I am sorry for not writing for a few days…I took a few days off from this and my day job ( 
), and now I feel better, relaxed, rejuvenated, and ready to talk skin care!
With that said, an exciting new ingredient for hyperpigmentation is bearberry, derived from a type of dwarf shrub rumored to be enjoyed by bears (hence, I suppose, the Yogi-licious name.) Humans (particularly those with derm licenses) are currently developing a taste for bearberry as well: In a 2008 study published in the Journal of Investigative Dermatology, certain active compounds found in bearberry, including arbutin, aloesin, flavonoids, hesperidin, and polyphenols, inhibit melanogenesis without melanocytotoxicity. The means of inhibition was varied, indicating that several bearberry successfully stops age spots from forming in several different ways. Promising!
A separate 2008 study found that bearberry lightened hyperpigmentation up to 70 percent, whereas the industry standard hydroquinone was effective in 78 percent of cases. However, due to incessant reports of irritation from hydroquinone use, as well as possible ochronosis development, bearberry holds a great deal of promise for those with sensitive or darker skin. In addition, bearberry has also been found to have antibacterial and antioxidant activity.
Due to its recent development as a whole ingredient (rather than just its extracts), bearberry found in very few products, including Amazonia Skin Balancing Cleanser ($18.00, Amazon.com).
Here’s to this exciting new ingredient!
Share on Facebook
Email This Post
June 28th, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Anti-Aging Treatments, Antioxidant Treatments, Hyperpigmentation Treatments, Spotlight On... |
5 comments
If you read my blog enough, you know that I am a diehard Skinceuticals CE Ferulic junkie. I would probably inject, inhale, and snort the $128 serum if it were possible to do so. (And yes, this is me being sarcastic, haha.)
So imagine my surprise when I discovered that Skinceuticals has a new serum: Skinceuticals Phloretin CF ($128.00, Skinmedix.com). It’s kind-of like CE Ferulic was a Harvard grad, only to have its baby cousin Phloretin CF emerge and become a Rhodes Scholar: Phloretin CF is just that amazing. Preliminary research demonstrates that it is basically a super antioxidant that not only fights free radicals, but also protects against DNA damage and penetrates well into the skin. As said in June 2008 issue of Oprah, “Phloretin, a natural extract that’s been studied as an anticancer agent, is the newest antioxidant available topically; research has shown it can penetrate the skin and provide significant UV protection.” According to Dr. Brenton B. Koch, M.D., F.A.C.S., SkinCeuticals developed Phloretin CF after five extensive years of research. Dr. Koch elaborates in his blog, “This powerhouse formulation divides and conquers when it comes to damage at every level. Phloretin CF protects against not only free radicals, but the range of other reactive molecules known to cause damage and DNA mutations among integral cell types. In addition, it corrects existing damage by stimulating the synthesis of essential proteins and fibers and accelerating cell turnover.” Additional research in The Journal of Biological Chemistry shows that phloretin is an inhibitor of sugar transport amongst red blood cells, which holds some level of promise as to the role phloretin may play in AGE formation and the subsequent hardening of the skin’s collagen.
So how does Phloretin CF differ from CE Ferulic? Basically, Skinceuticals:
- removed all the vitamin E (1% to 0%) and 5% of the vitamin C from CE Ferulic (from 15% to 10%)
- kept the same level of ferulic acid as an antioxidant stabilizer (0.5%)
- added in 2% phloretin (from 0% to 2%)
What is exciting about this is that 2% phloretin reportedly is a very powerful antioxidant, not only fighting free radicals, but also protecting DNA from future damage and penetrating the skin in a way the ingredients in CE Ferulic were not shown to in published research. What is not exciting is that the product not only contains less vitamin C than CE Ferulic, but took out the vitamin E altogether, and vitamin C and vitamin E in combination have many well-established functions together, including prevention of the formation of carcinogenic nitrosamines and enhancing the photoprotective effects of sunscreen, as vitamin C has been reported to enhance UVA protection, whereas vitamin E is more effective against UVB radiation. Vitamin C and vitamin E are also two antioxidants that are able to “borrow” an electron to enhance one another.
So which is better? The word is still out, until some brilliant scientist decides to do a comparison study of 15% L-ascorbic acid and 0.5% vitamin E versus 10% L-ascorbic acid and 2.0% phloretin. I say, if you are a cautious person, stick to the proven CE Ferulic until more research inevitably surfaces. (And my own personal experience from doing a switch to Phloretin CF, which will be available on the blog on June 17. ) On the other hand, if you are a trendy person who likes to be the first to try new things, then I would try Phloretin CF, because it is likely that 2.0% phloretin is equally or even more effective than 0.5% vitamin E, though one cannot be sure of such a thought.
At any rate, I love Phloretin CF! Be sure to come back on June 17 (and hopefully before, haha) to get the full scoop on my personal experiences from the switch!
Share on Facebook
Email This Post
June 2nd, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Anti-Aging Treatments, Antioxidant Treatments, Best Products, Best Products, Cosmetic Dermatology News, Firming Treatments, Hyperpigmentation Treatments, Product Reviews |
21 comments
Ah, just when I think I’ve heard it all, I run across MaMa Lotion ($44.50, Cosmeticville.com). A dermatological-grade potent combination of 20% unique alpha hydroxy acids (10% mandelic acid, 10% malic acid), MaMa Lotion has what it takes to become a new regular in my skin care line-up, reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, freckles, acne blemishes, acne scarring, hyperpigmentation, enlarged pores, melasma, ingrown hairs, and rough skin.
