Although the question as to whether or not there are definite advantages for natural skin care is still open, Aveda’s new Green Science Skin Care makes a strong case for the natural side of things. Aveda’s new line combines scientifically proven plant-derived ingredients with natural production methods (wind power!) and packaging to create a truly effective, yet earth-savvy, skin care line.
The active ingredients in the Green Science line include argan oil, which has received a lot of media attention because of its fair trade deal with the Targanine Cooperative, However, according to experts cited in Elle, magazine (June 2008), argan oil has three times the amount of antioxidant vitamin E found in olive oil. Further, Pat Peterson, the executive director of research and development for Aveda, tells the magazine, “The antioxidants and fatty acids work synergistically to stop inflammation.” According to Aveda’s in-house clinical tests, subjects showed a 38 percent improvement in lines after eight weeks of using the Green Science cream.
A second key ingredient in Aveda Green Science skin care, plai oil, has been cited in this 2003 report as having antioxidant and tyrosinase inhibition activity. A second study in Phytotherapy Research demonstrated that plai oil may have antimicrobial activity as well. This indicates that plai oil shows promise as a natural anti-aging skin care ingredient, though additional studies need to be conducted to determine just how much promise. Aveda further stresses that its plai oil sources are from rural and indigenous farmers in Thailand.
Other natural ingredients in the Aveda Green Science line include organic cactus, which shows some promise as a collagen production stimulant, glucosamine, which increases skin’s brightness somewhat, and boswellia, a natural anti-inflammatory.
Overall, if someone is committed to using only natural skin care, then Aveda Green Science Skin Care is a great way to go, as the ingredients are well-established for all-natural ingredients, the packaging is 100% post-consumer recycled PET jar, and even the manufacturing is 100% all-wind power. Just one caveat: with a list of ingredients this extensive, those with extremely sensitive skin may want to use the product with caution (or at least try it from a merchant with a forgiving return policy). All in all, though, an excellent line, one I give a solid 9/10.
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July 8th, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Anti-Aging Treatments, Best Products, Best Products, Natural Products |
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Do I sense a hot new ingredient? In the May 2008 issue of Elle, one of my favorite derms, Dr. Leslie Baumann, reports, “Unlike other exotic resources such as caviar and marine algae, argan oil offers the best of both worlds…It’s an antiager and it’s eco-friendly.” Dubbed ‘the gold of Morocco,’ argan oil contains essential fatty acids (linoleic and oleic acids) and antioxidant polyphenols. Argan oil is now available in Kiehl’s Superbly Restorative Dry Oil with Organic Fairly Traded Argan Body Lotion ($35.00, Kiehls.com) Kiehl’s Superbly Restorative Body Lotion with Organic Fairly Traded Argan Oil ($30.00, Kiehls.com), Liz Earle Naturally Active Skincare Superbalm, and will soon be included in Aveda Green Science products. What does independent clinical research say about argan oil? Read on to find out. 
An antioxidant that is good for the environment
There are few natural ingredients that have been tested to show the power of cosmeceutical ingredients - but argan oil is one of them. According to Elle, argan oil has three times the amount of antioxidant vitamin E found in olive oil. Further, Pat Peterson, the executive director of research and development for Aveda, tells the magazine, “The antioxidants and fatty acids work synergistically to stop inflammation.” According to Aveda’s in-house clinical tests, subjects showed a 38 percent improvement in lines after eight weeks of using their upcoming argan-rich firming face cream.
How exactly does argan oil benefit the environment? Through the Targanine Cooperative, 2000 Moroccan women work to preserve the Argan Forest by planting new trees and harvesting argan nuts. Because argan oil is exclusive to this land, it is “a source of dependable income and a means of improving their financial independence, access to healthcare, and education,” according to a Kiehl’s press release. Model Josie Maran adds in Elle, “Purchasing the oil from the women’s cooperatives supports their social and economic welfare.” All work in Morocco for Kiehl’s products is also fair-trade, fostering a healthy, safe, environmentally friendly work environment in which workers are fairly compensated for their labor.
What do linoleic and oleic fatty acids do for the skin?
An omega-6 unsaturated (i.e., contains double bonds) essential fatty acid, linoleic acid has been shown in several research studies (cited here) to be capable of reducing inflammation and acne and increasing skin’s moisturization levels. On the other hand, oleic acid is a omega-9 monounsaturated (i.e., contains only one double bond) nonessential fatty acid that makes up 55-60% of olive oil and 56% of açai berry. According to a Kiehl’s press release, linoleic and oleic fatty acids both help protect and maintain skin elasticity, smoothness, and radiance.
Ingredients-wise, both are fantastic, particularly for all-natural products. Both contain vitamin E, olive oil, and avocado oil, which are all excellent natural antioxidants and skin emollients.
Both drink into the skin quickly, and leave a strong herbal scent. I think the oil is fabulous for retaining skin’s moisture levels immediately post-shower, so long as you like the scent. The oil also makes your skin fabulously smooth and shiny-looking, so if you want to show off smooth, shimmery legs in a mini this summer, applying Kiehl’s Superbly Restorative Body Lotion with Organic Fairly Traded Argan Oil is a fabulous way to do it!
