
Sleep is when your skin restores and renews itself. To maximize your sleep efforts, take some advice from Dr. Ben Kaminsky, founder of B. Kamins skin care:
- Wear earplugs if necessary.
- Keep the room as dark as possible.
- Have a light, high-carb snack before bed, which increases serotonin production, which triggers calmness that can result in sounder sleep.
- Cut out caffeine.
- Take a warm bath before bedtime.
- Beware of medications that can disturb sleep (talk to your doctor).
- Spend time outside, especially in the morning, to keep body rhythms in harmony
3. Eat healthfully, and take a multivitamin.
Although multivitamins certainly are not a complete substitute for healthy eating, taking a vitamin has been shown to have skin-beneficial effects, as demonstrated in a 2007 study in Skin Pharmacology and Physiology. In the study, it was shown that either an oral supplement with antioxidants lutein and zeaxanthin or the cream with the same ingredients improved skin elasticity, hydration, and protection against sun damage. However, the combination of oral and topical formulations boosted numbers the most — skin hydration by 60 percent and protection against sunburn by 20 percent. Therefore, by taking beneficial ingredients orally and applying them topically, you are getting the greatest effects for your skin.
To keep skin hydrated, Dr. Howard Murad recommends a supplement that contains all of the following elements:
- antioxidants
- fatty acid supplements, like fish oil, to encourage the body to make its own water-holding molecules
- glucosamine supplements, also to encourage the body to make its own water-holding molecules
- lecithin, and its building blocks phosphatidylcholine and choline to maintain cell walls
4. Protect your skin from the sun.
Wear a sunscreen of at least SPF 30 everyday, and try to wear sun-protective clothing, including a hat. The effectiveness of ultraviolet protective clothing is measured by Ultraviolet Protection Factor, or UPF. Unlike SPF, which quantifies only UVB protection, UPF incorporates both UVA and UVB (broad-spectrum) protection. In general, according to Dr. Leslie Baumann, a UPF of 10 equals protection of about SPF 30. Sunscreen pills, such as Murad Pomphenol Sunguard Supplement ($35.00, Amazon.com), have also been found to boost sun protection by as much as 25%.
5. Exfoliate weekly and moisturize daily.
According to Dr. Patricia Wexler in this month’s Real Simple magazine, there are 3 steps to looking 15 years younger: “Exfoliate, moisturize, and apply sunscreen. Each one takes five years off.” Exfoliation, according to Dr. Ben Kamins, “works very effectively in the loosening of the dead cells of the stratum corneum and on acne-prone skin with plugged pores and dry, flaky skin.” It also enables your other skin care products to work more effectively. My personal favorite exfoliator is Peter Thomas Roth UnWrinkle Peel Pads ($45.00, Amazon.com), with the AHAs glycolic acid and lactic acid.
As for moisturization, according to B. Kamins, “For the skin to maintain an optimal barrier function, its hydration level is very important.” According to Dr. Frederic Brandt in this month’s Real Simple magazine, even the most basic moisturizer hydrates, giving the skin a chance to rest. By doing so, you help maintain collagen production over time, keeping your skin looking firmer (and you looking younger) for longer. I like it.
6. Exercise for at least 30 minutes at least 5 days a week.
According to the book Physiology of Exercise and Healthy Aging, exercise not only makes your body stronger, leaner, and more healthy, but also helps you look younger as well. In a recent study, women who did aerobic exercise 30 minutes 5 days a week for a year (or longer) were found to look 4 years younger than their non-exercising peers. Not bad!
7. Visit your dermatologist.
Although there are some incredible over-the-counter skin care treatments, your dermatologist can administer prescription-grade retinoids, more effective chemical peels, laser treatments, and unique therapies customized to your skin and your desires.
8. Use antioxidants, anti-inflammatory agents, and retinoids.
Some of my favorite formulations include Revalé Skin (with super antioxidant coffee berry), Patricia Wexler MMPi Skin Regeneration Serum (with anti-inflammatory matrix metalloproteinase inhibitors) and Green Cream Level 6 (with 0.6% retinol). For specific product recommendations, I highly recommend Dr. Leslie Baumann’s The Skin Type Solution, which recommends skin care products to each of sixteen different skin types.
9. Drink enough water.
According to Dr. Howard Murad , “Of all the raw materials you need, water is at the top of the list of the forty-odd other ones. ..however, [there is] no evidence to support the commonly known “eight by eight” rule that advises drinking eight eight-ounce glasses of water per day [for the skin]…[although] one study has shown that men who drank more than that had nearly half the risk of bladder cancer as those who drank half as much.” Instead of eight glasses, try to drink water consistently throughout the day, and more after exercising or being in the heat.