One of the main ingredients in MaMa Lotion, mandelic acid, is an alpha hydroxy acid derived from almonds. According to research published in the journal Tetrahedron, mandelic acid is a potent antioxidant, preventing skin lipid peroxidation when applied topically. A review in Clinics in Dermatology further affirms that mandelic acid is an AHA tat is able to treat signs of photoaging (including skin roughness and fine lines). Interestingly enough, mandelic acid is also used at 0.5% in antimicrobial solutions as an activating solution for 0.1% sodium chlorite.
Malic acid (hydroxybutanedioic acid) is an alpha hydroxy acid that is found naturally in apples. In the Journal of Dermatology, a published study found that a combination of malic acid and glycolic acid increased cell proliferation and functional activation of fibroblasts, indicating that the ingredient is effective in stimulating collagen production. Although it has been reported in the International Journal of Skin Science that malic acid is somewhat less effective than the alpha hydroxy acids glycolic acid and lactic acid, in combination with other AHAs (like the mandelic acid in MaMa Lotion), malic acid has been reported to have great efficacy in treating skin roughness, fine lines, and hyperpigmentation. Unlike the other AHAs, malic acid has also been demonstrated to have some level of anti-microbial activity, as reported in The American Journal of Enology and Viticulture.
Skin following 1 month treatment with MaMa Lotion.
MaMa Lotion is a very strong and effective product, with 20% AHAs and a pH of 2.5. For this reason, special instructions are necessary for those using MaMa Lotion; namely, MaMa Lotion should not be used more than twice a week for the first few weeks, and usage can then be increased to every other day or everyday, depending on the skin’s tolerance of the product. A gentle, broad-spectrum sunscreen, like LaRoche Posay, should be used everyday in conjunction with the product, and other products with AHAs, retinol, and the sun should be avoided. Those with darker skin should additionally consult this page for further instructions.
Although MaMa Lotion goes on very thick, it absorbs into the skin within 10-15 minutes, leaving the skin extremely smooth. The treatment can also be used on rough areas like the knees, elbows, and feet (with appropriate sun protection on these areas, of course!) With that said, I love MaMa Lotion. Although the very potent product does need to be used with caution, when used properly and in conjunction with proper sun protection, it really gives skin a fantastic glow! Product rating: 9.5/10. (High concentration of effective ingredients: 3+/3. New technology or unique formulation: 3/3. Value for the money: 3/3. Sunscreen: 0.5/1; there is no sunscreen in this product, but it should only be used at night anyway, so it is only a 0.5 deduction).
If you would like to try MaMa Lotion, Cosmeticville.com is currently giving away a free sample of MaMa lotion with any purchase! In the comments box at checkout, put - MaMa Lotion Sample. For more information, please visit Cosmeticville.com.
Water, Mandelic Acid, Malic Acid, Algae Extract, Polyacrylamide, Potassium Hydroxide, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Ubiquinone, Dimethicone, Cyclomethicone, Fragrance, Squalane, Laureth-7, Tetrasodium EDTA, Isopropylparaben, Isobutylparaben and Butylparaben.
Share on Facebook
Email This Post
June 2nd, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Acne Treatments, Anti-Aging Treatments, Best Products, Best Products, Best Skincare Gifts, Firming Treatments, Hyperpigmentation Treatments, Offers and Promotions, Pore Size Treatments, Product Reviews, Special Offers, Wrinkle Treatments |
22 comments
Recently, cosmetics companies have been having a field day trailing on the success of Bare Escentuals, each releasing their own formulation of mineral powder. Because it’s rather difficult to tell them all apart, FutureDerm is here to come to the rescue. To find out which has the best ingredients, as well as the best texture, read on…
Neutrogena Mineral Sheers Powder Foundation claims to “enhance skin clarity, tone, and texture.” Ingredients-wise, it lives up to the claims, with a plethora of skin-beneficial ingredients. Ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and tocopheryl acetate (vitamin E) are one of my favorite combinations of ingredients, and are well-touted throughout this blog. Vitamin C and vitamin E synergistically enhance the power of one another, and have been reported by Djerassi et. al. to prevent the formation of carcinogenic nitrosamines, and have also been shown in this 1996 study, amongst others, to enhance the photoprotective effects of sunscreen. One further thing I love: vitamin C is often unstable in formulations, but according to Dr. Burgess’s Cosmetic Dermatology textbook, “the most stable vitamin C preparations remain anhydrous or completely water-free,” like in Neutrogena Mineral Sheers Powder Foundation.
Neutrogena Mineral Sheers Powder Foundation also contains retinyl palmitate. Although retinyl palmitate was found in a 1997 study in the Journal of Investigative Dermatology to be less effective in penetrating the skin than retinol, it has been shown to exhibit the collagen-stimulating, smoothing, and wrinkle-reducing properties of retinol over time. In addition, retinyl palmitate has also been shown to be less irritating than retinol, which makes it promising in a powder formulation.
The final ingredient in Neutrogena Mineral Sheers Powder Foundation that I love is soybean flour. Soybean has been shown in numerous studies to exhibit anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, to stimulate collagen and hyaluronic acid production of human fibroblasts in vitro, and to lighten the appearance of sunspots after use for two weeks.
As far as product application goes, Neutrogena Mineral Sheers Powder Foundation goes on easily, even over sunscreen. The high concentration of mica and silica in the product makes it reflect the light, while the dimethicone makes it thicker than other Neutrogena powders I have tried in the past. It covers well and looks great, and I think it is the best choice if you are looking for light to medium coverage with skin-beneficial ingredients. Just one caveat: do not expect this or any other powder to give you sun protection. Although it says SPF 20, any powder product requires about 14 times the amount of normal powder application to receive the SPF listed on the package, so a powder with an SPF of 20 is really providing an SPF of about 1.2 with normal use.