Overall opinions of argan oil
If you demand your skin care is good for the environment, but want results too, then you don’t get much better than products that contain argan oil. The ingredient hydrates with essential fatty acids and protects with far more antioxidant vitamin E than olive oil. I love it personally, and am a new fan of Kiehl’s Superbly Restorative Body Lotion with Organic Fairly Traded Argan Oil. If you love natural and want results, go for it!
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April 13th, 2008
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futurederm |
Antioxidant Treatments, Best Products, Best Products, Dry Skin Treatments, Natural Products, Product Reviews, Spotlight On... |
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Weleda Skin Food ($10.00, Amazon.com) has been receiving a lot of attention lately as an all-natural, highly effective moisturizer. Chocked full of natural plant and seed oils, Weleda Skin Food sounds like it should make all-natural devotees happy…but does it?
Sunflower Seed Oil
Sunflower seed oil appears to replace dry skin’s fatty acid deficiency. According to a very small study (3 individuals!) published in the Journal of Investigative Dermatology, application of sunflower-seed oil to the individuals’ right forearms for 2 weeks markedly increased the amount of lecithin in the patients’ skin, the rate of transepidermal water loss was significantly lowered, and the scaly lesions disappeared. Interestingly (and surprisingly!), these results were not found with olive oil. However, the authors speculate that the reason is that sunflower seed oil is a natural source of linoleic acid, whereas olive oil is a source of oleic acid.
Another exciting finding with sunflower seed oil: topical application has been found to prevent bacterial infections in infants in one small, controlled Egyptian study.
Sweet Almond Oil
Sweet almond oil naturally has excellent hydrating properties. In fact, sweet almond is the massage oil most commonly used by the professional masseuse, for it absorbs into the skin at a pleasant speed and hydrates without becoming too greasy.
One warning: Because of the almonds used in the manufacturing process, sweet almond oil is not to be used on or by individuals with nut allergies.
Beeswax and Hydrolyzed Beeswax
In a partially-blind, single-controlled study in Complementary Therapies in Medicine, a mixture of beeswax, honey, and olive oil was found to improve symptoms of 8/10 patients with dermatitis and 5/10 patients with psoriasis. (Unfortunately, Weleda Skin Food only contains beeswax and hydrolyzed beeswax, not honey or olive oil.)
Beeswax in its most commonly used form, PEG-20 Sorbitan Beeswax, has been declared safe for use upon review in the International Journal of Toxicology. It is generally included in cosmetics and skin care as a hydrating ingredient.
Rosemary Extract
Rosemary extract is generally used as a natural antioxidant, as it is a natural source of three antioxidant compounds: carnosic acid, carnosol, and rosmarinic acid. In a 1996 study, it was found that the antioxidant capacities of these compounds varies greatly depending on the lipid constituency and pH of the formulation.
In general, according to the “polar paradox” of Porter et. al. (cited here), polar antioxidants function better in nonpolar (oily) formulations, whereas nonpolar antioxidants function better in polar emulsions. For this reason, as suspected, the polar carnosic acid and rosmarinic acid have been found to be more effective in oil-based creams like Weleda Skin Food, whereas the nonpolar carnosol has been found to be more effective in water-based creams.
The other consideration with the efficacy of rosemary extract as an antioxidant is its pH. At the slightly acidic pH of 4-5, rosemary extract’s three antioxidant components function optimally. However, at a neutral pH of 7, rosemary extract loses all pH activity. I don’t have Weleda Skin Food here to do a litmus test, but an educated guess suggests that the pH is somewhere around 7 - but if you have information to refute this, please comment!
Calendula extract
Also known as marigold extract, this extract “has many pharmacological properties. It is used for the treatment of skin disorders, pain and also as a bactericide, antiseptic and anti-inflammatory.“ It also functions as an effective natural antioxidant. However, the concentration of calendula extract in Weleda Skin Food is rather low, and its properties may not be very evident after use.
Use
From reading others’ opinions of the cream and studying the ingredients, Weleda Skin Food is thick and creamy. It does not drink in immediately, but still remains non-greasy.
Overall opinions
At the moment, I am always a little more skeptical of “all-natural” skin treatments, for the simple reason that there are less published scientific research studies incorporating “all-natural” ingredients and their efficacy. At any rate, however, there is no denying that the studies out there demonstrate that the ingredients in Weleda Skin Food make it a hydrating, soothing, cost-effective, unique all-natural antioxidant cream. It may not have the antioxidant power of, say, Topix Replenix (with green tea polyphenols) or Revale Skin (with coffeeberry), but for the cost and for being all-natural, it’s a great choice. Product rating: 8.5/10 (High concentration of proven ingredients: 2.5/3 (minus half point for limited research). New technology or unique formulation: 3/3. Value for the money: 3/3. Sunscreen: 0/1).
Ingredients in Weleda Skin Food
Water (Aqua), Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Lanolin, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil, Alcohol, Beeswax (Cera Flava), Glyceryl Linoleate, Hydrolyzed Beeswax, Fragrance (Parfum), Viola Tricolor Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Cholesterol, Limonene, Linalool, Geraniol, Citral, Coumarin.