10. Don’t smoke.
Smoking has been found to be more responsible for aging the skin than sun damage (Baumann-cited, Daniel et. al., 1971). A recent German study also demonstrated that smoking is linked to acne, as about 40.8% of smokers exhibited acne, compared to 25.2% of non-smokers, amongst a population of 896 citizens. Although “smoker’s mouth” and facial wrinkles are commonly noted, a 2007 study in the Archives of Dermatology found that smokers were more likely than non-smokers to exhibit deep body wrinkles as well. Secondhand smoke puts you at a lesser, although still substantial, risk, so limit your time in smoky rooms as much as possible.
Other sources for great ideas
I was excited to read 50 Tips for Healthier Skin at Any Age on RNCentral.com recently. Even if you already live a healthy lifestyle, I highly recommend reading the article and picking up a new idea or two to incorporate into your daily routine.
Also, keep checking back on FutureDerm.com for product reviews and new ingredient information!
Share on Facebook
Email This Post
May 13th, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Anti-Aging Treatments, Cosmetic Dermatology News, General Cosmetic Dermatology, Uncategorized |
3 comments
Image source: Milwent.com
Crow’s feet are amongst the most complained about wrinkles on a patient’s face. And for good reason: “Crow’s-feet are usually the earliest wrinkles to appear on a woman’s face,” says dermatologist Debra Price, M.D., clinical assistant professor of dermatology at the University of Miami School of Medicine and a dermatologist in South Miami. So what to do about crow’s feet?
Take an aggressive approach at home.
To quote Meg Ryan in You’ve Got Mail, “Fight, fight, fight!” Start each day off with a multivitamin that contains vitamin C and linoleic acid, which has been recently reported in a study amongst 4000 women to reduce wrinkles. Next, apply an antioxidant serum and sunscreen or moisturizer with sunscreen, concentrating on the area around your eyes. Be careful that the formulations are tolerated well around the delicate eye area. My well-touted favorites are Skinceuticals CE Ferulic ($107.00, Amazon.com) and NIA 24 Physical Sunscreen SPF 30 ($42.95, Amazon.com), but I also love the new Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Dry Touch Sunscreen SPF 85 ($8.99, Drugstore.com) for ultima supremo sun protection (the most photostable out there, according to some reports). During the day, Dr. Perricone also recommends that you eat a diet rich in fruits and vegetables (for antioxidant activity), salmon (for omega-3s), healthy fats (think almonds and olive oil), and full of water and green or white tea to keep skin glowing. After all, nutrition and skin care together have better results than skin care alone.
At night, use a retinoid cream, followed by a moisturizer with DMAE, niacinamide, or antioxidants, provided your skin can tolerate it. The retinoid treatment is easier to choose: there is 0.5% retinol in Skinceuticals Retinol 0.5 ($32.95, Amazon.com), 0.6% retinol in Green Cream Level 6 ($42.95, Amazon.com) 0.9% retinol in Green Cream Level 9 ($49.95, Amazon.com), and 1.0% retinol in Skinceuticals Retinol 1.0 ($52.00, Amazon.com). You may want to start with a lesser concentration of retinol, applied every 2-3 nights, and gradually work up to nightly use.
As for a nightly moisturizer, Dr. Nicholas Perricone recommends using DMAE, which has been found and reported in two independent studies in The Textbook of Cosmetic Dermatology and Skin Research and Dermatology to significantly firm skin in the undereye area. A product with a high concentration of DMAE is NV Perricone Vitamin C Ester Amine Face Lift ($95.00, Sephora.com), and another designed for around the eyes with slightly less DMAE is NV Perricone Advanced Eye Area Therapy ($95.00, Sephora.com). (P.S.: Free shipping is also available for a limited time on orders of $50 or more from Sephora with the code SHIPPING50 at checkout!)
If DMAE is too harsh for your skin, niacinamide and antioxidants have also been found to have beneficial effects against wrinkles, in various studies. My favorite moisturizer with niacinamide is Olay Regenerist, while my favorite antioxidant moisturizer is RevaléSkin Night Cream.
Once a week, in lieu of your usual nightly routine, use a glycolic acid treatment, provided again that your skin can handle it. (Consult your dermatologist if you are unsure.) Two of my favorite glycolic acid peels are MD Skincare: Dr. Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Daily Face Peel ($75.00 for a thirty-day supply, Sephora.com) and Peter Thomas Roth UnWrinkle Peel Pads ($45.00, Amazon.com). Click here for a full review of the Dr. Dennis Gross peel; click here for a review of the Peter Thomas Roth Un-Wrinkle Peel Pads.