Active Ingredients: Titanium dioxide. Inactive Ingredients: Mica, Octyldodecyl Stearoyl Stearate, Zinc Stearate, Silica, Dimethicone, Oryza Sativa Starch (Rice), Magnesium Myristate, Methicone, Ascorbic Acid, Tocopheryl Acetate, Retinyl Palmitate, Pantothenic Acid, Panthenol, Glycine Soja Flour (Soybean), Alumina, Silk Powder, Water, Polymethyl Methacrylate, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, May Contain: Iron Oxides, Nylon 12, Carmine
Clinique Almost Makeup SPF 15 claims to be “a long-wear formula” that “keeps pores out of trouble.” That’s always good - I was pretty upset the last time I had to go downtown and bail my pores out. (Sorry, I’ll stop putting bad humor in here, haha.)
At any rate, Clinique Almost Makeup SPF 15 is a solid talc-based formulation. Suitable for dry skin, Clinique Almost Makeup SPF 15 contains sodium hyaluronate, which in its unprotonated form as hyaluronic acid is a natural moisturizing factor that binds up to 1000 times its weight in water, according to one of my favorite dermatologists, Dr. Leslie Baumann. However, sodium hyaluronate, with similar water-binding abilities, is commonly used instead of hyaluronic acid in skincare products due to its greater chemical stability (Kewpie) and still-hydrating capabilities.
When applied, Clinique Almost Makeup SPF 15 feels thicker than Neutrogena Mineral Sheers Powder Foundation, and I feel that it provides greater (heavier) coverage. I like this product better than Neutrogena Mineral Sheers Powder for dry skin types or for those women who would like more coverage. Still, like with the Neutrogena product, don’t expect to get an SPF of more than 1 with this product.
Ingredients (01 Fair And 04 Neutral)
Active Ingredients: Titanium Dioxide 13.00% • Octinoxate 2.00%
Ingredients: Talc • Dimethicone • Nylon-12 • Silica • Squalane • Boron Nitride • Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer • Cetyl Caprylate • Diisostearyl Malate • Phytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate • Methicone • Aluminum Hydroxide • Glycerin • Sodium Hyaluronate • Magnesium Palmitoyl Glutamate • Sodium Palmitoyl Sarcosinate • Palmitoyl Proline • Alumina • Tocopherol • Palmitic Acid • 1,2-Hexanediol • Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate • Tin Oxide • Sodium Dehydroacetate • [+/- Iron Oxides (Ci 77499, Ci 77492, Ci 77491) • Mica • Titanium Dioxide (Ci 77891)]
Ingredients (07 Deep)
Active Ingredient: Titanium Dioxide 6.90%
Ingredients: Talc • Silica • Isostearyl Palmitate • Methicone • Sodium Hyaluronate • Triethoxycaprylylsilane • Nylon-12 • Glycerin • Alumina • Tetrasodium Edta • Chlorphenesin • Potassium Sorbate • Sodium Dehydroacetate • [+/- Mica • Titanium Dioxide (Ci 77891) • Iron Oxides (Ci 77491, Ci 77492, Ci 77499)]
Avon Ideal Shade Mineral Makeup is free of talc, oil, or fragrance. Of all three powders, Avon Ideal Shade Mineral Makeup is definitely the formulation closest to Bare Escentuals, with mica, bismuth oxychloride, and iron oxides. The consistency of Avon Ideal Shade Mineral Makeup is also the most similar to Bare Escentuals, with a half-foundation/half-powder type duality, and mastery of the application technique is a must.
Ascorbyl palmitate (a form of vitamin C) and tocopherol (vitamin E) provide some additional sun protection, while retinyl palmitate helps to refine skin texture and to improve cell turnover over time. The product feels like a heavier powder but covers like a good foundation, and stays put all day. If you are looking for a mineral powder experience that is completely distinct from normal powders, then I would recommend Avon Ideal Shade Mineral Makeup over the other two. (And again, wear sunscreen under it!!!)
Ingredients
MICA
TITANIUM DIOXIDE
KAOLIN
ZINC PCA
SODIUM HYALURONATE
SODIUM PCA
LECITHIN
UREA
C12-15 ALKYL BENZOATE
SILICA DIMETHYL SILYLATE
WATER/EAU
LAURYL PCA
TREHALOSE
ASCORBYL PALMITATE
ATELOCOLLAGEN
PHENYL TRIMETHICONE
BETA-CAROTENE
POLYQUATERNIUM-51
RETINYL PALMITATE
SODIUM CHONDROITIN SULFATE
TOCOPHEROL
NYLON-12
METHYLPARABEN
PROPYLPARABEN
MAY CONTAIN:
IRON OXIDES
BISMUTH OXYCHLORIDE
Share on Facebook
Email This Post
May 14th, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Anti-Aging Treatments, Antioxidant Treatments, Best Products, Best Products, Cosmetics, Dry Skin Treatments, Hyperpigmentation Treatments, Product Reviews, Spotlight On..., Sunblocks, sunscreen |
6 comments
For all mothers do every day of the year, there’s nothing better than giving Mom some luxury and comfort for Mother’s Day. And, in my personal opinion, nothing says luxury and comfort like thoughtful skin care. Here are some really special finds online that fit the bill perfectly:
1. Create a free website for Mom on Your Mom’s Philosophy.com. On Your Mom’s Philosophy.com, you can create a site about your mom and share your favorite stories, pictures, and videos - all for free. Other visitors will rate your page, and if yours is one of the top 20 ranked sites, your page will be featured on Philosophy.com on Mother’s Day as a finalist. From the 20 finalists, online voters will select one to receive the grand prize, a philosophy gift basket valued at $250. As an added bonus, everyone who creates a page will have a chance to win a $1200 shopping spree on Philosophy.com. I truly love this idea!