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April 7th, 2008
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futurederm |
Antioxidant Treatments, Dry Skin Treatments, Hand Treatments, Natural Products, Product Reviews |
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Since antioxidant serums have been scientifically proven to boost the power of sunscreen, it’s a good idea to apply one everyday before your sunscreen. But, if you’re the eco-conscious and all-natural modern woman, what are you to do? Enter Juice Beauty Antioxidant Serum ($45.00, Sephora.com). With a high concentration of grape juice, soothing aloe, network antioxidants ubiquinone, vitamin C, and vitamin E, firming DMAE, cell turnover-inspiring retinyl palmitate, and hydrating sodium hyaluronate — plus the assurance of certified organic ingredients — what’s not to love?! For more on the ingredients, read on.
White Grape and Orange Juices
Not only do they taste delicious, but the two main ingredients in this serum are great for your skin, too. Orange juice is great, while white grape juice is a fair antioxidant, at least according to the American Chemical Society. In a 1996 study, the antioxidant activities of twelve common fruits were measured via ORAC (Oxygen Radical Absorbance Capacity) Score, the current accepted standard for measuring antioxidant activity. In the ranking, orange juice placed third, while white grape juice placed seventh; the following was the order:
- strawberry
- plum
- orange
- red grape
- kiwi fruit
- pink grapefruit
- white grape
- banana
- apple
- tomato
- pear
- honeydew melon
Still, I personally am impressed by the high concentration of the two antioxidant juices in Juice Beauty Antioxidant Serum. Nice!
Vitamin C as Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate
According to the International Journal of Pharmaceutics, vitamin C in its common form, L-ascorbic acid, has been demonstrated to have many favorable aspects for the skin, including:
Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate is a simply a water-soluble form of L-ascorbic acid. According to a 1997 study in the Journal of Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Analysis, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate has greater stability than L-ascorbic acid in solution. Unfortunately, the only drawback to magnesium ascorbyl phosphate that I can foresee is that the concentration of magnesium ascorbyl phosphate is often not revealed in products, while the concentration of L-ascorbic acid is reported as 10% in Cellex C and 15% in Skinceuticals CE Ferulic. However, it has been suggested in Skin Pharmacology that a given concentration of magnesium ascorbyl phosphate exhibits the same effects on skin fibroblasts as the same concentration of L-ascorbic acid. This is exciting, as the same study also found that twice the concentration of sodium ascorbyl phosphate was needed to exhibit the same effects as a given concentration of L-ascorbic acid.
At any rate, if I were to take an educated guess, I would not estimate the concentration of vitamin C in Juice Beauty Antioxidant Serum to be greater than 5%. This is, however, only a guess.
My favorite combination: Vitamin C and Vitamin E
Oh, if you’re a fan of this blog, you’ve heard it all before: Vitamin C and E together are like macaroni and cheese for me, but a whole lot better for my skin. First and foremost, according to Dr. Leslie Baumann’s Cosmetic Dermatology textbook, vitamin C and vitamin E are network antioxidants that have been found to synergistically enhance the power of one another. (When one antioxidant is depleted, it can essentially “borrow” an electron from the other antioxidant to renew itself, and vice versa).
Vitamins C and E as L-ascorbic acid and tocopheryl acetate have also been reported by Djerassi et. al. to prevent the formation of carcinogenic nitrosamines (cancerous nitrosamines).
Vitamin C and vitamin E have also been shown in this 1996 study, amongst others, to enhance the photoprotective effects of sunscreen, as vitamin C has been reported to enhance UVA protection, whereas vitamin E is more effective against UVB radiation.
Lastly, vitamin C has also been found to decrease hyperpigmentation, although a study in the International Journal of Dermatology found that 4% hydroquinone was more effective in treating melasma than vitamin C as L-ascorbic acid. However, a separate study, also in the International Journal of Dermatology, found that combination therapy of 4% hydroquinone (not in Juice Beauty Antioxidant Serum), vitamin C, vitamin E, and 10% glycolic acid was effective in treating signs of hyperpigmentation.
…plus another network antioxidant, Ubiquinone
Ubiquinone levels have been documented to decrease upon skin UV irradiation in the journal Free Radical Biology and Medicine, so it is a beneficial to supplement the levels with this antioxidant serum. Ubiquinone, like vitamins C and E, is also another network antioxidant, meaning that it can “borrow” an electron from another antioxidant when its own electron is depleted by a reactive species, and can also “donate” an electron to another antioxidant in its time of stress. Very nice indeed!
Retinyl palmitate
According to a 1997 study in the Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 0.6% retinyl palmitate is less effective in penetrating human skin than 0.025% retinol (these concentrations are similar to those found in many over-the-counter skincare formulations). However, even though retinyl palmitate is less potent than retinol, it has been shown to exhibit the collagen-stimulating, smoothing, and wrinkle-reducing properties of retinol over time, and has also been shown to be less irritating, which is probably the reason for its common use in skin care products.
I think I have only two concerns about the retinyl palmitate in Juice Beauty Antioxidant Serum. One is pH level. With all of the acidic ingredients in the serum, its pH is likely to be somewhere between 4-5. However, the optimal pH of retinyl palmitate in formulations is between 5.5 and 6.0, as this is the ultimate range for esterification, according to the Journal of Investigative Dermatology. My second concern is more minor: given the fact that retinyl palmitate makes the skin more photosensitive, dermatologists most often recommend its use at night. But, I would say that, since you are most likely using an antioxidant serum to boost the power of sunscreen anyway, the bit of retinyl palmitate in this product plus sunscreen should still leave you on your way to anti-aging success.