Then go see your dermatologist to look even better.
In the Journal of Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery, amongst many other sources, Botox injections have been found to make a dramatic difference in wrinkles. According to Dr. Jeffrey Benabio, M.D., in this month’s Oprah magazine, Botox injections partially paralyze the orbicularis orbis muscle to prevent it from contracting, which causes further wrinkling (and shows off the wrinkles you already have).
Benabio also recommends injectable fillers, like Restylane, to fill up the lines. Injections generally last 6-12 months, and are usually redone every 6 months. The cost is generally upwards of $500 per injection, but this varies by practitioner.
Last but not least, Benabio recommends dermatologist-strength chemical peels and lasers to stimulate collagen production, keeping the skin firm and crow’s feet production down in the future.
Yes, you can do it!
Always keep in mind that dermatology today is a lot more powerful than in years past. You can improve and prevent wrinkles, but, like everything else, it takes time, patience, knowledge, funds, and dedication.
Let me know what works for you! I love hearing feedback!
Share on Facebook
Email This Post
April 23rd, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Anti-Aging Treatments, Antioxidant Treatments, Best Products, Best Products, Eye Creams, Firming Treatments, General Cosmetic Dermatology, How to Get Rid of..., Spotlight On..., Wrinkle Treatments |
4 comments
One excellent self tanner: Clinique Self Sun Face, $18.50, Amazon.com
Self tanners are like the Alfred Hitchcock of the skin care world: they are very popular, yet they work in mysterious ways. However, recently, I decided to uncover the secrets of the self tanner, and I thought that it might be interesting to share.
Most self-tanners work by using dihydroxyacetone (DHA) as the main ingredient. According to a report from The Danish Ministry of the Environment, DHA reacts with amino acids and amino groups during the formation of melanoids (pigments), on the outermost layer of the skin (stratum corneum). The reaction between DHA and amino acids and amino groups results in the formation of pyruvate and other hydroxycarbonyl compounds (see below).
Source: Mst.dk
The next stages involve amine reaction with keto- (i.e, a compound with a C=O group) and aldo (i.e., a compound with an H-C=O group) compounds to form ketoimines and aldoimines:
Source: Mst.dk
The resulting skin cells turn a tan-like color, which fades over time because the skin sheds itself completely every 35 to 45 days. Because this is process gradual, companies generally recommend that you reapply a self-tanner every 2 to 3 days in order to maintain the same level of tan.Tune in Monday evening (after 9 EST) for four steps to your perfect self-tanning job!
Share on Facebook
Email This Post
April 21st, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Commentary, General Cosmetic Dermatology, Quick Questions |
no comments
Eczema is a condition that is characterized by rash-like symptoms, which may include redness, skin edema, itching and dryness, crusting, flaking, blistering, cracking, oozing, or bleeding. According to a press release for the product, the American Academy of Dermatology has found that 10-20% of the world’s population suffers from eczema to some degree. Atopic eczema is the most common type to occur, which is believed to have a hereditary component. However, some diagnosed cases of atopic eczema are caused by a specific irritating agent, and are in actuality a different form of eczema, called contact dermatitis.
Aveeno® Eczema Care Body Wash and Eczema Care Moisturizing Cream have been proposed as novel treatments for eczema. In one January 2007 study administered by Johnson & Johnson, 82-89% of all patients tested had improved symptoms of eczema after two weeks’ of daily use of each product — numbers that are highly impressive, even for an in-house study. Both the Aveeno® Eczema Care Body Wash and Eczema Care Moisturizing Cream have also received prestigious awards, including the National Eczema Association Seal of Acceptance and the Allure 2007 “Best Beauty Breakthrough” award! What makes these products so effective? Read on…
Natural Colloidal Oatmeal and Pure Oat Essence
Both Aveeno® Eczema Care Body Wash and Eczema Care Moisturizing Cream contain natural colloidal oatmeal and pure oat essence. In a supplement to the journal Cosmetic Dermatology, it is stated that these ingredients are among the few natural ingredients that are regulated by the U.S. FDA.
According to the supplement, oats have been used since ancient Egypt to manage dry, itchy skin. Colloidal oatmeal, a preparation of ground hulled oat kernels dispersible in water, is helpful to dry skin in four major ways:
- 1. Contains a helpful mixture of components that soothe and/or hydrate skin, including 10-18% protein, 60-64% polysaccharides, and lipids, enzymes, saponins, prostaglandin synthetic inhibitors, vitamins, and flavonoids. In short, oat proteins have high hydration and fat-binding capacities, and have been shown to improve skin’s barrier function.