And, of course, philosophy has excellent Mother’s Day gift sets too. One of my favorites is the philosophy Amazing Grace Deluxe Gift Set ($85.00, Drugstore.com). For $85, the set includes an 8 oz. 3-in-1 shower gel, an 8 oz conditioner, an 8 oz body emulsion, a 4 oz hand cream, and a 2 oz fragrance. Best of all, the set features the peace-inducing Amazing Grace motto: How you climb the mountain is just as important as how you get down the mountain, and so, as it is with life, for which so many of us becomes one big gigantic test followed by one big gigantic lesson. In the end, it all comes down to one word: grace. it’s how you accept winning and losing, good luck and bad luck, the darkness and the light. So true - and so “Mom”.
2. Protect Mom’s skin with Celazome Serum Vitae for day ($54.00, SkinStore.com). Although my favorite skin serum is still Skinceuticals CE Ferulic, Celazome Serum Vitae is making a strong case for itself, with a high concentration of magnesium ascorbyl palmitate (a more stable form of vitamin C than in CE Ferulic) and vitamin E, plus anti-aging retinol, soothing aloe and lavender, and hydrating dimethicone and hyaluronic acid. Dr. Leslie Baumann even recommends it on her blog as a “top 5 spring skin care product.” To save money, sign up at eBates.com for free before you buy, and receive 8% cash back on your purchase, plus $10 bonus if you sign up before May 31, 2008!
I say this product is great for day because it contains vitamins C and E. which have been shown to enhance the effects of sunscreen. However, retinol can make the skin photosensitive, so if you use this product during the day, be sure to use it under a compatible moisturizer with sunscreen.
3. …and Lindi Face Serum for night ($40.00, LindiSkin.net). Available in lavender and citrus scents, Lindi Skin Face Serum contains a very high concentration of astaxanthin extract, a potent antioxidant. It also contains a high concentration of soybean oil, antioxidant vitamin E in two forms, hydrating ceramide 2, collagen-stimulating palmitoyl oligopeptide and ascorbyl palmitate, and soothing aloe. Despite the plethora of ingredients, Lindi Skin products are reportedly very gentle for the skin, as they are developed by a team of scientists for cancer patients undergoing radiation therapy and chemotherapy, who often experience nausea from skin care products due to scent, irritation, and even inflammation or stinging.
4. Give Mom sophisticated luxury with John Varvatos eau de parfum ($67.28, Amazon.com). I recently tried this perfume, and someone gave me the perfect term to describe it: “Mature.” A rich ambery floral with “fruity nuances”, it is definitely a scent for a sophisticated woman. According to the scent’s website, it product exudes “warmth, delicacy, elegance and sensuality.” New for the Spring, it’s one for the sophisticate for sure.
Here’s to great skin for Mom for Mother’s Day! Be sure to share some of your favorite Mother’s Day gift ideas too!
Share on Facebook
Email This Post
May 2nd, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Anti-Aging Treatments, Antioxidant Treatments, Best Products, Best Products, Best Skincare Gifts, Cosmetic Dermatology News, Dry Skin Treatments, Firming Treatments, Hyperpigmentation Treatments, Product Reviews, Quick Questions, Special Offers, Spotlight On..., Wrinkle Treatments |
one comment
According to the advertisements, Garnier Nutritioniste Skin Renew formula ($12.99, Walgreens.com) will help to reverse signs of past sun damage like fine lines, discolorations, and sun spots, as well as protect against future damage.
The product claims to contain 2x the vitamin C of the usual Garnier Nutritioniste formulas. Garnier Nutritioniste products seem to always use vitamin C in the form of ascorbyl glucoside, which has been found to be more stable than L-ascorbic acid at a wider range of pH and temperatures. While it has been found that ascorbyl glucoside has the collagen-stimulating, antioxidant, skin-lightening effects of L-ascorbic acid, the only downside is that the exact concentration of ascorbyl glucoside in Garnier Nutritioniste Skin Renew formula is not given, whereas it is established in certain L-ascorbic acid formulations like Cellex-C contain 15% L-ascorbic acid.
Garnier Nutritioniste Skin Renew formula also contains magnesium. Magnesium has been shown to improve barrier function recovery in the skin of mice, and the company claims that magnesium also “energizes and hydrates” the skin.
The last main ingredient, lycopene, I have mixed feelings about. On the one hand, lycopene, the caroten that gives tomatoes its red pigment, has been reported by Dr. G. Todorov to be the best antioxidant among carotens, with at least twice the free-radical scavenging ability as ß-carotene. Lycopene also serves as a natural sunscreen, providing a UVB of about 3, and it is speculated that lycopene could improve cell-to-cell junctions, theoretically improving skin’s texture. A 2002 study by Offord et. al. further found that lycopene and vitamin E together, as in Garnier Nutritioniste Skin Renew formula, can suppress the expression of matrix metalloproteinase-1 (collagen-digesting) mRNA. Unfortunately, the use of lycopene at all is questionable at this time, as a 2005 study by Yeh et. al demonstrated that topical application of lycopene “enhances UVA-induced oxidative stress in [mouse] fibroblast (skin) cells, and…under UVA irradiation, lycopene may produce oxidative products that are responsible for the prooxidant effects.” Although this study was done on the mouse, based on these results and similar from Offord et. al., it does not seem advisable to use lycopene in skin care products at this time.
According to reviews of Garnier Nutritioniste Skin Renew formula, the product is light, non-greasy, and smells delightful. Women largely report after a few weeks’ use that their skin feels softer and smoother. However, the eradication of age spots may take a while, as blogger E. Harmon notes that she had not noticed a “huge difference in the tone or brightness” of her skin, although notes that the effect may occur “with continued use over time.” I think it all depends on the amount of ascorbyl glucoside in the product, which hasn’t been reported.