What about the “certified organic” label?
Again, “certified organic” has never been shown in clinical studies to be more effective. Still, the “certified organic” label means that the product is of the highest standard; that is, 95-100% of ingredients must meet USDA organic standards for food. More information about USDA Certified Organic labeling and products is available here.
Buy this! Don’t buy the Juice Beauty Green Apple Antioxidant Serum!
According to Sephora.com, the ingredients lists of Juice Beauty Antioxidant Serum and Juice Beauty Green Apple Antioxidant Serum are (gasp!) identical. I copied and pasted them both below to demonstrate. Even if this is some sort of error, you get twice the amount of Juice Beauty Antioxidant Serum for the same price as Juice Beauty Green Apple Antioxidant Serum. Furthermore, in the aforementioned study, apple did not have a particularly high ORAC score compared to eleven other common fruits, indicating that Juice Beauty Green Apple Antioxidant Serum is probably not worth twice as much. The choice, of course, is ultimately yours.
Bottom line: I loooooove it
Juice Beauty Antioxidant Serum ($45.00, Sephora.com) is a new favorite. I love the high concentrations of antioxidants, hydrating and soothing ingredients, and the fact that it’s Certified Organic for the eco-savvy woman (or man, come to think of it!) A great find and a wonderful product! Product rating: 9.5/10 (High concentration of proven ingredients: 3/3. New technology or formulation: 3/3. Value for the money: 3/3. Sunscreen: 0.5/1, not sunscreen, but its ingredients are proven to boost the power of sunscreen when used in conjunction with it.)
Ingredients in Juice Beauty Antioxidant Serum
Organic Juices Of Vitis Vinifera (White Grape) Juice, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Juice & Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Glycerin, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil, Organic Essential Fatty Acids Of Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose), Linum Usitatissimum (Linseed) Seed & Borago Officinali (Borage) Seed, Organic Algae Extract, Ubiquinone (Coenzyme Q10), Thioctic Acid (Alpha-Lipoic Acid), Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (Vitamin C), Dipeptide-2, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-3, Tocopheryl Acetate & Tocopherol (Vitamin E), Retinyl Palmitate (Vitamin A), Sclerotium Gum, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Hydroxide, Benzyl Alcohol, Disodium Edta, Phospholipids, Hyaluronic Acid, Dimethylaminoethanol(DMAE), Potassium Sorbate, Amyris Balsamifera & Litsea Cubeba (May Chang) Pure Essential Oils.
Ingredients in Juice Beauty Green Apple Antioxidant Serum
Organic Juice Solution Of Vitis Vinifera (White Grape) Juice, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Juice & Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Glycerin, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil, Organic Essential Fatty Acids Of Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose), Linum Usitatissimum (Linseed) Seed & Borago Officinali (Borage) Seed, Organic Algae Extract, Ubiquinone (Coenzyme Q10), Thioctic Acid (Alpha-Lipoic Acid), Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (Vitamin C), Dipeptide-2, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-3, Tocopheryl Acetate & Tocopherol (Vitamin E), Retinyl Palmitate (Vitamin A), Sclerotium Gum, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Hydroxide, Benzyl Alcohol, Disodium Edta, Phospholipids, Hyaluronic Acid, Dimethylaminoethanol(DMAE, Potassium Sorbate, Amyris Balsamifera & Litsea Cubeba (May Chang) Pure Essential Oils.
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April 3rd, 2008
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futurederm |
Anti-Aging Treatments, Antioxidant Treatments, Best Products, Best Products, Best Skincare Gifts, Natural Products, Product Reviews |
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…Look no further than International Orange Organic Body Products. Based out of a San Francisco spa by the same name, the company is completely devoted to the production of quality, completely pure products. According to the company’s informational pamphlet, “Each product is made with certified organic, wild-crafted or biodynamically grown ingredients of the highest integrity and are sourced from the finest available growers. All vegetable oils and butters are fair trade.” Although I do not exclusively use all-natural beauty products, these are certainly effective products for anyone who wants only the finest and purest ingredients.
What is the advantage to organic fair-trade products?
Advocates of organic, fair-trade products often cite the following reasons:
- Organic farming has been demonstrated to be more environmentally friendly than mass-production chemical farming practices. According to the company’s brochure, organic farming relies instead on “crop rotation, crop residues, animal manures, and mechanical cultivation” rather than “synthetic fertilizers, pesticides, genetic modifications via plant regulators, and without ionizing radiation or additives.”
- Fair trade offers higher compensation to workers from countries with lower economic status. Though it is not without criticism, proponents like the advantages it grants to impoverished workers over time.
At any rate, if you are a fan of organic, fair-trade beauty products, International Orange Organic Body Products are among the best. There is, however, no proven scientific or anti-allergic basis for the use of all-natural products.
My favorite: International Orange Body Oil
International Orange Body Oil ($45.00, Internationalorange.com) contains an infusion of antioxidants from organic sources; namely, green tea and grapeseed. Green tea is an excellent ingredient for the skin that exhibits many beneficial effects for the skin, including antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-carcinogenic, photoprotective, matrix metalloproteinase-inhibiting and redness-relieving properties. Although I have read reports that the non-organic Topix Replenix is the only cream with enough polyphenols from green tea to demonstrate the full effects of green tea, if you are looking for an organic source of green tea, International Orange Body Oil is as good as any other organic source I have read about.