- 2. Has a lower pH than human skin, which enables absorption of oils and dirt on the skin.
- 3. Positively charged sites of oat proteins help oatmeal bind to negatively-charged parts of the skin, anchoring the moisturizing ingredients into the skin. This helps the ingredient form a thin layer over the skin. (Pretty neat, huh? )
- 4. Contains vitamin E, an antioxidant.
- 5. In one study, cited here, oat kernel extracts inhibited prostaglandin synthesis to a degree comparable with that of indomethacin, indicating that oatmeal may reduce pain and itching.
Very exciting indeed!
Petrolatum, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Ceramides and Panthenol
All of the above ingredients in Aveeno® Eczema Care Body Wash and Eczema Care Moisturizing Cream serve as additional hydrators, preventing further irritation and drying of skin. Petrolatum and dimethicone are both occlusive agents, which seal in moisture and help prevent further moisture loss.
No potentially irritating ingredients
There are no fragrances, dyes, colorants, or steroids in Aveeno® Eczema Care Body Wash and Eczema Care Moisturizing Cream. In the press release for the product, the National Eczema Association (NEA) and their Scientific Advisory Board found “Aveeno® Eczema Care products are gentle, mild, and effective for those who suffer from eczema.”
An interesting, unintended single case study
…That would be me. For some unknown reason (maybe the stress of finals approaching?), I had my first case of eczema last week. It appeared on my neck, and I wasn’t sure what it was, but after reading up on it, I realized it was contact dermatitis. I found the Aveeno Eczema Care Moisturizing Cream particularly helpful in soothing, hydrating, and alleviating my symptoms, though it definitely takes time (I have been using it for a week now, and still have a little redness, but far less itching.)
As a result…
I highly recommend Aveeno® Eczema Care Body Wash and Eczema Care Moisturizing Cream to anyone with eczema or very dry skin. In the aforementioned Johnson & Johnson survey, 88% of consumers said that continued use of Eczema Care Moisturizing Cream improved their skin’s health with continued use, and I believe it. There are many great, proven ingredients in these formulations, and I love the fact that they’re non-irritating, hydrating, and take the itch away! Product rating: 9/10 (High concentration of proven ingredients: 3/3. New technology: 3/3. Value for the money: 3/3. Sunscreen: 0/1).
For further tips on how to manage your eczema, please click here.
Water, Glycerin, Panthenol, Distearyldimonium Chloride, Petrolatum, Isopropyl Palmitate, Cetyl Alcohol, Dimethicone, Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour, Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Oil, Ceramide 3, Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Extract, Methylparaben, Steareth 20, Benzalkonium Chloride, Sodium Chloride.
Water, Sodium Trideceth Sulfate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Sodium Lauroamphoacetate, Sodium Chloride, Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Flour, Laureth-2, Cyamopsis Tetragonoloba (Guar) Gum, Ceramide 3, Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract, Sodium Benzoate, Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Panthenol.
Share on Facebook
Email This Post
March 31st, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Best Products, Best Products, Dry Skin Treatments, General Cosmetic Dermatology, Natural Products, Product Reviews, eczema treatments |
3 comments
Photo courtesy FineWaterImports.com
According to Dr. Leslie Baumann’s Cosmetic Dermatology, collagen production decreases by approximately 1 percent with each year of age after maturity (about age 21), leading to a loss in firmness and elasticity of skin. So what’s an age-conscious woman to do? Here are some options.
1. Lasers.
Two recently developed lasers are the Genesis and Medlite lasers, which have been reported in the Annals of Plastic Surgery to stimulate skin to make new collagen. Genesis and Medlite lasers are only administered by licensed dermatologists. Most women require three to six treatments, and the results should last three to five years. According to the March 2008 issue of Health magazine, Genesis and Medlite laser treatments are about $400 each. Check with a dermatologist near you for pricing and availability.
2. Facial light therapy.
According to a recent study featured in the March 2008 issue of Allure magazine, LED phototherapy repairs sun damage and increases collagen and elastin production, although “lasers and peels have faster, more substantial results, but more side effects,” according to Seung Yoon Lee, a dermatologist at the National Medical Center in South Korea. With regards to LED therapy’s fewer side effects, Lee adds, “LED is safe for dark skin, unlike some lasers.”
According to Allure magazine, in the study, the researchers treated one side of 61 subjects’ faces with a light-emitting diode machine, while 15 others received a one-sided placebo treatment. Twelve weeks later, only the LED-targeted skin had a decrease in wrinkles (26-36 percent) and an increase in elasticity (14-19 percent). LED therapy seems to increase collagen and elastin production, although less significantly than lasers and peels.