Overall, I think Garnier Nutritioniste Skin Renew formula is a quality product, though it may not be as effective as products with a higher concentration of vitamin C, like Cellex-C. Still, it should improve skin’s texture, provide sun protection, and may eradicate sun spots over time. I give it a solid 7/10 (high concentration of proven ingredients: 1.5/3. New technology: 1.5/3, for the as-of-yet questionable inclusion of lycopene. Value for the money: 3/3. Sunscreen: 1/1.)
Ingredients in Garnier Nutritioniste Anti Sun Damage Moisture Lotion SPF 28
Water; Isononyl Isononanote; Glycerin; Cyclohexasiloxane; Propylene Glycol; Ethylhexyl Palmitate; Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate; Butylene Glycol; Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate; Dimethicone; Nylon-66; Styrene/Acrylates Copolymer; Glyceryl Stearate; Behenyl Alcohol; Solanium Lycopersicum (Tomato) Extract*; Ascorbyl Glucoside**; Tocopheryl Acetate; Actindia Chinensis (Kiwi) Fruit Water; Rosa Canina Fruit Oil; Capryloyl Salicylic Acid; Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate; Caprylyl Glycol; Magnesium PCA***; Manganese PCA***; Mica; Sodium PCA***; Titanium Dioxide; Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer; Dimethyl Isosorbide; PEG-8 Laurate; Disodium EDTA; Glyceryl Stearate Citrate; Octyldodecanol; Polycaprolactone; Sodium Citrate; Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 Sulfate; Sodium Hydroxide; Xanthan Gum; Methylparaben; Propylparaben; Butylparaben; Fragrance; Linalool; Benzyl Salicylate; Limonene; Geraniol; Citral; *Lycopene; **Vitamin C; ***Magnesium
Share on Facebook
Email This Post
April 30th, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Anti-Aging Treatments, Antioxidant Treatments, Hyperpigmentation Treatments, Product Reviews, Sunblocks, Wrinkle Treatments, sunscreen |
one comment
According to New Jersey plastic surgeon Dr. Sam Rizk, M.D., in an interview in this week’s Star, there are several differences between ablative and non-ablative lasers:
Ablative Lasers
- Also called: Erbium, CO2
- Treatments needed: 1
- Used for: Wrinkle reduction, tissue tightening
- Relative downtime: Significant. Up to 10 days post-treatment.
Non-Ablative Lasers
- Also called: Fraxel, Affirm
- Treatments needed: Several. Number varies; usually at least 3.
- Used for: Sun damage, skin texture and discoloration treatment.
- Relative downtime: Not significant.
One note of caution
According to renowned dermatologist Dr. Jeannette Graf, M.D., in the April 2008 issue of Allure magazine, “Lasers [are the most overhyped anti-aging treatment] - particularly the new radio frequency machines such as Fraxel and Thermage. There’s a small percentage of people who do well with them, but there’s a huge percentage for whom they do nothing.” Thankfully, lasers are (for now) only administered by licensed professionals, so speak to your dermatologist or plastic surgeon to see if you a good candidate for any laser procedure.
Share on Facebook
Email This Post
March 22nd, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Anti-Aging Treatments, Cosmetic Dermatology News, Firming Treatments, Hyperpigmentation Treatments, Laser Treatments, Quick Questions |
no comments
Are you a recovered sugar-addict who has regrets about her candy-coatedd past? Or do you still indulge in the sweet stuff and worry about what it could be doing to your skin? (Thanks to the existence of Tootsie Roll Pops, I admit to being in the latter category). Well, fear no more. Although excess sugar consumption leads to advanced glycation endproduct formation and hardened collagen, shu uemura Phyto-Black Lifting Anti-Wrinkle Essence ($95.00, Nordstrom.com) helps to prevent this process, and additionally firms skin by stimulating the production of collagen and glycosaminoglycans (GAGs).
What exactly does shu uemura Phyto-Black Lift do for the skin?
shu uemura Phyto-Black Lifting Anti-Wrinkle Essence is one of several L’Oréal company products to contain xylose (also known as Pro-XylaneTM), which reduces lines and wrinkles by boosting the production of collagen and glycosaminoglycans (GAGs) within the skin. Glycosaminoglycans are found primarily in the dermis of the skin. The major purpose of GAGs is to defend against water loss, as they bind large quantities of water, up to 1000 times their volume. For this reason, GAGs are also known as “natural moisturizing factors,” or NMFs (for more, see here). Most studies show that GAGs, such as hyaluronic acid and dermatan sulfate decrease with age; however, some studies found no change in the amount of GAGs in aged skin. If in fact the majority of research is correct and GAGs do in fact decrease in aged skin, then changes in skin due to loss of GAGs may include decreased elasticity, decreased turgidity, and wrinkling. According to the October 2007 issue of Allure magazine, L’Oréal scientists found that when xylose was applied to the skin, the skin held more moisture, stimulated collagen production, and generated the production of new GAGs within the skin. (For even more on xylose, click here.)
shu uemura Phyto-Black Lifting Anti-Wrinkle Essence is distinct from other products containing xylose because it takes the fight against aged collagen one step further with the inclusion of black tea. Black tea has been found in this study to prevent glycation-produced cross-linking of collagen in the aorta of rats, and has also been shown in this study to be protective against UVB-induced photodamage in mice. According to a company release I was mailed, the type of black tea extract used in the line is kombucha, a Japanese black tea that has been consumed for over 2000 years.
Finally, shu uemura Phyto-Black Lifting Anti-Wrinkle Essence treats age spots with the inclusion of molasses extract. Molasses extract has been found to inhibit the enzyme that is responsible for age spots, as Dr. David H. McDaniel, director of the Institute of Anti-Aging in Virginia Beach, states in the December 2007 issue of Allure magazine: “…shu uemura Phyto-Black Lifting Anti-Wrinkle Essence targets the discoloration that comes with aging.”