Products are richly scented, light, and softening
All of the International Orange products I have tried are richly scented. According to the company brochure, the scents are a blend of “exotic ceremonial flowers, uplifting citruses, and healing herbs.” In my opinion, they cannot be worn with other perfume, so they might be best used alone. All of the products, whether for hair or skin, are richly scented, light, drink in quickly, and leave hair feeling smooth and soft, while the skin feels cool and soft. A full list of products is available here.
Overall opinions…
If you like organic beauty products and enjoy rich natural scents, then you should love International Orange products. All ingredients are organic, vegetable sources are free-trade, and all farming practices are biodynamic (organically farmed, using an ecological and sustainable system).
For more information about International Orange, including the spa and 10-day wellness practice, please visit the International Orange site here.
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April 2nd, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Antioxidant Treatments, Best Products, Best Products, Natural Products, Product Reviews |
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Eczema is a condition that is characterized by rash-like symptoms, which may include redness, skin edema, itching and dryness, crusting, flaking, blistering, cracking, oozing, or bleeding. According to a press release for the product, the American Academy of Dermatology has found that 10-20% of the world’s population suffers from eczema to some degree. Atopic eczema is the most common type to occur, which is believed to have a hereditary component. However, some diagnosed cases of atopic eczema are caused by a specific irritating agent, and are in actuality a different form of eczema, called contact dermatitis.
Aveeno® Eczema Care Body Wash and Eczema Care Moisturizing Cream have been proposed as novel treatments for eczema. In one January 2007 study administered by Johnson & Johnson, 82-89% of all patients tested had improved symptoms of eczema after two weeks’ of daily use of each product — numbers that are highly impressive, even for an in-house study. Both the Aveeno® Eczema Care Body Wash and Eczema Care Moisturizing Cream have also received prestigious awards, including the National Eczema Association Seal of Acceptance and the Allure 2007 “Best Beauty Breakthrough” award! What makes these products so effective? Read on…
Natural Colloidal Oatmeal and Pure Oat Essence
Both Aveeno® Eczema Care Body Wash and Eczema Care Moisturizing Cream contain natural colloidal oatmeal and pure oat essence. In a supplement to the journal Cosmetic Dermatology, it is stated that these ingredients are among the few natural ingredients that are regulated by the U.S. FDA.
According to the supplement, oats have been used since ancient Egypt to manage dry, itchy skin. Colloidal oatmeal, a preparation of ground hulled oat kernels dispersible in water, is helpful to dry skin in four major ways:
- 1. Contains a helpful mixture of components that soothe and/or hydrate skin, including 10-18% protein, 60-64% polysaccharides, and lipids, enzymes, saponins, prostaglandin synthetic inhibitors, vitamins, and flavonoids. In short, oat proteins have high hydration and fat-binding capacities, and have been shown to improve skin’s barrier function.
- 2. Has a lower pH than human skin, which enables absorption of oils and dirt on the skin.
- 3. Positively charged sites of oat proteins help oatmeal bind to negatively-charged parts of the skin, anchoring the moisturizing ingredients into the skin. This helps the ingredient form a thin layer over the skin. (Pretty neat, huh? )
- 4. Contains vitamin E, an antioxidant.
- 5. In one study, cited here, oat kernel extracts inhibited prostaglandin synthesis to a degree comparable with that of indomethacin, indicating that oatmeal may reduce pain and itching.
Very exciting indeed!
Petrolatum, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Ceramides and Panthenol
All of the above ingredients in Aveeno® Eczema Care Body Wash and Eczema Care Moisturizing Cream serve as additional hydrators, preventing further irritation and drying of skin. Petrolatum and dimethicone are both occlusive agents, which seal in moisture and help prevent further moisture loss.
No potentially irritating ingredients
There are no fragrances, dyes, colorants, or steroids in Aveeno® Eczema Care Body Wash and Eczema Care Moisturizing Cream. In the press release for the product, the National Eczema Association (NEA) and their Scientific Advisory Board found “Aveeno® Eczema Care products are gentle, mild, and effective for those who suffer from eczema.”
An interesting, unintended single case study
…That would be me. For some unknown reason (maybe the stress of finals approaching?), I had my first case of eczema last week. It appeared on my neck, and I wasn’t sure what it was, but after reading up on it, I realized it was contact dermatitis. I found the Aveeno Eczema Care Moisturizing Cream particularly helpful in soothing, hydrating, and alleviating my symptoms, though it definitely takes time (I have been using it for a week now, and still have a little redness, but far less itching.)
As a result…
I highly recommend Aveeno® Eczema Care Body Wash and Eczema Care Moisturizing Cream to anyone with eczema or very dry skin. In the aforementioned Johnson & Johnson survey, 88% of consumers said that continued use of Eczema Care Moisturizing Cream improved their skin’s health with continued use, and I believe it. There are many great, proven ingredients in these formulations, and I love the fact that they’re non-irritating, hydrating, and take the itch away! Product rating: 9/10 (High concentration of proven ingredients: 3/3. New technology: 3/3. Value for the money: 3/3. Sunscreen: 0/1).