3. Retinoid treatments.
Sometimes my blog feels like an ode to retinoids (and one excellent blog, the A-Train, actually is all about retinoids), and there’s good reason. According to research by Fisher et. al cited by Dr. Baumann in Cosmetic Dermatology, retinoids are effective in preventing and treating the collagen loss caused by photodamage. UV exposure decreases collagen type I and collagen type III with 24 hours, but treatment of the skin with all-trans retinoic acid prevents the loss of these types of collagen synthesis. In addition, Fisher et. al demonstrated that application of tretinoin inhibits the induction of matrix metalloproteinase genes, which are in part responsible for collagen degradation. Your best option is to talk to your dermatologist about prescription retinoid treatments. However, if you are interested in over-the-counter retinol treatments, I love Neutrogena Healthy Skin and Philosophy Help Me Retinol with <0.025% retinol, Skinceuticals Retinol 0.5 or Skinceuticals Retinol 1.0 with 0.5% and 1.0% retinol, respectively, and Green Cream Level 3, Green Cream Level 6, and Green Cream Level 9 with 0.3%, 0.6%, and 0.9% retinol, respectively.
4. Glycolic acid peels.
According to a 1998 study in Dermatological Surgery, glycolic acid treatments increase fibroblasts’ production of collagen in vivo (in hairless mice) and in vitro (in human skin fibroblast culture) better than either lactic acid or malic acid. However, if you’re deciding between prescription-strength retinoids and over-the-counter glycolic acid peels, you may want to choose the prescription retinoid cream. According to a randomized, placebo-controlled double-blind study, it was found that 0.05% all-trans-retinoic acid was more effective than 10% glycolic acid (a concentration found in at-home treatments) in treating signs of aging.
5. Topical vitamin C treatments.
According to a review in the International Journal of Pharmaceutics, vitamin C triggers collagen production and thereby increasing skin firmness. Dr. Jeannette Graf also adds in Dr. Burgess’s Cosmetic Dermatology text, “Topical vitamin C increases levels of tissue inhibitors of collagen-degrading matrix metalloproteinases (MMP-1).” Vitamin C is particularly potent in conjunction with vitamin E; unfortunately, a 2008 Dermatology Therapy study cited in Best Life magazine found that very few products containing these vitamins remain effective. This is most likely because vitamin C becomes esterified and inactive upon exposure to light, air, and heat. Your best bet? Keep your vitamin C and E product tightly sealed and in a cool, dark place, or consider a stabilized form of vitamin C, although less research has been done on the effects of, say, 2% ascorbyl palmitate than 15% L-ascorbic acid.
6. Topical peptide treatments.
Palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 has been shown to stimulate feedback regulation of new collagen synthesis and to result in an increased production of extracellular matrix proteins (collagen types I and II and fibronectin). For these reasons, palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 is increasingly popular in skin care products, and is found in StriVectin SD, Olay Regenerist 14-Day Intervention ($25.99, Drugstore.com), Olay Regenerist Night Recovery Treatment ($17.14, Amazon.com), Cosmedicine Primary Care Moisturizer SPF 20 ($48, Sephora.com), and DERMAdoctor Wrinkle Revenge Facial Cream ($72.00, DERMAdoctor.com), amongst others.
Palmitoyl oligopeptide is a second sequence of collagen-stimulating peptides. A 2007 study in Dermatologic Therapy suggests that palmitoyl oligopeptide significantly stimulates human skin collagen production in fibroblasts, which may slow the degradation of collagen over time. Palmitoyl oligopeptide is found in StriVectin SD and DERMAdoctor Wrinkle Revenge Facial Cream ($72.00, DERMAdoctor.com), amongst others.
7. Don’t use treatments with collagen in the ingredients.
I have said it before: collagen in skin care products acts as only a moisturizing ingredient. Topically applying collagen has never been shown to stimulate collagen synthesis or growth. This is because, according to Dr. Leslie Baumann in Cosmetic Dermatology, topically applied collagen is too large to fit through the stratum corneum [uppermost layer of the skin], as collagens have a molecular weight of 15000 to 50000 daltons, whereas only molecules of molecular weight 5000 or less can typically penetrate the skin.
8. Prevent future collagen loss!
Don’t smoke. Wear sunscreen everyday and limit UV exposure. Eat - and topically apply - lots of antioxidants, which has been shown to be more effective than either method alone. Use retinoids or alpha hydroxy acids to increase cell turnover. And exercise - although the link between exercise and skin’s collagen production is only implied, always remember, what’s good for your health is good for your skin.
If you have advice to add, comment below!
Share on Facebook