What do the experts say?
As Dr. David H. McDaniel states in Allure magazine, “It hits on a lot of the key things that are important for anti-aging, such as stimulating collagen and GAGs. What extends it from being just a wrinkle cream is that it also targets the discoloration that comes with aging.”
What do people who have tried it say?
After trying shu uemura Phyto-Black Lifting Anti-Wrinkle Essence, I find it to have a milky texture and slight scent. It drinks into the skin and absorbs quickly. Immediately after application, skin feels smooth and soft. The micro-silica in the product also helps to reflect the light and create the illusion of smoother skin sooner.
According to Hannah Morrill for the same article in in Allure, “It felt smooth and cool, and after three weeks the freckles on our nose and the lines on our forehead are less visible.”
What other products are available in the shu uemura Phyto-Black Lift line?
There are three other products in the shu uemura Phyto-Black Lift line. The company advises to buy three of the four products and use them in a specific order.
The first is shu uemura Phyto Black Lift Radiance Boosting Lotion ($45.00, Nordstrom.com), which the company advises to be used before the shu uemura Phyto-Black Lifting Anti-Wrinkle Essence. It contains alpha hydroxy acids and fruit extracts to “prepare the skin.”
The second step is the shu uemura Phyto-Black Lifting Anti-Wrinkle Essence, reviewed above.
The third step is either the shu uemura Phyto Black Lift Firming Anti-Wrinkle Cream (for normal to dry skin) or shu uemura Phyto Black Lift Smoothing Wrinkle Emulsion (for normal to oily skin). shu uemura Phyto Black Lift Firming Anti-Wrinkle Cream for normal to oily skin contains a lipid compound that is highly moisturizing, in addition to the Pro-XylaneTM, black tea, and molasses extract found in shu uemura Phyto-Black Lifting Anti-Wrinkle Essence. shu uemura Phyto Black Lift Smoothing Wrinkle Emulsion contains ginkgo biloba instead of lipids, so as to not over-moisturize oily skin. According to a 1997 study in Skin Pharmacology, ginkgo biloba increases collagen production of human skin fibroblasts in vitro, and additionally assists in reducing skin inflammation.
Personal Opinions
As far as anti-aging skin care goes, there seems to be the most research in favor of sunscreen, antioxidants, and retinoids. However, firming ingredients like xylane (in this line), DMAE, and wheat protein are appearing in a multitude of different products. If you eat right, exercise, wear sunscreen, use antioxidants & retinoids and still have concerns about facial firmness, then, based on what I have read, I think shu uemura Phyto-Black Lifting Anti-Wrinkle Essence can help with firming the skin somewhat and preventing collagen loss down the road.
Personally, I like the idea of using shu uemura Phyto-Black Lifting Anti-Wrinkle Essence because I have a bit of a sweet tooth and wouldn’t mind being able to prevent some advanced glycation endproducts from forming. However, I personally wouldn’t find it necessary to buy the whole line (again, this is just a personal opinion). I would choose the Radiance Boosting Lotion if I most wanted the exfoliating benefits of a light AHA treatment, the Lifting Anti-Wrinkle Essence if I were most concerned with age spots, the Anti-Wrinkle Cream if my skin were dry, and the Smoothing Wrinkle Emulsion if my skin were sensitive.
Overall, I love the whole line, and I give it a solid 9/10 (-1 for no sunscreen in any of the products!)
Share on Facebook
Email This Post
March 15th, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Anti-Aging Treatments, Best Products, Best Products, Firming Treatments, Hyperpigmentation Treatments, Product Reviews |
5 comments
Vitamin C is one of the most common antioxidants found in skin care products. According to Dr. Leslie Baumann’s textbook Cosmetic Dermatology, topical application of vitamin C has been found to protect against UV-induced erythema and sunburn, to increase fibroblast production of collagen, and to possibly reduce wrinkle formation. For more on vitamin C and its derivatives in skin care products, read on!
Why use vitamin C in topical skin care?
According to the International Journal of Pharmaceutics, vitamin C has many favorable aspects for the skin, including:
Dr. Jeannette Graf also adds in Dr. Burgess’s Cosmetic Dermatology text:
- “Topical vitamin C increases levels of tissue inhibitors of collagen-degrading matrix metalloproteinases (MMP-1). “
According to a study in the British Journal of Dermatology, topical application of vitamin C has been shown to prevent UVA-mediated phototoxic reactions in porcine [pig] skin, as well as to supplement depleted vitamin C levels after UVA exposure. According to the Journal of Photochemistry and Photobiology, UVA-induced damage includes the release of oxidative species, resulting in immunosuppression, photodermatoses, photoaging and photocarcinogenesis.
In addition, according to the study in the British Journal of Dermatology, topical application of vitamin C also protected skin from UVB-induced damage, as measured by erythema and sunburn. According to the Journal of Photochemistry and Photobiology, UVB-mediated damage includes activation of MAPK and NF-κB pathways that can result in erythema, hyperplasia, hyperpigmentation, immunosuppression, photoaging and skin cancer.
How does the efficacy of vitamin C compare to that of other antioxidants?
Based on a 2006 study by McDaniel et. al, vitamin C is less effective at reducing oxidative stress than similar concentrations of idebenone or vitamin E, kinetin, or ubiquinone. Other potent antioxidants anticipated to be more effective than vitamin C, such as CoffeeBerry and green tea, were not included in the study. However, in the study, vitamin C was found to be more effective at reducing oxidative stress than lipoic acid.
According to The Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, the above ranking of antioxidants was found via a multistep sequence of in vitro and in vivo methods. In vitro methods included using UV-induced radical trapping/scavenging capacity measured by photochemiluminescence, pro-oxidative systems (LDL-CuSO4, microsome-NADPH/ADP/Fe3+) with measurement of primary and secondary oxidation products, UVB irradiation of human keratinocytes, and in vivo evaluation, using the human sunburn cell (SBC) assay. Correlation and trends between in vitro and in vivo results were established, and the standardized test protocol was used to quantify oxidative stress protection capacity of antioxidants.