For further tips on how to manage your eczema, please click here.
Water, Glycerin, Panthenol, Distearyldimonium Chloride, Petrolatum, Isopropyl Palmitate, Cetyl Alcohol, Dimethicone, Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour, Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Oil, Ceramide 3, Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Extract, Methylparaben, Steareth 20, Benzalkonium Chloride, Sodium Chloride.
Water, Sodium Trideceth Sulfate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Sodium Lauroamphoacetate, Sodium Chloride, Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Flour, Laureth-2, Cyamopsis Tetragonoloba (Guar) Gum, Ceramide 3, Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract, Sodium Benzoate, Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Panthenol.
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March 31st, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Best Products, Best Products, Dry Skin Treatments, General Cosmetic Dermatology, Natural Products, Product Reviews, eczema treatments |
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According to Dr. Doris Day in the April 2008 issue of Health magazine:
- Natural refers to ingredients derived from plants, minerals, or algae.
- Organic describes substances grown without synthetic pesticides or fertilizers, and processed without man-made chemicals.
- Made with Organic Ingredients means that 70% or greater of the ingredients are organic content.
- USDA Certified Organic is the highest standard. USDA Certified Organic means that 95-100% of ingredients must meet USDA organic standards for food. More information about USDA Certified Organic is available here.
According to Dr. Day, “The National Standards Foundation (NSF) is working with outside groups, including organic-cosmetics manufacturers (like Burt’s Bees) to create an organic standard specifically for personal-care products, which should take effect in the next year or two.” Until then, keep the above standards in mind if you are an organic skin care product fan.
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March 23rd, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Natural Products, Quick Questions |
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After reading about tarte founder and CEO Maureen Kelly in the March 2008 issue of Oprah magazine, I am officially a tarte cosmetics fan. The woman is truly an inspiration, working towards a psychology Ph.D. while starting her cosmetics company, losing her first husband in 9/11, and prevailing to be the head of a very successful company today.
With that said, I am loving tarte Double Dose Berry Boost and Gloss ($21.00, tarte.com). Here’s why:
A plethora of antioxidants
tarte Double Dose Berry Boost and Gloss contains a number of potent antioxidants, including the t5 super fruit complex™, with goji berry, açai berry, maracuja, acerola, and pomegranate. When added to antioxidant vitamin C, tarte Double Dose Berry Boost and Gloss really packs a powerful antioxidant punch.
Hydrating, tinted, and minty
Despite the fruity ingredients, tarte Double Dose Berry Boost and Gloss contains peppermint oil and has a peppermint fragrance, which many women find pleasant (hence why C.O. Bigelow Mint-Scented Lip Gloss is such a hit at Bath and Body Works). tarte Double Dose Berry Boost and Gloss is also lightly tinted from mineral-based pigments, and very hydrating due to its shea butter content.
Benefits Sambazon’s Sustainable Acai Project (SAP)
According to the tarte Cosmetics website:
“With the purchase of every tarte double dose berry boost & gloss, you’ll be helping to preserve the Amazon Rainforest through forest conservation, improved living conditions and educational opportunities for communities in Brazil. We’re supporting Sambazon’s Sustainable Acai Project (SAP), a member of the Organic Trade Association and the Fair Trade Federation.”
For more on the Sambazon Sustainable Acai Project, please click here.
Overall: I love it!
With antioxidants, hydrating shea butter, mineral-based pigments, an inspiring founder, and benefits to charity, I am truly loving tarte Double Dose Berry Boost and Gloss! Now, if only it contained sunscreen and was a little cheaper…!
Product Rating: 8/10 (High concentration of proven ingredients: 3/3. New technology: 3/3. Value for the money: 2/3. Sunscreen: 0/1).
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March 23rd, 2008
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futurederm |
Anti-Aging Treatments, Antioxidant Treatments, Best Products, Best Products, Natural Products, Product Reviews, Skin-Benefitting Cosmetics |
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Skin MD Natural Ultimate Dry Skin Solution ($25.00, SkinMDNatural.com) is a shielding lotion, meaning that it claims to “keep irritants out and moisture in.” The secret is a moisturizing factor, consisting of several different dimethicones, that the company claims is at least 6 times as moisturizing as glycerin. But how effective is Skin MD Natural Ultimate Dry Skin Solution by ingredients and after two weeks of use? Read on…
A high concentration of aloe vera
Aloe vera has been a popular folk remedy since the 1930’s, during which time the ingredient was used primarily as a soothing and anti-inflammatory ingredient. Indeed, aloe vera’s efficacy as an anti-inflammatory ingredient was verified in this study in the Journal of Ethnopharmacology. However, according to a 1999 review of ten aloe vera-related studies, aloe vera’s efficacy otherwise was concluded to be “unclear.” The review says that aloe vera “might be effective for genital herpes and psoriasis,” and “whether it promotes wound healing is unclear.” (Refuting the latter claim is a separate study, which found rather convincingly that aloe vera does promote wound healing.) Further, the review goes on to announce “topical application of aloe vera is not an effective preventative for radiation-induced injuries.” As such, aloe vera is proven effective as a soothing, wound-healing, and anti-inflammatory agent, but its efficacy in treating psoriasis seems to be unclear at this time.
A mixture of silicones
Skin MD Natural Ultimate Dry Skin Solution contains a fairly high concentration of two silicone compounds, cyclopentasiloxane and dimethicone. According to the company, cyclopentasiloxane is “colorless, odorless, transparent, [and] nongreasy,” and “has a low viscosity and surface tension and a relatively high vapor pressure, which allows the majority of the silicone portion to evaporate from the surface to which it is applied.” It provides some moisturization. On the other hand, dimethicone is a well-established moisturizing ingredient. According to the company, dimethicone “forms a protective layer which helps prevent transdermal water loss.” Together, the mix of silicones is meant to attract and retain moisture to the skin.
A number of flower extracts
The product contains a number of flower extracts. Although the purposes of each is backed by at least one research study, the flower extracts do not have the substantiative research backing of, say, retinol, niacinamide, or vitamin C. At any rate, each has research substantiating their claims.
Arnica Montana Flower Extract “is an antibiotic, anti-inflammatory, and pain reliever…minimizes the effect of tissue trauma and aids in the healing process.” Symphytum Officinale Leaf Extract (Comfrey) “abounds in the healing agents mucilage and allantoin.” Achillea Millefolium Extract (Yarrow) “is styptic (stops bleeding), astringent (makes tissue contract), antiseptic (inhibits bacterial growth), vulnerary (helps tissue heal), anti-inflammatory, and possibly anesthetic.” And, lastly, Chamomilla Recutita Extract (Chamomile) is “anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, carminative, antispasmodic and promotes wound healing.”
After trying the product…
The product has a light, pleasant floral smell and drinks into the skin quickly. Its consistency reminded me of the moisturizer Theraplex. After trying the product for two weeks, my skin feels soft and well-moisturized, though not more than after using Theraplex or Olay Quench Body Lotion for Normal to Dry Skin ($18.64 for two, Amazon.com). For an “all-natural” moisturizer, however, Skin MD Natural Ultimate Dry Skin Solution is the best I have reviewed thus far.
Overall opinions…
If I was looking for an “all-natural” moisturizer, Skin MD Natural Ultimate Dry Skin Solution has a light texture and is very hydrating. Unfortunately, in my opinion, if “all-natural” is not a requirement, then I consider the lotion (4 oz.) to be rather expensive ($25) for only soothing and moisturizing ingredients. For instance, my favorite body moisturizer, Olay Quench Body Lotion for Normal to Dry Skin ($18.64 for two, Amazon.com) contains hydrating ingredients and niacinamide, which reduces fine lines and wrinkles, hyperpigmented spots, red blotchiness, and skin sallowness (yellowing), and increases elasticity. And Aveeno Moisture Lotion with Active Soy ($8.31, Amazon.com) contains dimethicone and soy extract, which has been found to reduce the appearance of hyperpigmented spots, to stimulate skin’s collagen and hyaluronic acid production, and to even decrease the number of hair follicles on the skin. And if a novel dry skin moisturizer is what you’re looking for, I prefer Theraplex ($16, Theraplex.com).
In other words, as much as I like Skin MD Natural Ultimate Dry Skin Solution as a hydrating all-natural moisturizer, I think that there are more effective, cheaper alternatives if “all-natural” is not a requirement.
Product rating: 7/10 (New technology: 3/3. High concentration of effective ingredients: 3/3. Value for the money: 1/3. Sunscreen: 0/3.)
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March 19th, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Dry Skin Treatments, Natural Products, Product Reviews |
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With men’s skin care products at an all-times sales high and the “all-natural” craze hitting the U.S. at the same time, it’s of little surprise that there is already an all-natural men’s skin care line out there, Maine Shave. A 4-step system consisting of a Facial Cleanser, Shaving Cream, Facial Toner, and Facial Moisturizer, Maine Shave features a plethora of soothing ingredients and antioxidants to get a man’s skin looking optimal. For more information about each product, read on.
Maine Shave Natural Daily Face Cleanser
Maine Shave Natural Daily Cleanser ($19.00, MaineShave.com) contains a fairly high concentration of antioxidant olive oil and citrus extract, hydrating wheat protein and glycerin, and soothing witch hazel, aloe vera, cucumber, linden, and rose extracts. One particular benefit to Maine Shave Natural Daily Cleanser over ordinary drugstore soaps and cleansers for men is the addition of witch hazel, which has been reported in this 1998 review in Archives in Dermatology to reduce itching and skin inflammation, which commonly occur from shaving.
The product has a more masculine-type scent, so women probably would not want to purchase this product for their own use.
Maine Shave All-Natural Intensive Moisturizing Shaving Cream
Maine Shave All-Natural Intensive Moisturizing Shaving Cream ($20.00, MaineShave.com) consists of a vegetable soap base combined with hydrating shea butter, soothing jojoba seed oil, and a diverse mix of plant extracts. According to LoveToKnow.com, a good shaving cream for men does NOT contain alcohol, menthol, mint, camphor, or high levels of potassium or sodium hydroxide, and Maine Shave All-Natural Intensive Moisturizing Shaving Cream contains none of the above. Additional good news is that the product is highly moisturizing, which is great for men with dry or very skin. The unfortunate news is that, because the product is “all-natural,” it does not contain chemically-derived, proven anti-aging ingredients that are found in other shaving creams, like the retinol and antioxidant vitamin E in Kiss My Face Moisture Shave ($5.39, Drugstore.com).