What are all of the different forms of vitamin C available in skin care products?
L-ascorbic acid is the most common form of vitamin C used in skin care. It is water-soluble. The advantage to L-ascorbic acid is that its concentrations are well-established in skin care products; for instance, CellexC contains 10% L-ascorbic acid and Skinceuticals CE Ferulic ($103.70, Amazon.com) contains 15% L-ascorbic acid. It has been shown that topical application of CellexC, with 10% L-ascorbic acid, results in the presence of L-ascorbic acid in the skin days after application, with an increase in the level of collagen as well. Unfortunately, it is well known (and reported here in the journal Die Pharmazie) that L-ascorbic acid changes upon exposure to light, heat, or air. In particular, L-ascorbic acid is reversibly oxidized to L-dehydroascorbic acid, at which point it may then be irreversibly oxidized to diketogulonic acid, which is inactive. For this reason, numerous substitutes to L-ascorbic acid are used in skin care.
Ascorbyl palmitate is a fat-soluble ester of L-ascorbic acid; it is L-ascorbic acid combined with palmitic acid, a fatty acid. According to a 1997 study, the ascorbyl palmitate is more stable than L-ascorbic acid. A 2001 study in the International Journal of Pharmaceutics found that the stability of ascorbyl palmitate was increased further when ascorbyl palmitate was used in high concentrations (1-2%), or placed in water-in-oil emulsions rather than oil-in-water emulsions, due to the relocation of the unstable cyclic ring to the internal aqueous phase in the water-in-oil emulsions. Given that ascorbyl palmitate concentrations are generally 0.05-1%, unless a higher concentration of ascorbyl palmitate is established for a product, sodium ascorbyl palmitate or magnesium ascorbyl palmitate have been found to be more stable in solutions (see below).
Sodium ascorbyl palmitate is a water-soluble form of L-ascorbic acid; it is L-ascorbic acid combined with palmitic acid, a fatty acid, and - you’ll never guess - sodium. According to a 2001 study in the International Journal of Pharmaceutics, sodium ascorbyl palmitate has greater long-term stability than ascorbyl palmitate when each is used in similar concentrations. Unlike ascorbyl palmitate, sodium ascorbyl palmitate is stable in water-in-oil emulsions and oil-in-water emulsions.
Magnesium ascorbyl palmitate is a water-soluble form of L-ascorbic acid. According to a 1997 study in the Journal of Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Analysis, magnesium ascorbyl palmitate has greater stability than both L-ascorbic acid and ascorbyl palmitate, like sodium ascorbyl palmitate. (As far as I know, no peer-reviewed published studies have compared the efficacy and stability of magnesium ascorbyl palmitate and sodium ascorbyl palmitate.)
Ascorbyl glucoside. Ascorbyl glucoside has a structure in which the C2-hydroxyl group of L-ascorbic acid is masked with glucose. According to the manufacturer, Hayashibara International, once ascorbyl glucoside is selectively permeated through the skin, it is broken down into L-ascorbic acid and glucose by the enzyme alpha-glucosidase. Essentially, because ascorbyl glucoside is broken down into L-ascorbic acid, it has the same functions as L-ascorbic acid! In addition, ascorbyl glucoside has been found to have greater stability in the presence of air, heat, light, and pH changes than L-ascorbic acid.
Ascorbyl glucosamine is L-ascorbic acid combined with (yes, this is obvious) glucosamine. Although the combination of N-acetyl glucosamine (NAG) and niacinamide was shown to reduce facial hyperpigmentation in Japanese and Caucasian subjects with facial hyperpigmentation in two double-blind, vehicle-controlled, split-face, left-right randomized clinical studies, use of a formulation with 5% ascorbyl glucosamine was shown to be less effective in reducing hyperpigmentation than 20% azelaic acid (source: Dermatology).
According to Dr. Burgess’s Cosmetic Dermatology textbook, “the most stable vitamin C preparations remain anhydrous or completely water-free.”
Can vitamin C really reduce wrinkles?
According to Dr. Leslie Baumann’s textbook Cosmetic Dermatology, there is only one study in the literature that studies the effects of vitamin C on wrinkles. In the study, CellexC with 10% L-ascorbic acid ($90.00, AstonishingSkinCare.com) was used in a split-face study for three months, and was found to decrease wrinkles (as measured by photography assessments and optical profilometry). However, as Dr. Baumann states, “the study cannot be considered as a blinded study because a large population of the patients experienced stinging on the side treated with vitamin C. However, there was a significant difference in the wrinkles on the treated side versus the untreated side.” Baumann speculates reasons for this may be increased collagen synthesis or inflammation from the product.
What’s the advantage to using vitamin C and vitamin E together?
According to Dr. Leslie Baumann’s Cosmetic Dermatology textbook, vitamin C and vitamin E are network antioxidants that have been found to synergistically enhance the power of one another. (When one antioxidant is depleted, it can essentially “borrow” an electron from the other antioxidant to renew itself, and vice versa). Vitamins C and E as L-ascorbic acid and tocopheryl acetate have also been reported by Djerassi et. al. to prevent the formation of carcinogenic nitrosamines. Vitamin C and vitamin E have also been shown to enhance the photoprotective effects of sunscreen, as vitamin C has been reported to enhance UVA protection, whereas vitamin E is more effective against UVB radiation.