The product has a more masculine-type scent, so women probably would not want to purchase this product for their own use.
Maine Shave Natural Facial Toner
Of all the products, the Maine Shave Natural Facial Toner ($18.00, MaineShave.com) is my favorite, based on ingredients. The product contains a very high concentration of witch hazel, which should soothe post-shave itching and irritation. The product also contains a high concentration of birch sap, which has been found in this exciting 2006 study from Japan to accelerate epidermal differentiation (skin cell turnover) and skin moisture effect on cosmetic usage. In the study, application of birch sap not only accelerated the production of filaggrin (a precursor protein of natural moisturizing factors in the skin) and involucrin (a precursor protein of related to barrier function) within the skin, but also increased these mRNA expression levels. Maine Shave Natural Facial Toner finishes off the ingredients list with soothing aloe, cucumber and rose extracts, and a small concentration of antioxidant grapefruit oil. I love it!
Maine Shave Natural Gentle Daily Facial Moisturizer
Maine Shave Natural Gentle Daily Facial Moisturizer ($25.00, MaineShave.com) contains hydrators (sweet almond oil, glycerin, squalane, shea butter, hydrolyzed oats, dimethicone), as well as soothing ingredients (aloe, allantoin, chamomile) and antioxidants (grapefruit seed extract, vitamin E). Unfortunately, the product is better used at night than during the day, because it does not contain sunscreen. Dermatologists advise men and women to use a broad-spectrum UVA/UVB sunscreen of at least SPF 15 every day. The sun is responsible for up to 80 percent of skin aging, according to the Journal of Investigative Dermatology, and even through the clouds, up to 80 percent of the sun’s rays can shine through. It is thereby imperative that men and women choose a moisturizer with sunscreen or apply a sunscreen over their moisturizer.
Maine Shave Update: March 05, 2008
After two weeks of using the line, my father says that it has left his face feeling “soft and smooth.” He raves about the Maine Shave line, and thinks that it is “great for his skin.” His skin looks more even and vibrant!
With that said, a great moisturizer with sunscreen for men is Neutrogena Triple Protect SPF 20 ($5.99, Amazon.com). The product contains soybean extract to stimulate the production of collagen and hyaluronic acid in human fibroblasts cultured in vitro, which together increase the firmness, elasticity, and suppleness of skin. It has been reported in this 2000 study in the journal Dermatology that human trials demonstrate lightening of hyperpigmentation after use of soybean extract for two weeks. For men who are concerned about reports that soybean extract has hormonal effects in men, Johnson and Johnson (owners of Neutrogena) manufactures a non-hormonal form of soybean extract known as “active soy,” in which the estrogenic compounds have been extracted. Neutrogena Triple Protect SPF 20 also contains soothing allantoin and bisabolol, hydrating dimethicone, and antioxidants vitamin E and green tea.
Does “all-natural” matter in men’s skin care products?
No peer-reviewed scientific studies (at least that I am aware of) have established that natural ingredients are more beneficial to the skin. Marketing reasons for “all-natural” range from the quirky (“delivering live plant energy”) to the cautious (will not clog pores). However, all skin care products that are marketed as “non-comedogenic” should be dermatologist-tested to not clog the pores.
Some consumers claim that natural products “just feel better” on their skin. If that’s the case for you, that’s great. However, at this time, there just doesn’t seem to be a scientific study verifying that natural products are any more efficacious than the other variety.
If you are aware of a peer-reviewed scientific study that establishes natural skin care products are better, please let me know!
What are some other great skin care products for men?
All men can benefit from visiting a dermatologist, who can recommend skin care products specifically for their skin. In general, men can benefit from virtually the same twice-daily routine with antioxidants and sunscreen in the morning to prevent free radical- and UV-induced damage. A great one-two punch is Skinceuticals CE Ferulic ($103.70, Amazon.com) followed by Neutrogena Triple Protect SPF 20 ($5.99, Amazon.com). For night, men can benefit from antioxidants, peptides, retinol or AHAs (if their skin is not too sensitive), just like women. Two great treatments are Skinceuticals Retinol 0.5 ($35.70, Amazon.com) with 0.5% retinol and RevaléSkin Night Cream ($110.00, SkinCareRx.com) with the most potent antioxidant based on ORAC score, CoffeeBerry. Other concerns, such as hyperpigmentation or acne, are also treated with regimes similar to that of female patients. If you have concerns, please ask your dermatologist.
In Summary…
Maine Shave products consist of a quality all-natural facial cleanser and shaving cream, a phenomenal toner, and a hydrating moisturizer without sunscreen for men. If you can only pick up one item from this line, don’t miss the Maine Shave Natural Facial Toner, with witch hazel and birch sap. Another great, albeit not all-natural, skin care product for men Neutrogena Triple Protect SPF 20.
Men’s skin care is consistently evolving, as is the all-natural skin care market, so I will make additional posts about both in the future!
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March 2nd, 2008
Posted by
futurederm |
Antioxidant Treatments, Best Products, Best Products, Dry Skin Treatments, General Cosmetic Dermatology, Natural Products, Product Reviews |
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