Lastly, vitamin C has also been found to decrease hyperpigmentation, although a study in the International Journal of Dermatology found that 4% hydroquinone was more effective in treating melasma than vitamin C as L-ascorbic acid. However, a separate study, also in the International Journal of Dermatology, found that combination therapy of 4% hydroquinone, vitamin C, vitamin E, and 10% glycolic acid was effective in treating signs of hyperpigmentation.
Vitamin E is naturally produced in sites rich in sebaceous glands, as it is physiologically delivered to the surface via secretion of sebum, according to this article in the journal Skin Pharmacology and Physiology. According to a second research study, this study by Packer and Valacchi, vitamin E may be the predominant natural antioxidant both in murine and human skin, and it shows a characteristic gradient with lower levels towards the outer stratum corneum layers.
I know I’m just learning, but in my opinion…
Vitamin C has been proven to increase protection against free-radical damage, to increase collagen production, and to decrease tyrosinase activity. Unfortunately, L-ascorbic acid is not very stable upon exposure to heat, light, and air. This is unfortunate, because concentrations of L-ascorbic acid in skin care products and their effects have been widely studied, while the concentrations of other forms of vitamin C and their effects are not as established yet. I would love to see studies on how, say, 15% L-ascorbic acid compares to 2% ascorbyl palmitate and 2% ascorbyl glucoside upon first opening the package and after several uses of each product. At any rate, I hope you found this helpful, and I would love to learn (and publish) more from anyone with information!
Share on Facebook
Email This Post
March 6th, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Antioxidant Treatments, Best Products, Best Products, Firming Treatments, General Cosmetic Dermatology, Hyperpigmentation Treatments, Spotlight On... |
17 comments
Salicyclic acid is found in 0.5% concentration in Neutrogena Body Clear Body Wash. Photo courtesy Amazon.com.
Salicyclic acid is a beta-hydroxy acid that is used to cleanse and exfoliate the skin. According to Dr. Heather Brannon, M.D., a family-practice physician with a specialty in Dermatology, salicyclic acid is also reported to improve signs of aging including wrinkling, roughness, and mottled pigmentation of photodamaged skin with at least 6 months of daily application.
How Salicyclic Acid Works
According to DermNetNZ, salicylic acid works by softening keratin, a protein that forms part of the skin structure. This helps to loosen dry scaly skin, increasing cell turnover and effectively renewing the skin. It is often used in acne treatments to cleanse and to prevent clogging of the pores.
When salicylic acid is used in combination with other treatments, it is often to allow the other formulation’s ingredients to penetrate the skin more effectively.
How Salicyclic Acid is Made
According to Wikipedia, salicyclic acid is biosynthesized from the amino acid phenylalanine. For all you super organic chemists out there, sodium salicylate is commercially prepared by treating sodium phenoxide with a high pressure of carbon dioxide at high temperature via the Kolbe-Schmitt reaction. Acidification of the product solution gives salicylic acid. According to Dr. Brannon, salicyclic acid works best in skin care in a concentration of 1% to 2% and at a pH of 3 to 4.
In what concentrations is salicyclic acid found in skin care products and medicines?
| Preparation |
Topical form |
Indications |
| Salicylic acid 2-3%, Betamethasone 0.05% (Diprosalic®) |
Lotion
Ointment |
Psoriasis
Hyperkeratotic eczema |
| Salicylic acid 15-27% (Duofilm®) |
Paint
Gel |
Viral warts
Corns |
| Salicylic acid 2%, Coal tar solution 12%, Sulphur 4% (Coco-Scalp®) |
Ointment |
Seborrhoeic dermatitis
Dandruff
Scalp psoriasis |
| Salicylic acid 0.5% oil-free acne wash (Neutrogena®) |
Cleanser |
Acne |
What Skin Care Ingredients Should I Use in Conjunction With Salicyclic Acid?
Be sure to wear a broad-spectrum, UVA/UVB sunscreen of at least SPF 15 everyday with salicyclic acid use, as advised by to Dr. Heather Brannon, M.D. The reason is that alpha and beta hydroxy acids tend to thin the skin, making it more susceptible to sun damage. If you are using beta hydroxy acids for the anti-aging effects, you are negating your purpose in the long run if you don’t use sunscreen!
What Skin Care Ingredients Should I Not Use in Conjunction with Salicyclic Acid?
According to DermNetNZ, skin care ingredients with any of the following ingredients should not be used in conjunction with salicyclic acid, unless you are advised otherwise by your physician:
- Medicated topical agents, e.g. benzoyl peroxide (unless you are using a benzoyl peroxide spot treatment in the morning and a salicyclic acid spot treatment at night), topical retinoids (unless you are using a salicyclic acid spot treatment and using retinoids elsewhere on your face), calcipotriol
- Abrasive soaps and cleansers
- Cosmetics or soaps that dry the skin or are designed to peel/exfoliate
What is the difference between an alpha hydroxy acid and a beta hydroxy acid?
Alpha hydroxy acids include glycolic acid and lactic acid, while beta hydroxy acids include salicyclic acid. Alpha hydroxy acids are water-soluble, while beta hydroxy acids are lipid-soluble (i.e., oil-soluble). According to Dr. Brannon, this means that beta hydroxy acid is better able to penetrate into the pores, so it is better used on oily skin with blackheads and whiteheads. On the other hand, alpha hydroxy acids are better used on thickened, sun-damaged skin where breakouts are not a problem.
Is salicyclic acid for everyone?
No. Salicyclic acid should not be used by zinc-deficient individuals, due to its ototoxic effects, or by women who are pregnant or nursing, due to risk of Reye’s Syndrome. In addition, some individuals are salicylate sensitive, and should not use salicyclic acid products nor take aspirin. Check with your doctor if you experience:
- moderate or severe skin irritation (particularly if not present before use of this medicine)
- flushing
- unusually warm skin and reddening of skin
Share on Facebook
Email This Post
February 29th, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Acne Treatments,
